NewZed

I see. The sentence above made me think that you had just done some mods. One day it started to have problems is a good clue that something was working and stopped. Could still be a head gasket, or a stuck thermostat, or a coolant flow blockage. The "one day' part does imply that it's not a gauge or an air bubble causing the problem. It would be something that can happen to a system that's working properly, some sort of failure. Helps narrow the focus.

No offense but we really just want a "yes" or a "no" for this question. If it was working but it's not now then you can focus on what you changed. If it was never working right and you added the fans to try to fix a problem maybe you're looking in the wrong place. If you don't know if it was ever right then you have a potential can of who knows what kind of worms to mess with.

This question never got answered. Could be the old "I really want my new parts to work so I'll ignore the past" syndrome. "It can't be the new fans". p.s. I think that should be electric fans. The old fan is also mechanical. Side note - if mechanical why not electrical. Electrical fans. Doesn't sound right but maybe it is.

Leaking clutch slave cylinder = poor disengagement = inability to easily get in to reverse without grinding = angry driver forcing through the grind = chipped reverse gears.

Do lots of research. Start with the basics of how internal internal combustion engines work then move on to electronic fuel injection. No offense. Your assumption shows that you don't know how engines work. Again, no offense. You're just way behind where you want to be to do your own car work.

Could be an almost dead battery, or a bad alternator, or both.

This guy was going to do one. Don't know where he ended up with it. You could send him a message. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/352-240hoke/ http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-350z-6-speed-adapter/ Edit - his Facebook page says they should have been ready by December. Scroll down to November 11. Facebook sucks for running a business. https://www.facebook.com/hokeperformance

Maybe spend a little more time on getting good evidence. You didn't give a number on "creeping up" from 180. 185 or 205? Give it some high load testing, like a few acceleration on-ramps and see how bad things get. If it stops at the same point and never overheats, you might be just nervous about nothing. Blown head gaskets are a fairly common cause of overheating, I believe. If everything else checks out, give it a test.

At speed on the street the fans should be mostly ineffective. Fans are for no or low speed. Of course, if they were installed in a way that blocks flow across the radiator, there could be a problem. The bubbles shouldn't be there though, after a few heat/cool cycles. It should just be fluid getting pushed and pulled from the overflow bottle.

Just a guess but it sounds like a mild head gasket leak. Exhaust gases are leaking in to the coolant channels. The bubbles and gases reduce the cooling ability and your temperatures go up under engine load. I haven't used them but I've heard that you can get a test kit at the auto parts store that will identify exhaust byproducts in the coolant. And your overlfow bottle should be vented to atmosphere so the "raising the bottle" to get the air out doesn't really matter. Probably good that you have a clear hose though so that you can see the bubbles.

Pretty sure that you can edit the title of a thread. Change "small block chevy" to "small block ford", maybe? Only if you want to catch the eyes of the Ford people though, instead of the chevy people.

Don't forget to set your engine and transmission angle to match the diff pinion shaft angle. I searched around using the casting number The "5.7LS" you reported confused me. Looks like you probably have a Gen I crate engine, with Vortec heads. Which fits the Scarab mounts view. So you're in the right forum, with an old-school Gen I V8 Z. Vortec is a type of GM head, I think named for the way they tried to get the charge to spin as it entered the chamber. Search around on the crate engine sites and you'll see some descriptions, and maybe recognize some other parts. Edit - some data that looks pretty specific. No idea who collects it or runs the site. http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/search/10243880 http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/detail/129/10243880 http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Chevy-Small-Block-Engines-C944.aspx?s=IsFeatured%20DESC,%20OrderBy%20ASC,%20Name%20ASC&ps=24 https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/engines-components/part-type/crate-engines?N=4294949512%2B4294869887&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=vortec

Firstly, nobody is going to get naked with you (I think). This isn't that kind of forum. Second, running 12's without a transmission crossmember seems very unlikely. Could be that the 12's were with the first motor, and it might not have been an LS engine. Looks like you have a lot of learning to do. And, I'm pretty sure, that the LS engines are known as Gen III, IV and V. So you might be in the wrong sub-forum if it's an LS. But the bell-housing is not part of the engine block so you might be looking at the wrong ID markings. Best to take good closeup pictures and post those. Stick your camera under the car and take pictures if you can't get your eyeballs under there.

