NewZed

This is where writing skills come in to play. The phrase "instead of" would have helped. "S14 instead of S13". Then "if I use S14 calipers would the Z31 rotors work?" You wrote an unclear question then insulted somebody who gave good advice. Good luck. The internet is not really free.

I read your description as one cylinder (the MC is two cylinders stacked - in series basically) doesn't drain back and one does. With an open bleed screw you're not really generating any pressure. The back cylinder pressurizes the front cylinder. Most of the FSM's have a really good drawing of the MC internals. Some study there might give you a clue. But... Seems like you might be focused on an observation of something that doesn't really matter, along with the clicks at full stroke, which the MC will never see. Is there an operational problem?

Read the MM web page. You could have answered your question in the time it took you to write and edit your post.

Where's the pictures? Which end, under the front cover or at the adapter plate? Curious, I've never heard of anybody blowing up that bearing. Usually it's the one in the adapter plate that goes. And I'm not sure which of the two go, the main or the counter., And how did it blow? Ball bearings everywhere? Was there other damage? Interesting problem, you should add more details.

Why inch your way down from what is damaging your engine? Crank it way down to where it's gone and inch your way back up. If the head has been skimmed, you could have pretty high CR. But, the fact that it "started just recently" would indicate that the setup can work without detonation. More detail than "just recently" might offer clues. How long did it run well, what changes have you made recently, etc. Ideally, you would just dump as much information as you can in to a thread like this, in the first post. People will get bored and go away if it takes hours to just to get to the simple stuff. It took 10 hours just to find out what your timing was set to, and now 8 hours later, it's not even there, it's at 10. Good luck.

It's worth a lot to anyone that's converted their 240Z to an EFI system. The 240Z tank ports are too small for the fuel flow of an EFI pump.

How fast does it advance from idle? Put the light on it and take a couple of simple measurements. Maybe you have a broken advance spring. Also, for troubleshooting purposes drop the timing to 5 degrees. Don't hold on to the number you want and try to make it work, Figure out what the real problem is first. 15 is already higher than spec. You have more advance than spec,, and a higher CR than spec. on an engine that likes to detonate. And, when did it start doing this? Are you familiar with the engine or is it new to you? Could be you're spinning your wheels on a bad tank of gas. Just because the pump says 97 doesn't mean it's 97. When you say you tried race gas, do you mean you drained the tank and refilled with "race gas" or just put a few gallons in? And, as I understand things, in certain parts of the country "race gas" means methanol. And they mix it with Mountain Dew and drink it, then go to the hospital. What's the octane rating of your race gas?

How about a number? Are you running zero advance? Or is initial set to zero?

It's not normally done. There's only a tiny stub at the top of modern injectors after you cut the plastic away. Not much to fit a hose and hose clamp on to. And it's not a barb, it's just a round tube shape. Looks like these guys are doing that modification and selling them as replacements. But it's kind of a hack job. The injector companies put those barbs on there for good reason. With no flare and no barbs the hose could easily pop off. https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/nissan/280zx/ pallnet sells rails for the Z engines that will take o-ring injectors. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/page-15

IR is infrared, and it's basically another name for radiant heat. The system is a powerful heat lamp that melts the powder from the outside. Probably possible to find a set of conditions that work, but I wouldn't try it unless I had lots of throwaway parts to test on. Thick parts really need to be pre-heated, or heat-cured to get a good consistent, well-bonded, finish. Power coating is simple in concept but developing a good process takes time. I can't imagine setting up an IR lamp that's hot enough to melt and cure a powder in an interior of car, unless the interior was devoid of rubber and glass. You'd probably get a better idea of how it works if they supplied the instruction book. " included instruction booklet's cure charts to determine how frequently the light should be moved." I'd think that any coating that could be cured using this system wouldn't be a very durable coating. Edit- actually there are low temperature powders out there that might cure to be fairly durable. Used for furniture for example. You'd want to spend some time defining what you're expecting from the coating before choosing a system. I can't imagine curing one area at a time without getting a blotchy appearance.

