NewZed

That makes sense. MS is developed enough to have an output for that function, the same signal that they use for their data logging and visual software. Good luck.

You're on the right path, taking the time to understand the details of how your tach works. But, there are still coils involved with your MS setup. I don't know how many, but if it's not one supplying six spark plugs, then it's probably three (wasted spark) or six (COP). So, the Technoversions unit has the most promise, because if you can set it to a multiple of six, and use it on one of the single coils, then you can get the tach to read right. The MSD adapter just conditions the signal for a single coil. You can't change the multiple it sends to the tach. It won't work unless you do some trickery. And it often does not work for people, even on applications it's designed for. I think that it should be possible to gang the triggers from all of the coils in to one trigger wire and use that for a single coil type adapter. You'd probably need some resistors and diodes to avoid cross-talk and noise but it should be possible. I'm kind of surprised that nobody has rigged one up, the concept is pretty simple, the tach needs are well known. If I had MS I'd send that guy at Technoversions and email and see if he'd be interested in expanding his product line to handle wasted spark and COP. He'd have a pretty big market, I think.

Error code "Too many redirects" comes up if you click on somebody's announcement.

K&N are not "regular" oiled filters. They're worse oiled filters. Really, all you're doing here is comparing two turds. Which is the better piece of junk.

.....no..... 280ZX's don't use a mustache bar. You need a 280Z bar. But you can use a 280ZX dif. You need the piece that connects the two drop down supports, that the back ends of the control arms, with bushings, are attached to. It is s curved for the R200, your R180 piece is straight. People call it the dogbone. And a 280Z R200 front differential mount. Or an RTz design mount, which he designed for V8 applications. People have finagled the R180 parts to make them work but getting 280Z parts is easier. Here is a link to a guy who sells the RTz style front diff mount. https://www.technoversions.com/ Since you're under there you should really just check all of the rubber bushings in the area. There is a lot of rubber that is now dried out and aged. Post up some good well-lit shots of the the rear suspension mounting points and the diff and we'll pick it apart.

I didn't read the whole thread. I just saw the "probably" and assumed it meant future 350, not 350 vs 327. I watched your video. One way to differentiate between the two halfshafts and a wheel or bearing problem, and the propeller shaft and diff, might be to find a big parking lot and do tight circles, both left and right, at the same speed. If it's a half shaft or wheel bearing or wheel the noise will be faster when that shaft is outside, because it's spinning faster. If it's the propeller shaft and/or diff it won't change as long as speed is the same. So, basically, if the speed of the noise changes depending on which way you're turning then it's somewhere after the output of the diff. If it doesn't it's inside the diff or before it. The basis of why they call it a "differential". A diff swap is all big bolts and heavy objects. Nothing to be nervous about.

I've seen your other posts about the broken side plate and just realized that you're planning to install a V8. Might be more cost effective to swap to an R200 instead of fixing the R180. The way to evaluate a u-joint is to stick a long screwdriver or other thin metal bar into the yoke and reef it around while shining a bright light on the cap seal area. If it's worn you'll see it move. If it's worn and dry, red powder will be apparent at the seal edge. The seal might even be cracked and broken. Heat on the yoke helps a lot for changing u-joints. A lot. You can evaluate the diff by removing the cover and examining the pinion shaft hole for slop and wear. The R180 is not a good choice for a V8 though. Too much torque. You'll either stress the diff itself or do lots of one wheel burnouts, which are bad for it too.

You could scale it from the picture. Measure what you have and scale it up.

Might help to add some detail to what "it" is. What needs to be measured.

cg, I think that you're mixing the throttle blade bypass (the AAR) with the AFM vane bypass (the screw in the AFM). The first just raises the idle speed, the second doesn't change idle speed directly but it does change the air'fuel ratio, by letting air past the AFM vane. I didn't answer the last question because it's kind of like asking if you should part your hair on the right or on the left. Doesn't matter where, you still have to get through the test.

There are two of them.

