NewZed

How about a strap wrench?

Very nice. Your other post says 72 240Z. Is the engine the original L24, modified, or is it an L28ET swap? Stock drivetrain, R180, or also modded? That's a lot of torque for the R180. Must be the Sniper or Terminator engine management, right? There's several. https://www.holley.com/brands/holley_efi/

They are about impossible to find. If you're using Megasquirt and hoping to use the L28ET distributor with it you're probably better off to use a different ignition triggering system.

Some of what you need might be here - https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ A couple more links on the left of the page.

Just saw jonbill's reply. This is just a follow-on, below, that I was writing. Seems like an interesting motor. The other thing people like about the P90 is that it has the square exhaust ports without liners. The block has probably been bored or modified to allow the bigger valves to miss the sides of the cylinder wall. And there is a very common Timesert modification that people do to get rid of the hydraulic pivots. They're not actually "lifters". The P90 with flat top pistons would be similar to a ZX engine except that the swept volume would be less if it hasn't been bored much and still has the L24 crankshaft. Probably about 8:1, but hard to say for sure. Check the bottom of the P90A letters to see if the head has been shaved. That would up the CR somewhat. There are engine calculators out there too that you can play with.

It only gets power when the engine is running.

The coil and resistor would be getting hot because they have current flowing through them. That would be because there is a short circuit on the wiring after the coil negative terminal. Looking at all of those exposed connections, that would not be a surprise. If you can't find the bare wire or connector that is shorting to ground, your ignition module might be bad. That spade end is just connected to ground. There's a wire that needs a ground somewhere.

It will move your torque peak to lower RPM which is probably good, for an old engine. It makes the engine feel more powerful since most people don't use the high end of the rev range of their engines. Tony D has written some stories about using it as a tuning tool. There's room for the valves, the engine interference range is not that close for a stock cam. Here's a more "official" writeup about it - https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4706/~/advancing-%2F-retarding-a-camshaft

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/#comments

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk007mZ1L5AQH5KaoBHYK4COKl1lcbg%3A1602353719894&source=hp&ei=N_qBX96PM56x0PEP_8WjsAE&q=site%3Ahybridz.org+obx+and+belleville&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+obx+and+belleville&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzoECCMQJzoECC4QJzoFCAAQkQI6AgguOggILhDHARCjAjoICAAQsQMQgwE6BQgAELEDOggIABDJAxCRAjoICC4QxwEQrwE6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCC4QsQM6AggAOgcIABCxAxAKUNwOWPhNYK1WaABwAHgAgAFniAG9CZIBBDE3LjGYAQCgAQGgAQKqAQdnd3Mtd2l6&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwieh5ri0KrsAhWeGDQIHf_iCBYQ4dUDCAk&uact=5

Squirt the fluid directly in to the intake manifold. If the AFM vane is not opening the fluid won't get through. You might just have a big vacuum leak somewhere. Moving the AFM won't help that. Edit - actually it might, but still... Don't forget to look for rags or mice nests in the J-pipe if you got the parts from a car that has been sitting.

There's a couple of long threads on classiczcars.com about how the new aftermarket fuel pumps are bad right out of the box. Poor seals. They don't pump well and they don't seal when they're off. Which pump did you get? It's a problem and there doesn't seem to be a brand that is guaranteed to work. Classiczcars is down right now but when it comes back I'll see if I can find a link. One of the guys really went deep in to the guts of the pumps and has found solutions. zKars, I think.

Run through the typical NA EFI checks. Could be a fusible link, or even a ground problem. Voltage and grounds are the key. Here's a reference from your past. It ran before, so it should run again. Good luck. Try starting fluid if you just want to hear it for a short burst. That will confirm spark and timing, then you can focus on the injector power and control.

You are way behind the curve on this swap. There is a ton of information about it on the site. The NA EFI system is set up for NA injectors. Turbo injectors will squirt too much fuel. Good luck. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/94-engine-components/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Have you checked the spark plugs? Might be flooding. The turbo injectors are 265 CC, the NA are 188 CC. You're dumping 40% more fuel in than the engine needs.

3.5 is the early 240Z with a 3.36 R180 (I think). Here's your 75 four speed.

It's not the R200 itself. It's the 1975 model R200. I think that 1975 was the first year for the R200, for the Z cars for sure, and for some reason Nissan changed the pinion flange pattern the very next year and kept it that way for many years. So 1975 is an oddball. I can't explain why, but here's a page that shows the variation and another that shows which ones are interchangeable. The link you posted was for an R180. I don't think that you have an R180 in your car. R180's were used for automatic transmission cars. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22e01/22-1003 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic22e01

The later ZX's matched the 3.062 1st with the 3.9. The 280Z 5 speed cars and early ZX's, used a 3.321 and a 3.54 rear. Your 75 4 speed would have a 3.54. 79 ZX's have a wide range of diff ratios, based on the model and the transmission. Everything from 3.36 to 3.9. 79 is an odd year for options. Good luck. Don't forget the funky diff pattern on your 75.

Compare 1st gear ratios also, to see if 1st gear will even be usable. Also, 1975 has an odd flange bolt size and pattern on the diff and propeller shaft. So, if you get a different diff you'll need the propeller shaft flange also. And the 240SX is not a direct swap, in case you didn't know. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I'm not aware of any "bolt-in" CV axle swaps. They all require welding or hub axle and flange swaps. Plus the fact that most CV axles are too long unless you go with the Porsche 930 style. Which also, apparently, have their own issues of being loose themselves, after wearing out quickly. There might be new stuff out there. But the CV swap problems and adventures have been a constant source of entertainment over the years. No offense to those with the problems (but thanks for the stories). Good luck. Hope it's just u-joints. Get high quality u-joints, the cheap ones can be already loose. Datsun u-joints are surprisingly tight, with their precision thickness retaining clips and everything. There are six total, of course, in the drive train. So any looseness adds up.

Have you checked them, by eye, while prying on them? Noise during shifting could be a lot of things. p.s. "going CV" isn't as easy as it sounds. Expensive too.

The pictures are gone but you can get an idea of what's possible.

Wouldn't these guys know? There aren't that many variations. https://www.rhdjapan.com/contacts/

Actually, that fills out the thread. I was looking for a good image of that but didn't find one. You can see what should have power (continuity from the B terminal) at each position and test those. p.s.I think that the R, IG, S, B, and A are molded or printed on the back of the switch.

I'd try to sell them to Dave at ArizonaZcar. He builds strokers. I think he grinds his own but might be interested. DatsunSpirit also. http://datsunspirit.net/spl-series/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/index.html http://www.arizonazcar.com/about.html