NewZed

Pretty sure that you can edit the title of a thread. Change "small block chevy" to "small block ford", maybe? Only if you want to catch the eyes of the Ford people though, instead of the chevy people.

Don't forget to set your engine and transmission angle to match the diff pinion shaft angle. I searched around using the casting number The "5.7LS" you reported confused me. Looks like you probably have a Gen I crate engine, with Vortec heads. Which fits the Scarab mounts view. So you're in the right forum, with an old-school Gen I V8 Z. Vortec is a type of GM head, I think named for the way they tried to get the charge to spin as it entered the chamber. Search around on the crate engine sites and you'll see some descriptions, and maybe recognize some other parts. Edit - some data that looks pretty specific. No idea who collects it or runs the site. http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/search/10243880 http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/detail/129/10243880 http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Chevy-Small-Block-Engines-C944.aspx?s=IsFeatured%20DESC,%20OrderBy%20ASC,%20Name%20ASC&ps=24 https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/engines-components/part-type/crate-engines?N=4294949512%2B4294869887&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=vortec

Firstly, nobody is going to get naked with you (I think). This isn't that kind of forum. Second, running 12's without a transmission crossmember seems very unlikely. Could be that the 12's were with the first motor, and it might not have been an LS engine. Looks like you have a lot of learning to do. And, I'm pretty sure, that the LS engines are known as Gen III, IV and V. So you might be in the wrong sub-forum if it's an LS. But the bell-housing is not part of the engine block so you might be looking at the wrong ID markings. Best to take good closeup pictures and post those. Stick your camera under the car and take pictures if you can't get your eyeballs under there.

Only asked because it's all here in this thread. Blaa blaa. What's the point of replying otherwise? Blaa blaa. You're way down at the simple end of what you seem to be planning. Who really wants to see your butt posts...? Blaa

Are you reading the replies or just posting for fun?

You should start doing the math and research to figure out what you need, what you want, and what you can afford. There are simple calculators out there, based on common assumptions. Take your 200 HP number,do a calculation, then go find an injector that fits the need to get there. It's more than Lonewolf + Supra = 200 HP. The calculations and research is part of the project, and you'll learn a bunch. Come back with your plan and see what people think. Nobody can give a good answer to one question at a time. That's my suggestion. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Fuel_Injector_Flow_Rates.html http://212.113.105.12/library/BOOKS/CAR/efi/Stan$20Weiss$20Electronic$20Fuel$20Injector$20$28EFI$29$20Flow$20Data$20Table.htm

People run what they feel comfortable with. Everything from super-precise machining to gobs of silicone. Make something work. You can't run "stock" with a Lone Wolf intake.

You could find an O-ring that will fit the pintle cover of a barbed injector and make it work. You can run 14mm injectors on a stock intake, using the barbed injector gaskets on the 14mm injector, or two O-rings. They seal the way Nissan sealed them back then, compressed gasket, instead of using an O-ring type seal. Do some study on how seals seal and an idea will come. There are design specs out there for O-ring sealing. And you don't need the special tool to cut a new hole for a bigger injector. You just need to put more care in to cutting the hole using standard tools. The special tool makes things fast and easy and accurate but it's not necessary. Just saying...

You can see the clip to let the idler gear free. Find out how to get the fifth gear removed to let it come off the shaft. Might be shown in the manual, MT chapter. Looks like you can pull 5th and change the idler then put it all back together. Get a new nut before you start, you'll probably destroy the old one when removing it. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-240sx-factory-service-manuals.html Try a more descriptive title of your thread also if you want to get some views. "Reverse idler gear" doesn't really draw the eye.

You're in a bit of a bind here. If you tell how much you were asking you'll look like you're trying to sell your car without being a donating member. From what I've seen, the ZX crowd hangs out at zcar.com. Hybridz members buy ZX Turbo cars so that they can take the motor and dump the body. No offense, that's just the way it is. Go to zcar if you want ZX opinions, I'd say. As far as modifying the engine to get more money for the car, when I see somebody else's garage-done engine work I feel like they probably screwed something up. It lowers the value, doesn't raise it, unless they are a professional engine builder or have obvious or well-known skills. But that's just me.

You have your causes and effects mixed up. The wrong pinion angle can cause propeller shaft vibration, not diff noise. Diff noise is mostly inherent to the R200 design, and isolated from the cabin by mounting it properly.

