NewZed

Download the first book here, the 1980 EFI Manual. It covers all years through 1980. Go to electrical tests and do the tests at the ECU connector as shown. Good luck. Power on both pins is normal if you test one connector at a time and others are plugged in. It's a parallel circuit, power comes from the dropping resistors. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php

The injectors all open at the same time, so mixing injector connectors won't do anything. If you ONLY replaced injector connectors and this problem occurred then I'd say make sure that all of the injectors have power and are connected to the ECU. Both pins doing what they should do. Because all of the injectors open at the same time and because things are rich when cold, you might have cylinders running on fuel from neighboring cylinders. As it warms up and at higher RPM things will get lean which causes backfires and other problems. Check your injectors for power and continuity, at the ECU connector in the cabin.

If the flow is high won't the bubbles get pushed out? Never really understood the bleeding problems, in the high flow areas. That's whole point of the modification, to increase flow rate in certain areas. If flow rate can't push the air then it's not very high.

If you turn the speed up to 1.5. It's kind of watchable. Lots of simple advice, like how to drill a hole. Not so sure he really understands how the modification works. Pretty sure he's read this thread. Should have mentioned it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/ "Embroidered" marks...

There are a few threads out there about doing this. The key is engine management. You're only up to the simple part. Here's a good broad overview - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

They'd probably let you measure it in the store. I've done that at OReilly. It's more interesting for them than just taking money. They're bored.

Then it's one of those "make it work" setups, using NA parts to run a turbo motor. No real Nissan guidance. Beware of detonation.

Does the turbo motor actually have the turbo? Or is it just a turbo motor running NA? Probably best to know what full mechanical advance is and set initial based on that. If you have 20 degrees of advance and set initial at 20 you'll be at 40 total. Which is too much. You can look at the weights or just rev the engine with the vacuum advance disconnected and watch timing.

https://www.facebook.com/OneSixIndustries/

Seems like it should. Looks like a product new to market though. Never seen it before. You can trace it all the way back to a one product web site. Not sure how well it will work, it looks like a small 24-2 VR wheel inside the cap. Unusual design. https://zcardepot.com/distributor-crank-trigger-sensor-efi-240z-260z-280z-510 http://www.onesixindustries.com/products

It is low on power. And you still haven't told much about the engine. And you still have big injectors on a motor that has no need for them. Like you're not really sure what you're doing. Sorry. You'll have to learn the basics of how engines work. Especially these L series engines. It's all well documented on the site. Except for "W45 intake". Not clear what that is. Show that you have your cam on the right hole and the notch and groove are aligned. What's your compression ratio? Is valve lash properly adjusted? The basic starting points, before you even begin tuning. Your list of things doesn't mean a whole lot without the details. Somebody can probably look at your MS file and get you a few more HP. But there's a lot more to it than just a "tune". Good luck.

It's nice work. But the front mount has the same leverage problem that most of the short nose diff mounts have. The nose load has a short lever on the two body mount bolts. The back bolt is essentially a fulcrum, getting upward load under forward acceleration, and the front bolt gets a downward load.

Exhaust leaks often make a mechanical sounding ticking noise. Kind of sounds like the temperature rise has made you sensitive to all kinds of normal noises. Oil pressure will drop as temperature rises. Does coolant temperature still rise at higher RPM? If you don't have an HG leak in to the cooling system, your cooling system should have been able to maintain temperature. I'd fix your cooling system first. Sounds like it might need work.

100 HP is pretty bad. You don't mention a cam profile, or cam timing, or exhaust system, or compression ratio, or any head work, or much at all in the way of mechanical details. Looks like a stock engine, which typically gets about 130 - 150 HP, with bigger injectors. No point in the big injectors if you can't pull the air to use the fuel. The site just had a series of posts about how attention to the fine details will get you more than the typical 150. You're on the other side, working with few details. No offense, it's just the way it looks. The tune can only maximize to the limits of the mechanical work.

I think that John Coffey had the high HP ITS engine. Search his old posts. Here's one example, but it doesn't describe the engine building just the results. He mentions 200 HP. But I remember reading some of his other posts. It is about attention to detail. Edit - also search just John Coffey and horsepower. Every now and then he would post his best bang for the buck list for creating power from a stock starting point.

So, the pistons aren't the "same" weight. What are you going to recommend?

Is there a question? Just curious. It's a Toyota engine?

The idle speed change is a clue. Could be a big vacuum leak. A small leak raises idle speed, a bigger one drops it. A huge one kills the engine. Could be lash set too tight, or too loose. If you have an intake system vacuum gauge it's a good tool for comparing cylinders while running. The needle will jump. Overall though, all you did, hopefully, was adjust the gap between rocker arm pad and cam lobe. If you got all of the hoses connected correctly and the valve cover gasket placed properly it should be fine. The oil smell might be oil leaking from the valve cover. Who knows. There's nothing you can really screw up. I would retrace the steps you took and see if something's out of place.

I don't hear a knocking noise. If you didn't let the engine warm up you'll get a wet black deposit. Wet carbon is greasy feeling. You might be overthinking things, and nervous about your recent work. If you're sure got the lash aright, warm it up and drive it and see how it sound when it's hot.

The pump is external. There's drawing on page FE-3 with labels. This is from 1982's.

It's not really an adapter. It's an axle. Heat on the flange of the half-shaft. The part that needs to expand. But really, a big plastic hammer or even a piece of 2x4 will do it. Just grab a piece of wood, hold on to the axle (the new shiny part), and hit the half-shaft flange. It will pop right off.

It's not the collar alone that matters. It's the collar (or sleeve as Nissan calls it), and the pressure plate. Together. Start at #35 here and it will make more sense. Maybe. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44389-l28-is-toasting-my-240z-clutch/?page=2 Here's another interesting one -

Hard plastic hammer, block of wood...the part that's sticking is just a press fit. Use a heat gun instead of torch if you don't want to burn your paint.

Necroposting to a Level 10 Necroposter. Apropos. Maybe the @ thing will work @jeffp

Why are you not posting on classiczcars.com? Hybridz is the site where people are most likely to remove their SU's and sell them.