NewZed

Where are the leads connected? Might be a clue.

The CAS is used by MS, which then controls spark and injection. So the wheel you use is really determined by how you want MS to work not which ignition system you use. Most people here would suggest the DIY wheel since it was designed specifically for MS. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/quadspark-ignition/megasquirt/ The other way to use GM DIS is to use its reluctor wheel instead of the Nissan CAS wheel. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_DIS.htm

Here's another write-up. Can't remember if he talks about shifter position or not. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

That sounds like a pretty significant short circuit somewhere. The voltage drop would be from excess current flow. Each time the short happens the voltage drops, and to go from 14 to 8 puts a big load on the alternator as it tries to bring it up to 14. It might be that you just have a dangling wire somewhere that is bouncing around. The high voltage when you start might be because the battery has capacity that is being used and the alternator can supply a charge on top . As the short continues the battery dies and the alternator can't keep up with the short. Does the battery get warm while this is happening? And do you have to recharge the battery to restart the whole process? If it's not a loose wire it could be an electrical component that shorts out more as it warms up. The coil is a possibility. I think somebody mentioned that. Whatever it is should be getting hot as the current flows so touching things while the engine is warming up might find something. Another thing to check is if you have replaced fusible links with regular wire, or wired something directly to the battery with no fuse. If it is a short that's draining the battery that quickly, it really should be blowing a fuse or fusible link. That's the other benefit of fuses, they tell you where the short is.

You should probably study up a little more on electrical basics. You might be killing your own alternators with improper wiring. You're still having problems describing what's happening. "moving on the gauge from 12" doesn't tell much. Describing the problem is 90% of solving it. Edit - seriously, all that can be pulled from your posts is that your alternator has quit working twice, you have odd readings on your meter, the engine dies after it wars up, and the injectors make a humming noise. Here's a question to ponder - how do you know the alternator has quit charging if the reading on your meter is jumping around?

I would put some better numbers on your description and don't use any "etc".'s "I disconnected the alternator etc" How long does the engine run before it dies (number of minutes)? Have you tried another multimeter (maybe you just have a bad meter)? Does the meter in the dash jump around like the multimeter does (78 has a dash volt-meter and an internally regulated alternator)? Might be that you don't really have a voltage problem, just an engine that needs an idle speed adjustment.

Probably depends on seat position and how long your arms are. Here's some pictures of a job done - http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04555JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-290017 p.s. Nigel is a Hybridz member if you wanted to message him.

Did you tell ACT about it? Be interesting to hear what they say. http://www.advancedclutch.com/ http://www.advancedclutch.com/contact

I think that's better ID'ed as the "yoke" that holds the joint. The joint itself looks okay. And it's actually the flange that let go. Looks like it might have had improperly sized, or loose, bolts, allowing stress risers at the holes. To my earlier comment about finessing all of the various pieces and areas that a person can, to distribute the loads most effectively. The parts look crude and hammer-proof, but they are actually precision-machined at the areas that matter. People tend to just throw them together and torque 'em down and if they break they go bigger. Is that a custom shaft, the u-joint clips aren't Nissan style. Another precision piece, Nissan actually has a range of internal clips to precisely center the u-joint caps. Installing the u-joints by the Nissan method is a highly skilled procedure in itself.

Don't overlook the non-Japanese brands. BMW, GM, Volvo, Saab...all have used EV1 plugs. This source has a pretty good selection to choose from, with data. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

If you're replacing with aftermarket inserts like KYB or Tokico you don't need the o-ring. The original factory design contains the oil in the strut tube but aftermarket is self-contained.

Still there. They reformatted the site to make it more difficult to find things. You have to wait a second for the tiny menu bar to load then intuitively hover and click your way to the info. nicoclub.com has them also. They've maintained the original primitive site, after you click your way thoguh a couple of modern looking pages.' http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Don't overlook that large portions of Megasquirt are really for electronics engineer-nerd types, not car guys. PWM and low Z, and flyback, and resistors, and soldering...high impedance simplifies a lot. Search down to "flyback" and nerd-out - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb

The internal path to the thermostat is still there, right? I thought that the point of this was to removed dead flow zones, hot spots. So, total flow is maintained, but there's a side current introduced. Seems like flow control valves in each port might help, to balance flow. To avoid creating a dead zone somewhere else..

You should be using the Megamanual. You can trigger the MS system using the negative post of the coil, just like the factory system does. Here's a couple of pages that cover what you need and other stuff. You don't need a 240SX throttle body. You might be thinking of a throttle position sensor but you don't need that either. You already have a throttle body. Click the blue links for details. http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mintro.htm#applic Here's a mention of triggering from the coil - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

So it is the CV axle? Sorry Rebekahz I was wrong there. I didn't look far enough down the picture. So, maybe he just needs a new axle. I haven't really added to the potential solution discussion.

MS is probably more difficult to get working than the stock system, so if you couldn't figure out the stock system MS won't make your life easier. MS will run your engine better, but the stock EFI system is so basic it's essentially a tutorial on how EFI works, in general.

What's "fuku" mean?

What are the Nisan axles made from? And "chromoly" is a vague term that covers a range of steel formulations. If it's 4130, just call it 4130. And without the heat history, the final properties can't be known. A couple of Hybridz members have had heat treatment issues in the past. Just saying, know what you're actually working with, if you can. https://www.onlinemetals.com/productguides/alloysteelguide.cfm

You can see the circlip slot, so it's the differential side. Looks like a stock 4 hole 300ZX turbo axle. The only difference to Joe's kit then is "chromoly" (whatever that might actually mean) over whatever material and heat treatment Nissan used. Never seen any actual evidence that the chromoly is actually stronger. Nissan's part might be "chromoly". Too bad he can't just get the CV axle end in chromoly since that's the broken part. If chromoly is actually better.

Joe's "930 deal" doesn't show on either of his links. The internet is boon and bane, you have to learn how to use it. Interesting break point for j1jz, right in the middle of the splines. The stress riser must have been the edge of the CV female spline. I've wondered before why people don't massage their axles like they do their connecting rods. Get rid of sharp edges, shot peen. polish, all of that. It's all about stress distribution. Edit - I found the page. Bu t it doesn't really answer the questions. Internet ........ http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240z-280z-complete-cv-axle-conversion.html

What kind of force do you think that shift to 3rd generated? I can see how the diff nose lifts since the halfshafts are perpendicular, but not really seeing a lifting or dropping force on the tail of the transmission from shifting. Everything is rotating longitudinally. And the forward engine mounts should stop the twisting. Just trying to understand the forces. I mentioned mass and inertia in my reply, relative to bumps. There was a similar topic recently about engines moving forward and hitting the radiator. But it wasn't clear if they were tilting forward and just damaging the top of the radiator (a clue), or if the whole engine and transmission were moving forward on the same plane.

You can probably lift the transmission off of the mount with one hand. It's just mass times inertia. Hit a bump and there's more down-force, so it depends on how you drive it. There's probably also some up-force. When you hit the brakes the engine will try to pivot forward on its mounts, creating lift at the transmission tail. I seem to recall that the early Vega V8 swaps had problems with the engine rocking on its engine mounts.

It seems that many engine builds are just taking the easy operations out of a list of operations for a very thorough, "complete" performance build. Might be more effective to extract the things that have the most impact and focus on those, instead of the easy stuff. For example, port work on the head is probably much more impactful than shaving the head. The pros mill the head as part of the complete job, but would probably rather have a ported head than a faction of a point increase in CR.

You should post your MS setting, and/or a screenshot of all settings, and readings from the meters, if you can. You'll get more better responses sooner.