Only asked because it's all here in this thread. Blaa blaa. What's the point of replying otherwise? Blaa blaa. You're way down at the simple end of what you seem to be planning. Who really wants to see your butt posts...? Blaa

Are you reading the replies or just posting for fun?

You should start doing the math and research to figure out what you need, what you want, and what you can afford. There are simple calculators out there, based on common assumptions. Take your 200 HP number,do a calculation, then go find an injector that fits the need to get there. It's more than Lonewolf + Supra = 200 HP. The calculations and research is part of the project, and you'll learn a bunch. Come back with your plan and see what people think. Nobody can give a good answer to one question at a time. That's my suggestion. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Fuel_Injector_Flow_Rates.html http://212.113.105.12/library/BOOKS/CAR/efi/Stan$20Weiss$20Electronic$20Fuel$20Injector$20$28EFI$29$20Flow$20Data$20Table.htm

People run what they feel comfortable with. Everything from super-precise machining to gobs of silicone. Make something work. You can't run "stock" with a Lone Wolf intake.

You could find an O-ring that will fit the pintle cover of a barbed injector and make it work. You can run 14mm injectors on a stock intake, using the barbed injector gaskets on the 14mm injector, or two O-rings. They seal the way Nissan sealed them back then, compressed gasket, instead of using an O-ring type seal. Do some study on how seals seal and an idea will come. There are design specs out there for O-ring sealing. And you don't need the special tool to cut a new hole for a bigger injector. You just need to put more care in to cutting the hole using standard tools. The special tool makes things fast and easy and accurate but it's not necessary. Just saying...

You can see the clip to let the idler gear free. Find out how to get the fifth gear removed to let it come off the shaft. Might be shown in the manual, MT chapter. Looks like you can pull 5th and change the idler then put it all back together. Get a new nut before you start, you'll probably destroy the old one when removing it. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-240sx-factory-service-manuals.html Try a more descriptive title of your thread also if you want to get some views. "Reverse idler gear" doesn't really draw the eye.

You're in a bit of a bind here. If you tell how much you were asking you'll look like you're trying to sell your car without being a donating member. From what I've seen, the ZX crowd hangs out at zcar.com. Hybridz members buy ZX Turbo cars so that they can take the motor and dump the body. No offense, that's just the way it is. Go to zcar if you want ZX opinions, I'd say. As far as modifying the engine to get more money for the car, when I see somebody else's garage-done engine work I feel like they probably screwed something up. It lowers the value, doesn't raise it, unless they are a professional engine builder or have obvious or well-known skills. But that's just me.

You have your causes and effects mixed up. The wrong pinion angle can cause propeller shaft vibration, not diff noise. Diff noise is mostly inherent to the R200 design, and isolated from the cabin by mounting it properly.

Don't overlook gear ratios. You might need a new diff also if your ratios change much. The 80-83 280ZX transmissions are fine for normal sporty driving. And if you're looking because you have some grinding or noise, there are cheaper fixes than total replacement.

These two guys give a pretty good summary of the pros and cons of the 240SX/71C swap http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm The Z32 swap requires an adapter. What do you mean by "upgrade"? How could a different transmission be better? You need to define that to make a good decision.

The contacts get pitted and holed after a few billion clicks so can still get hot if they're not refurbished well. There was somebody that flipped the contact lever around and used the other clean, unpitted end. Apparently there's an extra set unused in there, Can't remember the details. The other part of the problem is that the running lights switch has the same issue. So total heat buildup is pretty high. With a simple relay, current through the headlights portion is reduced to almost nothing. So you can take the switch apart or cut a few wires.

Tyler0 hasn't confirmed what he's working with. You're right though, I missed hsi comment about "much longer" so I was off there. But I went out and gained some internet expertise and see that runner length has more to do with moving the power peak's RPM number, not so much the total output. Runner diameter affects total power more. And he says he has more runner area, so he should get more total power. Even if the power peak moves down. Win-win maybe. My main point is that nobody can really say that any design rule, let alone every rule, has been violated until tyler0 defines what he's trying to do. Maybe his goal is low end torque. Maybe it's for a turbo motor. Maybe he needs the larger area for more overall power. I was countering the waste of time negativity. CM hasn't built any intake manifolds and he's apparently assumed that he knows what tyler0's goals are. Looks interesting to me and some positive discussion could be educational. No need to kill the buzz with negative comments.