NewZed

Isn't offset more important than size? (Talking about rims...)

The dealer might have replacements. For those that need a few extra tries. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z31-1984-1989/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-2317_2318_2391_2410.html http://www.courtesyparts.com/38225-circlip-side-gear-300zx-z31-1984-1989-p-148121.html

It does sound pretty good. Don't overlook the low oil pressure these engines tend to get at low RPM. Running a low idle speed to get the lopey cam sound could be bad for the cam itself. The aftermarket cams seem to have issues often.

You might think twice about Aeromotive. They make cool race stuff, but their regulators all leak down as soon as the pump turns off. Makes for many extra turns of the engine waiting for the rail to re-pressurize. They're not really good for daily drivers. Edit - since I'm here, might as well say you should still pinch the return line, it could still be the pump. Unless you're really just itching to get a new regulator. And, by the way, the stock FPR's are 1:1. Not clear why that's spelled out. Anyway, good luck with it.

A "short" will create smoke and sparks and heat and drain the battery. A break in the circuit will cause nothing. Don't forget that electricity has to get back to where it came from to make things happen. The ground circuit is just as important as the supply circuit. I don't know the early Z's well, but most cars use relays to supply power to the various sub-harnesses. Find the various relays and make sure they're working correctly. Some relays ground through the case, so need to be mounted to work right. atlanticz has a nice wiring diagram. You'll need a computer, or a good eye on a phone. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf

Just noticed that it has the coveted 2305 mm wheelbase. And, a trailer.

Doesn't the VIN tell the whole story? It's a big number. Maybe the seller got sold a story and is paying it forward. You have to admire the gall though. $35,000 on Craigslist. It makes you laugh a little. He typed in twice so it's not a typo.

The axles seem to be the weak link. There are more stories of broken axles than broken diffs around the Z interweb world. If you're going to drift with over-inflated slippery tires then the diff's probably not a concern, except that you'll want LSD. If you're going to drag race, then the hooking is the diff killer. The road racers like the LSD for drive out of the corners. It comes down to what you're planning to do with it. A horsepower number is just a number. To the OP, don't forget that your 72 4 speed has a 3.592 first gear and no 5th. The 3.9 was typically used with a 3.062 1st and a 5th.

The standard test is to pinch the return line. If pressure goes up, it's the FPR, no change it's the supply before the FPR. Pump, filter, fuel lines, strainer, suction side leaks allowing air in, dirty tank...all that.

You might summarize the video in words. 3:47 is a long time. Curious, you can see injector duty cycle right? What does it do? Is there lots left? Then there's always the old basic of fuel pressure. Might not be an MS tuning issue at all, just the typical Z fuel supply problem. The intermittent fuel cut, if you mean engine loses fuel supply for no apparent reason, would fit the crud-in-the-tank scenario.

Try BE-31. It will get you to the last connector.

Sorry, I meant that they have a web site, not 280Z lowering springs. Shocks for both S30's, springs for early S30's only, apparently. The springs are Vogtland, the shocks are Stagg. I'll repost if I get a reply to my messages.

I sent both brandcarparts and Stagg queries on 280Z lowering springs. They don't show as available. Maybe Vogtland has a web site. Edit - they do, but nothing comes up on their search engine, even for 240Z. Maybe too new. I suched and got the following message - " Kein Eregebniss für Ihre Eingabe gefunden

This link might help. He used a big hammer on the inside CV, but had tripod on the outside. Can't see the circlip in your picture so can't tell if it's the square-edged type or the rounded, bent wire type. The round ones are meant to compress to fit through the various holes they're used on, then snap open on the other side. Might give you some ideas anyway. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72805-using-pathfinder-and-zxt-axles-to-install-30-spline-nismo-lsd-kit-56k/?&p=692101&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=692101

Thanks for that. I'm no expert on MS or electronics in general but I do know that transistors and their assemblies of diodes, capacitors and resistors are weird beasts. Some of them are not "on" or active unless powered up. So trying to diagnose your board by measuring continuity across unknown circuits without the power is probably not the way to do it. There's probably a method out there somewhere for troubleshooting or verifying a wasted spark ignition setup.

Just curious on the whole ordering from DIY process, but did they send any paperwork, like a schematic or a list, of what they produced? Seems like you shouldn't have to guess on these things. They wouldn't send a mystery board.

Saw them on the interweb a week or two ago (eBay) and wondered about them . Very inexpensive. Thanks for the opinion on quality. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-SHOCKS-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-1975-1978-/141117066404?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item20db3b8ca4&vxp=mtr Here's the whole deal for the early S30's - http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-70-to-74-1-2/121306175629?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D21398%26meid%3D6133792028790729127%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9407%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D141117066404&rt=nc I don't see springs for the 280Z's. Maybe later. They show two different shocks for front left and front right, for the 280Z. Probably a typo. http://staggshocks.com/Stagg%20AG/Stagg%20AG%2075-78%20Nissan%20280Z.html But you can't order from the web site anyway, apparently.

I know little about tuning Megasquirt, the 200 RPM just jumped out at me. By the way, I think that only people with Megasquirt or the right program can read your file. Might be limiting your audience. I don't have a program for MSQ files. I saw your thread on the new trigger. Pretty ingenious, I did something similar with an LED and a BA9 light socket (not really so difficult) . But the common cheap LEDs may not hold up to automotive use, even if yours is reading correctly now. I fried one with a nine volt battery and no resistor, it smelled like melted plastic. The lens was made of epoxy. The diode material is one piece of the package, the lens material is another.

He has a GM engine with a Nissan sender, opposite to the usual problem. So, the Nissan sender is BSPT, and the block is NPT. Seems like some thread sealant would do the job. Loctite makes some. http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/thread-sealant-thread-sealing-loctite-anaerobics-14405.htm I'd use PTFE tape myself, but that makes many nervous who might lose track of the little thready tape pieces when they take things apart.

I'm not positive but I think that 200 RPM is about impossible unless you have a massive flywheel to keep things spinning. If the engine runs but shows 200 RPM, I would think that there's a problem with your tach signal or a setting is wrong. Is the 200 on the car's tach or Megasquirt's and do they match? Do you have some other way to measure RPM? Might be a clue. Just a guess. I can't imagine a stock L6 idling at 200 RPM, but I could be wrong.

Clean the connections to your EFI harness. And the ignition system. The ignition module might be failing also, with a weak spark, which would be weaker at low voltage during starting.

Do you have the dimensions? There was thread not too long ago about replacing the bushing in the 71B transmission. A non-Nissan replacement was found that would work, with a little fine-tuning.

The PO created a solid diff mount when he welded your old one (Post 3). You have a solid steel path from the gears to the cabin. Get an RT style mount, with the Energy Suspension urethane and the whine noise will drop dramatically. You'll need another crossmember, even if you go back to stock. They're not too hard to find.

Here's a local (to me) CL listing - http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/4376551715.html

It's easy. Just get good quality FI-rated hose. Make sure the barbs are smooth and burr-free so you don't damage the inner lining, dip the hose end in gasoline and press it on by hand. There are write-ups with pictures out there on the interweb. Just search injector hose replacement. It's even described in the FSM, believe it or not. It's a repair item. Page EF-63 and -64 in the 1976 manual. You can use a knife to cut the rubber off, instead of a soldering iron, if you're very careful.