NewZed

You can't see the green, red, black, and white in Chickenman's picture, and where they go in to the distributor plug? I could spell it out in ABCD easily. He said what did what, as did cgsheen. It's all laid out in color, on a platter, with silver and a napkin. You need to be able to work from what's here in this post, at the least, if you want to do Megasquirt.

Is that view of the bottom from the top or the bottom? If it's a CAS you're working with, cgsheen has posted by wire color several times. Beside the output there's also an input. Here's a bunch - https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=site:hybridz.org+cgsheen+cas+wiring&* And here's one - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123254-cas-question-5v-in-harness/

Thanks. $1000 + 42 shipping ($1042) versus $825. Not bad. Now start the new Vendor's thread and the path to how to get one and how much it costs is clear.

Actually, there should be a new Vendor's Forum thread. This is not technically a group buy anymore if he's selling them individually, by PM. But, problematically, asking price must be listed in For Sale threads. I'm not shitting here, I'm just asking what that smell is. How much did you pay?

Who are you responding to? Overall, I just try to battle poor communication. I like things to be clear. I made a simple comment about the thread seeming dead, because I sent somebody over to it then realized he might not even get a response, and exlife dragged up his old hurt feelings from way back and wrote like an ass. He could have said "you're right, I haven't been keeping the thread up to date, thank you!". That was the response i was hoping for. I helped make things clear back in the beginning so that people could feel confident that he had something real to offer. He can't see that through his inflated opinion of himself. He does a poor job of communicating what he's about. And I think he's one the edge of the group buy idea. He's not organizing group buys so that he and others get a better price, he's organizing so that he can make a profit. He's a reseller, here to make some money. He's not doing this out of the goodness of his heart. And, like Sensa Pari from the past, he could organize a large group buy, take the money, and disappear. What's to stop him? I was in early with comments on that mess also. You and TONY C write like fanboys, who seem to have problems understanding how things have developed. I don't think that either of you read the whole thread so don't really know what you're responding to. MFactory lists an R200 LSD for $999.95, while the other comparable diffs are $749.95. But the "fitment notes" on the R200 page are for Honda and BMW. More poor communication. Overall, this whole thing is kind of foggy and unclear. But if the savings is worth the risk of losing all of your money, then take a shot. That's what a group buy is supposed to be, spend X dollars now, or get a group together and spend less later. What's missing here are the numbers. There you go, that's clarity. If we knew how much people saved, we'd have enough information for people to make a proper decision instead of having to please some mysterious middleman with a bad attitude. http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/mfactory/helical-lsd/Nissan http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/partno/MF-TRS-05R200

Actually, thinking a little more, I think I see what you have going. Your "group buys" give you a volume discount from MFactory. You mark up some over the MFactory price and make some profit. So, if a person doesn't want to wait for the group number to be reached, they can go directly to MFactory and get it now for a higher price. That's what I've been trying to figure out - what's so special about this thread. And all it is is a lower cost. A few more posts and we should how much people are saving by waiting. Thanks for getting this going with MFactory. It actually is a good idea. Glad I don't have to deal with you to get one though.

I can't actually stop a thread. I'm only clandestine. Really, I was just trying to get you to see that you're losing some potential customers by not being open and proactive, and letting people know that they're available and how to get one. The thread looks barely alive to me. If you're fine with how things are and sales are good enough, then I'll just suggest OBX or Whitehead. Some of these guys seem to like you but I think you're riding the laurels of introducing one new product and selling a few diffs. Good luck with it. I'll leave you alone. The thing about not advertising below MSRP but being able to sell below MSRP sounds like nonsense. Like rating a drivetrain part to 1000 HP. That's been discussed.

Where's the reply to Curtball? He doesn't seem to be following up. Post 74 and 77 imply that something's happening but no details. How much does it cost, are there are any available, is another group buy required. etc? I just don't like sending people to a black hole, that's all. Should be pretty easy to get some information out here.

It's not a "restore" if you're putting a turbo engine in it. Isn't the last engine the obvious choice? Designed for a turbo. The other part of using those pistons is if they're over-size or standard. If the block you choose needs to be bored you'll need pistons of the right size. Something to consider. With Megasquirt you can use a turbo on any of those engines, and tune to make it work. So, picking the highest quality engine might be the most effective way to go.

