
NewZed
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Everything posted by NewZed
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Sounds like they weren't really fusible links. Do you know that they were the factory originals or were they aftermarket? Could also be that somebody used the wrong links. There's been a discussion over the years about the use of the red links in place of the brown ones. Many years ago somebody decided that the brown ones were actually red and that they were 50 amp capacity instead of, probably, 30 amp. This red link information has been propagated since then even though the FSM clearly shows different, with a smaller gauge wire for the Brown (Br) links. Maybe somebody finally got "burned" by it. Bummer.
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72 240z 77 ignition 81 turbo motor Timing???
NewZed replied to ChrisDatsunz's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Your cause and effect make no sense but good luck with it. More likely a loose wire or a failing part got jiggled when you were working on it so be ready. -
280z upto date wiring harness and fuse box...
NewZed replied to LiamR's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Nissan used lots of splices in the original harness. In case you didn't know. Try Motorsport Auto for things like a more modern fusebox. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010 Beside that, why was there carpet on the dash? -
Aren't the Japan cars called Fairlady's? Anyway, kind of a dull thread without pictures.
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Which side is the steering wheel on?
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Must have been imported from Canada. Edit - more info. Could be Germany, France or Holland. http://zhome.com/History/240ZProduction/240ZProduction.htm http://xenonzcar.com/s30/VIN.html FSM page GI-2...
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That's not really how pressure works. Apparently, Nissan got rid of the liners for the turbo engines because they tend to break free and destroy the turbo. People do use the N47 head with turbos though. It's just a risk. As I understand things the flow obstructions are mostly on the intake side.
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Just curious. How'd you break it?
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Pretty sure I've read comments from guys that know suggesting that you mark the position of the nut before removing it then slowly work the nut back to that position when reassembling. Since the various metal parts will be the same after the seal is replaced it should give the same pinion shaft tension as before it was disassembled. If you took it apart without marking it you're in a bind.
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I meant thicker shim above, not thinner. Sounds like you're on it anyway. Good luck.
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If I recall right the shim contacts the bearing and the A dimension is how far the bearing sticks out. You're not shimming the cover, creating a gap, your shimming the bearing race to get a certain force. So the shim is meant to apply force to the bearing race, to keep it in place after expansion of the case. So, in your situation, you'd have a little extra force on the bearing race because your bearing is sticking out a bit far. Maybe give it a few more taps and see if it drives in farther. Might solve the dilemma. Otherwise, I think you'd actually want a thicker gasket. But that might affect your other dimensions. I've read that the racers often run a thinner shim to get more force on the counter bearing, to keep it in place when the transmission is really hot and expanded. Food for thought. That's how I remember things from back when I put one together. I could be completely wrong in my thinking. I also have a book on rebuilding transmissions and seem to remember some good info there too. From 82 ZX...
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It might help you to read the early 280Z and 280ZX transmission chapters. I think that they have a different procedure but for the same purpose. I remember thinking that the purpose of the shim was to apply some preload to the bearing. The Z and ZX procedure seemed to make more sense. Hard to tell what the 240SX procedure means by "allowable clearance 0 - 0.16mm". They mixed the directions in their table, I think, and are using the word clearance instead of tolerance. Confusing.
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Brake booster/master cylinder options on a 73' 240z?
NewZed replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Did you check the rod position? You'd think it would be centered between the studs but I think that some aren't. -
Download the first book here, the 1980 EFI Manual. It covers all years through 1980. Go to electrical tests and do the tests at the ECU connector as shown. Good luck. Power on both pins is normal if you test one connector at a time and others are plugged in. It's a parallel circuit, power comes from the dropping resistors. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php
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The injectors all open at the same time, so mixing injector connectors won't do anything. If you ONLY replaced injector connectors and this problem occurred then I'd say make sure that all of the injectors have power and are connected to the ECU. Both pins doing what they should do. Because all of the injectors open at the same time and because things are rich when cold, you might have cylinders running on fuel from neighboring cylinders. As it warms up and at higher RPM things will get lean which causes backfires and other problems. Check your injectors for power and continuity, at the ECU connector in the cabin.
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If the flow is high won't the bubbles get pushed out? Never really understood the bleeding problems, in the high flow areas. That's whole point of the modification, to increase flow rate in certain areas. If flow rate can't push the air then it's not very high.
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If you turn the speed up to 1.5. It's kind of watchable. Lots of simple advice, like how to drill a hole. Not so sure he really understands how the modification works. Pretty sure he's read this thread. Should have mentioned it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/ "Embroidered" marks...
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There are a few threads out there about doing this. The key is engine management. You're only up to the simple part. Here's a good broad overview - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/
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Brake booster/master cylinder options on a 73' 240z?
NewZed replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
They'd probably let you measure it in the store. I've done that at OReilly. It's more interesting for them than just taking money. They're bored. -
72 240z 77 ignition 81 turbo motor Timing???
NewZed replied to ChrisDatsunz's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Then it's one of those "make it work" setups, using NA parts to run a turbo motor. No real Nissan guidance. Beware of detonation. -
72 240z 77 ignition 81 turbo motor Timing???
NewZed replied to ChrisDatsunz's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Does the turbo motor actually have the turbo? Or is it just a turbo motor running NA? Probably best to know what full mechanical advance is and set initial based on that. If you have 20 degrees of advance and set initial at 20 you'll be at 40 total. Which is too much. You can look at the weights or just rev the engine with the vacuum advance disconnected and watch timing. -
https://www.facebook.com/OneSixIndustries/
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Seems like it should. Looks like a product new to market though. Never seen it before. You can trace it all the way back to a one product web site. Not sure how well it will work, it looks like a small 24-2 VR wheel inside the cap. Unusual design. https://zcardepot.com/distributor-crank-trigger-sensor-efi-240z-260z-280z-510 http://www.onesixindustries.com/products