NewZed

By "idle screw" do you mean the idle air screw, or the idle speed screw? If you added more AFM bypass air that would lean out the mixture. If you just added speed, that won't affect the mixture much. Not clear how warm the engine gets while you're testing. Could be that you switched the coolant sensor plug with the thermotime switch plug. Or the coolant sensor has lost connection. Maybe it's really just very rich, and there is no vacuum leak. Pull one of the small hoses from the intake manifold and see if idle speed goes up or down. If it's already lean from a leak it would probably go down, if it's rich it will probably go up.

Trolling three week old posts to give advice you're not sure about seems a little odd. Post count pumper?

The speedometer determines what type of speedometer drive you need. You need to describe your speedometer. If it's a stock speedometer, people could probably figure it out if they knew what kind of car you're working with. Engines don't require speedometers.

Did you swap the MAP sensor to try and fix the problem or was everything fine until you swapped the sensor?

Web page implies it's been tried and tested. http://www.lojinnovations.com/z32%20kit.htm

Might be something useful here - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/92-turbosupercharger/

I can't really follow what your expectations are but the attached pictures might help show what the CAS output should be. Two of the wires should show a voltage pulse, from zero to probably ~5 volts. One of the wires will pulse rapidly as you turn the distributor because it's seeing 360 slits per revolution, the other will sit at zero, I believe, and only change state six times per revolution. So, if it were me, I might fabricate a narrow blade-shaped probe that I could slip in beside each wire in the connector while it's plugged in, to measure voltage. With the key on and no CAS movement, you'll probably get a 5 (that's your power supply to the CAS from the ECU), and maybe a 5, and a dead one. Stick the probe in the two that aren't constant 5, and spin. I might be way off, but that seems to what the pictures and text say. Added the "And so forth" picture just for the humor.

Going from 15 to 25 is advancing the timing, not retarding. The obvious next step is to confirm that your pulley timing mark is correct. The notch needs to align with zero at top dead center on cylinder #1. Have you adjusted the valves? If you're not filling the cylinders fully (too much valve lash), then advanced timing would probably help. Have you confirmed that valve timing is correct (groove and notch on the timing sprocket and retainer)?. Incorrect valve timing could have a similar effect. Piece-meal is going to take you forever to get that engine running right but at least you're making progress.

Post the youtube video link. Post the link "on here" about the 300zxtt transmission on the Mercedes motor. There.

The Porsche bumper rubber looks good. Don't park where anyone can park behind you though, many people take "bumper" literally and use them as distance measuring aids when parallel parking.

There are so many people out there these days staring at the internet on their tiny phone screens, I just assumed... Rebuilding "while you're at it" could be false economy, the rebuild kits out there aren't fantastic and some seem to have worse new synchros than used Nissan synchros. If it was in good shape you might just replace the main and counter bearings, while you're in there, fix the fork, and put it back together. Just an opinion. You can replace a fork without pulling any gears. Search Hybridz member duragg for a long thread on modifying the transmission for high RPM duty. Lots of detail in that thread.

Are you on a phone? There's a picture in Post #2. Pretty self-explanatory.

Probably the shift fork.

Here's one. I know nothing about the company, the guy, or the cat. http://www.brokenkitty.com/ http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Will it stay running? Idle? You can swap injector plugs to see if you have a wiring problem or an injector problem. Take the injector plugs off, one at a time, and note which cylinders work and which don't. Then swap a plug from a cylinder that works to one that doesn't and see if the dead cylinder comes to life. It won't fix things but it will tell you a little more about what's going on. And check your plug wires for firing order. 153624 counterclockwise.

This is normal.

Tack welds to keep it from spinning, or completely around? You'll understand the gland nut's purpose after you grind the welds to free the nut. BUT, you may actually be looking at the welds that hold the gland nut together itself. Aftermarket nuts typically have a flat hexagonal plate, for wrenching, welded on to a threaded core. Post a picture before you tear things up.

Transmission gear ratios are needed. Without those, the diff ratios don't really mean much. Except for 4th gear, which is generally direct, 1:1. Most people gear their cars for 1st gear, for city driving, so they don't have to ride the clutch to get going, or start in 2nd because 1st is useless. The only reason to focus on 5th gear is if you spend most of your time on the highway.

I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind; it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely, in your thoughts, advanced to the stage of science, whatever the matter may be.Lecture on "Electrical Units of Measurement" (3 May 1883), published in Popular Lectures Vol. I, p. 73 William Thomson (June 26, 1824–December 17, 1907), 1st Baron Kelvin, often referred to simply as Lord Kelvin, was a Scottish physicist.

Looks like the power antenna switch.

Coil resistance determines, along with module resistance, the current through both the coil and the module. More current = more heat. You're already under the factory spec. with the 8202 coil. The 8707 resistance is about half of the 8202. You'll be reducing the odds of E12-80 survival. But there are probably people out there using .355 ohm or lower coils with E12-80 modules. Maybe they'll give some real world results.

If you're signed in, at the bottom right of the Reply window is a "More Reply Options" button. Click that. You'll get a new window with a "Choose File" button below the text window. Click that. Should be figurable from there.

Actually, I screwed up. The injectors are controlled by the ECCS, off of the signal from the CAS. Since you have spark, you're pretty close. You didn't say what engine management system you're using. 81, 82, 83, Z31?

Screwed up suggestion... better two posts down. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

He's on the forum here as fast-datsun: http://forums.hybridz.org/user/1361-fast-datsun/ He doesn't post a lot. Send a message.