BluDestiny

My friend had blown his motor in his families 280zx 2+2. it was taking up space in his driveway. At the time I had just learned to drive and he knew I wanted a nissan of somekind. He gave it to me for free. After doing plenty of research I thought the coolest thing would be an early s30 that didn't need to be smogged ( after failing several times with my friends 280zx). Bought a 260z in fantastic condition and DD'd that for about 2 years, then threw in a semi built L28 with cam webers etc... lost the fun in it since it constantly gave me problems. Last summer I crashed my friends 280zx, and bought a coupe shell and swapping everything over and did more mods to the suspension. Sold my 260z that was cool, fun, better looking, and more valuable to fund the 280zx. Eventually I'm going to go back to a s30, early 240z and do it right when I have the time and money.

What exactly are you doing with this one? goals/hopes and dreams....

How much did you get it for? and eww its a late model.

PM battlesquaddatsun. He went analog to digital. Basically you should just need the cluster and harness. edit: Oh you're planning on rewiring it yourself. Missed that

I spent 3 hours buying my last car. I got there, my friends spent time at the beach and I basically went through the entire car with the buyer. I had him jack it up, I checked the underside, brakes, exhaust system. Then we went on a drive, first around town, we got some lunch (on me), then on the freeway for about 50 miles. I had him get on/ off a bunch and floor it. I also had him stop to get some drinks halfway through the trip. 5 hours is a bit of exaggeration but when you say "As a seller, it's a take it or leave it thing for me." I probably wouldn't want to buy anything from you. You sound like you're trying to offload damaged goods. Also "it's going to have quirks and small issues, and any buyer should be aware of that." Well I want to know all those quirks. I hate buying a car, and going through the wiring finding it all ghetto rigged together, among other things.

Test drive it for 5 hours and find out yourself. In my experience buying cars, its quite hard to find someone honest about the problems.

None of my Z's have had any amount of "bad" rust, other than the parts car that looked like **** anyway. I'm from the great state of California he worst was in my first ZX and it had a hole the size of a deck of cards. I got that patched by a body guy for $50. Down the road when I'm outta college and want to torture myself, I may buy a rusty one, learn to weld and have at it.

Do the rear lights get power though/ like if your turn your lights on do the rears come on? or when you put it in reverse do the reverse lights work? Could be the old " little plastic tab in the pedal broke so the brake lights were stuck on" scenario and the PO just disconnected the brake lights to get them to turn off before you bought it.

when you remove the oil cap or dipstick during operation it introduces pressure into the crankcase, which pretty much stalls the engine. I wpould replace the oil pressure sensor if it looks too old. Also is this the front end you ordered? Because mines a repro, but I got it for $300.

When I had mine off, I had the hubs blasted and powdercoated. And brought it to a shop to grease and pack the bearings. I basically picked up my hubs like this: You shouldn't need to press them in, my friend used a socket and a soft hammer to pound them in. What tires are you using?

Edan, Have you looked into how this will effect the brake bias? Or is it still too early to tell?

You want taillights like this right?

sames flow rate as long as the impedance is the same and, depending on what kind of fuel rail, same fitting type.

http://www.dapperlighting.com/ Dapper lighting makes HID's in a 7" round style, fits s30's and s130's. Tail lights weren't made for turbo and NA. There was an early style and a later style. The later style was from late 81 to 83. It had the lines in it. I don't like those.

Did you ever post pics of the ZX?

Completely depends on the shop. Normally they have set rates for certain thing ($100 to tank it, $80 to deck etc...) Time also depends a lot on the shop and how busy they are. I dropped my block off in April, paid $100 every week for like 3 months and they still hadn't finished. I got it back in late August becasue I was telling them I was about to go to college and needed it back unless they wanted it taking up space. During those early summer months they got a lot of work for drag engines and people paying a lot of $$$. I had it done at Burbank Speed and Machine in Burbank CA. Total cost me close to $3000, that was with the cost of new forged pistons($700), Exedy clutch ($300), and Fidanza Flywheel($300) plus new bearings/seals/gaskets. So you can see parts were probably half my cost. Machining the other half. Edit: On another occasion I had an L28 block refreshed through sunrise Z in Glendale CA and it cost about $1300. Dropped it with them and they did the outsourced the machine work, then assembled it at their shop.

You need like 1" spacers in the back to make it look better. Also your pics are huge.

I'd still probably do it, if I wanted to get super competitive. Or when my MSA rotors are finally toast

It may interfere only because the turbo scoop hood was more narrow than the one with little vents.

Define no space? I saw that you couldn't get a pinky in from the XXR thread, but that's a lot of space. I have like 2mm of space between my tire and the spring( but I have coilovers) You could easily correct with a 5mm spacer with stock wheel studs

Better yet a town... http://thedailywh.at/2012/04/09/ikea-expansion-of-the-day/

or your death.

First of all they don't come shaved and they look fugly with all the bosses still there( bolt holes). Second of all, you can tell what most of the things that get eliminated are from looking at pictures. Remove one system as a time after thorough research on EVERYTHING connected to your intake. I have 4 things connected to my intake. Valve cover breather to the throttle body, PCV on the bottom, FPR vacuum port, Brake booster vacuum port.

Did not see that one coming. Very cool

Ok, Rundown of spacers are if you use thin ones it shouldn't be an issue. The bigger ones, 1" plus, bolt onto your hub like wheels and have their own studs. The won't really affect performance unless you didn't properly install them, then they could potentially shear your studs if you hit a nasty pothole. Like I said, battlequaddatsun is running those same exact wheel sizes but with +10 offset. If you get 0 offset they will clear everything. As for backspacing, 4.5" works perfect on an s30, the ZX's can take about that in the front and a little more in the rear (so to speak). if you want it to stick out more you actually want less backspacing, which is effectively what the wheel spacers would do.