NewZed

Remove the drive (propeller) shaft and turn the output shaft by hand and you'll take out all of the other possible grinding possibilities. It's a pretty simple problem. Don't forget to drain the fluid first to avoid a mess. Look for chunks and fine shiny stuff while it's out.

http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-big-brake-kit-240z-260z-and-280z https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=wilwood+240z

Either you messed something up or it was messed up when you got it. Hope's probably not going to help you. Stiff shifting might get better, but awful grinding rarely goes away.

Just recalled that some (maybe all?, 2 v 4 pinion?) CLSD's are open through the center of the diff. So if you have one axle out the other can be knocked out from inside with a drift. Don't get the point of the drift stuck in the lathe spindle point (whatever it's called) hole in the end of the shaft.

You'll only preload the spring if the shock absorber/strut is fully extended. Depends on your springs and spring rate and how high you lift the car. The stock Z car strut has some preload with no weight on it, but a low rate that lets the car drop under its own weight. There are many interactions to consider.

An oiled chisel, or a few of them, will work as ramps to lever out the flange. Stick them between the housing and the underside of the flange and tap them in. You might bend the edge of the oil seal but you're probably replacing it anyway.

I'm just wondering. I can see letting an opportunity grow in to something bigger. But if jdmpowerhouse was in the works from Post #1, that would be a bit disingenuous and make you think twice about the whole story. If you pay jdmpowerhouse for the diff, it wouldn't be a surprise to find that the mfactory warranty is void. Better check that mfactory will honor a second-hand warranty. If jdmpowerhouse is a small LLC, they won't have the resources to honor any warranty, let alone a lifetime policy. One bad diff could wipe them out. They only have two products shown on their brand new web page. The road to hell and all that... see Senza Pari.

Don't forget the 280Z mustache bar and curved transverse link (aka dog-bone).

Sounds good. I'd worry about the funky lights-throttle interaction now.

http://www.jdmpowerhouse.com/ Hey man. Things like the above are a little worrisome. People have been on the site pretending to be professionals and taken money for crappy products. Now you're saying you're just a guy and his dad trying to help the community, but you have a professional-looking web site going up. So which is it? Are you a business, or just two guys playing with cars?

It attaches to the same spot it was at with the switch installed.

You can have gap OR tire diameter, if you set a certain distance from the ground. There's no way around it.

This means your tire diameter is too small. Get the tire diameter that gives you the body height and gap that you want then fit the suspension.

Good luck. The 240Z R180 pictures in the FSM's show the flanged axle. Looks like Nissan was shifting to the complete one piece halfshaft, similar to the ZX CV halfshafts, for the 280Z's. Learned something new.

I think that you just need a set of these. But the R180's confuse me because I've never had one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-nissan-R180-axle-axles-yokes-240z-260z-280z-280zx-1970-1971-1972-1973-/252315140130?hash=item3abf278022:g:16IAAOSwoudW4Okt&vxp=mtr

I think that you just need R180 bolt-in axle flanges, instead of bolt-in half-shafts. I don't really understand which cars have which. Your thread title is misleading, your problem has nothing to do with "automatic" besides the fact that they came with R180's. jmortensen's thread shows what you want yours to end up looking like. Clip in versus bolt-in. Don't know how to get there. He seems to imply that the older R180's used the bolt-in flanged axle. So maybe you just need to find an older R180 and take the bolt-in flanged stub axles. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ John Coffey's work implies that the early R180's had the flange you want also. I think that you just need an old R180. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles

Just curious, but post pictures of the Ermish R180 kit. They don't really show the parts on their site. http://www.ermish-racing.com/custom-suspension-items

You might give your u-joints a good look. It's hard to tell that they're loose without really prying on them. Stick a screwdriver between the yokes and reef on it with a bright light to see movement. Why do you think that your R180 halfshafts look different from the ones in the FSM? You can see the bolt head. Maybe you've been looking at the Subaru R180 pictures.

The red above would be what's called pumping up the system. Air in the system is overcome by pumping. The hydraulic system is essentially self-adjusting if the mechanical parts are correctly adjusted. There's no adjustment at the slave cylinder. I'd check the play at the pedal first, especially since you installed a new MC. You can adjust the rod out without removing anything, just use pliers and twist it in place. And rebleed to remove all air traces. You might have a small amount of air and too much mechanical play.

Unfortunately it's not uncommon for a new cam to get damaged/destroyed. A few people on this forum have had brand new cams get flattened. there's general knowledge and there's some tricks but it seems to come out of nowhere for some people. You can install an internally oiled cam in a previously externally oiled cam head. The oiling depends on the cam, not the head. From my perspective DatsunSpirit is East Coast.

You should put your problems in your words just to be sure. Besides that, the OP's description is 5 pages back. And, he described a multitude of problems. It would be odd if you had all of the ones he did, identically. Even better, start a new thread.

Bagged, generally when people offer very specific advice it helps if you address those specific items in your reply. Matt gave two targeted things to your exact question, and I'm not sure that you addressed either. You didn't address spark output, and I'm not sure that his "Fixed Angle" is in the same category as your "Use Table". Isn't the other option "Fixed Timing" in the "Fixed Advance" box? "Fixed Angle" might be a different parameter. Find the box that has Fixed Angle in it. Anyway, he covers many forums, I believe, so might not be back right away. Get the specifics and get back. Good luck.

Thanks Matt. That's two specific things to check that should help him out. I sent Matt a question specifically about using the 83 CAS. For my own illumination. I would guess that the settings need to be right even with the DIY wheel. With luck, a couple of clicks should get the OP past this problem. And on to new ones. Edit - weird how sympatico CM and I are. Same timing....

All that I'm saying is that mobythevan made the 83 turbo CAS work, and his writeup was so good that DIYAutotune includes it on their web site. Along with other work by him. If you follow his advice, you should get his results. And, as I understand things, your Haltech application is simulation only, not actually running an engine, so not really relevant here. I get the urge to be knowledgeable. I'm throwing out ideas and offering possibilities. Nothing is certain, only the OP can determine that. When the OP comes back with a "win" we can all make a note, for future reference. This is all just words and thoughts until that happens. If it looks like I don't respect what you're writing it's because it doesn't fit my own personal criteria of "relevant". The OP can choose the advice he wants to follow. That's the beauty of the internet. You can ignore the people you don't agree with.

Basically you're just giving MS a CAS signal way ahead of time. It does its calculations and grounds the coil after a certain wait time, to trigger the coil a certain number of degrees ahead of the Initial timing number that you set using the advance table fixed timing. I took a picture of where you might be going wrong. You never talked about physically setting the Trigger position of the CAS, as Mobythevan describes. Not clear that the 60 degrees you show in your screen grab actually applies to a 60 degree CAS shift. Your system has no room to work in, to set timing advance.