NewZed

Probably could have just said "no" and "no". There are most likely much more effective ways to maximize air flow and minimize pressure drop. As far as the K&N effectiveness issue, I just saw this on another forum - do the white glove test on the inlet piping after the K&N. See what's making it through. A white paper towel or cloth will probably do. I took off the inlet pipe on a vehicle I recently bought that still had the K&N sticker on the housing. The PO to me had already replaced the filter with a paper element. I was shocked at the amount of fine dust I found inside. It coated everything. It was so bad I'm not even sure that the filter housing was properly sealed. It's a Ford truck with the big clamp that often gets cocked or screwed up. I'll never know for sure.

Doesn't the heat come from compressing the air? More air to compress means more heat. The turbo only "works" on the air it sees. Less air = less work. Overall though, this is kind of a goofy topic. The pressure drop will increase with air quantity, flow, right? Besides that, engines don't really require anything. Not even sure what "require" means here. You have to define objectives before you can define requirements.

People are starting discussions topics in the FAQ area, but Replies are not allowed. Seems like the situation could be cleared up somehow. It's like a trap, where ideas go to die.

Typically, it's known for suppressing radio interference, buzzing, so it's not really necessary. I've used them to make my tach work right though. Electrical noise can cause problems. Looks like any alternator condenser would work. You can get them at the local auto parts store. Not a huge deal though. There are two #23's. One at the alternator and one at the coil. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/radio-stereo-clock/from-aug-76/23

Why not just fix it? It's a capacitor for reducing electrical noise. It has a purpose.

You can splice them. I'd use a butt connector and shrink tubing myself, but many people like soldering. The engine won't start because the blue wire is the signal to the EFI computer.

It's behind the rubber cork.

The Factory Service Manual has a whole chapter about disassembling the engine and checking the parts for wear. Nissan actually molded and machined indicators in to the timing components for that purpose. Most people do things like check cylinder pressure, record oil usage, examine spark plugs, etc to determine if their engine is worn. It's sounding like you might not have even had the engine running yet. Why would you spend time and money on something so unknown? You might be replacing high quality parts on an engine that's barely broken in, with sub-standard parts assembled by someone who has little experience. Put a list together of what you'll spend to "rebuild" the engine and you'll see that the sentence below doesn't really make sense. Spending your "swap" money on rebuilding an engine that's not worth keeping? Good luck. "But, i'll only swap for something more modern than an L series and i don't currently have the funds for it"

Which car? It might already have one.

Which ECU are you using? The 260Z's had carburetors, no ECU. If you transplanted an L20ET, then the car it came from would be where you could get that information, if you swapped the ECU also.

http://www.cometic.com/p-35444-automotive.html

You might be overthinking it. The headgasket has a soft surface designed to press in to slight imperfections. Your imperfection is less than slight.

What kind of racing?

It's just easier to get to the transmission bolts when it's out. The wrecking yards around my area all have very nice tall lifting derricks on wheels so it's easy to get the parts out as a unit. Might be easier to do just the engine. Play it by ear. Lift it halfway then remove the trans bolts. Attach the hoist before removing the last few bolts. Your biggest concern is all of that weight hanging. Just remembered also - make sure that you have the chain or cable to attach to the lift points on the engine, to attach their hoist to. Don't assume that they'll have what you need.

Hacksaw for exhaust pipes, various tubes, wires, etc. Good cutters for cables and wires. Vise-grips for those hard to reach and rounded off parts. A small sledge. Multiples of those wrenches and sockets. In case you lose one. It's a wrecking yard, don't worry too much about damaging things. We all hate finding those smashed up parts from the guys that got their first but odds are what you damage isn't going to be bought anyway. Pull the whole engine and transmission as a unit. Take it apart afterward. Leave the flywheel and clutch parts attached to the engine, only remove them if they try to charge you extra for them. Try to run through the process in your head and you'll probably think of a few more things.

I already said why I even got in to this thread. Don't overdo things. The internet is full of people one-upping the last recommendation. Recommending extreme measures. Maybe he should just tack the damper to the crank with a welder. I was surprised when you climbed on the Chickenman wagon. I thought you would be down with the more scientific and fact-based approach. All he needs is the right parts, cleaned up and installed correctly. Blue Loctite on cleaned threads is probably fine. Red Loctite on oily threads is probably not as good. It's the fine details that matter, not just slathering on some red Loctite.

I'm trying to find a good source for "red" Loctite on racing dampers, but many don't even recommend thread locker. I used Loctite Red High Strength for ring gear bolts. But I didn't even do that right when I look back (they say to spread maximum strength red around the bolt holes, I used high strength on the bolts themselves). But can't find a reason to use it for damper bolts. They don't mention it. Just looking for the reason. My initial point was "no need to overdo it". Red seems like an overdo. The overlooked details about burrs, and clean threads, and greasing the crank nose, and heating the damper before driving it on seem more important. Red Loctite on oily threads is not much use. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-4209-8.pdf https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6316-C351.pdf

I referenced duragg because he's a pragmatic guy who was actually running his race car (that he built) to 7500 RPM. One more opinion. I've seen CM's posts since he joined various forums. He used to be just a guy with lots of parts counter experience. Now he writes like Carroll Smith, but driving also. Very much like Carroll Smith, I have two of his books. Smith's, not CM's. The grain of salt is always in play. Take it from someone who actually has spent a lot of time on the internet.

It was a good discussion. My preference is to do things to the appropriate level maybe with a little bit of insurance. Duragg spends a lot of time at 7500 RPM, maybe higher. He got deep in to transmission synchro design to get his trans to shift well up there. Maybe he has some real-world L-series knowledge to pass on. He has since switched engines but he used to have an L. I don't know if the at's really work but it's worth a try. Mine's just a test. @duragg @NewZed

Might as well go all the way. Don't want the crank nose end busting off and taking out a crowd of people.

This thread ended up just like all internet threads.

I was just making a point. The internet is full of advice about over-doing things. If you're on a Ford forum they're fanatical about buying only Motorcraft parts, for example. People slather anti-seize over every bolt if they've ever had a single stuck one. People use lock washers and Loctite and over-torque, just to "be sure". The damper is a simple mechanism. Just make sure the bolts fit correctly, the threads are clean, there are no burrs in any critical areas, use some blue Loctite or any other brand of threadlocker, and run with it. Bolts don't just back out. Most of the damper problems you read about are probably from poor fitment of the damper on the crank snout. BHJ has some good stuff on their web site. #5 in the first paper, and general installation instructions. Notice that they don't even talk about the bolt in the installation paper, it's all about getting the damper correctly mounted on the snout of the crankshaft. The bolt is assumed to be the easy part. Just torque the right bolt down on top of the correct washer. If the damper fit isn't right the Loctite won't save you, is the point. I'm overdoing it myself, in this post. Good luck. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJDynamics_Damper_Info.pdf http://harmonicdampers.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJ_DamperSteelInstallPress.pdf

By whom? Thread lockers are neat, and good insurance, but Nissan didn't feel the need for any special instructions at all. The basics of how bolts work is all you really need. They're just clamping devices. Don't make it over-complicated. Much of the red Loctite usage probably comes from people who didn't do things right the first time, had problems, and are overcompensating the second time around. Here is all of the effort that Nissan put in to their instructions.

It worked. Yes, the L-series link is hidden. Ron Tyler did that when he reorganized things. Seemed like a good idea, but it's somehow invisible up there. Lots of people miss it. and it's where most of the good stuff is. Since you're here - the vigilink monster is back. Click my links in this thread.

This might help. I always have a problem figuring out what is superceding what though. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal/16