NewZed

There's a guy who recently snapped the tensioner head right off of the shaft. It was extended and cocked when he put the chain back. He had the same problem getting the sprocket back on as you. Pretty sure that if you get your eye just right or use a mirror that you can see the tensioner, with the valve cover off. If you see a lot of the shaft you might have a problem. You might try rotating the engine backward, but it could be too late. The half mm extra in HG isn't going to matter.

There's a useful picture on page EM-20. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

You only need a modified propeller shaft. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun-ZX_Order.html http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_MountingInstructions.html

In Post #16 you said the engine was running well, the only remaining problem was the jittery/cutting out tach. I missed the follow-ups to new problems. Primary resistance is between the coil + and the coil -. There's a really nice drawing in the FSM, very hard to misinterpret. Secondary is what you measured and should be very high. Like about 10,000 ohms, also shown in the FSM. So you measured the wrong thing, or reported the wrong spec. (1.4 ohms) but still got a bad number. I wouldn't assume that all of those things are related to one source. You need to figure out how to measure the right things first. No offence.

Ohms aren't drawn, they're just there, in the way. FSM says 0.84 - 1.02 for coil resistance, looks like you're using the 75 coil, not the stock 82 280ZX? You didn't say what the new coil had either. Did you measure with the coil connected or disconnected? If connected, then you were also measuring resistance through all of the other wires connected to - and +. Parallel circuit. Disconnect the coil before measuring primary resistance. What problem are you working on, the jittery tach problem? Put a condenser on the line, it can't hurt. Worst case, it's a useless piece of electronica on the circuit. The advance problem is a whole different thing.

But you probably know a lot more now. Broken stuff makes you smarter. You should check your timing, not so much the advance number but the quality/consistency of the light. If the mark is jumping around and seems retarded you might need to switch the wires. It will run with the wires backward but the trigger won't be consistent. MSD says violet is positive and most people say that the red from the VR is positive. So you would have yours backward. Red seems to be positive for the GM HEI module hookup, but who knows for sure what the MSD module needs. http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions1/6425.pdf

Check the wring diagram before going crazy. Here's a nice one - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/36494-free-full-color-wiring-diagram-1976-280z.html The obvious - bad bulbs. Second - bad connections. I had one get hot enough at the bulb to melt the socket allowing the contact to loosen and break the connection. Check the grounds. If you had a short the fuse would blow. Sounds like you have a broken circuit instead.

Have you removed the blower and cleaned it yet? Also the heater core. Lots of crevices to hide in there. sounds like you're hoping to clean it up without taking it apart but that's probably not going to happen. I found 1/4" of mouse droppings on top of the glove box in a parts car I bought, along with a blower housing full of mouse nest. Any little ledge where they can sit in safety is going to be a latrine.

This is fascinating and I hope it works. But is it really that simple to draw up a head on a computer, cast it, machine it, and have it work correctly right off the bat? A scan of the exterior of an existing head doesn't show internals that may have been designed to distribute and accommodate loads, in use and cooling/heating cycling. I would imagine that in the automotive world, there would be many trials, tests, failures, and redesigns before the final product was locked in. Seems like someone's going to need to offer up a test engine, and break a few heads before this is done. Eeyore

Somebody seems to think that they can get them - http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sop=10&_nkw=tokico+%2B+%283015%2C+3016%2C+3012%2C+3013%2C+3038%29&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:US:1150 eBay just popped out this notification a few days a go. Get the 3013 and don't use the spacer for the front.

I put a typical alternator capacitor/condenser on the coil negative post once to solve a jumpy tach problem. It was a GM HEI module with a Z31 coil (yes, the Tony D setup, but since changed to an external GM HEI coil). Stray RF or voltage spikes, who knows. The tach started working again. The tech circuit doesn't require much, in other words it's sensitive, it has a pretty large resistor in-line from the coil post.

