1 fast z

I actually told her I was gonna buy a 1981 Datsun Diesal Truck this week, and she was like WHY, we have SO many other vehicles, I said, OK. She actually likes the Fairlady, she just gets annoyed at how I spend more time with it than her! HAHA. We actually bought the car the day we got back from our honey moon, so it was like "honey you know that extra money we have left over for the honey moon, can we use it to buy this ugly old car?" HAHA.

SOme pics here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133481

Thanks for Calling and letting me know you were going!

If we are talking about Arizona Z Car source, then yes, they do excellent work. Jeff Gordon (owner) is a super honest guy and easy to get along with. I know he has done quite a few restorations, with happy customers in the end.

I took alot of time on mine. When I first got my 2+2, I actually hated it, but because it was RHD, and cheap, and GOOD condition, I worked with it. This is what I ended up with.

I found that the OD of the bushings for the original shifter is not the same od needed for the fidanza shifter. You might get lucky though. I belive I made them out of colpalmer accetal (sp?)

The ones that came with my aftermarket shifter were WRONG, and WAY sloppy, so I made my own bushings.

I own a RHD and I gotta say, its not that impressive. Leave it on the left side. DEFINITLY not worth the hassle.

I could make a turbo KA have twice the HP as a stock SR and be just as reliable for what an SR cost. Plain and simple. There IS NO replacement for displacement.................

3mm wall thickness is as thin as I like to see on a boosted engine. On an NA motor you can go down to 3/32" and still be safe. Yes the main thing is sonic testing alot of blocks and finding one that isnt all pitted up on the inside from people cheaping out on antifreeze!!!!!! An N42 will always have more wall thickness than a F54.

When I did my swap about 8 months ago, I found that the main problem is that you cant angle down the motor enough with the big trans case to get it aligned easy. I built new crossmember mounts, as I did not feel comfortable with a long remote trans mount. I actually did build one, and strengthend it and beefed it up, but it put so much moment arm force on the mount and twised it down in the rubber mounts. Yea getting used to that shifter TWIST when you are in the neutral gate takes some getting used to!

I made 492 RWHP on 17 PSi with the SMALL turbos. I caclulate now with the bigger turbos it is around 560 RWHP with 17 PSI. Since were throwing numbers out there. .

Here are some pictures of my Solid Copper gasket and oringed block.

Well this past saturday I got her back on the road. Man my new timing setup, is SO quiet now. I hate loud timing systems, and I worked especially hard this time to make it super quiet as well as rock solid cam timing. The new HKS cams, seem to make good power as well. They are 264 duration, and 9.6mm Lift. Maybe once it gets a bit cooler here in Phoenix, I will get her on the dyno, and see if I can make my 750 RWHP figure . Well here are some pics of the setup now.

We custom built a flywheel out of a plate of alluminum for another car before. We even made the Starter ring gear all in one peice out of alluminum also. We were extremly concerned about mass.

What level of copper was the gasket made out of? What sort of heat treat/annealed process was taken with the gasket?

You did not set it up correctly then. A solid copper gasket will outlast a set of pistons when it comes to detonation and boost, IF and only IF setup correctly.

I should have some pics on my website of my Twin turbo Twin cam setup with Solid Copper head gasket, with .045" stainless wire oring round each cylinder.

Basicly it works the same way, as finding TDC on #1, 6 piston. Then finding Center of Max lift on each cam, with the #1 piston at TDC. Then rotate the intake cam clockwise if looking at the front of the motor 55 degrees on the cam, which would give a 110 degree on the crank. Then do the same operation on the EX cam, but rotate it 57.5 degrees counter clockwise if looking at the front of the motor, which would give 115 degree center line from the crank. Atleast this is how I look at it.

For a Z car, it has to be above 2.4 liter in MY book. A four cylinder is NOT cool by me, but thats my opinion. A L28et, can have More HP with alot less trouble than any SR or CA, or RB20 for that matter. There are guys with stock motors, but bigger turbos, and correct fuel management, pushing 450 RWHP.

And I was really hoping you were gonna send me your module, like you said, HA.

Out of all of the motor choices out there, CA18 has got to be one of the worst in my opinion.

First, WHY? Second, no, there all cast or forged.

Like, I said, I have yet to see a bad module . Glad its up and running.

Bernard is being modest. He does his BIG HP numbers with VERY few hardware mods.