BluDestiny

You should probably get some bigger tires. It'll look a lot better.

So it works with the 240sx speed sensor? not 100% on how programmable speedo's work. Guessing it takes a reading from the 240sx sensor and you input correct speed values and it creates some sort of plot to go by.

I believe you use the 240sx TB. That's why the 71b tranny has to get machined.

So have you done the wiring for the reverse lights? and what about the speedo?

There were 3 kinds of steering available for ZX's. Manual, power assisted, and recirculating. The last two are both power steering, and have a better ratio than the manual. The worst kind of steering (space saving wise) is the recirculating, because it has this big stupid black box thing on the fender. This is an issue when you use a turbo because if gets in the way. I have manual steering an don't find it hard at all to turn.

Damn doors are heavy. And that's with no glass correct?

Pics

How much do the spinwerks weigh?

The trim that's on the pillars is screwed into the b pillar under the weatherstrip I think and it all just sort of comes off once you unscrew the things. The trim on the door under the window is a pain in the a$$ to get off without damaging. so I left it on.

2550 with drive of doable. I was at 2460 without my fat self in my ZX. I had no bumpers, removed the sound tar, no interior except for a single sparco and no accessories (AC, PS, window squirter, cruise etc). I still had a compete dash in though and was running some 15" wheels with 205/50 tires. Weight went up when I switched to bigger wheels. Also remember that the ZX gas tank holds 20 gallons of fuel. That's like 80lbs right there. So I do track days at a little under a 1/2 tank. Gollum, you forgot to mention the entire exhaust system, with the cat and muffler and crap.

Well considering what I just said, the ZX suspension isn't horrible, and can be made to handle better. If you're doing this because you think it will make you an ace driver you're going to be disappointed. If you're doing this because you think it'll be fun, go for it, I'd just prefer a write up instead of going in blind.

He hasn't done it yet, he is still mocking it up. He is doing this for the reason outlined below. The point is to have correction in all directions for rear camber/caster/toe. When you extremely lower a ZX (more than say 2 inches, but even 2 inches) will cause massive toe in and negative camber. This can not be taken out no mater what you do with stock components. PPK is doing this so that he can run correct wheel geometry while being as low as he is. Even myself, lowered maybe 2 inches or a little more has a problem with some toe and camber. An old school way to combat this is to measure how much correction you need (so you already know how low you want your ZX) and you cut and weld on heim joints in an offset pattern. This only fixes the problem and does not allow you to really change anything anymore. If you raised your car, well you just messed up the angles again. On top of this, the rear subframe is 4 points instead of 2. It really stiffens the chassis up more at really a minimal amount of weight gain. This would be the next step in my suspension, if I get any kind of competitive and become a fab master any time soon lol.

If your 280z has rst enough to make you want to swap, then yes it's worth it. For the swap parts, everything rejracer said. Personally I'd take all that stuff off, swap in the block and keep it carbed, and stick a 4.11 r180 in the rear. Then sell everything else from the 280z.

All the 280zx turbo's from 81 are automatic. Of the NA models, it's a lot less, but I don't know an exact number. I see them on CL all the time though.

You can easily find a subframe from an s13 in a junkyard of CL for less than $100. I sold mine for $30 with no arms. Adjustable arms, solid bushings, general cleaning and powder coating can easily raise the price of the subframe though. Then there is the fab work of course. Then getting a quality LSD in your diff and a custom driveshaft, then converting to s13 coilovers since it'll work with the rear subframe. It all adds up. I would suggest an s13 subframe, as the s14 is just a tab bit wider (were talking an inch or two at best, but that can be all the difference) and just bracing the s13 subframe. Purepontiackid on ratsun is currently fitting one. It took him a lot of measuring to get the arm lengths right. He had to chop them shorter

Ok this is what you do. Slash your tires and get some decent sized wheels and tires, remove the bumper shocks. Then lower the car about an inch or two. Thank god you already removed all the fake "accessories" and the fog lights. My eyes were about to commit suicide. That shows you're on the right track. Go look at some build threads, both here and ratsun to get some ideas.

I sold my wheels back in February, apparently their website is also down. It should be diamondracingwheels.com This should be there number: http://www.yellowpages.com/milwaukee-wi/mip/diamond-racing-wheels-inc-1784920 I had absolutely no issues at all with them. They balanced out fine and never wobbled or vibrated at speed. There have been cases where this did happen though, I guess I just got lucky.

Lol been working on my ZX in various iterations for like 6 years now. Do it once, do it right and it'll save you money....if you don't ever plan on changing anything (said no one ever).

Do you have a better pic of the motegis?

Those are diamond racing wheels. I had them custom ordered. 16x10 5.5in of backspacing for the rears, and 16x8 4in backspacing in the front. Hardest part is finding wide 16in tires

The sump priced out much higher than just making a new oil pan. But to keep costs lower I'm thinking about either relocating part of the front cross member forward a few inches and adding extra subframe bracing.

So who exactly is at fault here?

Sounds like fuel or spark. 7ish psi is stock and 10psi is completely normal for an L28et.

It looks similar to the wood village "battle" s30 from speedhunters. Probably just really well modded wide ZG flares http://www.speedhunters.com/2010/02/car_spotlight_gt_gt_woodvillage_s30/

I used a few pieces of 1/4" thick rubber that I sandwiched between the radiator and support. It's been like that for....3 years now no problems. I also used some 3m foam crap to fill in the gap between the rad and the support.