NewZed

Don't overlook the non-Japanese brands. BMW, GM, Volvo, Saab...all have used EV1 plugs. This source has a pretty good selection to choose from, with data. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

If you're replacing with aftermarket inserts like KYB or Tokico you don't need the o-ring. The original factory design contains the oil in the strut tube but aftermarket is self-contained.

Still there. They reformatted the site to make it more difficult to find things. You have to wait a second for the tiny menu bar to load then intuitively hover and click your way to the info. nicoclub.com has them also. They've maintained the original primitive site, after you click your way thoguh a couple of modern looking pages.' http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Don't overlook that large portions of Megasquirt are really for electronics engineer-nerd types, not car guys. PWM and low Z, and flyback, and resistors, and soldering...high impedance simplifies a lot. Search down to "flyback" and nerd-out - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb

The internal path to the thermostat is still there, right? I thought that the point of this was to removed dead flow zones, hot spots. So, total flow is maintained, but there's a side current introduced. Seems like flow control valves in each port might help, to balance flow. To avoid creating a dead zone somewhere else..

You should be using the Megamanual. You can trigger the MS system using the negative post of the coil, just like the factory system does. Here's a couple of pages that cover what you need and other stuff. You don't need a 240SX throttle body. You might be thinking of a throttle position sensor but you don't need that either. You already have a throttle body. Click the blue links for details. http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mintro.htm#applic Here's a mention of triggering from the coil - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

So it is the CV axle? Sorry Rebekahz I was wrong there. I didn't look far enough down the picture. So, maybe he just needs a new axle. I haven't really added to the potential solution discussion.

MS is probably more difficult to get working than the stock system, so if you couldn't figure out the stock system MS won't make your life easier. MS will run your engine better, but the stock EFI system is so basic it's essentially a tutorial on how EFI works, in general.

What's "fuku" mean?

What are the Nisan axles made from? And "chromoly" is a vague term that covers a range of steel formulations. If it's 4130, just call it 4130. And without the heat history, the final properties can't be known. A couple of Hybridz members have had heat treatment issues in the past. Just saying, know what you're actually working with, if you can. https://www.onlinemetals.com/productguides/alloysteelguide.cfm

You can see the circlip slot, so it's the differential side. Looks like a stock 4 hole 300ZX turbo axle. The only difference to Joe's kit then is "chromoly" (whatever that might actually mean) over whatever material and heat treatment Nissan used. Never seen any actual evidence that the chromoly is actually stronger. Nissan's part might be "chromoly". Too bad he can't just get the CV axle end in chromoly since that's the broken part. If chromoly is actually better.

Joe's "930 deal" doesn't show on either of his links. The internet is boon and bane, you have to learn how to use it. Interesting break point for j1jz, right in the middle of the splines. The stress riser must have been the edge of the CV female spline. I've wondered before why people don't massage their axles like they do their connecting rods. Get rid of sharp edges, shot peen. polish, all of that. It's all about stress distribution. Edit - I found the page. Bu t it doesn't really answer the questions. Internet ........ http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html

What kind of force do you think that shift to 3rd generated? I can see how the diff nose lifts since the halfshafts are perpendicular, but not really seeing a lifting or dropping force on the tail of the transmission from shifting. Everything is rotating longitudinally. And the forward engine mounts should stop the twisting. Just trying to understand the forces. I mentioned mass and inertia in my reply, relative to bumps. There was a similar topic recently about engines moving forward and hitting the radiator. But it wasn't clear if they were tilting forward and just damaging the top of the radiator (a clue), or if the whole engine and transmission were moving forward on the same plane.

You can probably lift the transmission off of the mount with one hand. It's just mass times inertia. Hit a bump and there's more down-force, so it depends on how you drive it. There's probably also some up-force. When you hit the brakes the engine will try to pivot forward on its mounts, creating lift at the transmission tail. I seem to recall that the early Vega V8 swaps had problems with the engine rocking on its engine mounts.

It seems that many engine builds are just taking the easy operations out of a list of operations for a very thorough, "complete" performance build. Might be more effective to extract the things that have the most impact and focus on those, instead of the easy stuff. For example, port work on the head is probably much more impactful than shaving the head. The pros mill the head as part of the complete job, but would probably rather have a ported head than a faction of a point increase in CR.

You should post your MS setting, and/or a screenshot of all settings, and readings from the meters, if you can. You'll get more better responses sooner.

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=300zx/1989/PD

Yes, and you don't need anything to do the flange swap. Some people do the seal while the flange is out anyway. You can't do the bearings without taking the whole thing apart. Pages PD-4 and 5 have some good stuff.

He implies that he had the CAS in his first post, talking about the 360 slots. Maybe he's unsure of what he actually has. The DIY wheel won't do him much good on a matchbox distributor.

I'm no expert at tuning MS, I just know that you should be able to tune around the fuel pressure. I do know a little about data and calculations though and wonder if you're not depending too much on calculated numbers instead of what your eyes, ears, and nose are telling you. According to this link VE is the result of an equation, using MAP and AFR readings as inputs. So with a bad AFR number you can't use VE numbers to tune.. The calculations are only as good as the data used for them. If you're using a separate O2 sensor for MS, maybe it's damaged. Either way, VE is calculated using two variables, either of which could be incorrect. When you're having problems like this you should always check your inputs. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm

Maybe it's just a bad AFR meter.

That's stated in the reference. And now you're writing in vague terms. Really-bad? We're trying to be specific, I thought. It's a convenience but it shouldn't be causing the complete inability to get his engine running well. To the limit of the limited dynamic range. He's running stock turbo injectors. Kind of raises another question - how rich is rich? He never really said.

The things that have been suggested are very well known, several to many threads are on this site about any one of them, and easy to check and fix. That's the basic point. This thread is kind of like an engine that we're waiting on to warm up so that it will start running right. And really, we're mainly here for the puzzle, and a reason to go look at old information. Looking back over the whole thing, you have to wonder if it's not just a bad gauge. If you don't have fuel leaking in to the vacuum line, then the only thing that's really the most problematic to work around is the lack of correct pressure correction from the vacuum hose. But even that shouldn't be an issue if you're using a MAP sensor, I think. As long as it's consistent. If it's consistent then you can just change the injector times based on your MAP signal. Circling around to the beginning - is there really a problem here, besides tuning MS? There doesn't seem to be one. One thing you might do is make a table of fuel pressure versus MAP reading and see if it's consistent under a variety of conditions. If it it's not consistent then you'll have problems. If it is then there's really no physical/mechanical problem to be fixed that's going to make tuning easier. You'll be in the same boat with the new parts. Here's a reference about FPR's and MS. They're not essential (he contradicts himself in the text, kind of funny) but they make life easier. But you can tune around the lack of vacuum correction. Way down at the bottom. http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb

Never mind, softopz already linked it. That rat's nest of version numbers they have going is incredible...

Have you looked through the DIY site? - https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ Or the Hybridz threads - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/93-megasquirt/ If you don't even know how to get power to the harness, you have a very long path ahead of you. You should start your own thread so people can add to it. This is Fric Frac's sale thread. Click "Start New Topic" in the link below and tell people what you're trying to do, describing the car and engine and other details. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/34-megasquirt/