No offense intended. You could have wired up the painless exactly like the original. None intended on this question either - have you confirmed power at the coil during cranking? There are two circuits from the ignition switch, one for cranking and one for running. One simple way to test the most basic elements of the system is to connect a jumper wire to the coil negative, leave the end hanging in air, place the end of the center coil wire next to ground with about a spark plug width gap, turn the key on, and tap the jumper to ground. That should create a spark from the coil. You'll be mimicking what the E12-80 or 6AL does. Make and break the coil circuit. Off topic, a little, but the MSD goes to single spark at higher RPM. How can it allow or generate an extra ten HP compared to a high energy ignition system like the E12-80? There's no logical reason for it. Maybe compared to an older points system? My take on MSD has been that it cleans up low RPM running on engines that might otherwise miss or not get a complete burn due to high performance cams or high CR's. Ignition system discussions are always interesting.

One problem that you might be having is that the original 260Z electronic ignition module is still in place. It would be at the end of that "tach sensor" wire in Post #5. That would be two modules on the coil negative but only one is getting the variable reluctor voltage spike. The other one isn't so doesn't allow the circuit to break, therefore no spark. Did the engine ever run? Are you "upgrading" the original 260Z electronic ignition? Describe what you have and someone will have a solution. JMortensen's suggestion would work, but only if you disconnect the original module. Then you would remove the E12-80 module, and extend the red and green wires from inside the distributor to the MSD module. And the order of the wires would matter, because the trigger from the VR would be either rising or falling. The MSD 6AL doesn't offer much more than the stock E12-80. Might be simplest to just crawl up under the dash by the fuse box, disconnect the stock 260Z module, and use your wiring scheme in Post #5. Sell the 6AL, and buy a 280ZX coil to work with the 280ZX module.

It's in the Tool Shed. You broke some Rules.

There's a Contact link on the webpage. You might send a message and find out, and ask if they're actually available. That last post is May 2010. The guy is stil making the RTz-style mounts, I think, so there's hope. http://www.technoversions.com/ I thought the older Ford V8's were either Windsor or Cleveland style, Windsor being small-block, Cleveland bigger, although the sizes weren't actually that different. 221, 255, 260 (Sunbeam Tiger - a model for the V8 Z), 289, 302, 351 were apparently the Windsor block displacements. That's just my vague, fuzzy memory of old Ford engines. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Windsor_engine

Looks like the lug nuts are torqued down over an air gap and the rigidity of the flat steel between the two rings is expected to transfer the force to the contact surfaces, maybe even just the outer ring. Even worse. But the steel isn't rigid enough. Probably flexing all over when racing. Looks like a poor wheel design. They should pay for your hubs if they're selling those as performance wheels. Maybe the design is meant for a hub that fits completely inside the outer ring. Could be the wrong application. Just an opinion, it's not my field. I just know the basics, and the picture is a little grainy, and two-dimensional. Looks bad though..

So that's where it is. Knew it was out there somewhere.

It's a discussion. Hybridz only lost a week though, And when Hybridz is gone, where the pictures were stored won't matter anyway. I don't know how you can tell that imgur and photobucket are viable businesses. Photobcuket is clunky and slow, I can easily imagine them going out of business. I may be jaded - I learned word processing using Word Star (all those memorized formatting codes useless now...), and my first e-mail account was on Eudora.

How long will imgur.com be around. There are threads with disappearing pictures happening now. When the site dies, the pictures and links go with it. It's a dilemma. Example - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1121078

Hit More Reply Options then Choose File then Attach this File. You probably missed the last step. Could be that you're using the stock bar bushings and they're allowing too much flex.

That type of clearancing is for the wider gear. To use the bigger CS bearing you have to enlarge its hole in the front case. It's a precision machining operation. It's the only thing you can't do in your garage unless you have some milling equipment.

Same wheels? I got the impression it was a fatigue problem from flexing, because there was a gap at the wheel mounting surface. My interpretation, I couldn't really be sure what was being proposed in the other thread.

You're right, more stuff when you're signed in. I get 2 pages, ~24 hrs when not signed in, 19 pages, ~4 weeks when signed in. And can't find an option for changing the view. But I still get newest first on the first page. Who knows. This is on a desktop computer. Maybe mobile platform OS is different.

All of these links are broken. Is this a dead Photobucket account or did some images get lost in the crash?