NewZed

Some people enlarge the manifold hole, some people devise a sealing method that works with the stock holes. With a turbo the sealing method is more difficult than NA since there's positive and negative pressure. You shouldn't really be asking about o-ring size, you should be asking how people seal 11 or 14mm injectors to a stock VG30 manifold. Injector Dynamics might already have a method. Send them a message.

The transmission mount is the third engine mount. It's also designed to reduce fore and aft movement. Something to consider if you're trying to reduce engine movement.

Buy the correct injectors, or improvise. http://store.acadianasportscars.com/fu056-0002

Nissan calls them "o-rings" but they appear to be the typical squared rubber seal. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/274776/02524.oap?year=1985&make=Nissan&model=300ZX&vi=1209518&ck=Search_02524_1209518_-1&pt=02524&ppt=C0024#itemDetailTab_

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1983/

He moved it over to his Facebook page way back when. Scroll down to March 5, 2014, or try some search terms. They might work, I just scrolled 'cause I knew it was down there somewhere.. https://www.facebook.com/BetaMotorsports-LLC-143989191670/

Seems to be. Might not be obvious, the body holes are covered by the striker itself.

Chicago salts their roads. Even though the seller only drives it in the summer, the rust is a big warning sign. If you can travel to pick up a car, consider checking other states, more southern or out where they use gravel, not salt. There's a nice 78 in Kansas, talked about on classiczcars.com

Someone on classiczcars.com has a friend who needs to have a 1981 280ZX hauled away. Better hurry. Contact info is in the first post. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57513-1981-280zx-turbo-going-to-the-crusher/#comment-518304 Edit - apparently it might not be free, by recent comments in the other link. Mods (the real ones) feel free to delete this thread or Tool Shed it.

My car doesn't sit quite level at one inch lower and sometimes I wish I had adjustable spring perches. If you're not going too low, it's not a bad idea. You'll just bottom out sooner. You're giving up shock travel is all, in the end. Not sure what "all the way" is. Is it like "go big"?

It's gotta be two ports just to handle the fluid volume that the calipers use. Blocking a port should work. But, as noted, you're kind of reinventing one of many wheels.

You have to be a donater to post in For Sale. They need a For Free section.

I think this topic has come up before. The supplier apparently has a minimum run size to meet a certain price. But it might be that Whitehead and Checqucqyered are killing the product by splitting the demand. If one guy has six and another four and the cost point is ten, and they were communicating, they could combine and everybody would win. Looks lie they're not and everybody loses. And the minimum order math from the suppler is probably based on old business models where setup time was long. A modern shop with a CNC machine should be able to do one-offs for not a whole lot more than ten. Seems like these issues shouldn't really be issues. Kind of disappointing.

Firstly, they are not "lifters" in the GM sense. They are the pivot points for the rocker arms. There's a check procedure in the 1983 FSM Engein Mechanical chapter. Similar to your GM lifter test.

Could be the OP doesn't know that MMS is short for Modern Motorsports. Here's Whiteheads axles. Maybe from the same place but not MMS. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whp-billet-cv-300zx-z31-turbo-short-cv-axle-shafts-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ Of course he says that they have his driveshaft, singular, so who knows what he's trying to say. Beware.

Major conflation.

It's not clear that you know the difference between the two, or have two different models. Better to call them the E12 or matchbox distributor, and the external ignition module distributor, or something similar. Since they're swappable and it's been 35+ years you might be looking at two ZX or two 280Z distributors.

79 used the E1280, or matchbox, module on the side of the distributor, and the big six pointed variable reluctor and six pointed ring pickup. 74-78 used the ignition module in the cabin and the small six point reluctor with one or two pickup magnets in the distributor. They are different sizes but easy to tell apart. Could be that you have bad bushings in your distributor and the shaft is letting the rotor hit the cap.

Tried to find specific info on what ITM sends with their pistons but there's none readily available. I got the impression that they might use Nippon rings. Found an interesting article about piston rings that's pretty informative, in general. http://www.npramerica.com/attachement/Introduction1.pdf This guy says ITM pistons come with chrome top rings but I couldn't find it on the ITM site. Chrome rings take longer to seat, I believe, it's a harder material. http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/ Another cool reference - http://korihandbook.federalmogul.com/en/section_3.htm

The hone, or final surface quality, needs to be specified to match the material of the rings. I don't think it's a killer as far as getting the rings broken in eventually but it can take longer. If you don't know what you started with or what the machinist did you might get to a point where you just start using it hard to get the rings to wear to the bores. The amount of detail you're giving suggests that you left it up yo the machinist to decide. So unless you know what he based his decisions on, you don't have a lot to work with. If you have loose rings you can get oil burning to cause smoke and blowby that will affect your air quality when the PCV system's connected. You don't have any measurements either, so it could be that you really could have used a boring. I'm no expert, I just don't see any detail or numbers to work with. You depended on the shop to get it right and it sounds like they might have missed the mark. Did you get any paperwork, even a receipt for the machine work? Might tell something.

Seems like your oil scrapers maybe aren't scraping. The bottom set of rings. Everyone focuses on the sealing rings but the oil rings are important too. You haven't given any details on the type of rings, the matching hone, or who did the work and their experience with Datsun motors. Just a machine shop that did a hone. Do you have anything more to work with? NAPA is just another parts store these days. Who really knows who's in the machine shop or if it's even not just farmed out.

I think the upgrade that Nissan made when they cast a new front case/bellowing to match the VG engine was to enlarge the countershaft bearing. That's why I asked about the bearing. They made other changes over the years and many of the "71C" transmissions are actually G or H or some other letter. Double synchros, wider gears, double synchros on several gears, reverse synchros. Many variations but all for the VG engine after, 1983. The answers to the questions I asked will tell something.

The bolt pattern would be different because it was on a VG30 engine. So it's probably a 71C. Did you have to do any machine work to get the shift rods to fit and clearance for the gears. Swap bearings or enlarge the 4 sped housing hole? Maybe the trucks did use the VG front case on 71B transmissions. The casting letters and numbers don't seem to indicate much. People have put guides out there but when you check against known transmissions, the codes don't work. I think that the seals are the same across the B and the C and the G and the H.... They didn't change the shaft sizes over the years. You can tell if the front seal is leaking because there's a weep hole in the front case that will have oil coming from it. I had a leak from the clutch fork pivot ball. Turns out the threads need to be sealed. Someone took it apart and didn't do that. The oil runs down the fork in that case.

Looks like somebody just put it together wrong. But it does also imply that he mixed up his rocker arms. You should just take it all apart and inspect and put it back together correctly according to the FSM. Basically, you bought a collection of parts that might make a workable cylinder head. The rocker arms can twist on the pivot when in action so the angled gap doesn't mean a lot. The orange RTV is concerning. No idea what's in the coolant passage. There's nothing in there that should break.

People with 240Z's seem to like the Eibachs, and some have problems getting the correct Vogtlands. People with 280Z's seem to have the opposite problem. I'd go Vogtland if had a 280Z.