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NewZed

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  1. NewZed
    I suggest reviewing the suggestions in this thread, addressing the potential causes, refocusing, and providing better information. You got a bunch of ideas from your video but now you're saying the video is old. All those people who watched the old video, wrote some numbers down,and did some math for you. Are they going to do it again? Who knows. Here's another possibility for you - tiny, or clogged boost hoses. Bad boost data. Or a bad boost gauge. I didn't watch the video (and won't now, because it's old) but if you're just shooting up in to boost zone and then back down, maybe there's a delay at your gauge. Several people are questioning your numbers, you should verify that you're getting good data. The fact that your pressure gauge company backs their products doesn't mean that they don't break. Just means they'll fix them when they do. Much of what your dealing with depends on good information. You have a lot of sketchy numbers here. Since the engine is safe, you can spend time making sure you have good data. Millions, maybe billions, of hours have been wasted by people working with bad data.
  2. NewZed
    You said it runs great, doesn't smoke, no real problems except an AFR number (the LED's on the gauge - my joke) that makes you uncomfortable. But it's uncomfortable on the safe, rich, side. I didn't go through your math, but at least two people did and said that there's no great mismatch between fuel pressure and boost pressure. The numbers are right. Basically, it looks like you don't really have a problem to fix. And the only solution to fine-tuning your AFR's is to get a tuneable engine management system. There's nothing that can be done here. Stop looking at the AFR gauge and enjoy the car. Or get a tuneable system. That's all I'm saying.
  3. NewZed
    Seems like your best option might be to just stop looking at the AFR gauge. You're tuning to an LED.
  4. NewZed
    If I recall correctly, you can remove part of the bracket for the strut . It looks like it's welded but part of the bracket is bolted on and does come off and will give you more room to slip the panel out. It's a bracket bolted to a bracket. You'll need to prop up the hatch I think, since the end of one strut will be loose. I'm working from memory of past advice, and realizing how it worked later. I have tried to remove mine but changed my mind when I got stuck in the same spot. The part I was trying to get to became less important.
  5. NewZed
    You're not really using the way a fuel pump works correctly. All it produces is volume. The FPR creates pressure. Assuming the same voltage, you'll get maximum volume at idle or engine not running. Because the injectors aren't bleeding off volume. Assuming the same voltage again, if the return line was a restriction, you'd see the problem when you were running the pump without the engine running because the volume would be the greatest. Nothing bleeding it off. I'd check your pressure with a mechanical gauge. Could be that you just have a rich tune on your JWT ECU, everything's fine with the FPR, and you just have a funky transducer on your pressure gauge. The one in your pictures. You might be on a wild goose chase, from bad data. Pretty common.
  6. NewZed
    Just a flyer - are the reference port for the FPR and the port for the boost gauge in the same spot, or close? Just to be sure. The boost pressures is "helping" the regulator spring close the FPR return port. Hard to imagine a step-type increase in pressure, of 5 psi. The return line would only seem to come in to play if you were on the edge with the pump output and extra voltage caused more pump output. Maybe your voltage regulator is bad. Another flyer.
  7. NewZed
    1975 still has the Ammeter so your simplest quickest check of a failed VR is to put a meter on the battery terminals and rev the engine. If you get 16 or over, that's bad. The complete, thorough test procedure is shown in the FSM. Whatever path you choose, owning a good multimeter is almost mandatory for working on these cars. You can just go to the parts store and get a 1982 280ZX alternator and you'll be fine, if you decide to do the swap.
  8. NewZed
    They differ by year. It's called the Warning light switch in the FSM. Part #21. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-piping/from-jul-72
  9. NewZed
    Those look like CAS wires. With coil-packs, the distributor function is gone, so that's not the right word. The modules are a bit sensitive, I think. Here's a vendor. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121493-new-crank-angle-sensors-for-8283-280zxts-in-stock/ I've dinked around with later models (Pathfinder VG30E engine) and found that some people swap newer for older. I don't know which comes on the 280ZX CAS's though, so don't know if this is relevant. Here's an example. RSB-07 replaces RSB-03. https://z31performance.com/forum/z31-basics/how-to-guides-basic/20433-rsb-07-cam-sensor If you have another car that uses that type of CAS you can plug in the questionable CAS to the good car, turn the key to On, and spin it by hand. If it's good the injectors will click. An easy way to tell if it's ECU or CAS.
  10. NewZed
    Don't miss the fact that pre-ignition, caused by hot spots, can cause detonation, but it's not a necessary precursor. Detonation can happen without it. Detonation is caused by pressure and heat of the fuel-air mixture. It's an explosion of all of the remaining fuel-air mix at one time. Combustion chamber shape comes in to play because a bad design can create pockets of high pressure.
