NewZed

930. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119982-2jz-overkill-z-for-sale-35k-obo/

The first could just be wide tires. I don't know what "tramline" means, but if you mean it tends to grab and follow road ruts, that's a sign of loose bearings, and maybe other steering components. Wearing out tires is also a sign of loose parts. Excessive toe will do the same. That orange boot is not stock so somebody's been in there. Either they tried to fix what you're dealing with or they caused it. I had loose bearings and a wandering, rut-grabbing car for about a year. I adjusted toe to compensate, dinked around with the rack a bit, and wore out my tires pretty quickly. Replaced the bearings and set the toe to zero and I've had the new set of tires for about 4 years (just a street car). It can be hard to tell if the bearings are worn. Mine didn't seem worn but they were. Often the bearing seats in the hubs are worn so new bearings won't properly torque down. But if you get everything right, the car will track straight over typical worn, high-volume highway grooves, and feel tight at the steering wheel. Like a normal car.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

A dial-back timing light might help you see the advanced number. I'm just trying to figure out your words. If you can't see the marks, then how do you know it's jumping? That's where I get lost. Another clue, overall, might be - why are you looking at it? Does the engine not run right? That might offer some guidance. And the thing about spinning the cam gear still makes no sense. You might bend some valves, but the CAS is in the distributor, driven by crankshaft rotation, through a gear that spins the oil pump shaft and the distributor shaft. It's not driven by the cam shaft. You can have perfect ignition timing control as the cam gear spins randomly. Sorry, but that's the way the stock system works. Maybe your crankshaft drive gear is loose. Maybe the distributor/oil pump drive shaft has play in it.

Than you have a blockage or a bad gauge. Yes, high fuel pressure will cause the problems you described. Proper fuel pressure is the foundation for the ECU's injector control algorithm..

Seems unlikely. You didn't confirm that you saw page EFEC-67. Why would you look through the suspension chapters? Seems more like you're just not sure what you're looking at. You said you can't see anything but then implied that you can see 0 and 20. And "spinning the cam gear" doesn't have anything to do with anything really. Certainly not erratic ignition timing. Sorry, just trying to find your level. You're obviously new to engines so you're going to have to put some work in. Give some background on you, and how long you've had the car. If this is a new problem, if the engine has ever run right, did you do somehtng and this problem cropped up, stuff like that. You're just a guy who has a problem he can't describe well at this point. Good luck.

1983 is new. That's a start. 3 ECU swaps is new. That helps. How about some timing numbers? 10 to 20, 15 to 16, 5 to 25. Those would be significant. Have you looked through the manual? EFEC-67 describes what the ECU uses to adjust timing. Just trying to help. There are many reasons timing can move around. Maybe somebody will feel energetic and make a list.

There are no facts in your post except 280ZXT, crank angle sensor, and timing mark jumps around. Could be as simple as your inductive timing light pickup is too close to another plug wire. But without some details, nobody can offer anything useful.

How is your FPR connected to the rail? If you connect the FPR backward it just blocks the return line and you'll get full pump pressure in the rail.

The system taking more amps implies that you have a short somewhere or a bad component, like a starter. Something must be taking that energy and getting hot, better be careful. What's the voltage do if you don't connect the charger?

Here's another - http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1CZ06S0DX703075

This 83 in Arlington might have one. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200

Either your new regulator is bad, or one the wires at the T plug on the alternator is not connected to the battery. "checked fuel pressure" doesn't mean anything without numbers. Open the Engine Electrical chapter and get a multimeter. You mechanic friend should have one. Check the bottom (edited - said top before) of the T plug at the alternator for battery power. Measure fuel pressure, according to the procedure in the Engine Fuel chapter. Edit - actually, with the key on, both top and bottom contacts of the T plug should shows battery voltage.

This is classic dirty-or-stuck-dimmer-switch-contacts behavior. High beam contacts work, low beam don't. Spray some contact cleaner in to the white plastic switch at the base of the turn signal stalk and work it back and forth many times. There's crud and corrosion in there.

Find out where the click comes from. Put a meter on the starter terminals and see if the starter is getting voltage. You'll need to think about the difference between the solenoid and the starter motor itself to figure out if the solenoid and starter are getting proper voltage, but not working, or if they're just not getting battery power.

That helps. I was really looking for tire dimensions, not brand, but the pictures show a "normal" tire, probably 70 series. Ride height does not look that low. One thing you might clarify is if you mean factory-spec. ride height or what you have now, when you say you're happy with the stock ride height. Because if the springs are sagging, you're not at the spec. ride height, you're lower. Do you plan to keep those tires? If you don't you might get the new tires before going too far. They might change things. Also, you said camber in the first post, but caster in the last one. The only thing that's adjustable though is toe so doesn't really matter anyway. Unless you have adjustable camber plates. If you do have adjustable camber plates, even though you don't have adjustable spring perches, there might be other changes to the strut mounts. I might be complicating things but it's not clear what you're dealing with. Your car's been modified and there are a variety of changes that could have deviated from stock late 260Z. People do strange things once they start cutting and welding. Anyway, the shop's comments about alignment can't really be acted on easily. They're just observations. So you're left with a car that looks right (if I read your comments correctly) but has a harsh ride. So, tires and shocks, and spring preload are the three main things to consider. The KYB's are generally considered to be a mild, OE-type shock. They don't get much softer.

"World class" just means "world-wide market". "Class" just means a market classification, not like "high class". Kind of off-topic but it is one of those things that shows if you want to sell a lot of something, give it a name that sounds good.

I think that johnc's point was that the 240Z tubes are different from the later 260Z and 280Z tubes. They're all S30's. Check the camber specs in the FSM's. The later S30's run more camber. Not much, but not the same.

Here's a source - http://www.datsunstore.com/transmission-manual-shift-c-203_206_357_431_435.html Pretty sure the dealer might have them also. The 3.9 gear tooth number was used on some 1980's pickups also if you want to check the wrecking yards.

A thought - put a long straight edge on the rotor and compare distances at the top of the tube. If it's angle they'll be different than 1/4", if it's hub depth it will still be 1/4".

How much?

At least you got the right sub-forum. Edited - your post makes me uncomfortable. Here's a good start that's often recommended - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Buy the book.

Lots of generality and not much hard fact to go on. Kudos to those that tried but they're all shots in the dark. The SBC isn't that much heavier than the L6 although people think it is. An SBC with aluminum heads is lighter than full iron. No numbers at all on the ride height. Take a measurement. Tires have a huge impact on ride quality. The popular low profile tires are harsh. There are two types of 260Z bodies, early and late. They use different springs. Which body style do you have? "Coilovers" will only allow ride height adjustment. You'll have the same harsh ride if you don't get the right shocks, and springs, and bump stops, and set it all up right. Get some facts on what you really have and post those. A picture would help too.

It has to be about a spark plug gap's distance away from a ground point. It can be closer or farther but if you go with that distance you'll be able to see it and also know that it's not too far. If it's touching the ground point,of course, you won't see anything.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and see what's happening when the problem occurs. Leave it connected while you drive.