NewZed

Could be that you don't have a "toe" problem, but some other problem. If you take your car to a shop and say " I have a toe-in problem, please measure and confirm", many shops will do exactly what you tell them and report what you asked and no more. In this case - "Toe is okay.". Post a picture of the tire at least. Maybe someone will recognize a possibility. Add some numbers, like the what the shop's actually measured. Are they just eye-balling it? Their numbers should be more precise than a piece of string. Here's a decent reference for alignment terms, just to be sure the terminology is correct - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

One of them is labeled 3.55. Probably 3.54, depends on your rounding method. Common ratios are 3.36, 3.54, 3.7 and 3.9. Look for more numbers. Or, mark the flanges, spin, and count.

Describe one of your typical 1000 HP engine so that people have a point of reference. Brand (GM, Ford, Mopar...), model, type of work done, turbo, nitrous, etc. "We run a dyno shop and pop out 1000 HP engines on a regular basis" doesn't tell anyone anything about what you know. You could just be full of BS.

Looks like two long-nose R200's at least, and a good match for AkRev's Supra diff on the odd one. The R200's will fit a Z. The Supra diff looks interesting, considering the work that people do to fabricate CV shafts and mounting hardware for the shortnose R200's anyway. I wonder if the Supra diffs are any easier to find than the 300ZX clutch types. The Supra's a clutch type I assume, since it requires LSD oil. It has short side flanges, which should fit inside the transverse links ( control arms) better than the big VLSD flanges.

I use mine as a convenient portable anvil, or weight. I also used one to dress a grinding disc down to a smaller size.

Can you unwrap them all completely and take more pictures? The first one is different-looking. They all seem to have the general R200 shape.

The key to the majority of brake problems - if you can pump up the brake pressure there's air in the system. Pumping compresses the air bubbles. It may not be the only problem, but it's one that needs to be addressed.

It's shown in the FSM. Labeled too.

Pretty sure that the only "new" part that you need, in addition to the mustache bar, is the brace between the #5's. Which is not shown in your picture (you can just see the edge of it though). It has more curvature to fit around the bigger R200 diff. Rear transverse link mount might be the name. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm This one's bigger than you need but shows the piece. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97134-steel-brace-for-clsd-r200-finned-cover-use-in-s30-zcar/page-5 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98295-steel-brace-for-r200-clsd-finned-cover-in-s30-new-list-and-design/

If they're not turbo cars they'll probably have 3x2 hole axles. Might be easier to just drop the whole sub-frame, drag it out and go to work.

Pretty sure that "dwell" is an ignition coil charging term. If you're running fuel only you wouldn't worry about it. If you're planning to control ignition and asking for that then, somewhere out there on the interweb, and in Hoffman and Cramer's book there's talk of the finger test method. Increase it until the ignition modules get warm, then dial it back a bit. Or there's math yu can do with your coil's specs.

How about adding resistors? Doesn't Megasquirt do both high or low? Why not go low?

This company has been around for a while and seems to have a good reputation. Send them a message. http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/requestform.html

I had an ignition module go bad to where it produced a weak orange spark that wouldn't start the engine without starting fluid. Once it started it seemed fine (although I didn't drive it), but it would not even pop without the fluid. Worth a shot,maybe. Mine was a GM HEI module, not Pertronix. Installed a new module and I was back to normal.

The probably do. Weld the shock absorbers so they don't move and stiffness probably goes up even more. Plus they keep the front end down for drag-racing. We might be starting a trend back to 280Z bumpers, for stiffness! I knew there was a reason to like my old bench bumpers.

I don't see the cracked in two on the old greasy box. The links belwo might give you some ideas on front case/bellhousing swaps. Since the end product is basically in 71B form except for length, you might be fine with just a 71B transmission. The output shaft is the same. You just need to check driveshaft length. Or, since your old one already has the 71B front on the 71C back, it might be an easy swap, Bearing hole, clearance and shifter hole are already done. Weird that Nissan was already doing the swap. Maybe that's where the idea came from. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/transmission.htm

Seems reasonable. Although, the heavier bumpers don't make the body stiffer. They were added for other reasons. Side impact crash improvements can add weight with little affect on stiffness. If boxed seat mounts in a 78 adds stiffness it seems like boxing a 76's seat mounts would be worth doing. Or even the early pre-75 S30's. Makes for interesting discussion. Worth considering.

Take the housing to the hardware store and stick a bunch of M8 x 1.25 bolts through the hole until one looks right. Check the thread pitch and size in the holes on top of the housing. Torque to factory spec.

Make sure it runs well. Eventually can take a long time.

I was just looking for examples. Door and radiator support fit? I don't see the chassis stiffness connection. Not arguing, just trying to learn some new things...

Don't late 74 through 78 have the same chassis/body? Didn't know that Nissan made more improvements in stiffness, unless the mods for the gas tank count. Add improved and cheaper rear wheel brake cylinders for 78. Dual piston versus sliding body cylinders. ~$20 versus ~$50 each.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117693-should-i-buy-this-280zx-for-a-donor-car/

If you look at the cars in person, roll the windows up and down. You'll notice the difference. A small consideration but very aggravating when they break. Especially if the AC doesn't work or doesn't exist. At least, it's a negotiating point.

Of course, you're aware that the 2+2 and the coupe look different, and have different dimensions (wheelbase, length, etc.), and weights. Unless you're comparing two 2+2's. If so, the 78 has better window regulators. The early ones tend to be high maintenance and don't always work well. Rust and interior quality would be concerns. Interior parts are hard to come by.

No advice can be given unless the distance between gas stations and your projected gas mileage is known. And don't forget to factor in the 50 mph limit with the space-saver tire.