NewZed

site:hybridz.org "site" plus a colon then the site name.

Sounds like what you're really talking about is ring gear runout. There's an assumption made, I think, that runout is small compared to backlash, so it's inconsequential. I don't think that the ring gear will deform permanently, but it might take the shape of the surface it's bolted to. Maybe remove the ring gear and measure runout of the other surface. Or loosen the ring gear and see if you can move it to where runout is low. At least you'll know the gear is right. Isolate the various components, the bearings, the gear, the carrier, etc., take measurements and see where the variance comes from. Take a bunch of measurements before you tear it down. I'm just spitballing, I've not been in to a diff that deep.

Still curious about a couple of things. You never really explained what you meant by "piggybacked". Everyone is answering MS questions but what's the original ECU doing? Is it connected to anything? Does it even come on to play in this thread? Secondly - does "baggedgoods" refer to marijuana? It does, right?

Just having some fun. I'd focus on what happened in the few weeks after the above. You had it in your hands, and it got away somehow. It "sat" only? You timed the engine, shut it down, went about other business for a few weeks then it ran like you never fixed anything? Did you do any stuff that "couldn't possibly be part of the problem"?

Sounds interesting but you're probably squaring your problems, not doubling them. Good luck. Probably going to be slow for sure.

CM's right, MS isn't designed as a piggyback system. How did you even decide to try that? You're inputs and outputs are all whacked out, who knows what's controlling what.

If you're lumping all of the individual suggestions in to one big IT then you probably didn't really use most of them. You wasted the time of everyone who posed there. You should try new fuel like morbias says, and also hive the engine a general tune, with new plugs, etc. You need a good solid baseline to start from. I'd also avoid jumping to unwarranted conclusions. Like why would the ballast or coil go bad all of a sudden? It ran well, think about what could change over a "few weeks". "Did compression test 168 psi across the board, found plug wire 3 and 4 swapped from prior owner, RAN GOOD for a while in garage HAD SMOOTH IDLE and I was able to set timing. Let car sit for a few weeks and then started it and it ran like crap again and backfired, I thought maybe a bad balast resistor,points or coil, " A "spudder" is a person who works with potatoes.

MS must be doing something, if you're actually seeing a timing mark and it moves with RPM. Like CM implies, the distributor (actually the CAS) doesn't control anything. You could set your timing tables all to the same number,no change, and see if the mark stays steady with RPM.

So the question is about how to wire in a Honda push-button starter? The oil pressure safety switch is the hardest part for me, the rest seems functional. The safety switch looks like it's supposed to cut ignition but you show a hot wire directly from the ignition switch, bypassing the oil switch. Can't figure out what function it would have. It's also connected the the starter solenoid, for some reason. Most safety switches get bypassed at Start. Maybe I'm missing the meaning of the C and the NO and the NC. I'm not an electrical expert, just another layman's view. Edit - forgot to say, that is some nice illustration work. Pro?

Sorry for the bluntness. Then internet is a poor communication medium. Good luck.

You can't see the green, red, black, and white in Chickenman's picture, and where they go in to the distributor plug? I could spell it out in ABCD easily. He said what did what, as did cgsheen. It's all laid out in color, on a platter, with silver and a napkin. You need to be able to work from what's here in this post, at the least, if you want to do Megasquirt.

Is that view of the bottom from the top or the bottom? If it's a CAS you're working with, cgsheen has posted by wire color several times. Beside the output there's also an input. Here's a bunch - https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=site:hybridz.org+cgsheen+cas+wiring&* And here's one - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123254-cas-question-5v-in-harness/

Thanks. $1000 + 42 shipping ($1042) versus $825. Not bad. Now start the new Vendor's thread and the path to how to get one and how much it costs is clear.

Actually, there should be a new Vendor's Forum thread. This is not technically a group buy anymore if he's selling them individually, by PM. But, problematically, asking price must be listed in For Sale threads. I'm not shitting here, I'm just asking what that smell is. How much did you pay?