You don't need to know TDC to adjust the valves. And you don't need to adjust the valves yet, just check lash. All you need is a set of feeler gauges. And you can turn the engine by putting the car in 5th gear and rotting a wheel. Turn it until the valve you want to check is on the base circle, off the lobe. Lobes pointing up. Don't make it too complicated. Make a chart, take the valve cover off, measure lash on all of the cam lobes that are properly oriented, and turn the engine over to do the others, until they're all done. Do it cold so that you'll have the same conditions for all and take your time. Then decide if they need adjusting. The reason you can get rich in single cylinders is because the multiport EFI system squirts the same amount of fuel to each cylinder. There's an assumption made that the same amount of air is entering. Not like throttle body injection or carbs where the fuel and air are mixed first, then distributed.

30 amps implies high current. The only thing that draws that much in one shot, without blowing a smaller fuse, is the starter motor. You could disconnect the battery cable from the starter lug, and run a nut and bolt through the lug to reconnect the power supply to everything else. Turn the key to Start and see if the fuse blows. If it doens't blow you've isolated the problem to the starter motor. Advice based on "attempt to start" meaning turning the key to Start.

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt/pd858294/KAMEARI_L4__L6_LIGHTWEIGHT__BIG_VALVES_ http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-lightweight-big-valve.html

You should put Quaife in the the title. R200's are still out there in the wrecking yards for $90. Nobody that knows Quaife costs is going to be interested in a plain old open R200.

Do you have a meter? Or any other kind of testing device? Eyeball alone isn't going to do it.

Are they out of spec.? A used factory part might be better than a new aftermarket part. You should change your title to reflect what you're looking for. A comparison of quality between brands. Rockauto has a couple of choices - http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,engine,intake+valve,5544?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

Just joking. You often hear that "the engineers must have done it this way for a reason" but nobody knows for sure. Maybe Nissan designed the pressure plate to fit the transmission. Maybe they just got lucky.

Just a guess: I think that the flasher needs a certain amount of current (heat) to actuate. You might have low current. Your right side is probably not very bright, maybe just needs a cleaning. Bad ground maybe. Or bad contacts in the Hazard switch. Power runs through the Hazard switch on the way to the switch and lights. Check Body Electrical for an easy to understand wiring diagram.

Based on further research I withdraw my comment about just using a stock gasket and running it. Unless you pull the ring from the groove, or the ring is flattened in to the groove. Fraught with peril...

My mistake. I was thinking of the o-ringed block only. In that vein though, you could go all the way and do the block. Either way, I think that you're supposed to use a certain thickness of ring, depending on if you use both grooves or just one. If yours is too thick, designed for two grooves, it could stand up the other sealing surfaces. Better check. Some say head OR block, some say head AND block. http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/blocktooling/org.php http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0108-isky-groove-o-matic/

I'd set a head gasket on the bores and if the metal sealing ring of the gasket covers the o-ring grooves, just put it together and run it. Unless you're building a race engine that you plan to use and abuse. Why'd you show a picture of the head and not the o-ring grooves?

So that you can adjust the pressure to zero? Where does the pressure start and where is the gauge located in the system? Is it pump unplugged AND zero pressure. Or is it one or the other. Coincidence. And, as soon as I plugged the pump back in it died, OR is it as soon as pressure increased it died. One could be electrical and one could be fuel pressure. Kind of sounds like your injectors are shorted and wide open, flooding the engine. You can check that with a meter. Key On they should measure the same on each terminal of the plug (measure from the back of the plug with the injector still connected to the injector), about battery voltage. If they're shorted one side will measure lower voltage.

This can mean so many things.

Pretty sure he meant conformable during the installation process. And the word is friable. Fryable means cookable. Anybody working on an old car with original parts is probably looking at asbestos in brake pads and shoes, and clutch discs. Much more of a worry than a static gasket clamped between two pieces of metal.