Don't overlook gear ratios. You might need a new diff also if your ratios change much. The 80-83 280ZX transmissions are fine for normal sporty driving. And if you're looking because you have some grinding or noise, there are cheaper fixes than total replacement.

These two guys give a pretty good summary of the pros and cons of the 240SX/71C swap http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm The Z32 swap requires an adapter. What do you mean by "upgrade"? How could a different transmission be better? You need to define that to make a good decision.

The contacts get pitted and holed after a few billion clicks so can still get hot if they're not refurbished well. There was somebody that flipped the contact lever around and used the other clean, unpitted end. Apparently there's an extra set unused in there, Can't remember the details. The other part of the problem is that the running lights switch has the same issue. So total heat buildup is pretty high. With a simple relay, current through the headlights portion is reduced to almost nothing. So you can take the switch apart or cut a few wires.

Tyler0 hasn't confirmed what he's working with. You're right though, I missed hsi comment about "much longer" so I was off there. But I went out and gained some internet expertise and see that runner length has more to do with moving the power peak's RPM number, not so much the total output. Runner diameter affects total power more. And he says he has more runner area, so he should get more total power. Even if the power peak moves down. Win-win maybe. My main point is that nobody can really say that any design rule, let alone every rule, has been violated until tyler0 defines what he's trying to do. Maybe his goal is low end torque. Maybe it's for a turbo motor. Maybe he needs the larger area for more overall power. I was countering the waste of time negativity. CM hasn't built any intake manifolds and he's apparently assumed that he knows what tyler0's goals are. Looks interesting to me and some positive discussion could be educational. No need to kill the buzz with negative comments.

Not uncommon for the headlights switch itself, on top of the column, to get hot. All of the headlights current flows through the switch. There are relay setups out there. You can go halfway on the relays, just the current through the switch but not the grounding circuit at the dimmer, and just save the switch. Check the wiring diagram to see. You didn't say what year your car is, I think there might be some changes over the years. I have a 76 280Z and put a relay in front of the switch after the solder joint let go a couple of times.

The basic question is whether it's better than the stock L6 intake, not if it's the best intake ever. And some of the people with the strongest opinions here don't have any verified expertise in manifold design, just years of stuff they read somewhere. Like me. If you measured the length of those runners you'd probably find that they're shorter than the stock gasoilne L6 runners. So that comment doesn't fly. As far as distance from the intake ports, it's closer than throttle body injection. You wouldn't know the benefits over the stock manifold without measuring though. Which is the problem with most aftermarket manifold designs. They look like they should be better but actual measurements are often non-existent.

You said it fully disengages. But grinding in to reverse says otherwise. Search "throwout collar" and various other clutch words. Use Google and "site:hybridz.org" and you'll get better results. If you didn't measure the stack height (another good search term) of the parts before installing you might need to start over.

Could be drag. Push brake pedal to know for sure.

Here's the sketchy part, along with much of what the guy writes in his ebay ad - "The lift is .535 Don would never tell the duration of his cams. If your the lucky winner, I will let you know the duration." Pretty easy to replicate a machine part, duration would have been easy to determine. Power comes from the combination of parts, not just a cam profile. The guy's selling snake oil and magic.

The clips are hard to get locked on. Press harder. I was being ironic about the picture. It's hhuuuugggee.

It's a 73 distributor. The cap only fits one way, with a square locating piece by one of the clip areas. Maybe you had it backward. "Slightly too big" doesn't tell much about how it doesn't fit. Can you make that picture any bigger?

Good luck. And you believe wrongly. 78 got the N47 on N42, Mid-80 or 81 got the P79 on F54. P90 came in 81, on the turbo. If you really want to go directly to what the ECU sees, check the coolant temperature circuit at the ECU plug. That way you won't have to determine if it's a CHTS or a thermostat housing based sensor. All that matters anyway, is what the ECU sees.

Check the coolant temperature sensor. Sounds like it's running super-rich, with the blackish-smoke. That engine is a 280ZX engine, maybe a turbo engine, so whoever put it in might have used the CHTS instead of the coolant temperature sensor. Either way, they need to be connected and indicating engine temperature, otherwise the ECU sees an arctic-cold engine and dumps lots of extra fuel.

Where'd you get the frame rails? And why'd you weld the engine mount on before verifying proper fitment? You seem to be combining two things in to one. An engine mount for some as-yet unidentified engine, and frame rail replacement. Not really connected to each other. You wrote like the engine mount is part of the rail replacement, but it's not. Seems like you might be on the start of a trail of errors.