BluDestiny

Well I think that's more for the radius right off the flange. From what I've seen, most other headers (MSA) immediately start to go down, where these pacesetters actually go out about an inch. Also the tubing diameter may be different. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/exhaust-s30/27667d1232138451-msa-3-into-2-headers-twice-pipes-imgp2568.jpg

Well the mounting surface will be exactly the same, which is really the important part. The steering column joint doesn't really change through the years.

Teemum, what did you do for the rear 5 lug?

The butchered that shock tower and cut wayyyy too much out to be safe.

Dude that's a sweet project, but I don't have any info for you. If you were to have an adapter machined, your best bet would be to cad it first.

Parts car, then for sale/wanted adds on several z forums, then junkyard if your lucky. I bought a running parts car, then sold all the parts, then ended up buying most of the parts for the same price I got the entire parts car for!

I would grab a spare just in case it happens again to make sure it's the ECU.

I believe they make one without cork. I could have sworn that the one I got from autozone didn't have cork in it.

Have you actually measured the battery voltage when this happens? Have a friend in the car hit the gas while you are checking the battery voltage or alternator output to see if it really is going that high.

With that much power you'll be able to spin any tires you probably plan on getting. I would go with 16x8's 0 offset with 225/50/16's. They have roughly the same choice of tires, and I would go with some sticky tires, Either the star specs that RebekahsZ mentions, Khumo XS, Hankook RS-3's or BFGoodrich rivals. I would also plan on doing something about the suspension because worn out suspension is no fun.

Not 100% in LA per say, but not exactly a far drive. http://www.werks2.com/ They have a small show room in burbank with multiple seats out, and if you call in advance and they have a seat in stock they can bring it out to try out. They mostly deal with sparco and bride, and a few momo's. They also carry safety harness, all the mounting gear, and can make the seat brackets.

When you MSA's one do you mean the competition gasket? I used that with some high temp rtv and didn't have a problem till 20k in. even then it was minimal leaking.

Overpaid for a friends body work. I've had a friend help me and I kicked him down $200, that was for all the dins on the car, sanding it down completely and primering it, plus I bought the materials which he kept since he was in autoshop at the time, except the paint which we used up. He even helped me make a panel and weld it in for a small 4" square hole. Then again my car was not as rusty as this one. Normally when I think friend, I think sub $500. Also like I stated, I didn't know how extensive it is. If he is forming new metal panels to weld in then yes that's probably a great price. From the pics, yeah your probably getting agreat price assuming he knows how to deal with the rust. Personally, I would have passed on that and done what Tony D has said. Looked at overpriced Z's here in FL, said I can can a straight rust free driver for half what people are asking in FL, and found a car for $2000 in Phoenix. It is currently being stored at my uncles in Phoenix.

There are generally two thoughts when buying cheap turbos, the first being "hey if it blows, I only paid $200, and can get 4 or 5 more before I even come close the price of that garret I was looking at". The next is "this is only temporary until I do get that nice garret I was looking at" As long as people know that what they are getting can potentially grenade, I'm not one to say anything, For the people that do complain, well their just living in a make believe world. Sideways how long have you been at those boost levels?

Wires should not be getting hot. Did you modify or change any of the cars wiring or upgrade the alternator?

There are multiple people on here who have just "slapped on a turbo" to their NA engines, me being one of them, and it worked decently, could probably have done better with a real tune, but I was pushing stock boost, like 7psi. I recall a thread where someone was doing this and using a 8:1 fmu and was at like 10 or 12psi. By no means is this the right way, but it will work. Assuming your engine is stock, you should have 8.8 or 8.3 compression, which is not "high" compression at all, considering there are cars that come with 10+ stock from the factory.

I would trust the piping and intercooler, don't use that turbo, and I defiantly would not trust any electronics from ebay. The BOV's and wastegates seem to be a crap shoot, I've hear stories of them working for years, and others where the diaphragm ripped in a month.

Maxima rear calipers. or s13 240sx rear calipers. There is someone in the vendor section selling kits for $400, silvermine sells kits, MSA sells kits etc. There are multiple threads on this in the brake and faq section

Wow you dropped a lot of money on parts. I would probably have the cage guy also install new floor pans if you plan on having more than 300hp, which is cake for an SR. Also have you checked the frame or straightness? This looks like it's going to be a good build.

Exedy makes a stock replacement available online from multiple vendors for around $100. I would trust it more than a LUK from autozone. http://thmotorsports.com/i-126505.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=1265051978NISSAN280Z&utm_campaign=GoogleShoppingSeanVehSpec&adtype=pla&kw=&gclid=CP6hrc7JjbwCFSdp7AoddBoAtg The one I think you are looking at is the stage 1 exedy has, which is a great clutch. I used mine for 35k, multple autox sessions, several cross country trips, one was towing a trailer, and even 5k miles with it holding stock turbo hp. But without knowing what clutch you currently have in there (betting it's a 225mm clutch, but could be wrong) it would be a gamble. You should pull it out asap and measure it.

Ok so you're investing right around $1000 for this guy to do body work? At this point you have to go with it and hope he does a great job (granted I don't know how extensive the body work your car needed it, nor his skill) because I think you overpaid. Is this coming out completely painted or just primered?

Keep waiting and be patient. The problem with friends who did stuff like this for a career have actual jobs to do first. They work on it when the real work is slow.

The swaying feeling is probably mostly from your crappy sidewall tires.

You have an 81, so I'm assuming that the bccd for you is under the manifold and not part of the throttle body. I would much rather replace the unit, instead of trying to take it apart. I'd hit up local junkyards or post a for sale add. In fact, Borini is local to you and can more than likely loan you one to see if it really is your problem. DO NOT delete this item. It will only make it run like more crap.

Welding them in isn't exactly bolt in...