If I don't pass I adjust it outward until I hear the engine stumble a bit then run it back in a turn. You're supposed to use a gas analyzer. In Oregon we get unlimited tries, so, one or two passes and you're done.

There should be a big silver sticker on the driver's side door jamb that says either Catalyst or No Catalyst. Sometimes the guys get confused when they see the spot for it underneath or they just assume that all cars have converters. The sticker is what matters though, make sure to point out that it says NO catalyst. Unless the car started in CA then you need to put it back on. Federal law, no tampering. If I recall correctly, high CO is due to incomplete combustion. Your hydrocarbon levels are under though so you're not far off. You can probably get there by opening up the idle air bypass screw on the side of the AFM, under the rubber plug. Turning it outward lets more air past the AFM vane, leaning out the idle mixture. Also, set your timing to spec. If it's too far advanced you can get misses, that will cause problems.

Rockauto says the rear 280ZX rotors are 258 mm. Shows the 300ZX as 290. That would be a (32/2 = 16) mm pad contact area difference, not 9 mm. But, like Miles says, you need to confirm the diameter of what you got. Looks like you got everything that MSA said to get though. Who knows. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5581

Yes, that's not going to work. MSA should know that. They must be depending on their kit supplier to know what they're doing. They gave you bad advice. You can do the math on the 300ZX rotors. They are 18 mm bigger in diameter, so 9 in radius. You'll gain 9 mm of pad coverage.

How much of the pad area is contacting the rotor? That's what matters. If the pads are only partially in contact, that will put uneven pressure on the pistons. Focus on the pads.

Big picture, engineering-wise, if you do find that you lose traction because you've stiffened the chassis, you could just change your shock damping to get it back. What you're suggesting seems more like urban voodoo racer magic though. Besides that, you're really only stiffening for side to side loads. Cornering loads. So, if you're not talking about launching out of a corner it wouldn't seem to matter much. Straight line launching is more through the struts. Burleigh used to make a new solid "dog bone" for the finned covers. Looks like he hasn't been on the site for about a year though -

That's goofy. Couldn't tell if full pad contact is being made, or if half the pad is only making contact. If all of the pad is making contact then the outer portion of the disc gives max leverage. but the discs I've worked on always have about 1/8" of uncontacted edge on the perimeter. Who knows. Here is Nissan's 1982 ZX picture. Seems to show what Big Phil is saying. Maybe Nissan just decided to use a smaller pad instead of a smaller disc, to balance back to front. Not very weight effective though.

Also, use the notch and groove, if your new sprocket has it, to confirm cam sprocket timing.

The chain almost never skips a tooth. I think that that idea is from the days of the Model T or somewhere back there, used to explain things not understood. The Haynes manuals are known to be poor for the L series engines. Use the Nissan FSM, which is free almost anywhere you look on the internet. Seems like you didn't get the gear aligned right. Posted a picture, note that one half moon is smaller than the other. The small one goes forward. Also, I have found that if you put the wires on in reverse rotation order the engine will still start but run very poorly. Odd but true.

Just tried to send the guy a message but the text box would not open, so I couldn't write anything. I had to create a junk file to insert before I could send the message. I put the actual message in the title. Didn't we just have a big fund-raising drive so that new better software could be purchased and installed? The site seems to be going the way of zcar.com. Lots of things aren't working.

Just tried to reply to a guy who posted a new topic in the FAQ section. There's no Reply function. Tried to report it, with a comment, but that doesn't work either. It's a new topic, floating in space, with no ability to interact with humans.

Did you do both at once or did you just throw in the part about the SR20? In other words, did it work well with the SR20 and transmission before you installed the 300ZX diff? You might try rolling backwards down in a hill in neutral to see if it's a load thing or a direction thing, or both. If it makes the noise in neutral, no load, it might tell you something.

Where?

What type of test are you trying to pass? Just idle, or idle and 2500 RPM? Or some sort of visual? The hoses and devices are shown and described in the Emissions chapter of the FSM.