NewZed

Seems reasonable. Although, the heavier bumpers don't make the body stiffer. They were added for other reasons. Side impact crash improvements can add weight with little affect on stiffness. If boxed seat mounts in a 78 adds stiffness it seems like boxing a 76's seat mounts would be worth doing. Or even the early pre-75 S30's. Makes for interesting discussion. Worth considering.

Take the housing to the hardware store and stick a bunch of M8 x 1.25 bolts through the hole until one looks right. Check the thread pitch and size in the holes on top of the housing. Torque to factory spec.

Make sure it runs well. Eventually can take a long time.

I was just looking for examples. Door and radiator support fit? I don't see the chassis stiffness connection. Not arguing, just trying to learn some new things...

Don't late 74 through 78 have the same chassis/body? Didn't know that Nissan made more improvements in stiffness, unless the mods for the gas tank count. Add improved and cheaper rear wheel brake cylinders for 78. Dual piston versus sliding body cylinders. ~$20 versus ~$50 each.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117693-should-i-buy-this-280zx-for-a-donor-car/

If you look at the cars in person, roll the windows up and down. You'll notice the difference. A small consideration but very aggravating when they break. Especially if the AC doesn't work or doesn't exist. At least, it's a negotiating point.

Of course, you're aware that the 2+2 and the coupe look different, and have different dimensions (wheelbase, length, etc.), and weights. Unless you're comparing two 2+2's. If so, the 78 has better window regulators. The early ones tend to be high maintenance and don't always work well. Rust and interior quality would be concerns. Interior parts are hard to come by.

No advice can be given unless the distance between gas stations and your projected gas mileage is known. And don't forget to factor in the 50 mph limit with the space-saver tire.

Isn't offset more important than size? (Talking about rims...)

The dealer might have replacements. For those that need a few extra tries. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z31-1984-1989/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-2317_2318_2391_2410.html http://www.courtesyparts.com/38225-circlip-side-gear-300zx-z31-1984-1989-p-148121.html

It does sound pretty good. Don't overlook the low oil pressure these engines tend to get at low RPM. Running a low idle speed to get the lopey cam sound could be bad for the cam itself. The aftermarket cams seem to have issues often.

You might think twice about Aeromotive. They make cool race stuff, but their regulators all leak down as soon as the pump turns off. Makes for many extra turns of the engine waiting for the rail to re-pressurize. They're not really good for daily drivers. Edit - since I'm here, might as well say you should still pinch the return line, it could still be the pump. Unless you're really just itching to get a new regulator. And, by the way, the stock FPR's are 1:1. Not clear why that's spelled out. Anyway, good luck with it.

A "short" will create smoke and sparks and heat and drain the battery. A break in the circuit will cause nothing. Don't forget that electricity has to get back to where it came from to make things happen. The ground circuit is just as important as the supply circuit. I don't know the early Z's well, but most cars use relays to supply power to the various sub-harnesses. Find the various relays and make sure they're working correctly. Some relays ground through the case, so need to be mounted to work right. atlanticz has a nice wiring diagram. You'll need a computer, or a good eye on a phone. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf

Just noticed that it has the coveted 2305 mm wheelbase. And, a trailer.

Doesn't the VIN tell the whole story? It's a big number. Maybe the seller got sold a story and is paying it forward. You have to admire the gall though. $35,000 on Craigslist. It makes you laugh a little. He typed in twice so it's not a typo.

The axles seem to be the weak link. There are more stories of broken axles than broken diffs around the Z interweb world. If you're going to drift with over-inflated slippery tires then the diff's probably not a concern, except that you'll want LSD. If you're going to drag race, then the hooking is the diff killer. The road racers like the LSD for drive out of the corners. It comes down to what you're planning to do with it. A horsepower number is just a number. To the OP, don't forget that your 72 4 speed has a 3.592 first gear and no 5th. The 3.9 was typically used with a 3.062 1st and a 5th.

The standard test is to pinch the return line. If pressure goes up, it's the FPR, no change it's the supply before the FPR. Pump, filter, fuel lines, strainer, suction side leaks allowing air in, dirty tank...all that.

You might summarize the video in words. 3:47 is a long time. Curious, you can see injector duty cycle right? What does it do? Is there lots left? Then there's always the old basic of fuel pressure. Might not be an MS tuning issue at all, just the typical Z fuel supply problem. The intermittent fuel cut, if you mean engine loses fuel supply for no apparent reason, would fit the crud-in-the-tank scenario.

Try BE-31. It will get you to the last connector.

Sorry, I meant that they have a web site, not 280Z lowering springs. Shocks for both S30's, springs for early S30's only, apparently. The springs are Vogtland, the shocks are Stagg. I'll repost if I get a reply to my messages.

I sent both brandcarparts and Stagg queries on 280Z lowering springs. They don't show as available. Maybe Vogtland has a web site. Edit - they do, but nothing comes up on their search engine, even for 240Z. Maybe too new. I suched and got the following message - " Kein Eregebniss für Ihre Eingabe gefunden

This link might help. He used a big hammer on the inside CV, but had tripod on the outside. Can't see the circlip in your picture so can't tell if it's the square-edged type or the rounded, bent wire type. The round ones are meant to compress to fit through the various holes they're used on, then snap open on the other side. Might give you some ideas anyway. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72805-using-pathfinder-and-zxt-axles-to-install-30-spline-nismo-lsd-kit-56k/?&p=692101&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=692101

Thanks for that. I'm no expert on MS or electronics in general but I do know that transistors and their assemblies of diodes, capacitors and resistors are weird beasts. Some of them are not "on" or active unless powered up. So trying to diagnose your board by measuring continuity across unknown circuits without the power is probably not the way to do it. There's probably a method out there somewhere for troubleshooting or verifying a wasted spark ignition setup.

Just curious on the whole ordering from DIY process, but did they send any paperwork, like a schematic or a list, of what they produced? Seems like you shouldn't have to guess on these things. They wouldn't send a mystery board.