johnc

Heavy porting and bigger valves are generally for higher rpm and more compression then what you are planning. I would try the 300 duration, .525 lift cam since you already have it and install the bigger valves. It should be good from 4,000 to 7,000. You'll need to change your rear gears (depending on tire size) If you already have the parts, might as well use them. You might find you like more power up top.

My advice... Build the power band in the 4,000 to 6,500 range. You'll need a cam with a 290 duration and a lift around .530 to .550. You won't need bigger valves then what comes stock on an N42. Just a good full radius seat and port cleanup.

Weight is another place to look. My BSP legal 240z weighed in at 2,105 running 15 x 8 wheels and 2,165 with 16 x 10 wheels.

There is a lot you can do to build a BSP engine. The internal engine build limitations are the same as for SCCA ITS. Way back when Keith Thomas' L24 made 208hp running SUs. You can legally get .5 more on the compression ratio by using projector tip plugs and have the machine shop set the valve seats proud into the combustion chamber (max limit spec'd by Nissan). There are other machining tolerances that a good machine shop can take advantage of. You can run a light flywheel and pressure plate. Intake is open. Exhaust is open'. Ignition is open. 200hp is easily within reach.

Do you a 240, 260, orca 280? Do you Have a LS1 installed? Do you have the VAs in front and the HAs in back or vice versa? In the pics the springs are not coil bound. Was the car jacked up when you took those pics? Jdmwerks is Stagg. Jack is probably the guy answering the phone.

If you're building a 500hp engine with a used engine as the base, IMHO, you better crack that block open and make sure everything is in good shape.

At the 500hp level I would want a lot more sensors and control then what I understand Megasquirt can support. The level of aftermarket support for the L-Gata engine and RB25 are pretty much equal here in the US. Look beyond the typical JDM store and you'll find a lot of stuff for the L-Gata engine. Again, its pretty much a toss up.

Toss a quarter. Either one can do it and your money will be in the engine management system and tuning.

Yes. Put races in a freezer and warm the hubs up with propane torch. They will tap in easily using a hammer and a brass drift.

^ Agreed. Of the early cars you'll want to find a 432 or 432R if you can afford it. Next would be a Fairlady ZG.

You should be able to measure and do math to come up with an adjustment amount. It's about 1/8" IRRC.

Troy has been making those CV conversions for at least 6 years, mostly in the 510 world. He bought the second set of the Subie side axles I made. Both Todd and Troy used the same CVs and shafts in their kits. The only unique parts are the adapters.

I give you tree fiddy.

Just go to Home Depot and find a 12" length of pipe that fits well inside the strut tube. Measure and cut it to length.

It's an interesting project but it's not an economical one. Your savings with Miata parts will be offset (by orders of magnitude) by the fabrication costs. As I said, it's interesting.

That's a pretty complex weldment. Was it designed and built in Japan or the UK?

Adjust the valves, set the timing, sync the carbs, adjust the mixture.

Interesting reinforcement for the LCA mount on the crossmember. I can't tell for sure but it looks like that reinforcement also limits for/aft movement of the LCA in a worst case (big rock) scenario.

Aluminum corrodes in water especially if the water is alkali.

"Interesting. So from a design perspective, what is the purpose of having greater resistance with more turn on a manual rack?" Its not designed that way. It's the result of caster and reduced leverage from the rack to the steering arm due to the angles. Typical for a front steer car.

Normal. The rack boots have nothing to do with steering effort. Get used to it or go to the gym.

Should be fine behind a stock L24 or L28.

I've media blasted a few of those Chinese manifolds and the base material might be stainless but the welds are made with 70S-6 and there's a lot of sugaring on the inside.

I would disassemble and try to rebuild the factory Nissan rally struts before cutting the tubes up for the Bilsteins. You can always sell them to pay for the Bilsteins later and just cut up a generic set of struts.

You can go to 280ZX of Z31 front struts and that opened up the whole Bikstein 36mm (P36) shock selection including their Motorsports 36mm units. Contact Bret Norgaard at Yawsport. https://m.facebook.com/YAWSPORT?refsrc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FYAWSPORT