NewZed

Oops. That's the Mega documentation for you. These discussions all need good definitions of terms as they proceed otherwise people think that they're talking about the same things when they're not. There was a conversation about sequential ignition a while back that made little sense to me, since a spark out of sequence really isn't worth much. But the word was used to distinguish from wasted-spark. Which is still sequential where it matters.

Links without words attached aren't really worth much. No offense. Here's one that offers about as much, maybe more actually than the MSextra link - https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=sequential About the same as posting the word "search". Edit - point being, what's in that msextra link that is relevant?

Here's how the factory defines it. Literally, the word only means that injection happens in order, or sequence, of cylinder actions. Doesn't say anything at all about when injection happens, within a complete cycle. But each cylinder sees the same type of charge; well-blended, inhomogeneous, straight in to the open intake port, or whatever. Unlike batch where the cylinders see a different type of charge since there are six possibilities, each cylinder seeing two of the possibilities.

This thread covers a lot - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ Worrying about whether the distributor in your seized engine is still good and the clean look of COP shows a little bit of unfocus. For the money you're spending on other parts you could consider one of the damper mounted sensors. Probably more dependable, maybe cheaper in the long run. And a clean look. Looks like you're still early in planning. DIYA has tried to make sense of the mess of options and MS variations. Even they get sucked in to a vortex of possibilities but still worth reading their articles - https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/

As I understand things, sequential was devised almost solely for emissions purposes. Probably gives a smoother idle too.

Nice. Hope it keeps working for you. You were doing all the right things.

The Nissan u-joints are very high quality, precise and accurate machine parts. A 100,000 mile Nissan u-joint with the proper thickness retaining clips is probably tighter than a brand new parts store u-joint. Don't assume that new is better. Those Nissan joints are good stuff.

Everything in 35 looks right. You didn't show that you have a good grounding of the case though. And you didn't show the values with the engine running. But the measurements shown look correct.Not sure what's happening.

There doesn't seem to be much point except confirming that it started life as an L28. You know that "stoker" means the crankshaft has been replaced with a longer stroke crankshaft, right? Often bored over-size too, to increase displacement even more. And pistons replaced. Unless you're actually trying to say that you got a spare engine with the car which makes the striker stuff irrelevant. The N42 block was used in 1979 ZX's.. Maybe some 1980's (not sure, 80 seems to be a transition year for other parts too, ,like transmissions), before they switched to the F54. Beside that, a matching transmission doesn't tell you where the engine started life. I've had four different transmissions and two engines in my car. They mix and match.

Apply power and confirm pressure. Isolate.

Since you did say earlier that you saw battery voltage at the bottom leg of the T plug and everything else looks good here's something that happened to me a few years ago - the T plug connector was loose and dirty. It wasn't making electrical contact. I found that I could wiggle it to a new spot and the alternator would start charging again. It was an odd thing. A quick squeeze with some needle-nose pliers fixed it. Make sure the T plug is making good contact with the alternator terminals.

And all of your measurements in Post #25 look correct. Your comment in #26 doesn't fit what you saw. Everything looks fine. BUT. You didn't show the measurements at the T plug.

It seems to me, based on the way you're writing, that you might not really understand how to measure voltage. No offense. But your word usage is not the way a person experienced in these things would write. Voltage is not gotten. It just exists across points in a potential circuit. " earth on the alternator is getting 12v from the positive on the battery". It looks like you put one probe on E and the other on the battery positive terminal and saw 12. That would be a correct reading for proper wiring.

Are you sure that there is continuity to the battery positive post from the alternator's charging wire, the BAT terminal? Follow the path. You can test if it's charging by measuring between the BAT terminal and ground, directly from the back of the alternator. You can test continuity by measuring battery voltage at the BAT terminal directly with the engine not running and key off. The BAT terminal is always connected to the battery positive post, normally. Did you check those fusible links yet? You might just stop, now that you've been working on this problem for a while, and think about how the system works, and what should be connected to what. Could be that you've been assuming that the charge wire is connected to the battery, but it's not.

