NewZed

1978 used a switch, not a sensor. Idle, mid-range, and full (or close to it), but only those three conditions. I'm not familiar with all of the possibilities of Megasquirt, but what you have wouldn't be considered a "sensor". Here's something from the Megamanual - " http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm "Throttle Position Sensor The MegaSquirt® controller uses the throttle position sensor (TPS) to determine when the engine is at or near full throttle (to shut off feedback from the O2 sensor), when the engine throttle is opening or closing rapidly (and needing an accel/decel enrichment), and when the engine is flooded and needs to be cleared. Some people have managed to make their engines function reasonably well without a TPS. This is not recommended with the standard code, however. You will need a TPS that is really a potentiometer and not a switch. Many older cars had idle or WOT position switches instead of a real TPS. A real TPS gives a continuously varying signal with changing throttle. There are two wires on the external wiring schematic that go from MegaSquirt® into the TPS sensor. These two MegaSquirt® wires are +5 Vref signal and a sense line. There is a third wire going to ground. Assuming that you have a proper potentiometer TPS, then +5 Vref goes to one side of the pot, the other side goes to ground and the sensor line is hooked to the wip

Running rich. The converter "burns" hydrocarbons that didn't get consumed during normal combustion. Heat is produced.

Search around the interweb using words like "resurrecting old 240Z" or similar and you might find some write-ups about it. They are out there. There are other considerations besides just stuck cylinders too, like a dry valve train, sticking valves, gummed up carburetor innards, etc. If it has carbs then you'll need to determine the quality of the old fuel, it tneds to evaporate and leave tarry material behind. People often get the old engines running then have a lash pad pop free because a valve stuck open. And, much of the advice you'll find is for getting an engine to start after sitting for a long time but the advice might not actually be the best for getting the engine to start without causing long-term damage. If you really want it to come back to life and last another 100,000 miles you'll want to examine things closely before even trying to crank it. For example, that rust in the cylinders has to go somewhere after the pistons break free. Just some thoughts. I'm always surprised at how people will throw a battery in try to crank an engine over without considering what's happening to all of the age residue.

Many people say that you have to get new rocker arms to use with a new or regorund cam. But some of the engine boulders say that you'll be fine with used rocker arms if they don't have significant wear. Either way, if you get a used head with cam and rocker arms you'll have the cores for a reground cam profile. If you buy a used bare head, you'll have to buy all of the rocker arms and a camshaft separately, along with valves and lash pads and other missing parts. Seems like buying a used complete head would be the most economical way to go. Another option might be to just buy a complete engine or a whole car. Often, one person's junk car is another person's trove of useful parts. You'll want to choose between the various head options though, to start. N42, N47, P79 or P90, assuming you want the bigger ports to start the porting work. But, actually, if you're having Lonewolf port your head, what you should really do is work directly with them. They'll probably have specific expert instructions on what to buy, and what to look for to make sure the head is worth buying. Read their Stage II and III comments. http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/services.htm

Get the Rebuild and Modify books by Monroe and Honsowetz. Define what you're expecting from the engine. "Hot street" isn't enough. Make a list of technical details, like expected RPM range, desired power level, type of power, compression ratio, cam specs. expected lifetime, engine management system, etc. You should be able to write it all up on paper then go find the parts and get the work done. You're not really ready to buy a head yet.

I seem to recall that the locks develop play where the lever attaches. So they don't move the rod far enough to do anything at the latch. Another reason to disconnect it and move the lock rod by hand.

Disconnect the lock from the latching mechanism so that the lock is not part of the problem anymore. Sounds like you're trying to work on everything at the same time while it's all connected, without really knowing where the problem is. The rods usually just pop out of the nylon bushings. Disconnect the lock and move the locking rod by hand. Isolate the sub-systems: the inner handle, the outer handle, the lock, and the latch. The latch doesn't need any of those to function. That spring your friend messed up is important I think. It moves the latch. Without it you might have to figure a way to move it manually.

Here's the one I remember. Stony seems to know what he's doing and he had problems. But it is doable. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113280-rb-cas-drive-gear-replacement-info/

I've seen some discussions about it on this forum. Sounded like a difficult fix, if I recall right.

Have you checked the FSM diagrams? They're not the greatest but might offer a clue. Or you can take apart the working door and figure out what is supposed to happen. If you just need to remove the outside handle so that you can actuate the rods by hand, there's two nuts that hold it to the door. And there's a sliding locking clip, like the one on the brake hoses, that holds the lock itself to the door. A bright light and tiny hands and you can get them both out and off. Could be that either the inside or the outside mechanism is broken or jammed. Make sure you're working on the right one. The inside handle is easier to get to. And you didn't say what year you're working with. Things changed over the various models. And it's not really clear what you're replacing, the latching mechanism, or the actuators, or the lock.

Me again. You're probably not getting many responses because this topic comes up every few months. Search the forums a little closer and you'll find threads that say "too much, I got mine for $400 (ten years ago)" or "that's a great deal, 280ZX's are going for $1000's today". Big picture wise, it's about time. How long do you want to wait for a screaming deal? Any engine from a salvage yard is going to cost about $300. You get a whole car. And you mis-titled this one - 289ZXT is not a thing. God luck.

Actually, that's probably a short shot. RB probably does matter, with it's cam sensor mounted up there. My point was really "know your system".

