NewZed

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A torch on that fitting would probably get the male portion out. The brake fluid will boil and smoke and might catch on fire but it's not a big deal. Expansion from applied heat has amazing effects. And a wrench on the block itself will take the bending bracket out of the picture. OReilly Auto and other parts stores have a selection of pre-flared and fitted brake lines of different lengths, with the proper metric fittings. It's the quickest easiest way to get back in action if you don't want to make your own. Many have pre-fitted fuel lines also, usually called fuel line repair kits. I've done all of these on my car.

The cooling system is always pressurized, so the thermostat opening is not what caused the cap leak. It could just be a bad cap or it could be signs of a head gasket leak. Pull all of the spark plugs and look for signs of coolant. When the engine runs combustion gases get pushed in to the cooling system. Then, sometimes, when the engine stops running the coolant pressure pushes the coolant in to the leaking cylinders. That's just one possibility. There could be other things going on. Do you have the FSM? They're free to download at nicoclub.com. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-300zx-factory-service-manuals.html

The stock setup does essentially that but there's a fusible link in between. Otherwise you could short your battery through a bad alternator or an accidental ground at the B post.

It's not a stock Nissan relay, it's aftermarket. You'll have to see what the wires are connected to. The connector and its wires colors will offer good clues.

With a bigger, torquier motor, you could just change the rear diff ratio to get the highway RPM down. What ratio does the car have now? The 73 automatics came with 3.54, you could go to 3.36. Seems like you might just be assuming about things you need, and things that are possible. You don't want a 5 speed auto, you want an auto with overdrive. Which doesn't appear to be available for the L engine. Who knows though, maybe you can swap the bellhousing with a more modern transmission.

You might consider cooling (and heating) the transmission oil from the outside. Use the case, it's aluminum and will transfer heat well. The same concept as the cooling fins on a differential. But you could add another interface or two to get the heat transferred to the coolant that passes through the engine's radiator. A heat transfer block with flowing engine coolant would heat the transmission and its fluid faster but maintain temperature at a lower level. Might be as easy and effective as trying to pump high viscosity fluid out and back in.

You didn't really specify. Never heard of 5 speed Datsun automatics but it looks like other countries might have had them. Good luck. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Jatco_transmissions

Pretty sure that the L28 will swap right over on to the current L24 auto trans. Why would you think any differently? They're the same block. Make sure you swap the spacer over also from the L24's crankshaft.

Best to just get a meter and make sure power is getting where it needs to go. The EFI system has its own fusible link, inline on the supply wire at the positive terminal. It's green.

He's saying that the starter gear is getting bound on the flex plate? Seems like a stretch. Cheaper to try a new starter first. You could probably examine the flex plate through the starter hole too.

People sell cars without titles because they were unable to get the title. This has big mistake written all over it. You're wasting your time. I wouldn't take it if it was free.

So shipping costs or gas for the drive. How is your locale for emissions? 280Z's are usually in the emissions testing range, for idle at least. Clear title? Dealing with title issues from distance can be difficult. Looks like a lot of work for not much.

Click on the first link I provided, then click on Clutch Master Cylinder, click the year range, and you'll be able to find a drawing of the piece you're showing. Not sure why that wasn't clear. Click, click, click, drawing. $9.xx at Courtesy Parts, plus shipping. It comes with the rod though. Why would anybody sell just the clevis? I'm surprised that Nissan sells the rod and clevis as a separate item. If you're master cylinder isn't factory stock, then you're just shooting in the dark anyway. Edit - a closer look shows that Nissan does sell just the clevis. Weird. They call it the "Head". $3. Assuming that they actually have it.

Interior pieces are hard to find in good shape. A nice interior adds some value. You should break things down based on what you want to do with it. Is it a project to work on, a driver that looks nice inside and out, a performance car, a base for an engine swap, whatever. It's basically a 280Z that's been messed with. The bumpers have been swapped and the EFI has been removed and replaced with carbs. You'll spend a lot of time and some money getting the carbs tuned. they're probably tuned for the 2.4L engine they came from. Pennsylvania uses a lot of salt. There's probably a lot of hidden rust. The 50K miles is probably 150K.

Looks like you can get it with the rod. Maybe, assuming they really have it. Try your local dealer. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/

Sounds like the fairly common "heat soak" or "hot start" problem. Search those terms on the interweb and you'll find some good reading. What you describe and what you say the previous owner described look like two totally different things. Your problem is immediate, his/hers happened after 10-15 minutes of proper running.

Maybe it is running really rich. What's the fuel pressure? What did you do with the gas tank vent lines when you took the canister out? Did the gas smell exist before you made these changes?

Gasoline in the oil? I filled a crankcase full of gasoline once with a borrowed carburetor that had had the float bowl needle removed. Small block chevy so no external leakage was evident.

Probably waiting to see what happened this morning. Did it thunk? Metallic is usually clang or clank, not thunk. So that part was a little confusing. Free turbo engines...I'll take one too.

The NA 280Z EFI system is not a good way to run the 280ZX turbocharged engine. You could have a mismatch between the ECU and: the injectors (they're higher flow rate on the turbo), the TPS (three position for the Z, two for ZX), the CAS (not connected in your case since the 280Z ECU doesn't use one), and many other components. You probably already know that people will recommend Megasquirt. After re-working everything to use the 1980's technology, you'll still have just 1980's technology. The first thing that you should do is make a list of the parts you have. Engine block, pistons and head (P90, flat-tops, dished pistons, etc), CAS, TPS, turbocharger, turbo control pieces, etc. Then you'll have an idea of how to get things working right. You should stop trying to drive the car in the meantime. It's pretty easy to damage the L6 with with a turbocharger, especially when it's being boosted over spec., using the wrong ECU, and a bunch of mismatched parts. All you really have that's useful is a car and a turbocharged engine. Looks like your car could use a lot of work. It's not stock by any means so the factory service information won't help a lot. Post #31 in this thread. "Perfect" is a relative term, even though by definition it's absolute.. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67930-in-progress-75z-getting-81zx-turbo-motor/page-2?hl=scoutman75

You're probably just measuring at the wrong pins, or wires. The drop to 4.75 is probably "on" and 5 is "off". There's a voltage drop when the photo diode is switched, I would guess. I wish I had one of these, they look like fun to play with. Nobody ever shows what wires they're measuring so this problem, and any solutions, never get clearly explained, I think that what Nissan calls a photo diode is actually being used as a photo transistor. When the light from the LED hits the photo diode, current flows and it's "on". LED light goes away, it's off. Or it may actually convert the light to current but that seems like it would be a pretty weak pulse, converting one LED light in to a pulse. Who knows for sure... Anyway, draw up a diagram, or take a picture and show where you're measuring voltage. There are guys on this forum who know exactly how these things work. Note that there are actually two different wave forms generated. Ideally, you would confirm both.

The 85's you two are comparing are probably from weather stations in the shade at about 6 feet high or more.

If you prop the throttle blade open far enough your ported vacuum becomes full-time intake vacuum. Could screw up some other functions.

You've just re-invented throttle body fuel injection, abbreviated TBI. Hit the Google to learn more about your new old idea.