NewZed

The transmission rebuild industry seems to have gotten some bad information many years ago and it persists. The 280ZX never had a 71C for example, and the 5 speed is a FS5W71B, not 71A. These errors are found on many rebuild parts suppliers' sites. Like any other project, the best you'll do is to get close, then have to take measurements and check that what you're doing will work. You're not going to find the final answer out here on the internet. Good luck. Edit - and Xnke is very very often right in what he writes. He doesn't seem to visit the site much anymore but he generally steers people the right way and has done a lot of work on these Z's. If he says the G is the same length as the B then it probably is. Use the Service Manuals to determine what's a G or an H. They label them in the MT Chapters.

No, it fits better. Yes, it is just as strong. No, it's the same size and length.

Actually, Xnke implies that the 71G is the same length as the 71B in this thread, so the same propeller shaft can be used. It's never been clear what, exactly, the last letter signifies.

2WD generally has "normal" gear ratios. There's a thread out there somewhere where we went in to great detail about all of the possible 71_ differences. I think the G's might have a shorter tail shaft. A measurement might tell you if you have the G in front of you. This is from the 1995 FSM.

Good stuff here...but...Nissan changed to a different system in 1978. And it had a flaw. It uses the alternator power and an oil pressure switch to run the pump, but the flaw is that if the oil pressure switch is disconnected the pump will run when the key is on. Check that. And read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM it shows and describes everything.

I have one but I'm not going to be around until next week. Shoot me a message, and a reminder.

The front bearings are tapered roller bearings. They should have no play at all and actually have a little bit of preload. You can reset tapered bearings if they're not too worn. When the front bearings get loose the Z's tend to wander, follow road ruts, and have loose feeling steering. The rear bearings are ball bearings. Wear on those is usually determined by how "grindy" they feel when rotating. Of course, the Axle chapters in the FSM have the official factory methods for determining if replacement is needed. The front bearings are fairly easy to replace, the rear bearings take some work.

It's hard to say. Because it's not clear that the conversion from wire size to amps is correct. If you assume that the conversion is right, then actually a 20 amp might be right. 0.3 mm is 43% of .69. 43% of 50 amps is 22 amps. Or, 60% of the green link, 0.3/0.5, gives 24 amps. So, 20 or 25 seems right.

Forgot to say that if you had the incorrect fusible link because of that bad information and replaced the link with a fuse of the same amp rating, then you'll be in the same situation. You haven't really improved anything. I see three 50A fuses in your picture. Those are way too high. Compare the fusible link wire sizes in the FSM and you'll see that the Brown links can't be 50 amp, if the Green links are 40 amp. Brown is smaller than Green. Here's the info from the 1978 FSM that I'm talking about and the other info about "red" links. That were never used. I don't know how it got this way but Nissan's FSM's were the same for many years, showing Brown as the smallest link, and never showing a Red one. This topic was one of my first big discussions on a Z forum. Never did get a good answer. The atlanticz page even shows wire size, that doesn't match the FSM's. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Sounds like they weren't really fusible links. Do you know that they were the factory originals or were they aftermarket? Could also be that somebody used the wrong links. There's been a discussion over the years about the use of the red links in place of the brown ones. Many years ago somebody decided that the brown ones were actually red and that they were 50 amp capacity instead of, probably, 30 amp. This red link information has been propagated since then even though the FSM clearly shows different, with a smaller gauge wire for the Brown (Br) links. Maybe somebody finally got "burned" by it. Bummer.

Your cause and effect make no sense but good luck with it. More likely a loose wire or a failing part got jiggled when you were working on it so be ready.

Take a measurement and post it up. Somebody might be able to tell you. Pictures of paint/undercoat shadows aren't going to get you far. If somebody put a shorter mount/drop-down on then it will show in the measurement.

The mustache bar hangs from the studs at the ends of the bar. You took a picture of the control arm mount. A new set of mustache bar bushings might do the trick.

Nissan used lots of splices in the original harness. In case you didn't know. Try Motorsport Auto for things like a more modern fusebox. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010 Beside that, why was there carpet on the dash?

Aren't the Japan cars called Fairlady's? Anyway, kind of a dull thread without pictures.

Which side is the steering wheel on?

Must have been imported from Canada. Edit - more info. Could be Germany, France or Holland. http://zhome.com/History/240ZProduction/240ZProduction.htm http://xenonzcar.com/s30/VIN.html FSM page GI-2...

That's not really how pressure works. Apparently, Nissan got rid of the liners for the turbo engines because they tend to break free and destroy the turbo. People do use the N47 head with turbos though. It's just a risk. As I understand things the flow obstructions are mostly on the intake side.

Just curious. How'd you break it?

Pretty sure I've read comments from guys that know suggesting that you mark the position of the nut before removing it then slowly work the nut back to that position when reassembling. Since the various metal parts will be the same after the seal is replaced it should give the same pinion shaft tension as before it was disassembled. If you took it apart without marking it you're in a bind.

I meant thicker shim above, not thinner. Sounds like you're on it anyway. Good luck.

If I recall right the shim contacts the bearing and the A dimension is how far the bearing sticks out. You're not shimming the cover, creating a gap, your shimming the bearing race to get a certain force. So the shim is meant to apply force to the bearing race, to keep it in place after expansion of the case. So, in your situation, you'd have a little extra force on the bearing race because your bearing is sticking out a bit far. Maybe give it a few more taps and see if it drives in farther. Might solve the dilemma. Otherwise, I think you'd actually want a thicker gasket. But that might affect your other dimensions. I've read that the racers often run a thinner shim to get more force on the counter bearing, to keep it in place when the transmission is really hot and expanded. Food for thought. That's how I remember things from back when I put one together. I could be completely wrong in my thinking. I also have a book on rebuilding transmissions and seem to remember some good info there too. From 82 ZX...

It might help you to read the early 280Z and 280ZX transmission chapters. I think that they have a different procedure but for the same purpose. I remember thinking that the purpose of the shim was to apply some preload to the bearing. The Z and ZX procedure seemed to make more sense. Hard to tell what the 240SX procedure means by "allowable clearance 0 - 0.16mm". They mixed the directions in their table, I think, and are using the word clearance instead of tolerance. Confusing.

Did you check the rod position? You'd think it would be centered between the studs but I think that some aren't.