Describe the engine management and ignition system. Megasquirt, Electromotive, Haltech, etc. Doesn't matter if it's an RB or an L or an LS...

Actually, your plan is pretty much what 80% of the people on this site are trying to do. Throttle bodies only control air flow. Throttle means to obstruct or stop flow. In the old days people were throttled instead of choked. Fuel injection of some sort is used with all throttle bodies. A carburetor is essentially a throttle body combined with a fuel reservoir and little holes that allow fuel to get sucked in via air pressure. Here's the start of a good few threads on ITB's - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55119-making-my-own-efi-intake-system/ The links in the thread are screwed up. Here's the others. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/87009-dereks-efi-itb-manifold-pricing-thread/

Search "92mm" or "92 mm" and other clutch words and you'll find some threads about making sure what you end up with works. The fork and slave cylinder and master cylinder all give essentially the same stroke, no matter what transmission or clutch is being used. The key is to get the starting point right. That's determined by the collar (where the fork sits) and the pressure plate "fingers". It's that stack height that matters.

The shafts fit the differential so spline count is whatever it is. You can't choose. You might be confusing hub shafts with differential shafts. Hub axles - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html See the threaded end for the retaining nut? A long-nose open diff is the stock diff for a 1977. Probably original. The diff that you're buying should be designed for Nissan's spines so the stock 300ZX CV joints, with splned axle attached, should work in the diff. Then you want the shortened axles to put those ends on - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/z31-half-shafts.html You can also take the stub axles from your open diff and use them in the helical, with the u-joint half-shafts. You might do the job piece-meal to be sure the diff is right before you spend on the CV conversion. The u-joint halfshafts should work perfectly until you get the CV shaft parts. You will need either the 27 OR 39 spline hub axles to use the CV shafts though. Because the bolt pattern of the flange needs to fit the CV flange. That's why it would be simpler to just install the helical and use your current u-joint halfshafts first. Then focus on the CV shafts with adapters for the wheel side. The only aftermarket stub axles created for diffs are the Subaru axles to allow the u-joint halfshafts with the Subaru diff. The factory diff axles have been strong enough. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31 I probably just added more RPM to your spin, but good luck.

I'd start a new thread with a more descriptive title. Like "is anyone using the T3 mustache bar with an R180?". And focus on whether or not theirs fits without compressing the bushings. That's your real question right? It doesn't really matter what Nissan did with their bar. There's a lot of extra stuff in this thread, with upside down and poorly lit pictures. It's hard to get through. Maybe SJ could tell where he saw the modified cross member in Post #17. Actually, I just found it. It's an RB swap so may have been lowered on purpose. http://www.ontariozcar.com/ozc/forum/forums/buy-sell/1852-240z-part-out-full-interior-rb-swap-4-11-r180-multilink-s13-suspension-etc

Thought I saw a reply to this already. Looks like a decent deal. People seem to be happy at $600 - 1000. You might consider what you're going to do with the body after you strip it. Even the salvage yards require a title, I believe. You might be breaking some laws. And you're not supposed to be selling parts unless you donate. And use the correct forum.

Just reinstall the Nissan R180 with the T3 bar and determine if it 's the T3 bar or the Subaru diff that's the problem . If the measurements aren't possible and you have the parts you might as well swap them and figure out what combinations work and which don't. If the Nissan diff doesn't work with the T3 bar then you can focus on the T3 bar. If it does fit then you can focus on the Subaru diff differences.

Those pistons won't work because an L24 block's bore is too small, not too big. 83mm. Specs. are in the FSM, Engine Mechanical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ You haven't defined the job, so no way to tell if they'll do a good one or not. A very common new builder's problem. Parts with no objective. Datsun Spirit could probably get you some super lightweight pistons in a smaller bore. He probably has them just not listed on his site. If you still want them. ITB's are just one small part of the package. The holes that allow and control air to the cylinders. You have to have a way to supply fuel to the TB's. Search Derek's past threads, he built his own ITB's and used Megasquirt for fueling. Get the books by Monroe and Honsowetz about rebuiliding and modifying. They're a good starting point. Could be one reason that you're having new ideas no one else has tried. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049

This might not be true. No offense. Lots of manufacturers out there.

I think that I used a long screwdriver with my finger as a fulcrum. Not positive. It's a "brute force" operation.

Who is "they"? If you show people what docs you;'re working from they can go to the same ones and draw their own conclusions. Who knows, you might be misinterpreting what you're reading.

Well, that was the impetus for the RT design so you're on the right track. Your angles might be the determining factor in how you proceed. If you need a higher nose, maybe a shimmed stock mount and a snubber on top. If you need a lower nose, maybe the GM mount on top with or without a snubber on the bottom. The basic RT design has a lot of flexibility in how it's used. The mustache bar ends are pretty loosely held so urethane makes it less floppy in general. I solved my diff noise transmission problem by using washers on the ends of the sleeves to create a small air gap. Basically created a longer inner sleeve). The way that they're designed with their inner sleeve. the urethane gets compressed when installed and transmits more noise. My theory.

One of these might make it easy to remove the nut, of the correct size of course. I removed one from an old broken transmission. Didn't even want to think about putting it back together. http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-85203-quadbox-ratcheting-wrench-13-16-7-8-15-16-1.html