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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Is your fan on a temperature switch or does it use a controller? Where is its sensor located. The fact that the temperature creeps up to 205 shows that you have a cooling problem. The thermostat is actually a heating device. It stays closed until coolant temperature reaches its set point. But the coolant has to flow past the thermostat in order for the thermostat to equilibrate to the same temperature. So you actually have two odd problems. Do you have your heater core bypassed? Maybe the pump isn't pushing enough coolant to heat up the thermostat, with the bypass, and also not pushing enough to cool the engine.
  2. NewZed
    If you're sure that everything is right then the only solution is to replace the pump. Because it went bad, it had to have gone bad. It must be the pump because you are positive that everything was right when you put it together and magic would be required for anything to change. See the logic problem? If you're positive, then the only thing left is a bad pump. Maybe try a different brand of pump.
  3. NewZed
    You already had one bad pump. Maybe you got another. Switching carbs won't fix a bad fuel pump. Have you confirmed a good power supply and good grounding? That's a very basic electrical component troubleshooting step. Are you running it deadheaded or using the return lines. Are the return lines open? Are you using a filter before the inlet? Does it flow enough to supply a gravity fed pump? Those inlet filters can cause a lot of problems. Doesn't seem like you've double-checked the basic stuff. It worked for a while you should be able to make it work again. If the pump's not designed to deadhead or if you're cavitating due to inlet restriction you can wear the pump out faster.
  4. NewZed
    Isn't this almost exactly how the last 8.8 project started? Deja vu...
  5. NewZed
    You know, it didn't work for my email. I see your @ but did not get an email. I think that notifications have to be set to get emails. You might send him a PM by hovering over his avatar.
  6. NewZed
    He was on zcar.com a few days ago. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/412105-brake-issues.html Does the @ function work on Hybridz? @NewZed @AlbatrossCafe Yours looks wrong. @cgsheen
  7. NewZed
    The brakes are completely separate from the differential. You could install a Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kia, etc. differential and not have to touch the brakes at all. At all, no bleeding, adjusting or anything, not even the parking brake.
  8. NewZed
    In the Nissan Factory Service Manual. It's from the days when people could read a page or more in one sitting. I'm a dinosaur.
  9. NewZed
    Stock to what? Nissan stock?
  10. NewZed
    Hasn't? Did you mean "has"? Is there a real problem, is the question. The system is designed to move and flex and dance around a bit. Is something breaking? Many people have found that the solid front diff mount is a mistake. You might be over-solidifying. Maybe go back to a more flexible front mount, like the RTZ style mount. In an endurance racer, driver comfort is a factor and having the diff solidly tied to the body could be am auditory torture device. Isolate the diff noise, let it move, let the u-joints get a little work-out (makes them last longer). Even the AZC billet mount uses PU bushing ends. If you fasten the the mustache bar to the dog bones you'll be at full metal jacket level.
  11. NewZed
    Somebody on this forum has a pretty nice 2+2. Maybe Careless? Can't tell. The new site software seems to have destroyed all information about members. http://forums.hybridz.org/profile/1767-careless/?tab=activity @Careless
  12. NewZed
    Aren't the simple answers "No, there isn't except that it will make disassembly difficult", and "why would you do that?". The easiest way to firm up the mustache bar is to use PU bushings on the ends. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4139
  13. NewZed
    Odd that a person would install a short-nose diff but with different internals. Why not put better guts in the long-nose R200 it came with? And I thought that AZC had pulled their short-nose diff setup for reworking, because it's hard to get the short-nose mounted firmly. Looks like a nice collection of parts though. "From the output shaft, the driveshaft spins up a Q45 R200 differential with a Tomei 1.5-way limited slip differential. " Here's a link to the info part - http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/11/gas-monkey-garage-goes-jdm/
  14. NewZed
    Here's the manual that I was thinking of. I get Jags That Run and John's mixed up. I think that somehow they are connected but not sure of the details. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Here also is another kit from a pretty reliable Z parts supplier. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic13 They probably jumped in to to fill the void when Broken Kitty dropped out. Most people are in love with the LSX swaps these days, even though the old small block swap has the bugs worked out and is pretty much a paint-by-numbers swap. Good luck.
  15. NewZed
    Sorry, I always miss the title information and focus on the post. Missed the 1976 in the title. There are a ton of options for you. Carbs and a distributor and a motor mount kit are pretty simple. Choice of transmission is a fairly big deal, any manual transmission can add a lot of cost. Choice of how to build the engine is not really related to the car. It's just an SBC thing. There's a book on this web site that most people recommend. Looks like the web site is pretty messed up though. Might be better to call. http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar.htm
  16. NewZed
    You didn't say what year Z you're getting. That will be a factor. And things have changed a lot since installing an MSD ignition system was significant. No offense. That's small potatoes though compared to the other work you'll need to do.
  17. NewZed
    The dimmer switch is the most common problem. Then a broken solder joint at the HL switch itself, on top of the steering column. There's also fuses.
  18. NewZed
    If you're using an extender to make it easier to reach the plugs, or a long hose, that will lower the pressure reading. The extender tube and/or the long hose effectively become part of the compression chamber, lowering the testing compression ratio. Nissan's 170 psi number is only valid if you're using their pressure measuring tool. They kind of screwed up by not mentioning that. If you look at their picture though, they're using the smallest connection volume between cylinder and gauge. so they get a high number.
  19. NewZed
    This seems to explain the inherently never-quite-smooth idle of the factory EFI system. Different cylinders see different injection timing. It's always bugged me. Maybe you could fabricate a small venturi in the ports and inject in to it so that the ITBs act more like a carburetor. JK.
  20. NewZed
    Did you fix the Hybridz image links? They work now, but they haven't for a while. Either way, they work. The Photobucket thing is a different problem. I meant that I could not type any text in to the message box when I was trying to send you a message. I had to fake it out and "choose file" of a picture of a message. Notice that there are no words in my message, just a picture of some words. Thanks for fixing the images, if you did.
  21. NewZed
    That's pretty cool, thanks for the info. It didn't fix the Hybridz owned images but it did fix the Photobucket image. Maybe Google is paying the third party fee and sharing. Peanuts for them. I used the first, top extension. BUT. It does not work in Incognito mode. Just have to open another Chrome window. And I thnik you left a step out - click "Add accessibility features", under "Accessibility", then the search box will be there.
  22. NewZed
    I'm kind of surprised that SuperDan didn't respond. It's in Site Support. I just sent him a message about it. Had to send him a picture of a message though because the message function now has problems. Hope he gets it.
  23. NewZed
    That would be just the propeller shaft, aka driveshaft. Nissan called the "half-shafts" driveshafts, and the driveshaft a propeller shaft. You'll need a new fuel pressure regulator also. If you're making a list. Might be best to do a lot of reading before spending. There are are many combinations of parts you can put together. Some sort of performance goal is a good thing to define, and put the parts together to hit it. Your list of parts probably won't feel much different than what you have now. For the money spent.
  24. NewZed
    Does 240Z driveline mean engine to diff? Or just transmission to diff? Or just transmission and driveshaft? The 280Z came with an electric fuel pump already for the stock EFI system. Nice looking car. Is this the "Stage 3" camshaft? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12e03/10-2003 There are many options out there. Some people say that you can go a lot "bigger" on the camshaft than you'd think. Search jmortensen's past threads. Here's an example -
  25. NewZed
    Edited. Sorry folks. I guess I've been spoiled because of the general high level of the site when I joined. It's not the same now. If you did figure it out, why didn't you share the solution? You've already discovered that it's a problem. That's really what the forums are for.
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