BluDestiny

Those sizes should fit no problem, but personally I'd try and go a bit wider. I'd go with 215/45 up front and a 245/40 rear. Should keep the stock sizes so speedo should be accurate.

Yes you're correct, I just checked under my daily haha. Anyway Todd at WCR got back to me and did say the STI stub conversion axles do work with their CV conversion kit (because 4 bolt pattern), and that the STI stub conversion axles are pretty beefy. So I'm now probably going with an STI rear dif, Wolf creek stubs and the Wolf creek CV kit.

I know the r180's out of the pickups come with bolt in stubs, with like a 6 bolt flange (3 pairs of 2) and a tripod CV, but it would need to be shortened and the other side made to work with the stock wheel flange. I sent WCR an email asking if they make the CV axles to work with the STI stubs, or the stock stubs, or they can do both. I would think since the STI stubs have the stock flange, they will be fine (which is what you said).

John, and to anyone that has used the wolf creek CV conversion axles, do I need to specify which stubs are currently in the diff? or are most datsun/nissan r180's the same spline count? Also since I'm looking at having this diff serviced, is there anyone you'd recommend in the LA area? I know you pointed me to someone in Orange I think last time.

My 240z make some horrible decel sounds in gear coming from the diff in there now, making think the pinion bearing is going. So since I'm probably looking at upgrading. I'm debating on either going with an STI diff 3.9 and the beta motorsports (wolf creek) stubs, or using an existing 4.11 r180 diff I found at the junkyard and doing a full rebuild with a quaife lsd. Along with that I'd like to go with a CV axles conversion from wolf creek. Will this work with the STI stub axles? Would the stub axles work with a STI diff that has a cusco unit in it? like this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2732401 I know I can find stock STI diffs sub $450 all day long, but for the stub axles and diff at $900-1000, I'm considering going with a fresh quaife. I want to know if the performance of the quaife is justified. This car will never have more than 300hp. I want to stay with the L that it has now. I also have a RT diff mount going in along with some T3 rear control arms. Axles: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 Diff I'd use with the 4.11: http://whiteheadperformance.com/products/quaife-qdf5l-atb-helical-lsd-limited-slip-differential-nissan-r180-diff-115mm-datsun-240z-280z-280zx-510/

S13 subframe yet?

Yeah Stan is a good guy. I contacted him last week because I'm getting a hood and hatch.

You can fit 17x8 and 17x9 easy. Look up the Rota RBR thread. There are a few ZX guys running them. and as for tire size, I like to keep either the same or close to stock. So like a 255/40/17 in the rear and a 225/45/17 up front. It'll fit depending on the offset. Edit: Just for the record, this isn't a faq post, it should be in the body specific 280zx s130 forum

I'd actually say Arizona would be a good are to start. you can visit Sedona and the Grand Canyon, and find mostly rustless Datsuns out there.

Looking for fender flares (wide or regular) a front airdam, specifically http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1401 and a spoiler, either the MSA victory or the ZG-R style http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/pd2118882/_ZG_R___REAR_HATCH_TAIL__SPOILER_ I'll be in Los Angeles this weekend and would like to collect parts. I am also willing to paypal ahead of time. Looking for local pickup only. Text me at 818-919-4242 with pics, or PM me.

You left the URL link in with the IMG file, so when you post a pic you have a format like: >>>URL<<<>>>IMG<<<>>>url<<< you have a link so the site gets traffic. Just delete the URL portion and only post the : >>><<< Other than that it's looking super awesome. I wish I had that much space because that's exactly what I want to do to my Z.

I don't think it matters either way. Honestly you'd probably want to completely box that space along the sides as well.

I"m not terribly upset at the time frame. I've basically been saving up this entire time and knew they weren't going to touch it for about 5 months from the day it dropped off. At this point I'm thinking of adding more. I guess I'll find out this next week. I am going home to do some work on my 240z though.

My car has been at Touge Factory for about 7 months now. They took a while building up the engine, mostly because a few of the parts (tomei solid lifter kits and stuff) was taking months to get in. Apparently there was a port strike or something. I called in a few days ago and found out the lead on my project quit, he got a job for an Audi dealer, so they're back at square one for planning. Hopefully I can just get it before winter at this point. The lack of not really having a space to work on it was a major contributing factor to it not getting anywhere for suck a long time. Plus I had a 240z in CA that I was putting money into. and then my daily Subaru I just went stage 2, about to go to e85. Ugh too many things going on.

No those won't fit because of the width and offset. You'd need like a 1.5" spacer

That sounds normal. Granted I was using 20w-50 on the stock turbo.

Yes the majority of people on this site are from America, and yes we can be very brash a lot of time. Doing your own research first and presenting your questions in a comprehensible way will get you very far on this site. There are also plenty of people on this forum from other parts of the world as well. Looks good, and welcome to the never ending money pit game.

I brought both diffs to a diff shop, the guy had a bench setup with and adjustable mount for the pinion flange (sort of like an engine stand, but with a hold in the middle) and he used an air gun to get it off and put on the datsun flange. Took 15 min total and wasn't charged for it.

They are not interchangeable, The control arms has welded on mounting ears. The early style has them closer together, so you can't just take a late model caliper and bolt it to the control arm. They are interchangeable if you take the control arm, but you CAN NOT bolt late model calipers to an early style control arm or vice cersa. Edit: Yes the z32 calipers have the same bolt spacing as the maxima rear calipers and s13/s14 240sx rear calipers. Spacing between the rotor and caliper will be a different issue.

The late model 280zx rear calipers are the same style at the rwd maximas and the s13 rear calipers, they can be had for dirt cheap (sold at least 3 sets for $50 a pair). Just look on zilvia for people going with the z32 upgrade.

You mean the rears right? because the fronts don't change. And the rears are pretty much the same as s13 240sx rear brakes. They might have a different mounting offset though. Haven't been under my car in awhile.

If you start making these R&P sets, there may be some people interested in a few sets for high land speed applications or drag racing. A reason for not having lower ratios would be because they were selling this as a quick little car. A lower gear ratio would make it slower to get to speed.

What you described is how you test ethanol percentage in e85. Also your gas tank has baffles, that makes it a lot harder to drain effectively. It's not worth the risk when you can just buy higher octane gas.

Why do you want to replace the connector? unless yours is corroded badly. And it's just a 90* fitting, i think 3/4" or 5/8" barbed one side and the other is some thread npt or bpst. You can probably pull it out and head over to a plumbing store and get it. They can at least measure it for you so you know what to look for.

Yeah they're easy enough to drop out that. I've run multiple Junkyard diffs after just changing the fluid.