NewZed

Pretty sure that "dwell" is an ignition coil charging term. If you're running fuel only you wouldn't worry about it. If you're planning to control ignition and asking for that then, somewhere out there on the interweb, and in Hoffman and Cramer's book there's talk of the finger test method. Increase it until the ignition modules get warm, then dial it back a bit. Or there's math yu can do with your coil's specs.

How about adding resistors? Doesn't Megasquirt do both high or low? Why not go low?

This company has been around for a while and seems to have a good reputation. Send them a message. http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/requestform.html

I had an ignition module go bad to where it produced a weak orange spark that wouldn't start the engine without starting fluid. Once it started it seemed fine (although I didn't drive it), but it would not even pop without the fluid. Worth a shot,maybe. Mine was a GM HEI module, not Pertronix. Installed a new module and I was back to normal.

The probably do. Weld the shock absorbers so they don't move and stiffness probably goes up even more. Plus they keep the front end down for drag-racing. We might be starting a trend back to 280Z bumpers, for stiffness! I knew there was a reason to like my old bench bumpers.

I don't see the cracked in two on the old greasy box. The links belwo might give you some ideas on front case/bellhousing swaps. Since the end product is basically in 71B form except for length, you might be fine with just a 71B transmission. The output shaft is the same. You just need to check driveshaft length. Or, since your old one already has the 71B front on the 71C back, it might be an easy swap, Bearing hole, clearance and shifter hole are already done. Weird that Nissan was already doing the swap. Maybe that's where the idea came from. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/transmission.htm

Seems reasonable. Although, the heavier bumpers don't make the body stiffer. They were added for other reasons. Side impact crash improvements can add weight with little affect on stiffness. If boxed seat mounts in a 78 adds stiffness it seems like boxing a 76's seat mounts would be worth doing. Or even the early pre-75 S30's. Makes for interesting discussion. Worth considering.

Take the housing to the hardware store and stick a bunch of M8 x 1.25 bolts through the hole until one looks right. Check the thread pitch and size in the holes on top of the housing. Torque to factory spec.

Make sure it runs well. Eventually can take a long time.

I was just looking for examples. Door and radiator support fit? I don't see the chassis stiffness connection. Not arguing, just trying to learn some new things...

Don't late 74 through 78 have the same chassis/body? Didn't know that Nissan made more improvements in stiffness, unless the mods for the gas tank count. Add improved and cheaper rear wheel brake cylinders for 78. Dual piston versus sliding body cylinders. ~$20 versus ~$50 each.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117693-should-i-buy-this-280zx-for-a-donor-car/

If you look at the cars in person, roll the windows up and down. You'll notice the difference. A small consideration but very aggravating when they break. Especially if the AC doesn't work or doesn't exist. At least, it's a negotiating point.

Of course, you're aware that the 2+2 and the coupe look different, and have different dimensions (wheelbase, length, etc.), and weights. Unless you're comparing two 2+2's. If so, the 78 has better window regulators. The early ones tend to be high maintenance and don't always work well. Rust and interior quality would be concerns. Interior parts are hard to come by.

No advice can be given unless the distance between gas stations and your projected gas mileage is known. And don't forget to factor in the 50 mph limit with the space-saver tire.

Isn't offset more important than size? (Talking about rims...)

The dealer might have replacements. For those that need a few extra tries. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z31-1984-1989/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-2317_2318_2391_2410.html http://www.courtesyparts.com/38225-circlip-side-gear-300zx-z31-1984-1989-p-148121.html

It does sound pretty good. Don't overlook the low oil pressure these engines tend to get at low RPM. Running a low idle speed to get the lopey cam sound could be bad for the cam itself. The aftermarket cams seem to have issues often.

You might think twice about Aeromotive. They make cool race stuff, but their regulators all leak down as soon as the pump turns off. Makes for many extra turns of the engine waiting for the rail to re-pressurize. They're not really good for daily drivers. Edit - since I'm here, might as well say you should still pinch the return line, it could still be the pump. Unless you're really just itching to get a new regulator. And, by the way, the stock FPR's are 1:1. Not clear why that's spelled out. Anyway, good luck with it.

A "short" will create smoke and sparks and heat and drain the battery. A break in the circuit will cause nothing. Don't forget that electricity has to get back to where it came from to make things happen. The ground circuit is just as important as the supply circuit. I don't know the early Z's well, but most cars use relays to supply power to the various sub-harnesses. Find the various relays and make sure they're working correctly. Some relays ground through the case, so need to be mounted to work right. atlanticz has a nice wiring diagram. You'll need a computer, or a good eye on a phone. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf

Just noticed that it has the coveted 2305 mm wheelbase. And, a trailer.

Doesn't the VIN tell the whole story? It's a big number. Maybe the seller got sold a story and is paying it forward. You have to admire the gall though. $35,000 on Craigslist. It makes you laugh a little. He typed in twice so it's not a typo.

The axles seem to be the weak link. There are more stories of broken axles than broken diffs around the Z interweb world. If you're going to drift with over-inflated slippery tires then the diff's probably not a concern, except that you'll want LSD. If you're going to drag race, then the hooking is the diff killer. The road racers like the LSD for drive out of the corners. It comes down to what you're planning to do with it. A horsepower number is just a number. To the OP, don't forget that your 72 4 speed has a 3.592 first gear and no 5th. The 3.9 was typically used with a 3.062 1st and a 5th.

The standard test is to pinch the return line. If pressure goes up, it's the FPR, no change it's the supply before the FPR. Pump, filter, fuel lines, strainer, suction side leaks allowing air in, dirty tank...all that.

You might summarize the video in words. 3:47 is a long time. Curious, you can see injector duty cycle right? What does it do? Is there lots left? Then there's always the old basic of fuel pressure. Might not be an MS tuning issue at all, just the typical Z fuel supply problem. The intermittent fuel cut, if you mean engine loses fuel supply for no apparent reason, would fit the crud-in-the-tank scenario.