NewZed

You haven't mentioned the different axle lengths, VLSD compared to open or or CLSD. The 280Z and 280ZX R200 axles will slide in to the 29 spline VLSD diffs but they won't actuate the VLSD unit, because they're not long enough. I bought a salvage yard J30 R200 just to see about what was possible with it. Somebody on the site did the same and made their own extended axle by welding an extension on to their 280Z R200 axle. He said it worked fine, but it seems sketchy. Worst case though, if his modified axle breaks, he just has an open diff with a stub floating around in it, contained. One more variable.

When you're looking at parts like this you should break it down in to subcomponents. Machining the races and balls for the joint is the most important part. It would not be surprising to find that everybody gets their joints from the same off-shore manufacturer. Who just copied the Posrsche 930 design or some other easy tripod or other "CV" design. The rest is just axles and splines and flanges. And, in that link with the video about "looseness" it's not even clear what the guy thinks he's talking about. Watch that video, at about 40 seconds, and you'll realize that he didn't show anything. He wiggled a tire and that's about it.

Never mind. Got trolled by a troll there for a few minutes. Carry on Leon. There's a few more fish out there.

If camber gain, shmamber gain isn't trolly, then what is? Certainly doesn't look like carefully chosen wording. Looks like fight picking. Bad blood from the past? JM seems very reasonable.

Nothing is guaranteed with reman parts but you can return them until you get a good one. Good luck.

It would run like that. If you have a similar box you could just swap the wires over. There might be ID marks on the terminals also to help out. Lots of options. Except that there's no Pertronix for a 280Z distributor, which is what you have there. The GM HEI module swap is pretty simple and it's more weather resistant. It would live in the engine bay. Disconnect the red and green wires and measure resistance on the distributor side. That's a test for the pickup coil. Check the air gap. See if the breaker plate bearings are good and the plate rotates for vacuum advance. It's all shown in a 280Z Engine Electrical chapter. Here's a HEI module swap guide. It's actually easier to just know that B is switched power, C is coil negative, G is the green wire from the dist., and W is the red one. And the module needs to be well grounded through the mounting holes. You don't need that ballast resistor or old 240Z coil either. http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/gmhei.html

He has a 240Z. Electronic ignition didn't show up in the Z's until the 260Z. That's somebody's upgrade.

Somebody has already converted to electronic ignition. That box is an ignition module but it's not clear which car it came from. Probably better off just springing $25 and converting to a GM HEI module. The old modules like that one are all dying anyway, plus that one is not supposed to be outside of the cabin. It's probably corroded inside. It looks like the wires are all correctly connected, assuming they were in the beginning. Two from the distributor, the coil wires, and a ground.. So either the module or the distributor pickups are bad. Your distributor is probably from a 280Z. Take the cap off and you won't see points.

You'll have excess blowby during the break in period until the rings seat. The oil gets thrown by the crankshaft. Did you remove the internal screen that covers the side port when you had the engine apart? Might be throwing the oil directly in to the tube. Since you're not using PCV you could just block that tube. Then the excess blowby will just come out the hole in the valve cover. Also, make sure that you didn't overfill with oil. Too much oil is bad, it will froth and foam.

The throwout bearing collar, or sleeve as Nissan calls it, has nothing at all to do with the type of transmission. They, the transmissions, are all the same, as far as the position of the clutch fork pivot ball. The sleeve must match the pressure plate and flywheel. Don't pay any attention to all of those lists and charts showing 4 speeds and 5 speeds and the various sleeves. They will send you the wrong way. Take the measurement from the flywheel surface to the ears of the collar. It's documented in several threads on this site and others. 92 mm. Put the transmission in to the gear for the switch you are worried about and measure resistance at the switch. Then put it in neutral and measure again. That will tell you if the switch is actuated by the gear that you've chosen. If you use a Z shifter to replace the ZX shifter, check that the base of the shifter doesn't interfere with the area that it inserts in to the control mechanism. This can cause it to not fully engage in 5th gear. A fairly common problem.

I just like to correct errors when I see them. It's not you, it's your errors.

