BluDestiny

Its probably all sway in your tires. I would go with some 16 or 17" wheels and appropriately sized performance rubber. Edit: personal favorite on a ZX is some 16x8 wheels and some 225/50/16 tires. Should be close to stock size so speedo won't be off, and tires are cheap enough to get good ones.

Why do you even need this? I've done away with it on both my ZX's and never had any vapor lock issues

Simtech. Talk to Craig. Great guy and he's personally installed and tuned an sds system on my friends s130 fairlady.

Adjustable rear A arms. Techno toy tuning, Arizona Z car, and a few other companies sell them.

There aren't really any. You can cut and reweld, but that isn't a true short throw. Spend a little extra and get a brass shifter bushing.

What do you mean the champion radiator guys were saying no dice? A champion rad should work. Afco also makes a huge one through thezstore.com, and mishimoto I think has started to make one that is fairly affordable and has an amazing warranty. I'm assuming that you aren't doing anything too wild, just an L28 with whatever head you currently have along with the stock Su's? If so then your stock radiator would honestly cool it just fine.

Ok so if memory serves, you axles should be the pop in type with a c clip. Maybe its possible it came off or the splines are chewed up? I would pull and service the axles, and take the diff cover off and look for debris

Do you have series 1 tail lights for a ZX? or just the series 2 from the parts car?

So your taking about that low grating sound right? the squeaking is normal. The low grumble almost sounds like a metal on metal, but honestly I've never heard anything that sounds like it. It could be from the exhaust rubbing on the axles, or something from the angles that the axles are at. Have you considered a diff swap?

Have you checked the Fuel filter near the tank for debris? Could have knocked some loose in the turns

Have you had your rear wheel bearings checked recently? Almost sounds like wheel bearings, or a loose caliper bolt or something. To check the bearings yourself, bust jack up the rear of the car so the rear wheels are completely off the ground, grab the top and bottom of the tires firmly, and try and wiggle it loose. If there is any play at the rim (not talking about tire flex) then id take it to a shop for a final opinion.

Probably the whole box. I've never done it, but I have messed around with both md they don't look tat similar. I'm sure there is a way you could block off all the vacuum tubes and rig up the mixing plaster controls, but it would save time to remove an replace. Either way your looking at removing the dash. I believe akumazedex did this in his build tread, although it isn't that well documented, so you could probably send him a pm.

You don't have cv joints, unless you swapped them into your car. You should have regular U joint axles, which do go bad. Does this sound only happen on slope when there is more weight on the car? That would be indicative of angle since there is more weight on the rear causing change in the angles for the axles. You should therefore be able to recreate it with say an extra 200-300lbs in the trunk on level ground. Are you sure this doesn't happen when you are turning left or right either? Only when uphill? Or does it go away when your turning in a direction?

You can buy those from summit or jegs. Just look for those fittings. I had some brake lines custom made, and brought the rubber and hardline as one piece. Cost me less than $30 for both fronts

+1 for dry ice, a hammer, and a plastic chisel. I've done 4 cars like that and it really is the only way to do it properly without leaving tiny chunks on the pans.

I drove on a bad head gasket for 4 months, and the only think I noticed was lower power. I had completely lost compression in that cylinder, but it still ran. If you an afford it, mishimoto has a great warranty. Have you pressure tested your cooling system?

If you're strapped for cash, a cheap eBay champion one will normally work. That being said, if you're loosing coolant at more than a gallon a week then there is something seriously wrong with your cooling system. I'd guess a deformed head gasket that is letting water into a cylinder.

I'm in need of taillights, but I don't want the ones with lines. I like the series 1 kind

The thing on the right looks pike the shifter bushing, the metal rod looks like the pin for the clutch or brake pedal.

Get some voltage reading from the battery, then check if anything is coming out of the ignition switch.

So it got worse between that time and now, I have no idea how that happened. And most of these mods being mentioned honestly should only be done to a car that is seeing a lot of track time.

There are a few companies in. The SoCal area that reproduce carbon fiber hoods for sure for the s30. Look up seibon s30 hood. Not sure who deals with them, or who anyone that has used them. You may be able to contact Johnc for a reliable source. Also Seattle does have a point with the hatch glass, the actual hatch metal on an s30 does not weigh that much, so for the price if you were putting the glass back in, I don't think it would be worth it. Unless you like the look.

What you read, and I think the point they were trying to make is that you are now going to have an unproportioned brake set up. I'd take a stock proportioned set up over yours any day and I'd probably be able to outbrake you. Your front will probably lock up a lot easier now, which isn't a good thing. That segment you quoted even says that a proportioning valve can't make it back to normal. I'd do a rear disc setup for the reasons Seattlejester listed, like the hub not falling off and the ease of service. Plus it looks better. But if I wanted a serious track setup id go with the AZC track setup

Howler, do the m30 mounting points have a ridge to use with eccentric bolts? Or just a slot? That clunking if probably you diff. When is the last time you changed the diff oil? If you haven't you can easily drain it, pop the cover off and check the gears for any wear, but I'm guessing its just excess lash from being 30+ yrs old. The car hasn't been in any fender bender right? Clean title, po never said it was hit etc?

Any more pics of that? It looks amazing.