NewZed

Sorry, still not clear. The engine doesn't want to "turn on" or the fuel pump? What did you test last weekend? You said you've never seen the car run, but you said it started with starting fluid. That's a contradiction. How can you say that it "never does that" if you've never seen the car run? Overall, it's hard to tell what you're trying to describe. Read what you wrote and see if it makes sense. Could be that the fuel pump you replaced was bad due to rust. Rust which is still in the tank, killing the new pump.

So the fuel pump "works", meaning you heard ti spin? Have you seen fuel flowing, or measured pressure? Did the engine run a few days ago? Are you trying to resurrect a car that's been sitting for 26 years, that you've never heard run? The starter fluid is a good clue, You have spark. Year of car would be helpful.

The pins have been known to come out without a puller. Often, they can even be re-used. And often, they're pulled when they don't need to be pulled.

Looks like they are a low-profile supplier to Nissan, if the attached reference is correct. There's not a lot out there about them in English. If a person really wanted to take care with their new camshaft, the Paraut brand might be worth the extra money over ITM. Nissan used to chrome plate the early rocker arms but changed in 1969. Attached a Technical Bulletin copy. Seems like maybe they've always been a little bit problematic. Japanese Atsugi page: http://ejje.weblio.jp/content/ATSUGI+MOTOR+PARTS+Co.,Ltd.

So, OEM supplier to Nissan? Atsugi. These would be "Nissan" rocker arms?

And another from a reputable source. Reconditioned plus. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=35&Itemid=3

More rocker arm stuff. MSA's seem like they might be Paraut brand. Which seems to be a more expensive option, maybe of higher quality than the ITM's. Guessing only by the shiny mark in the pictures, and the price. http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1978&make=NI&model=280-Z-001&category=A&part=Rocker+Arm http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2030 http://www.elautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=A4040-51981&itempk=86615&mfr=Paraut&weight=0.20

If you're going to leave the valve cover breather open to atmosphere, you don't want to connect the crankcase hose to the intake. The valve/rocker arm cover cavity is connected to the crankcase. The Pallnet rail will just have an extra port to supply fuel to the CSV. lol

I just came across this. Might be useful. http://www.datsunstore.com/front-7074-used-p-1861.html

Been on for a little while and no problems at all. Just one data point, for reference.

Don't you really need just a head? Here's a recent thread on the same. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116474-ld28-intake-input/

Metal. I would make one of those spinning wheels, like on Wheel of Fortune or The Price is Right, and fill the slots with random things like fuel pump , fuel filter, PCM, grounds, carpet stuck under the gas pedal, etc. Spin and go. Spin, spin, spin...

You put 5 quarts in, on a 4 3/4 quart spec. And finding the source of "smoke" is a very basic skill for a competent mechanic. Check those hose clamps.

How long did the smoke last? What did it smell like? If you went out and drove it now would it do the same? How can you see smoke from the exhaust manifold if you're driving and the hood is closed? By "exhaust manifold" do you really mean exhaust pipe (the hole in the back)? Did you do any other work besides the fuel pump and oil change? You're either making something big out of not much, or you broke something when you were working on it.

This method just does not work with any of the EFI systems. You have to know the numbers. If you're running stock engine management you should have OBD and a code. You should learn how to diagnose your EMS before things get way out of hand. Stomping the gas to fix the problem doesn't work. You're on a bad path.

Describe your engine management system. Better details on the problem will help you also. Stomp, surge, bog, are pretty vague. Descriptions of when it runs right are good also.

Pretty sure i just read a thread from an Australian forum about carbed L28's with N42 heads used in the S130 body. There's a reference to the head also in the L6 Heads FAQ. Maybe they used a B cam for carb'ed L28's. I've wondered why the atlanticz cam spec. compilation (is that what you meant by the "book", or is there actually a book out there with cam letter designations?) skips the B. Tony D probably has details. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

It's just math. Here's some Google - http://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/05/16/what-size-fuel-pump-do-i-need-your-top-tech-questions-answered/ The typical auto store replacement pumps, like the Airtex E8312, are rated to 75-90 psi, 30 gph. He might have one on his car already. Crazy.

Kameari rocker arms. The specs are interesting, down at the bottom. Spendy. http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-rocker-arms-set-l6.html

You could do some math - http://www.fuel-pumps.net/fuelpumpsfaq41.html - then check specs. Of course, it doesn't look like you've confirmed that you need a new fuel pump. But you'll find out after you replace it. The pump doesn't know how much horsepower you're making, it just sits and spins, so no reason for it to wear out any faster with 10,000 HP than 10. If it worked for two months, it was sufficient.

Collecting a few more threads - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/50052-cam-wear.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/page-12?do=findComment&comment=1122024 later in the thread, #232 and earlier. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118926-engine-woes-read-on-if-you-dare/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1122036

Here's a recent thread with the similar comments about new aftermarket versus reground versus used rocker arms, from Schneider instead of Isky. Post #25. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/50052-cam-wear.html

I'm pretty sure that these are original 1976 rocker arms, pictures. From my old cylinder head, off an engine which appeared to all original. Either 150k or 250k miles. And here's a link with a few pictures of the ITM rocker arms. The used ones are different and the ones he replaced have a Z, instead of an X. No idea if that's relevant. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106910-loud-tickingknocking-noise/

Leon just relayed a conversation he had with Isky about rocker arms. He said that new or mildly worn used was the way to go. Now you report that new Nissan rocker arms were "bad rockers". Any chance that they weren't actually new Nissan? What will you be checking on the rocker arms? Looks like a quagmire. Post #232 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/page-12?do=findComment&comment=1122005

How does a bad rocker affect a valve and guide? Side loading? How would that happen? Just wondering. And did Delta do the first regrind on the rocker arms? I thought that they had issues? My impression on carbon buildup was that it comes mostly from combustion gases and fuel mix flowing over the back of the intake valve at certain times during engine operation. For example, when the throttle is closed the piston can exert a vacuum but there's no air to be pulled in. Flow stops, gases back-flow, condensation on the cold valve occurs. Same reason crud gets in the intake runners and all the way up to the throttle body. Not so much what's coming down the intake runner. No idea how to stop, except spend more time with the throttle open.