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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. The 1975 280Z propeller shaft and R200 is the one with the odd bolt pattern and bolt sizes. Avoid 1975. And the Z31 has its own bolt pattern also, as you recalled. I think that the 240 shaft itself might be of smaller diameter than a 280Z shaft. But the 240Z shafts have replaceable u-joints so it's easier to do a yoke swap, if you find a yoke with internal clips. The 280Z shafts take extra machine work to get that done since they have staked u-joints. I think that the 260Z might also have staked joints. And, of course, the early 240Z's with the forward mounted diffs have the 1 1/2" shorter propeller shafts. Lots of ways to get stuck.
  2. Who knows. The parts have a lot of flash to them, they look nice, but no results posted or shown. Just words, saying that it's stronger. A little story about the 10 second Z car that used them would be neat. A video would be cool. Why does he sell aluminum and steel but just show the steel parts mounted? Edit - I guess he shows both. Just an odd assortment of upside down pictures. Hard to tell what's going on. Questions... If the bushings are clamped down with metal contact at the bolt and the nut the noise will transmit through the metal. Hard to tell. Hopefully somebody will try one and see what happens. I'm just an internet critic.
  3. On the edges, but they thinned it out for some reason. Weight savings? Still a lot of leverage on those outer mounting points. Why didn't he CNC it all of one piece? And look at how little material there is around the outer mounting bolts. You can easily imagine that whole plate tearing right off of those four outer bolts. Hard to stop once you get going. It's just not "substantial" enough. And, last "pick" - it looks like a solid mount. So it's going to be noisy. Easier to visualize the diff nose lifting with the picture right side up.
  4. It is just four small bolts under tension pulling on a thin plate of aluminum, isn't it? And kind of "levery" on the outboard mounting points. You can almost see the metal fatiguing around those outer bolts. The concept seems to have potential. It's essentially a variation of the Arisona Z Car setup, that doesn't seem to be available anymore. Which is essentially a variation of the welded cradle in your big thread. So close...
  5. I can smell the mice just looking at that picture. Good luck. Check out the current rear end discussion.
  6. T3 seems to have two different mounts available. The old "bad" kind and a new one. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-r200-short-nose-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-power-cradle-short-nose-r200r230-and-ford-88
  7. You're covering a really wide range here. Including wheel hubs with your discussion of differentials. Talking about up to 450 ft-lbs of torque. That is a huge amount of torque. The R180 won't handle that if you get sticky tires and try to use it. The Ford diff setup is more appropriate for big torque but is a fairly extensive amount of work. As Ben280 says, it depends.
  8. Even my $80 Android phone has a camera.
  9. Thanks for the observation? It works today. Maybe it's the Heisenberg effect. If you had tried earlier maybe you would have got the same message. Who knows...
  10. Might as well look at the spark plugs when you take them out for the pressure measurement.
  11. You can try it yourself by using the share function in the upper right corner then using CTRL V or "Paste" into your reply.
  12. Here is the link to the web error page. I had to paste it then use "display as a link instead". https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131711-unable-to-embed-links-only-plain-text/?tab=comments&failedReply=1
  13. I will paste the link to your post and see if I can copy the result. I've copied it and am using CTRL V. It will show the image of the post, but won't accept when I hit "Submit Reply". So, it didn't work. I'll post the error message in my next post. It's what showed up after I hit "Submit Reply". I had to delete the embedded link to get this one to come up. Here is the image of what I attempted to do.
  14. Could be a cracked head. Check your spark plugs. They'll be a clue.
  15. I've pasted links in to posts and they automatically embed but the site will not accept the post unless I convert it to a plain text link. And the error messages have been different and unclear. I would guess that people have just quit inserting links or given up on posting links, because of this issue.
  16. 240Z's have 25 splines, 280Z's have 27. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69569-240z-vs-280z-stub-axle-strength/
  17. Don't have anything worthwhile to add but I can't remember if you have a 240Z or a 280Z. When I first got my 76 280Z I was surprised at how stiff the unibody was. Before I knew better I lifted from the back of the front frame rail and could get the whole side of the car up with no apparent flexing. I was used to old chevys that creaked and groaned and bent as you lifted them. The difference between the 240 and 280 bodies is often a topic of discussion.
  18. The O2 sensor signal is used by the system to adjust the open-time of the injectors. Impedance will not have an effect on the feedback signal. No offense to you guys but you should study up on how EFI systems use the O2 sensor signal. It's called "closed loop" control. It's still not clear how long people are waiting before they decide something is wrong. You need to let the system stabilize. Efforts to fix things before the system is stable just causes continued instability. Still, both FAST and zcardepot are selling kits with poor instructions and explanation of how things work. I wouldn't buy one for that reason alone. The FAST site is full of hype with very little support. Their forum function doesn't even work. I think that they're just milking the market until they die. http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/#technical-faqs-reference-articles.85
  19. I found it. I was more talkative back then. Some good comments from other members though. Having problems posting, this is a test. The site would only take the lin, as a link, not embedded. Weird. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116305-torsional-rigidity-testing-280z/
  20. I think that they're showing "boxed" body components. Integral reinforcement as you said. Like the rocker panels are one of the most important structural elements of the unibody. People often overlook that area when dealing with rust. The "frame rails" are just added stiffeners. They'll replace the stiffeners and leave the rusted out rocker panels. So, when looking at the cowl, or any body area, look for those reinforced areas. But, I'm not a structural or automotive engineer, so don't put too much weight in to my words. Somebody had a thread on the site where they really went deep in to how to reinforce the body. I think that they even built a framework to load the frame and measure deflection. It might be in an FAQ area, or might be found by a search.
  21. Here's the basic steel box that everything else is bolted on to. Might give you some ideas.
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