This is just a bad focal point for an engine build. You'll be spending a lot more money on other parts, maybe more in the long run trying to build around a set of pistons. It's more of a piston build then an engine build. Unless they have sentimental value, you might be better off to design an engine then see if the pistons fit it.

I've seen a few people looking for an LSD R200 diff and thought about sending them here. But the thread seems dead. Doesn't seem to be any effort to sell them. Maybe contact MFactory directly, if exlifesaver's venture is over? Is this still a thing, or not?

You're right. I have what i think are factory original 78 shims and they don't have those bent over tabs. Maybe they broke off or maybe Nissan or aftermarket put them on later. They're just there for installation convenience, without them the shims try to slip down before you can get the pins through. Not really a difficult task without the tabs though.

Did you change the plug? What's the gap? Electricity takes the easiest path. Might have a bad resistor in a resistor plug or a wide gap.

What year? What part seems to be hindering the closing? Could be the latch just isn't fully springing open. Have you worked the mechanism on the door with ti open to see how it works? You'll see how what could be sticking. . If you've already done these things you should write them. Not much detail to work with otherwise.

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer? I think that Courtesy pulls from the same general inventory of parts. Just people that know where to look. If your local store has a good parts department they might be able to find them. Might try eBay too.

I see. The sentence above made me think that you had just done some mods. One day it started to have problems is a good clue that something was working and stopped. Could still be a head gasket, or a stuck thermostat, or a coolant flow blockage. The "one day' part does imply that it's not a gauge or an air bubble causing the problem. It would be something that can happen to a system that's working properly, some sort of failure. Helps narrow the focus.

No offense but we really just want a "yes" or a "no" for this question. If it was working but it's not now then you can focus on what you changed. If it was never working right and you added the fans to try to fix a problem maybe you're looking in the wrong place. If you don't know if it was ever right then you have a potential can of who knows what kind of worms to mess with.

This question never got answered. Could be the old "I really want my new parts to work so I'll ignore the past" syndrome. "It can't be the new fans". p.s. I think that should be electric fans. The old fan is also mechanical. Side note - if mechanical why not electrical. Electrical fans. Doesn't sound right but maybe it is.

Leaking clutch slave cylinder = poor disengagement = inability to easily get in to reverse without grinding = angry driver forcing through the grind = chipped reverse gears.

Do lots of research. Start with the basics of how internal internal combustion engines work then move on to electronic fuel injection. No offense. Your assumption shows that you don't know how engines work. Again, no offense. You're just way behind where you want to be to do your own car work.

Could be an almost dead battery, or a bad alternator, or both.

This guy was going to do one. Don't know where he ended up with it. You could send him a message. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/352-240hoke/ http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-350z-6-speed-adapter/ Edit - his Facebook page says they should have been ready by December. Scroll down to November 11. Facebook sucks for running a business. https://www.facebook.com/hokeperformance

Maybe spend a little more time on getting good evidence. You didn't give a number on "creeping up" from 180. 185 or 205? Give it some high load testing, like a few acceleration on-ramps and see how bad things get. If it stops at the same point and never overheats, you might be just nervous about nothing. Blown head gaskets are a fairly common cause of overheating, I believe. If everything else checks out, give it a test.

At speed on the street the fans should be mostly ineffective. Fans are for no or low speed. Of course, if they were installed in a way that blocks flow across the radiator, there could be a problem. The bubbles shouldn't be there though, after a few heat/cool cycles. It should just be fluid getting pushed and pulled from the overflow bottle.

Just a guess but it sounds like a mild head gasket leak. Exhaust gases are leaking in to the coolant channels. The bubbles and gases reduce the cooling ability and your temperatures go up under engine load. I haven't used them but I've heard that you can get a test kit at the auto parts store that will identify exhaust byproducts in the coolant. And your overlfow bottle should be vented to atmosphere so the "raising the bottle" to get the air out doesn't really matter. Probably good that you have a clear hose though so that you can see the bubbles.