NewZed

Where did you get the thought that you need a resistor?

The bolts are supposed to be tightened with the car's weight on the suspension. He probably torqued them with the wheels hanging. Loosen them up, rock the car up and down, and retorque them. It's the factory procedure, described in the FSM. Looks like your tires are lower profile also. That will open up the gap too. The stock suspension sits pretty high, even with the stock tire size.

The front case that you installed on the 71C gears is from the 71B. It contains the clutch fork pivot ball. So as far as distances go for the clutch, everything works just like a 71B transmission. The throwout bearing collar has to match the pressure plate height. Not the transmission.

It's been a while but I seem to recall pounding one back and forth in the hole. Wears down the high spots. Can you pound that back in? Will seem like you're giving up ground but if it got there once it can get there again.

What engine management system are you using? If it uses a single coil to spark all cylinders then just running a wire from the coil's negative terminal to the tach should work, just like the 83 ZX uses. The diagrams are in the electrical chapter of the FSM. Circuit Diagrams.

What happened to the Members page? Trying to send a message.

I read the last page of that thread and it seems like they realized that they dropped the ball on communications. Seems like somebody could have let them know that there was an issue. They are "theguppies", right? Let's see if the "at" thing works. Are they a vendor on this site? Seems like that might help too. Can't really buy something from somebody who isn't available to take your order. @theguppies @NewZed

People cut the bushings also then use a drift or chisel to peel them out. I've found that force and heat will almost always do it. I've used it on the front control arm bushings, and various broken exhaust studs. The parts will not move if there's no heat. I've had the front control arm bushings set up in a vise, with various tube pieces or sockets and fixtures, not moving at all under high force, and watched them move as the heat was applied. I've had exhaust studs that would not budge unless heat was applied, and would stop turning as the manifold cooled down. Many people just can't comprehend the power of heat. They'll beat and hack and drill and pry before they'll get out the torch or heat gun. The expansion of the metals reduces the constrictive force. Don't know if that's the proper term but it's close. Did you spin the spindle pin while it had an end? If not you missed an opportunity. Forgot to say, I'd use the 12 ton press and some fixturing. The tool will probably break on your problem. It only works on the not-so-bad spindle pins. Many people break the tool.

A lug nut is the same thread as the spindle pin. You can use it to spin the pin to break up the rust and get the penetrant moving around inside and to beat on with a big hammer. I found also when removing mine that the pin actually was moving inside the strut casting but it was stuck in the sleeve of the rubber bushing. So each hammer blow would move it, then the rubber bushing would pull it back inside. It was deceiving. As for heat, I've found that heating up the casting will cause it to expand making the pin easier to move. Don't heat the pin, heat the casting. If you're not trying to save the pins, a sawzall will do the job.

Probably could have just said "no" and "no". There are most likely much more effective ways to maximize air flow and minimize pressure drop. As far as the K&N effectiveness issue, I just saw this on another forum - do the white glove test on the inlet piping after the K&N. See what's making it through. A white paper towel or cloth will probably do. I took off the inlet pipe on a vehicle I recently bought that still had the K&N sticker on the housing. The PO to me had already replaced the filter with a paper element. I was shocked at the amount of fine dust I found inside. It coated everything. It was so bad I'm not even sure that the filter housing was properly sealed. It's a Ford truck with the big clamp that often gets cocked or screwed up. I'll never know for sure.

Doesn't the heat come from compressing the air? More air to compress means more heat. The turbo only "works" on the air it sees. Less air = less work. Overall though, this is kind of a goofy topic. The pressure drop will increase with air quantity, flow, right? Besides that, engines don't really require anything. Not even sure what "require" means here. You have to define objectives before you can define requirements.

People are starting discussions topics in the FAQ area, but Replies are not allowed. Seems like the situation could be cleared up somehow. It's like a trap, where ideas go to die.

Typically, it's known for suppressing radio interference, buzzing, so it's not really necessary. I've used them to make my tach work right though. Electrical noise can cause problems. Looks like any alternator condenser would work. You can get them at the local auto parts store. Not a huge deal though. There are two #23's. One at the alternator and one at the coil. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/radio-stereo-clock/from-aug-76/23

Why not just fix it? It's a capacitor for reducing electrical noise. It has a purpose.

You can splice them. I'd use a butt connector and shrink tubing myself, but many people like soldering. The engine won't start because the blue wire is the signal to the EFI computer.

It's behind the rubber cork.

The Factory Service Manual has a whole chapter about disassembling the engine and checking the parts for wear. Nissan actually molded and machined indicators in to the timing components for that purpose. Most people do things like check cylinder pressure, record oil usage, examine spark plugs, etc to determine if their engine is worn. It's sounding like you might not have even had the engine running yet. Why would you spend time and money on something so unknown? You might be replacing high quality parts on an engine that's barely broken in, with sub-standard parts assembled by someone who has little experience. Put a list together of what you'll spend to "rebuild" the engine and you'll see that the sentence below doesn't really make sense. Spending your "swap" money on rebuilding an engine that's not worth keeping? Good luck. "But, i'll only swap for something more modern than an L series and i don't currently have the funds for it"

Which car? It might already have one.

Which ECU are you using? The 260Z's had carburetors, no ECU. If you transplanted an L20ET, then the car it came from would be where you could get that information, if you swapped the ECU also.

http://www.cometic.com/p-35444-automotive.html

You might be overthinking it. The headgasket has a soft surface designed to press in to slight imperfections. Your imperfection is less than slight.

What kind of racing?

It's just easier to get to the transmission bolts when it's out. The wrecking yards around my area all have very nice tall lifting derricks on wheels so it's easy to get the parts out as a unit. Might be easier to do just the engine. Play it by ear. Lift it halfway then remove the trans bolts. Attach the hoist before removing the last few bolts. Your biggest concern is all of that weight hanging. Just remembered also - make sure that you have the chain or cable to attach to the lift points on the engine, to attach their hoist to. Don't assume that they'll have what you need.

Hacksaw for exhaust pipes, various tubes, wires, etc. Good cutters for cables and wires. Vise-grips for those hard to reach and rounded off parts. A small sledge. Multiples of those wrenches and sockets. In case you lose one. It's a wrecking yard, don't worry too much about damaging things. We all hate finding those smashed up parts from the guys that got their first but odds are what you damage isn't going to be bought anyway. Pull the whole engine and transmission as a unit. Take it apart afterward. Leave the flywheel and clutch parts attached to the engine, only remove them if they try to charge you extra for them. Try to run through the process in your head and you'll probably think of a few more things.

I already said why I even got in to this thread. Don't overdo things. The internet is full of people one-upping the last recommendation. Recommending extreme measures. Maybe he should just tack the damper to the crank with a welder. I was surprised when you climbed on the Chickenman wagon. I thought you would be down with the more scientific and fact-based approach. All he needs is the right parts, cleaned up and installed correctly. Blue Loctite on cleaned threads is probably fine. Red Loctite on oily threads is probably not as good. It's the fine details that matter, not just slathering on some red Loctite.