  11. NewZed
    You could use one of these things.
  12. NewZed
    BRAAP did some work on intakes in his EFI tips thread. I have the link in my clipboard - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/
  13. NewZed
    You should read all of these threads - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ You seem to be hearing what people are saying then deciding to do what you wanted to do anyway. The engine's don't like high compression ratios. And people don't just "convert to E85" on a whim, it's a whole other world. If your thinking that picking the right head gasket is the way to set a compression ratio, E85 is going to take you forever. Seriously, read the threads in that link, they're full of answers. p.s. I see that I basically copied and reworded JMortensen's comment, #10 and #7. Overlapping posting, I think, I missed his.
  14. NewZed
    It's been over 5 years. OK and "slapping" don't go well together. The answer to your first question was really "leave the N47 head on". Seriously, it's got the bigger valves and good compression ration that JM mentioned as important. You'd be creating problems and ending up with a weaker motor by swapping on an E31 head.
  15. NewZed
    Diseazd, I think you mean. Isn't there an old saying - "There's no replacement for displacement"? "Destroking" gives a buzzy motor but you end up with less power. Nissan lengthened the stroke to add displacement, giving more power.
  16. NewZed
    Thanks RB. Didn't mean to sound so snippy. BJSZED, I think that the factory drawing in Post #4 tells the story. The thick black represents the rubber of the seal. You can see the lips pointing back, or "in". They even labeled "Front" for us, with a big arrow. It must have been confusing at the time because they wouldn't waste space on it if it was obvious.
  17. NewZed
    Those pictures are from Blue, the guy who put together most of that web site. Beermanpete knows more, he's been in there. The return line might bend up inside the baffle, with the opening up high. Same problem.
  18. NewZed
    I think that there's a few in the thread linked below. People talk about it all the time,they just don't make a big deal of it. Your amazement is more about finding stuff on the forum, I think. And you can turn the distributor for more advance. What is "dump tuning"? Sounds like one of those fancy California diets. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123487-compare-your-dyno-sheets-here/?hl=dyno
  19. NewZed
    You should start a new thread with a good title. 77 280Z has nothing to do with blow-through turbo carb. I'm only here because I have a 76 280Z. And guessing at things like where the timing should be set on a turbo L6 is very bad.
  20. NewZed
    I was going to suggest engine fogging oil. You're right though, it's probably a good idea. The bare motor parts are exposed to air if there's no fuel so rusting can happen. You could also just fill it with light oil and seal the ports. Non-flammable, but still a petro product.
  21. NewZed
    The left hand turn problem has been described before, but not so bad as yours. 1/3 - 1/4 tank is the more common level where it starts. I think it was one of the first problems I asked about on this forum. Swirl pot/surge tank was the suggested solution. Apparently there's also a pickup tube inside the tank that runs up and then back down (what gnosez is talking about, I assume) to the exit point, that sometimes gets holes rusted in it at a high point. If the holes are submerged they don'r have an effect, but when exposed they suck air. Could be why you have a worse problem. Here's some pictures of the inside of a 77 tank. You can see how the pickup tube rises up before dropping back down to the exit point. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm Aren't modifications prohibited in Chump?
  22. NewZed
    For the record, there had been posts from another guy from Australia in this thread. His reasoning was a bit skewed and he wanted to delete the contents of a post or two. Not a big deal and it made the thread entertaining. But now it looks like the OP and me are having some sort of weird disjointed conversation. A moderator must have granted a favor to the guy? There is no Delete button in the post box. Are we just disappearing things now? It really screws up the thread. Nothing wrong with disappearing things if they're totally disconnected. But my comments about looking at the pictures wrong were directed at the guy who's missing, not the two other guys here. If you make a mistake on a forum you're not supposed to get do-overs. It keeps people honest and focused. It's one of the great things about the internet.
  23. NewZed
    I think that you're confusing inside and outside, in the pictures. Both pictures are of the inside, looking out. Through that hole, away from you, is the outside world. The lips should be pointing in, or at you. As they are in the first picture. The picture is of the front cover, not the transmission. If you're using a phone you probably can barely tell what you're looking at.
  24. NewZed
    Ist photo. The early FSM's actually give better detail. Here's 1976. It's not pressurized and there's not even any oil weight on it so either way would probably work. But #1 is the right way.
  25. NewZed

    5 speed swap

    NewZed replied to Dadddio's topic in Drivetrain

    92 mm stack height is the key. There are thread about it.
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