Seems like the only information you might get would be if it's flat-tops or dished, or if it's a turbo block or not. But since it's a stroker, the crankshaft and pistons have been out so the first is irrelevant. The second might be knowable, but that number is lower than my 1976 number 71155 so, if it is an L28 it's probably a 75 or 76 N42 block. Nissan put the engine number on the ID plate by the strut tower, up to about 76-77.

We've overlooked one of the basics of most Z and ZX alternators, especially the parts store remans - they don't put out much current at low RPM. Did you rev the engine and check voltage? If you have battery voltage at the L terminal (the bottom of the T) the alternator should charge if it's spinning and nothing is drawing it down. Your battery is getting low, 12.4 means it at about 70% and needs a charge, and it might be drawing all of the current if you're doing your voltage checks at idle RPM. If you give it a rev and it still doesn't charge, have it checked at a parts store. Parts store remans aren't known for high quality, generally. Your wiring seems right. It should work.

That's the condenser. And the charging wire (withe with red stripe). The battery cable is the one that goes from the battery to the start lug. It's big and thick. Like a cable. Just connect it like it's shown in the picture. To the BAT terminal. The wire end of the condenser connects to positive, the body to Earth/ground. E. It is there to absorb electrical noise. Don't leave the blue wire coming out of the harness disconnected because it might short to ground. Hopefully it hasn't already. Check your fusible links while you're in the engine bay. To be sure you didn't short something and blow a link.

1975 doesn't show a blue wire but 1976 does. Use your meter to find the switched power wire. You might have 76 colors in your 75. Nissan changed things on the fly sometimes. And what does "battery connector for the alternator" mean? Doesn't paint a picture.

The wire connects to the thick charging wire. You should always check your work with a meter if you can. It will save you a lot of time. If you don't have battery voltage at the T plug with the key on, work back in the wiring until you find the problem. The 1975 wiring diagrams will help you also. The Engine Electrical chapter has small specific diagrams so you don't have to use the big one.

If L doesn't get power with the key on the alternator won't charge. Do you have a meter? Is your ammeter connected? Have you had the car long? Did the old external regulator system work? Why did you decide to do the swap? Is the alternator body grounded? The thing is called a condenser. The body is grounded and the wire is connected to the main charging wire.

The twisted piece with the hole in it looks non-stock. You might edit your title to something descriptive like "What is this bracket by the diff strap for - 1973 240Z:".

Which one? Provide a link.

Sounds like you used a short TOB collar with a newer short pressure plate. Any 225mm pressure plate from 70 - 83 will bolt on to your flywheel. Who knows what the spring/lever height is... Look at Post 23. With all of the possibilities out there if you don't measure you have to get lucky.

Your Google-fu is strong. What's your objective? Derek did some good stuff with ITB's and EFI. Search his posts and you will be closer to the grasshopper..

Your questions are a decent step in to the world of EFI but yes, they are a bit odd. A great starting point to learn about EFI is the Engine Fuel chapter of the 1975-1978 FSM's. They give a very fundamental explanation of EFI because they were the first years of EFI for Nissan. Seriosuly, download the 1976 FSM and read the Engine Fuel chapter. On spark, there are many possibilities, but much of the very complex systems are really designed for emissions purposes, not performance. The performance benefit to cost ratio isn't great for anyhting beyond a fairly modern electronic igntion system. The Pertronix system is an early electronic system that has survived the years, But there are simpler, chepaer ways to get a good stronger spark. ZX distributors, GM HEI modules, MSD setups, etc. If you want to make a big jump in to EFI, read up on Megasquirt. The Megamanual is random and complex but there are some good writeups on different manufacturers' systems that can be very educational. But you can get lost in there too. Keep reading and posting focused questions and a path will show itself. Good luck.