NewZed

Squirt the fluid directly in to the intake manifold. If the AFM vane is not opening the fluid won't get through. You might just have a big vacuum leak somewhere. Moving the AFM won't help that. Edit - actually it might, but still... Don't forget to look for rags or mice nests in the J-pipe if you got the parts from a car that has been sitting.

There's a couple of long threads on classiczcars.com about how the new aftermarket fuel pumps are bad right out of the box. Poor seals. They don't pump well and they don't seal when they're off. Which pump did you get? It's a problem and there doesn't seem to be a brand that is guaranteed to work. Classiczcars is down right now but when it comes back I'll see if I can find a link. One of the guys really went deep in to the guts of the pumps and has found solutions. zKars, I think.

Run through the typical NA EFI checks. Could be a fusible link, or even a ground problem. Voltage and grounds are the key. Here's a reference from your past. It ran before, so it should run again. Good luck. Try starting fluid if you just want to hear it for a short burst. That will confirm spark and timing, then you can focus on the injector power and control.

You are way behind the curve on this swap. There is a ton of information about it on the site. The NA EFI system is set up for NA injectors. Turbo injectors will squirt too much fuel. Good luck. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/94-engine-components/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Have you checked the spark plugs? Might be flooding. The turbo injectors are 265 CC, the NA are 188 CC. You're dumping 40% more fuel in than the engine needs.

3.5 is the early 240Z with a 3.36 R180 (I think). Here's your 75 four speed.

It's not the R200 itself. It's the 1975 model R200. I think that 1975 was the first year for the R200, for the Z cars for sure, and for some reason Nissan changed the pinion flange pattern the very next year and kept it that way for many years. So 1975 is an oddball. I can't explain why, but here's a page that shows the variation and another that shows which ones are interchangeable. The link you posted was for an R180. I don't think that you have an R180 in your car. R180's were used for automatic transmission cars. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22e01/22-1003 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic22e01

The later ZX's matched the 3.062 1st with the 3.9. The 280Z 5 speed cars and early ZX's, used a 3.321 and a 3.54 rear. Your 75 4 speed would have a 3.54. 79 ZX's have a wide range of diff ratios, based on the model and the transmission. Everything from 3.36 to 3.9. 79 is an odd year for options. Good luck. Don't forget the funky diff pattern on your 75.

Compare 1st gear ratios also, to see if 1st gear will even be usable. Also, 1975 has an odd flange bolt size and pattern on the diff and propeller shaft. So, if you get a different diff you'll need the propeller shaft flange also. And the 240SX is not a direct swap, in case you didn't know. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I'm not aware of any "bolt-in" CV axle swaps. They all require welding or hub axle and flange swaps. Plus the fact that most CV axles are too long unless you go with the Porsche 930 style. Which also, apparently, have their own issues of being loose themselves, after wearing out quickly. There might be new stuff out there. But the CV swap problems and adventures have been a constant source of entertainment over the years. No offense to those with the problems (but thanks for the stories). Good luck. Hope it's just u-joints. Get high quality u-joints, the cheap ones can be already loose. Datsun u-joints are surprisingly tight, with their precision thickness retaining clips and everything. There are six total, of course, in the drive train. So any looseness adds up.

Have you checked them, by eye, while prying on them? Noise during shifting could be a lot of things. p.s. "going CV" isn't as easy as it sounds. Expensive too.

The pictures are gone but you can get an idea of what's possible.

Wouldn't these guys know? There aren't that many variations. https://www.rhdjapan.com/contacts/

Actually, that fills out the thread. I was looking for a good image of that but didn't find one. You can see what should have power (continuity from the B terminal) at each position and test those. p.s.I think that the R, IG, S, B, and A are molded or printed on the back of the switch.

I'd try to sell them to Dave at ArizonaZcar. He builds strokers. I think he grinds his own but might be interested. DatsunSpirit also. http://datsunspirit.net/spl-series/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/index.html http://www.arizonazcar.com/about.html

Disassemble the electrical switch from the mechanical portion and see if it works correctly. Maybe the electrical portion is over-rotating. You're describing two things happening that can't both be correct. The swatch tested "good", but it allowed power through at Lock. Here's the 5 contact diagram from 1976.

You described a whole bunch of stuff. It's not clear where on the "B/W" wire you measured. And there's a lot of B/W wires in the car. If you're not getting power through the switch with the key in the Lock position then the power on the B/W wire is coming from a short or some other weird wiring thing. You said it all tested "good" which means that there was no continuity from the power wire through the switch with the key at Lock. Disconnect the switch entirely and put it all back together. If you still get power on the B/W wire then the Lock position on the switch is irrelevant. Forget about the switch and keep searching.

Check the wires at the back of the ignition switch. There's only four. Sounds like the electrical portion of the switch is worn out and shorting. You can get replacements. There's a screw that you have to drill or cut the head off of. Anti-theft measure.

People will probably compare what you're offering to the typical piece by piece mods that are done, on the way up to a cage. Here is a thread that covers much of those mods. Might get more response if you break your package up in to sub-kits. More affordable and people can choose between the curvy stuff and the straight line power stuff. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49036-suspension-modification-faq/

Robbo got a response from Ohm through personal Facebook, 8/26 apparently, thread linked above. Might be worth a shot. Maybe point him to this thread, so he can explain. If he's buried with work he might not really be aware of how bad things look, at least on this forum.

Here's some Z numbers, for aluminum. The transmission comes in to play also. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

Can't tell if you tried all of the different options after it finally quit starting or after the starting, running, then dying. But the starting, running, then dying suggests that something is overheating. Coils can overheat and go open circuit, and I think that the MSD boxes put more load on the coil with the multiple sparks. Anyway, try a new coil. I didn't see that in your list. Edit - actually, use a meter and check the coil's properties if you have one. But, even then, it might be overheating as soon as it sees current. A coil swap is probably worthwhile.

Might as well tie these threads together.

Thanks. Can you explain how the flat T3 bar sits farther back than the factory dog bone? Can't tell from the pictures. You didn't shave any fins? The cover fins are as they were on the turbo or 240SX? Just trying to understand. It's not clear, from one picture. You can see from the drawings that a straight line across those control arm brackets bisects where the fins would be. Unless there's no fins higher up. This is one of those situations where if the companies would just show their parts fully installed they'd probably make more sales. Why show half of an assembly.