NewZed

For the money spent already, it probably would have been worthwhile to modify a valve cover with a plexiglass window to see what's happening while running. Might still be. Cold running only of course.

I had a similar problem with the ignition switch. I just took a pair of pliers and twisted/bent the actuating rod so that it hit Start before it ran out of twist. The electrical component was fine. I tried two (had a spare) before I figured out what was happening. You can test the electrical piece with a flat blade screwdriver. Actually, if you wanted a fail-safe you could let the electrical part hang, carry a screwdriver, and keep the key for show until you get it fixed.

Are you replacing the whole switch (with key) or just the electrical part? The mechanical pieces can wear to where it won't turn the electrical switch far enough to make contact with the starter circuit. You can bend the rod from the key part to the electrical part to get more twist if that's the case.

Does anyone know how to tell for sure if a wrist pin is bad? I thought I had a timing chain noise but did some more inspecting and find that removing the #1 injector plug removes the noise. Loose wrist pin is the only thing that seems to fit (Honsowetz Rebuild book as my source), aside from possibly a small exhaust or head gasket leak. The engine (used, probably high mileage) has a light thumping noise that goes away after 4-6 thumps when started in the morning which is apparently a sign of a worn bearing. The inside of the engine had much sludge, which is slowly washing away with detergent oil usage, so it's probably had a hard life. But it runs great, except for the irritating ticking noise. Lash is adjusted, oil level right. Any insights on how long you can run with a bad wrist pin, and what happens when it gets too bad (does something break or does it just get super noisy?) would also be appreciated. Odd topic and I won't be surprised if it's just another one of my DOA threads.

In summary, you've purchased a Z with an early 240Z engine. Pretty basic. For performance, transplanting an L28 would probably be quickest, cheapest and easiest. You haven't said what year Z you have. I'll guess 260Z since you assumed it was an L26. Apparently the E31 is "uncommon and desirable" to some though. http://www.xenons30.com/Heads.html

I was just pointing out, indirectly, that transmitting 60 ft-lbs of torque through the urethane flange seems unlikely. There's something weird going on with your assembly of parts if the outer nuts are loosening, self-locking or not, if they're tightened to 60 ft-lbs.. The urethane might get squished and squeak but it seems unlikely to transmit that kind of torque.

Regarding low oil flow at idle - it might be worhwhile to bump the idle speed up semi-permanently, until you get some miles on the cam, or even permanently. A couple hundred RPM might make the difference in flow with no real adverse effects except you'd lose some of the cammy/lopey idle sound.

What's it look like?

Seems like you are mixing up adjusting timing with adjusting rotor position (phasing, I think some call it). Timing is just when the coil discharges. This is adjusted with the 81 CAS by moving the sensor at the pulley. Described on EF-46. When the spark happens it will then jump to the closest terminal to the rotor tip. If the rotor is not closest to the #1 position terminal, the spark will jump to the one in front or behind. #4 or #5. #1 will then get its spark when #4 or #5 should have got theirs. So when you rotate the distributor on your 81 crank-mounted CAS all you're doing is moving the point at which the terminal gets its spark. If you move it too far, the "timing" will be way off, like a whole cylinder's worth. Phase the rotor position to #1 using distributor rotation and/or plug wire position, then adjust the CAS at the pulley to set timing.

Flooded?

I pulled a combined EFI/fuel pump relay from a 78 parts car that I had, that was the same as my 76's. I think that Nissan may have used the same combined relay in 78, but not all of its functions. They all have JECS part numbers on them. Compare those. By the way, they don't go bad often, probably because they're in the dryest location of all of the relays.

Use an ohm-meter to check the pinout to the Microtech ECU plug, and the Microtech wiring diagram to determine what should be there. Why guess?

Some people just don't have that kind of money. I know I don't. Or they need something to get them by until they get the extra funds. If I was trying to fix a mess like that, in the garage on the weekends, I might consider using a good strut brace to locate the tops of the struts with the new fabricated pieces underneath. You still need to do some other locating work but it might work as a good jig to hold things together. The chassis dimensions are in the Body chapter of the FSM.

I've had a persistent ticking noise from my stock L6 that I can't get rid of. I've found that tweaking the chain guide (with a screwdriver from the top) will affect the noise but won't get rid of it. It's most noticeable as I idle by parked cars with the window open. Seems to disappear at higher RPM. On the Kameari site they mention "heat seizing" chain links. Has anyone ever seen a seized or balky timing chain link? Wondering if I have a tight one that is causing the noise, or if my chain guides are just worn out. The chain itself seems to be within normal stretch range. http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_TimingChain.php Could someone who's installed a new timing chain share how tight the chain should be with nothing moving? I have quite a bit of play in the tight side of the chain if I turn the camshaft forward. The spring in the tensioner isn't taking up the slack, but I don't know how much slack it should take. I might just have a worn chain slapping around, even though timing is right. Thanks for any insights.

On coatings. Found some stuff on the Kameari site. Manganese phosphate, manganese phosphoric acid. Seems to be typically used for corrosion-proofing, but Kameari is touting it for wear. Seems like some marketing guys might have their hands in here, but still interesting. http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_SuperDragCamshaft.php http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_TimingChain.php

You need to measure the housing (outer tube), not the shaft. The gland nut locates and clamps the outer shock tube in to the strut tube. Measure at the top, the part that fits inside the gland nut.

Remove the hose that supplies the carbs, stick the end in a container and turn the engine over.

Honsowetz talks about enlarging the oil jet to 0.125" on page 15 of his "How to Modify..." book. Says it will help with a high profile cam, but should only be done if it won't deprive the bottom end oil supply. Doesn't really say how to tell if the bottom end supply is affected though.

With a voltmeter, you would have exactly the same confusion on why your engine doesn't want to start, assuming an understanding of how both meters work. The advantage of the voltmeter is it tells you if the alternator is putting out too much voltage. Otherwise, the two meters show the same thing if you know how to interpret them.

It will be an excellent learning experience. Do it.

I'm just trying to help you get some results. If you can't edit the title, you might as well start a new thread. Try an edit first.

The one spark means that your coil works and is getting power. The coil is supposed to spark when the ignitor breaks the coil primary circuit when the ECU tells it to when the CAS tells the ECU it's time. The problem is in the CAS, ECU or ignitor. You could easily have the same problem with an 82 distributor. There are test procedures in the 81 Turbo Supplement or the 82 and 83 FSM, Engine Fuel chapters. Takes some reading. Seems to be a very common problem, you should be able to find many many threads on this forum about it.

Take better pictures and put a better title on your thread. There are billions of threads that say "help me" out there on the interweb.

I'm always amazed at the expertise of the illustrators for the FSM's. Wish I could draw like them. You'll need to mentally twist your orientation. It only hurts a little bit. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/