Who are you responding to? Overall, I just try to battle poor communication. I like things to be clear. I made a simple comment about the thread seeming dead, because I sent somebody over to it then realized he might not even get a response, and exlife dragged up his old hurt feelings from way back and wrote like an ass. He could have said "you're right, I haven't been keeping the thread up to date, thank you!". That was the response i was hoping for. I helped make things clear back in the beginning so that people could feel confident that he had something real to offer. He can't see that through his inflated opinion of himself. He does a poor job of communicating what he's about. And I think he's one the edge of the group buy idea. He's not organizing group buys so that he and others get a better price, he's organizing so that he can make a profit. He's a reseller, here to make some money. He's not doing this out of the goodness of his heart. And, like Sensa Pari from the past, he could organize a large group buy, take the money, and disappear. What's to stop him? I was in early with comments on that mess also. You and TONY C write like fanboys, who seem to have problems understanding how things have developed. I don't think that either of you read the whole thread so don't really know what you're responding to. MFactory lists an R200 LSD for $999.95, while the other comparable diffs are $749.95. But the "fitment notes" on the R200 page are for Honda and BMW. More poor communication. Overall, this whole thing is kind of foggy and unclear. But if the savings is worth the risk of losing all of your money, then take a shot. That's what a group buy is supposed to be, spend X dollars now, or get a group together and spend less later. What's missing here are the numbers. There you go, that's clarity. If we knew how much people saved, we'd have enough information for people to make a proper decision instead of having to please some mysterious middleman with a bad attitude. http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/mfactory/helical-lsd/Nissan http://www.teammfactory.com/catalog/partno/MF-TRS-05R200

Actually, thinking a little more, I think I see what you have going. Your "group buys" give you a volume discount from MFactory. You mark up some over the MFactory price and make some profit. So, if a person doesn't want to wait for the group number to be reached, they can go directly to MFactory and get it now for a higher price. That's what I've been trying to figure out - what's so special about this thread. And all it is is a lower cost. A few more posts and we should how much people are saving by waiting. Thanks for getting this going with MFactory. It actually is a good idea. Glad I don't have to deal with you to get one though.

I can't actually stop a thread. I'm only clandestine. Really, I was just trying to get you to see that you're losing some potential customers by not being open and proactive, and letting people know that they're available and how to get one. The thread looks barely alive to me. If you're fine with how things are and sales are good enough, then I'll just suggest OBX or Whitehead. Some of these guys seem to like you but I think you're riding the laurels of introducing one new product and selling a few diffs. Good luck with it. I'll leave you alone. The thing about not advertising below MSRP but being able to sell below MSRP sounds like nonsense. Like rating a drivetrain part to 1000 HP. That's been discussed.

Where's the reply to Curtball? He doesn't seem to be following up. Post 74 and 77 imply that something's happening but no details. How much does it cost, are there are any available, is another group buy required. etc? I just don't like sending people to a black hole, that's all. Should be pretty easy to get some information out here.

It's not a "restore" if you're putting a turbo engine in it. Isn't the last engine the obvious choice? Designed for a turbo. The other part of using those pistons is if they're over-size or standard. If the block you choose needs to be bored you'll need pistons of the right size. Something to consider. With Megasquirt you can use a turbo on any of those engines, and tune to make it work. So, picking the highest quality engine might be the most effective way to go.

This is just a bad focal point for an engine build. You'll be spending a lot more money on other parts, maybe more in the long run trying to build around a set of pistons. It's more of a piston build then an engine build. Unless they have sentimental value, you might be better off to design an engine then see if the pistons fit it.

I've seen a few people looking for an LSD R200 diff and thought about sending them here. But the thread seems dead. Doesn't seem to be any effort to sell them. Maybe contact MFactory directly, if exlifesaver's venture is over? Is this still a thing, or not?

You're right. I have what i think are factory original 78 shims and they don't have those bent over tabs. Maybe they broke off or maybe Nissan or aftermarket put them on later. They're just there for installation convenience, without them the shims try to slip down before you can get the pins through. Not really a difficult task without the tabs though.

Did you change the plug? What's the gap? Electricity takes the easiest path. Might have a bad resistor in a resistor plug or a wide gap.

What year? What part seems to be hindering the closing? Could be the latch just isn't fully springing open. Have you worked the mechanism on the door with ti open to see how it works? You'll see how what could be sticking. . If you've already done these things you should write them. Not much detail to work with otherwise.

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer? I think that Courtesy pulls from the same general inventory of parts. Just people that know where to look. If your local store has a good parts department they might be able to find them. Might try eBay too.