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Showing results for tags '280z'.
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From the album: The 5.3 Project
$984.85 shipped to my door. Wheels of Time -
From the album: 75' 280z
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From the album: 75' 280z
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From the album: 75' 280z
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From the album: 75' 280z
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I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
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Hello, I'm totally confused on how I should get my RPM working through my MS3 main board in my 77' 280z. I'm using the Hall sensor off the negative side of the coil. However, I did the rookie mistake of installing both the section without points and the negative coil trigger at the same time. Even if I try the VR circuit only, I still don't get a tach signal. So I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I burned something out or destroyed the board, because no matter what I try it never produces a signal for the megasquirt main board. Thanks!
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Hello all, My name is Allen, I am in need of a transmission for my 78 280z, and I am located in NC.I would like to find a '80 280zx 5 speed, but anything (other than a 4 speed) that will fit in the car and maybe have a bit better gearing would be lovely. Any help would be appreciated! Allen G.
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Some pictures of my Z -
I'm looking for a dash for a 1977 280z coupe. Doesn't need to come with electrical, just need the dash itself. PM me with price shipped to 53220
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So I just finished up swapping an 81 l28et into my 76 280z. Runs and drives but far from a smooth running car due to only having a downpipe haha. Using the n42 intake seemed like a good idea at first but I really didnt study up enough on it. Problem number one: the turbo blocks where the crankcase vent goes into the manifold. My solution to this problem was to just run it back into the J pipe, figured this was pretty much the same thing as before just without the little check valve and now it is behind the throttle. Problem number two: What to do with the other line I had running from the T connector, that was connected to the vent on the valve cover and airflow regulator, back to the j pipe. I ended up capping it off and didnt really see any change in performance. I guess my question here is how important is the airflow through everything? Does the air regulator actually need to be connected before and after the throttle? I think this will be much easier to diagnose after I get an exhaust on the car, but for now its just running poorly.
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So, my question is does the front strut housing off of a 240 bolt directly into a 280z? The only reason why I ask this is because coilovers, and sectioning the struts is easier and cheaper on the 240 struts and instead of cutting and welding the strut housing onto my Z I wanted to see if I could just bolt in the whole front assembly and save myself some headache.
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Hope this isn't a dumb question, but I've been looking around and can't identify this switch or what it does? Trying to look through wiring diagrams and no leads either, it looks like it was made to mount on the the metal housing for the stereo behind the center console. Messing around with it didn't lead to any obvious results.
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Hello, I am in need of a few factory nissan/datsun parts for my 1977 280z. I am doing a factory restoration and would like to keep it all original parts if possible. Factory air intake tube everything before throttle body except AFM. This includes stock blue airbox/hoses Braket for fuseable links Braket for Carbon Canister and a Carbon Canister Braket for AFM 4 bolt on the bottom of AFM Almost all Brakets that are on the passanger side of the engine bay Stock Radiator -This is off an automatic car with A/C If you are doing a part out of a 280z and have alot of miscellaneous engine bay hardware that you cant get rid of let me know. zspeed22@gmail.com or PM me on here.
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Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks -
I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?
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Hello, I am after 4 separate switches/relays that are on the passenger side of the car. If you look at the attached picture I have circled in red what I need. Pressure SW. (A/C Only) Magnet Valve-Vacuum Source (A/C Only) Compressor Relay (A/C Only) Starter Relay w/pigtail harness (Automatic Trans Only) This is based off a 1977 280z with an automatic transmission and A/C. Please PM me if you have anything or email me at zspeed22@gmail.com. Thanks,
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I am going back in with all my suspension and have come to the realization that I do not know if I should use the gland nut washers on my car. The whole reason I pulled it apart was to get rid of the clunk I had and after some digging around I found that the whole thing might be due to the gland nuts not being tight or the use of the washer that came with the Tokico blues I installed a few years ago any help would be great. car info : 1975 280z , Tokico hp blues,(( msa? lowering springs just being installed)) Thanks ! Will S. with out washer in with washer Gland nut wrench
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I have been trying to learn the dang offsets for the different size wheels and widths for these s30's and cant seem to get rid of the headaches i get from trying to figure this all out. At first I thought the more negative you go, the further out it sticks, then a friend told me i was backwards, and now I have given up. I have zg flares on the way to the house, wont be installing them until I get rims and coilovers installed. I want to go ahead and get wheels now because one of my rims has a little dent in the edge causing a tiny little leak which makes me put air in the tire about every two weeks. But ANYWAYS, i hate stance, I love big lips on these s30s and I want a 255 on a 9 inch wide wheel. I want the widest footprint I can get, obviously for good handling, but little to no camber in the rear (about 1-2 degree max in rear and 2-3 degree max in the front). What offset do you guys think would be best? i can get some spacers to dial it in perfect when I get the wheel but 16x9's with zg flares with little to no extra camber...? attached pictures are of the stance i like
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Please delete.
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Looking for the interior door panel for the driver's side door for a 75 280Z. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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I am looking to buy lowering springs for my 280Z that is riding high since it went on a diet and shed some weight. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo
