NewZed

There's probably a setting in your profile that got changed. View ascending versus descending. I have Chrome on windows 7 and I still get newest first. just like before.

Some computerized flow analysis seems like a good idea. I thought that the big problem with the L6 head is the flow, not so much the surface area.

Signal conditioning is done at the CAS. Piling on....

You might try controlling the coil with the E12-80 module alone first, to verify they work right, then add the MSD unit. The MSD basically inserts between the E12-80 module and the coil.

That guy that gave you advice the last time you posted this is a moderator. You should take the advice. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119653-a-fine-kettle-of-electrical-fish/?do=findComment&comment=1120930 Forget abut the brand of harness and the 12 volt power source. Figure out how the ignition system works and give it what it needs. You didn't say if you have spark either, just that the engine won't start. Check for spark. And describe what engine you're working with - carbs, EFI, etc. There are many engine swaps out there, 260Z doesn't tell much.

Bad angles cause vibration, not diff howl. Noise (the howl) transmitted in to the cabin from the diff is usually from the mounts being too solid, allowing a good path for high frequency noise. Is it possible that your propeller shaft is too long for the new setup, pressing the diff back in its mounts?

The Flying Spaghetti Monster could probably help you out. It will tell you what controls the relays that control the pump. You'll need to know what kind of car you're driving.

77's don't have boost. So it's either not a 77 engine or your description needs work.

One day and 12 posts later, no testing done, and you're buying new parts without knowing much more than when you started. Don't forget the coil itself. And if you're guessing on the module, the GM HEI module is a much cheaper way to go. It will wire up just the like the black box does.

I'm definitely no expert on converter stall speeds but I think that you have your understanding backward. The 2500 will be more sluggish than the 2800. The number is where the converter starts to "grab". So 2800 would be like revving the engine to 2800 RPM with a clutch and a manual transmission to get moving versus revving to 2500. Basically the high stall speed converter cars sound like somebody slipping the hell out of their clutch to get going. So high stall, you'll be the guy making a lot of noise to get going from a stop, low stall, you'll be quieter but not as quick. The converter should, generally, match the torque curve of the engine. So Lunati's advice is based on what their cam should produce.You probably don't want to go higher than that because it would be a waste of energy, but you could probably go lower to make the engine more streetable. Then tune the driving experience by adjusting the gear change points of the transmission. I'm just talking from what little I know about automatics.

Race only or street only? Or in-between? If you don't trust the cam designer, who will you trust? If you're not getting the power from the cam, maybe you have the wrong cam for the blend of parts.

The tachs get old and go bad. Your symptoms are like those of a bad ignition module. Also an overheating relay or electrical connection. It's a tough one. Timing light sticking out the hood might work, you could see the flashes. Or an aftermarket tach, if you have an old one laying around. Or you could do the GM HEI conversion, for a cheap effective fix. Worst case you still have the problem, but end up with a newer better-shape ignition module.. You're probably running on the 37 year old original ignition module and they definitely wear out eventually.

The specifics on that page are for the 1977 model. He added the other material as a bonus, but it may not be complete. Some of the other models have relays that end up powered all the time if you just follow the instructions. 1976 for example. If you hear a click when you connect and disconnect the battery, with the key off and a charged battery, that might be your problem.

For the record - http://schneidercams.com/300F_L6.aspx , Related Products. The More Info button on their web site doesn't really jump out at you but it does add more info.

Wring diagrams in the back of the EL chapter. Nissan did a poor job on it though, trying to show turbo and NA on one drawing. Still figurable. You are wrong (you requested). Edit - actually you're only partially wrong.

I saved the following thread a while ago because it had some interesting considerations and numbers. Quench and piston rocking, I've also seen that you either want to be in the "quench" area or completely away from it. If you're not in it but too close you can actually create a detonation zone. No facts to back it up, just a consideration. Some people seem to think that the Datsun "quench" heads weren't doing any quenching at all. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106806-long-rod-short-piston-combo-l28-tech-questions/?do=findComment&comment=999867 Numbers-wise, .025" = 0.635mm. So with a 1.25 mm HG (after installation), you'd have 0.615mm or .024" "quench" zone. So your mechanic might be right, depending on which part of the discussion in the thread I linked you look at. BRAAP suggests that .014" quench is "perfect" (Post #16), but two others stop at .028" and .025".

This thread is for 280Z's. The wiring is a little different from your 240Z. The guesses will be closer if you show how you wired your system. By show I mean a diagram, not pictures of wires.

There are eleven ignition system tests that you can do using a meter, page EL-28. You might also check the stator magnet to see if it's broken, check the air gap, check that the bushings aren't worn allowing the air gap to change. Look at the tips of the six point reluctor for signs that they've been touching the stator. Pretty common I think for the magnets to break and the bushings to wear out. The bushings are available as a maintenance item. Someone posted recently also about another part that wears, but I can't remember what it is. Might not find your problem, but you'll know more than you do now. On fuel - there's always the old gauge sticking from the hood method. Watch what happens in the problem zone.

Does fuel come out of the return line? Run it in to a gas can. That's even easier than connecting the gauge there. There are many ways to figure out where the blockage is.

There's a diagram in the FSM if you really want to be sure. Your description sounds right though. If it is, then you have a blockage of some kind, either before the FPR, at the FPR, or after the FPR. The FPR is just a valve that builds up pressure to a certain point then lets fuel by when that pressure is reached. Measure pressure on the return line. If there's high pressure there, then you have a blockage between the tank and the gauge. If there's no pressure, and no fuel flow, then you have a blockage between the return line and filter. Just logic it out. As noted though, replacing parts before understanding the problem won't get you anywhere. Make sure that your gauge is correct also. One last thing - where exactly are you placing the gauge? If it's before the filter you might just have a clogged filter.

That's a good hint. It led me to the most likely answer. I looked in what is probably the most reliable resource.

Thanks Leon. I just posted a new thread on Rocker Arms in the Nissan L6 forum, just for discussion. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119576-rocker-arms-state-of-the-situation/?do=findComment&comment=1120321 I was just on Rockauto and they only had ITM brand rocker arms. So even if the Sealed Power work, they may not be available. Parts seem to be going NLA in general. For example, new and/or resurfaced 225mm flywheels can't be found at the usual outlets anymore. Better start hoarding.

Got curious about rockers arms since people are still ruining camshafts, apparently from poorly reground rockers. Although camshaft properties might play in to it also. I pulled up a list of sources from the web. Looks like they range from cheap "new" ITM rockers ($9.40 each), to expensive new, ZCCJDM CNC-made rockers ($86.67 each). And a variety of reground options. I like to have plans in mind for future work and I don't see a way to swap a cam with confidence. Maybe some discussion will turn something up. Cheap ($9.40) - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4800036&cc=1209260 You have to get in to Rockauto and choose the model to see the option. ITM is the only one. http://www.itmengine.com/index.php http://www.itmengine.com/mycarparts-catalog http://www.amazon.com/NISSAN-DATSUN-200SX-ROCKER-214-2105/dp/B00DOCK2HC Spendy ($86.67) - http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93862/pd2120660/A_DATSUN__WEIGHT_MATCHED__L4__L6__CNC__ROCKER_ARMS_ Reground - http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/nissan.html http://www.datsunstore.com/rocker-engine-refurbished-p-869.html (Probably Delta? Both Seattle-area.) http://deltacam.com/ http://deltacam.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=17&sid=235856d60a7b9754b32a5f56bad25e2c http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51244-delta-cams-awesome-service-resurfacing-datsun-rocker-arms/ DIY reground - http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/88884-directions-how-resurface-rocker-arms.html http://community.ratsun.net/topic/5863-l-series-rocker-arm-refinishing/

Trolling...I can't help it. The two things above do not fit together at all. It's only 200 lbs. Plus, you're asking a vague question about "what would you do" but still not addressing what the car will be used for. Seems like you're just waiting for someone to make up your mind for you.

What is the number, and the other side of what? There's no real pressure on the return line. Maybe you have this problem - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119573-l28e-fuel-rail/?do=findComment&comment=1120302 The FPR is essentially a pressure relief valve. It's on the end of the fuel rail, not the front.