You must be confusing the Blaster 2 with some other coil. MSD advertises it for use even with points. Can't get much more inductive than that. It's just a plain old coil with red paint, and a bit lower primary circuit resistance. Probably requires less dwell than the Nissan coil. https://www.msdperformance.com/products/coils/performance_street/parts/8202

I have a bar but no bushings. It's used, from a 1978 parts car. Which side of WA are you on. Dry or wet? Edit - just noticed Walla Walla. So, shipping probably required.

You need a conversion flange or adapter on the wheel side to bolt the CV shaft to. The splined end will slide and clip in to your R200 diff, if you use a Datsun CV shaft. One choice you need to make is about the CV shaft. It's pretty well documented that the 300ZX CLSD shafts are too long. So if you choose that option you need to buy CV shafts also. Or you can try to find 280ZXT shafts, which seem to fit with no modifications. Or you can get Porsche 930 style CV shafts, but that requires a different conversion axle or adapter. In the end, after all of the money and time, you won't have much better strength or performance (smoothness) than the stock u-joint shafts. But many people do it. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://zcardepot.com/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/datsun

Do the swaps one at a time also or you might not know which swap is causing problem, voltmeter or alternator.

The diode goes on the L wire. Are you sure the Speedhut meter doesn't have a charge warning light? Either way, you should be able to use the typical 240Z alt swap wiring instructions. But, it's actually pretty simple. Study what the S and L wires actually do, and just wire according to function.

Where did you get the thought that you need a resistor?

The bolts are supposed to be tightened with the car's weight on the suspension. He probably torqued them with the wheels hanging. Loosen them up, rock the car up and down, and retorque them. It's the factory procedure, described in the FSM. Looks like your tires are lower profile also. That will open up the gap too. The stock suspension sits pretty high, even with the stock tire size.

The front case that you installed on the 71C gears is from the 71B. It contains the clutch fork pivot ball. So as far as distances go for the clutch, everything works just like a 71B transmission. The throwout bearing collar has to match the pressure plate height. Not the transmission.

It's been a while but I seem to recall pounding one back and forth in the hole. Wears down the high spots. Can you pound that back in? Will seem like you're giving up ground but if it got there once it can get there again.

What engine management system are you using? If it uses a single coil to spark all cylinders then just running a wire from the coil's negative terminal to the tach should work, just like the 83 ZX uses. The diagrams are in the electrical chapter of the FSM. Circuit Diagrams.

What happened to the Members page? Trying to send a message.

I read the last page of that thread and it seems like they realized that they dropped the ball on communications. Seems like somebody could have let them know that there was an issue. They are "theguppies", right? Let's see if the "at" thing works. Are they a vendor on this site? Seems like that might help too. Can't really buy something from somebody who isn't available to take your order. @theguppies @NewZed

People cut the bushings also then use a drift or chisel to peel them out. I've found that force and heat will almost always do it. I've used it on the front control arm bushings, and various broken exhaust studs. The parts will not move if there's no heat. I've had the front control arm bushings set up in a vise, with various tube pieces or sockets and fixtures, not moving at all under high force, and watched them move as the heat was applied. I've had exhaust studs that would not budge unless heat was applied, and would stop turning as the manifold cooled down. Many people just can't comprehend the power of heat. They'll beat and hack and drill and pry before they'll get out the torch or heat gun. The expansion of the metals reduces the constrictive force. Don't know if that's the proper term but it's close. Did you spin the spindle pin while it had an end? If not you missed an opportunity. Forgot to say, I'd use the 12 ton press and some fixturing. The tool will probably break on your problem. It only works on the not-so-bad spindle pins. Many people break the tool.

A lug nut is the same thread as the spindle pin. You can use it to spin the pin to break up the rust and get the penetrant moving around inside and to beat on with a big hammer. I found also when removing mine that the pin actually was moving inside the strut casting but it was stuck in the sleeve of the rubber bushing. So each hammer blow would move it, then the rubber bushing would pull it back inside. It was deceiving. As for heat, I've found that heating up the casting will cause it to expand making the pin easier to move. Don't heat the pin, heat the casting. If you're not trying to save the pins, a sawzall will do the job.