NewZed

How much of the pad area is contacting the rotor? That's what matters. If the pads are only partially in contact, that will put uneven pressure on the pistons. Focus on the pads.

Big picture, engineering-wise, if you do find that you lose traction because you've stiffened the chassis, you could just change your shock damping to get it back. What you're suggesting seems more like urban voodoo racer magic though. Besides that, you're really only stiffening for side to side loads. Cornering loads. So, if you're not talking about launching out of a corner it wouldn't seem to matter much. Straight line launching is more through the struts. Burleigh used to make a new solid "dog bone" for the finned covers. Looks like he hasn't been on the site for about a year though -

That's goofy. Couldn't tell if full pad contact is being made, or if half the pad is only making contact. If all of the pad is making contact then the outer portion of the disc gives max leverage. but the discs I've worked on always have about 1/8" of uncontacted edge on the perimeter. Who knows. Here is Nissan's 1982 ZX picture. Seems to show what Big Phil is saying. Maybe Nissan just decided to use a smaller pad instead of a smaller disc, to balance back to front. Not very weight effective though.

Also, use the notch and groove, if your new sprocket has it, to confirm cam sprocket timing.

The chain almost never skips a tooth. I think that that idea is from the days of the Model T or somewhere back there, used to explain things not understood. The Haynes manuals are known to be poor for the L series engines. Use the Nissan FSM, which is free almost anywhere you look on the internet. Seems like you didn't get the gear aligned right. Posted a picture, note that one half moon is smaller than the other. The small one goes forward. Also, I have found that if you put the wires on in reverse rotation order the engine will still start but run very poorly. Odd but true.

Just tried to send the guy a message but the text box would not open, so I couldn't write anything. I had to create a junk file to insert before I could send the message. I put the actual message in the title. Didn't we just have a big fund-raising drive so that new better software could be purchased and installed? The site seems to be going the way of zcar.com. Lots of things aren't working.

Just tried to reply to a guy who posted a new topic in the FAQ section. There's no Reply function. Tried to report it, with a comment, but that doesn't work either. It's a new topic, floating in space, with no ability to interact with humans.

Did you do both at once or did you just throw in the part about the SR20? In other words, did it work well with the SR20 and transmission before you installed the 300ZX diff? You might try rolling backwards down in a hill in neutral to see if it's a load thing or a direction thing, or both. If it makes the noise in neutral, no load, it might tell you something.

Where?

What type of test are you trying to pass? Just idle, or idle and 2500 RPM? Or some sort of visual? The hoses and devices are shown and described in the Emissions chapter of the FSM.

What have you read? No use repeating it if it's been read already. There's at least one pretty long and somewhat informative thread on Hybridz, and two web sites with lots of swap details, part numbers, pictures, and measurements.

I would give a better description of what problem you're trying to solve. You said it wouldn't start after a radiator replacement. Your title says "won't start". But now you say it won't rev. And, apparently, it ran fine, you drove it for two hours to get it home. But them it wouldn't rev past 3500 RPM. So, which of the many problems are you asking about?

That's not a counterpoint to my point. Which was to your point about wheel cylinder "blow-outs" as a reason to switch to discs and calipers. Your statement implied that drum brakes are inherently unsafe. I was showing that they are not. You're digressing. Back to the original point about performance - I'm pretty sure that some of the guys that race their cars, or have, have pointed out that the typical front brake "upgrade" to bigger calipers and discs adds unsprung weight. Which is a suspension performance downgrade. My main point is to define clearly what you're trying to accomplish. Don't just bolt on parts that somebody on the internet said were an upgrade or that one of the aftermarket suppliers is selling as an upgrade. The advancements come from the people that think out their projects and choose the parts that do the job. The thread seems to be trending that way, so carry on.

Drum brakes have been around and dependable for many years and are still in use on brand new cars from reputable manufacturers. Worrying about a cylinder blow-out, or a spin-out just doesn't seem to have much weight. Just trying to stay on the path of solid reason.

That's what the brake pressure differential switch is for. To light up the Brake light. Caliper seals can blow out too. You're kind of giving the irrational "reason" to upgrade. Better to just admit that you want shiny brake parts. One rational reason, to me anyway, to convert the backs to disc is that they stay in fine adjustment. The drum brakes will feel different before and after a click on the adjusting wheel. The pedal will be higher after a click.

Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness. It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter. Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil. Let the other end hang free. Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground. This will cause the coil to spark. Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open. If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact. It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation. If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on. You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter. But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way. Good luck, have fun.

This might get you close.

If spark and timing are right, you should be able to get a start with starting fluid and keep it running for a few seconds with a few extra squirts. I think that you mentioned a backfire in the other thread. Are all of the hoses to the intake system intact? Is the oil filler cap on? Is the PCV hose intact? The EFI system does not like to see any air that has not passed through the AFM. It's very important that the intake system and the crankcase are completely sealed.

Should have kept your other thread going. Now everyone has to ask the same questions over again. You got it to run for a short while using starting fluid before. Why didn't you try starting fluid again? Fuel, spark, and timing are what you need. And air. No offense, but you don't really seem to be thinking about how engines work. You have fuel and spark. And it started once. Why are you testing "power relays" and worried about the air regulator? You have fuel and spark. Have you read the Engine Fuel chapter? Nissan wrote a two-three page tutorial at the beginning on how their system works and what happens during starting. It's a primer on EFI.

I don't think that I've ever read anyone actually write down what they thought the improvement would be, for any of the various brake "upgrades". Most performance "upgrades" are done for looks, from what I've seen. If you can't describe the performance benefits in words, then you're just doing it for looks. The brake upgrade world typically involves a lot of effort and expense to create new problems. Figure out what you're trying to accomplish first.

Did you hear bubbles? How long did it run after you used the starting fluid? Seriously, it's not complicated.

Setting to stock would be the safest. Valve lash gets tighter as engines warm up, so if you go too tight you can warp/burn a valve. Setting tighter is the "racer's edge" method, with racing edge risk. Could be expensive.

None of what you wrote explains the smoke. Be careful. You have more smoke waiting to come out. I don't know what you're "brushing" your battery terminals with, or what kind of grease you're putting on, but there's a simple $2 tool made specifically for cleaning terminals using hard wire brushes, and no grease is necessary. You can get the took, called a battery terminal cleaner, at any auto parts store, or hardware store, or Harbor Freight. Clean them up, leave the grease off, and clamp them down tightly using a wrench. Check under the dash for wire ends that are brown or burnt. Wire connections get loose or corroded and generate heat. Check the back of the ammeter.

There are several sites out there that have FSM's free for download. Xenonzcar, nicoclub and classiczcars.com. The wire is small and just pulls off by hand.

Don't make it complicated. People run out of gas all the time. It might not even be your problem. Run the pump as described elsewhere and listen for bubbles n the tank. When the bubbles stop the lines are full. Then use starting fluid to get it started.