BluDestiny

Just bought an oil pan from Chumptrack since he pulled his L28et. Waiting for it to arrive then sandblasting re-tapping for AN and putting everything on.

Dude no, a head gasket is like a 4 hour job. and it cost like $20 for a head gasket. You just need a chain chalk, some Hex sockets for the head bolts, torque wrench and a basic metric socket set for the random bolts. FYI I pull my head with the intake/exhaust on....... Wayyyyyyy faster, but its a heavy biatch to lift up by yourself. Edit: I just bought a 240sx like a few weeks ago and have been working on it for my DD. strange coincidence. How much do you have into your 260z as of now? I've been tracking all the money going into my 240sx like a hawk...

Try searching for shortnose to longnose LSD swap. I know people have done it, but the problem is the half shafts that go into the pumpkin. I believe Z32 have the 6 bolt ( 3 pairs of 2 bolts). An adapter would need to be made.

It will cause lower compression and will feel a little slower, and the quench will be affected by the dished pistons and head chamber shape. Edit: misread the post, you can swap the cam in but if your cam is externally oiled you need to run the cam oiler

Because it will detonate. With carbs you can adjust the fuel, stock ecu can't. Also if you want to run a more aggressive cam you can't since the stock ecu can't compensate the overlap. So it would be a little pointless to run the higher compression and turn the timing back. However I don't know if any machine work would help, like opening up the valves and stuff, but again it would be pointless.

It could be that when your installing the steering wheel your pinching or position it so the wires aren't contacting correctly. This used to happen to me when I would remove my steering wheel, then a week later or after riding down a really bumpy road it would start working again.

If you can weld, make some mounts buy a tranny and throw in the SBC.

Was you're motor rebuilt to stock specs? and what do you eventually plan on using your engine for? ( just DD or a lot of track time) 20-50 is a little thicker, its what I run. I'm in Florida, I haven't had any ill effects and I've done 2k mile trips and several track days. You probably wouldn't notice a difference, especially if your engine is already broken in and its a DD.

78 did offer black. It was the black pearl addition. The different shades could be body work used to cover up dents, possibly primer. I would sand as much down as you can before you have it resprayed ( or respray it yourself). Also suspension should be your first priority over paint. I would like a car that handles and can launch before I have a good looking car lurch and sway like crazy. CrazyOctopus is actaually using 15x10 all around. Unless you're going for that style, 8inch or 9inch should be fine. 10inch is for when you're going to flare it.

205/60/15 on a 15x6 swastika (really squishy sidewall) 205/50/15 on a 15x7 (a lot stiffer sidewall)

That would be a better solution and make a slightly more aggressive head

Probably possible with chamber welding, but if your going to spend that much just try to find a new head.

The red one is DevilZX, its a variation of the ducted xenon airdam MSA sells. The top white zx is actually out of commission, the owner junked it after wrecking it. His front lip was a fiberglass lip that was bondoed over to make it smooth ( after someone kicked in his front lip). @roger: The front bumper itself is $350, but it is about 2 inches wider than the actual front fenders are, so you would need to run the front fenders or trim it and re-glass it. That's why I said about a grand. Full kit is $2750.

I got a used HKS and it has a 2.5" inlet, 4 inch tip and 7inch center body. I'm running it strait pipe from some headers, and its starting to get to me. Pics for reference size:

There are tons of people parting out Zx's. If your alt turns out to still be bad, just surf the classifieds and look for someone parting out a ZX. I threw my old one away and I know it was working, but no one wanted it for $10. not even as a core replacement.

It will have a little more kick to it from uped compression but probably not a noticeable amount. I'd sell the MN47 to fund getting your car running, especially if you're only doing this temporarily. An mn47 should really have head work done to it.

Yeah that looks like a really bad cruise control setup. Do the wires under the dash connect to a switch or button?

Does power come on when you turn the key?

I see no picture edit: that almost looks like a crude cruise control? can you get better pictures that trace it all the way to the throttle linkage?

Meh, the IMSA is a little too boxy, and you need at least 10" wide rims front and rear to actually make it look fitted right. Plus its like $1g

This is my favorite airdam that keeps the bumper. Its a kaminari one that PPK found in a junkyard. I believe frank 280zx also have a pretty sweet looking air dam also. The stuff MSA sells looks *** as hell. I was about to do that, but I like the Gnose on 280zx's, granted its not pained yet.

It could be something on those carbs is stuck or bent. Did you inspect them before just putting it all together? But mroe than likely a massive vacuum leak and/or bad sealing around the carb/intake/head.

Sounds like bubbles. Do what the first guy said and burp the system. I run a 70/30 water to coolant with water better. My car normally doesn't get above 200ish. When I swapped out my sensor in my 260z it did read higher but not that much higher. Ultimately you can get a infrared heat gun and actually measure the temp of your coolant lines to see if your gauge is accurate.

Yes I did. I actually have had it installed for a month now I think. Here are the adapters mentioned above (M18x1.5 to -8 adapter) Oil cooler AN fittings And the SS lines, I just ran them along the frame rail and behind the fuel lines, zip tied in place