NewZed

Dang, screwed up my post.

How did it become "famous"? I had to Google it and the stories seem to be from somebody talking about their own car. I'm not sure you're allowed to claim your own fame. Your description of wanting bolt-on only is why I tried to clarify. That's not what most people here would call best. They weld on a whim. I guess that you bought the black one? Or are you Jack? https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=19345

We neglected to abuse the OP for using the word "best". Best depends on the goals that have been defined.

Don't mtnickel's adapters remove the requirement of shorter axles? Flipping the cages, adjustable control arm length and all of the other possible "fixes". The other big expense to that conversion. I seem to recall that some of the early adapters pushed the flange surface inward. Maybe even the one that Joe makes now. I'm just focusing on the OP's project, not the super duper drag racers. SUNNYZ and RebekahZ were doing hard core racing. Pretty sure that SUNNYZ was trying to break things.

You'd have 280Z axles. Lots of 280Z's out there with much more power than you're planning, using the stock hubs and axles. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/6

How do those locate, or center, the CV? Just curious. It also looks like you're using the outer edges of the original flange to locate the ring. Do you use some sort of fixture to center the ring on the flange before welding? Just wondering how to be sure the CV is on center and perpendicular when it's all welded and bolted together.

You're probably fine with the u-joint half shafts. Many, many, of the "upgrades" aren't really upgrades. If you're not drag-racing. You didn't even say what kind of Z you're working with. 240, 260, or 280? They're not the same, although they're all S30's..

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=bestkeywordmatch&SortOrder=ascending&keyword=mr%20gasket%20electric%20fuel%20pump&cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-all-part-types-_-keyword

How do you know it's fuel starvation? What does "gun it hard" mean? Like SJ says, you really just need the volume to keep the float bowls full. You can measure the rate to see what you're getting. An EFI conversion isn't going to be easier than getting a carb to work.

You haven't mentioned the different axle lengths, VLSD compared to open or or CLSD. The 280Z and 280ZX R200 axles will slide in to the 29 spline VLSD diffs but they won't actuate the VLSD unit, because they're not long enough. I bought a salvage yard J30 R200 just to see about what was possible with it. Somebody on the site did the same and made their own extended axle by welding an extension on to their 280Z R200 axle. He said it worked fine, but it seems sketchy. Worst case though, if his modified axle breaks, he just has an open diff with a stub floating around in it, contained. One more variable.

When you're looking at parts like this you should break it down in to subcomponents. Machining the races and balls for the joint is the most important part. It would not be surprising to find that everybody gets their joints from the same off-shore manufacturer. Who just copied the Posrsche 930 design or some other easy tripod or other "CV" design. The rest is just axles and splines and flanges. And, in that link with the video about "looseness" it's not even clear what the guy thinks he's talking about. Watch that video, at about 40 seconds, and you'll realize that he didn't show anything. He wiggled a tire and that's about it.

Never mind. Got trolled by a troll there for a few minutes. Carry on Leon. There's a few more fish out there.

If camber gain, shmamber gain isn't trolly, then what is? Certainly doesn't look like carefully chosen wording. Looks like fight picking. Bad blood from the past? JM seems very reasonable.

Nothing is guaranteed with reman parts but you can return them until you get a good one. Good luck.

It would run like that. If you have a similar box you could just swap the wires over. There might be ID marks on the terminals also to help out. Lots of options. Except that there's no Pertronix for a 280Z distributor, which is what you have there. The GM HEI module swap is pretty simple and it's more weather resistant. It would live in the engine bay. Disconnect the red and green wires and measure resistance on the distributor side. That's a test for the pickup coil. Check the air gap. See if the breaker plate bearings are good and the plate rotates for vacuum advance. It's all shown in a 280Z Engine Electrical chapter. Here's a HEI module swap guide. It's actually easier to just know that B is switched power, C is coil negative, G is the green wire from the dist., and W is the red one. And the module needs to be well grounded through the mounting holes. You don't need that ballast resistor or old 240Z coil either. http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/gmhei.html

He has a 240Z. Electronic ignition didn't show up in the Z's until the 260Z. That's somebody's upgrade.

Somebody has already converted to electronic ignition. That box is an ignition module but it's not clear which car it came from. Probably better off just springing $25 and converting to a GM HEI module. The old modules like that one are all dying anyway, plus that one is not supposed to be outside of the cabin. It's probably corroded inside. It looks like the wires are all correctly connected, assuming they were in the beginning. Two from the distributor, the coil wires, and a ground.. So either the module or the distributor pickups are bad. Your distributor is probably from a 280Z. Take the cap off and you won't see points.

You'll have excess blowby during the break in period until the rings seat. The oil gets thrown by the crankshaft. Did you remove the internal screen that covers the side port when you had the engine apart? Might be throwing the oil directly in to the tube. Since you're not using PCV you could just block that tube. Then the excess blowby will just come out the hole in the valve cover. Also, make sure that you didn't overfill with oil. Too much oil is bad, it will froth and foam.

The throwout bearing collar, or sleeve as Nissan calls it, has nothing at all to do with the type of transmission. They, the transmissions, are all the same, as far as the position of the clutch fork pivot ball. The sleeve must match the pressure plate and flywheel. Don't pay any attention to all of those lists and charts showing 4 speeds and 5 speeds and the various sleeves. They will send you the wrong way. Take the measurement from the flywheel surface to the ears of the collar. It's documented in several threads on this site and others. 92 mm. Put the transmission in to the gear for the switch you are worried about and measure resistance at the switch. Then put it in neutral and measure again. That will tell you if the switch is actuated by the gear that you've chosen. If you use a Z shifter to replace the ZX shifter, check that the base of the shifter doesn't interfere with the area that it inserts in to the control mechanism. This can cause it to not fully engage in 5th gear. A fairly common problem.

I just like to correct errors when I see them. It's not you, it's your errors.

You must be confusing the Blaster 2 with some other coil. MSD advertises it for use even with points. Can't get much more inductive than that. It's just a plain old coil with red paint, and a bit lower primary circuit resistance. Probably requires less dwell than the Nissan coil. https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/performance_street/parts/8202

I have a bar but no bushings. It's used, from a 1978 parts car. Which side of WA are you on. Dry or wet? Edit - just noticed Walla Walla. So, shipping probably required.

You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to. The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft. One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft. It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long. So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also. Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications. Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter. In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts. But many people do it. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

Do the swaps one at a time also or you might not know which swap is causing problem, voltmeter or alternator.

The diode goes on the L wire. Are you sure the Speedhut meter doesn't have a charge warning light? Either way, you should be able to use the typical 240Z alt swap wiring instructions. But, it's actually pretty simple. Study what the S and L wires actually do, and just wire according to function.