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Showing results for tags 'DIFF'.
Found 16 results
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The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.
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Looking for a finned cover for my R200 LSD. Preferably in good shape without any broken fins.
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I have an 1989 3.9 R200 long nose. I need a good reliable LSD and I want CV's if possible. I bought an OS Giken NS046-HA LSD for a short nose R200. It is for a 1991 240SX open diff. I have used this diff numerous times in SX cars up to 450whp with good results so I wanted to see if it would go in a long nose. I put on new carrier bearings and used the original shims in the same locations. The ring gear bolts are smaller than the holes in the LSD but it is hubcentric so I just bolted it on. I have done this on SX diffs numerous times with no issues. There are spacers available if this worries you. The backlash and preload were within specs. First thing I noticed was the thick spacer is on opposite sides in the 2 diffs. This had me worried since the stub shafts are interchangeable between the 3 (280Z, 240SX, Z31ZXT). I tried these stub shafts in all 3 diffs. The groove is slightly wider on the SX stubs so I widened the groove on the Z31 shafts. They worked and locked in either way but the Z31's were very hard to get back out and a wider groove with slightly rounded edges matched the SX grooves better. I bought the Z31 axle shafts and flanges from Checkered Flag Joe. They are very beefy. It was no big deal to change shafts. Pull the c clip on the outboard end. Knock the inboard end off by hitting on the race. Change shafts and put it back together. The flanges are much heavier than stock and a tighter fit on the stock 280Z stub axles but went on with minimum fuss. The Giken's are very good and tunable diffs. They drive like stock, with no chattering, on the street but hook up great. They have 20 or so discs. Actually the steels and clutches are all steels but it works. I use Redline NS oil in them for the first 300 miles and then change to Giken fluid. It is very spendy. I couldn't find if this would work or not so thought I would share my experience. It works. Be sure to use an aftermarket LSD for an open diff SX and any one should work in a log nose R200 with either Z stubs or Z31 axles.
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I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.
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Hey anyone running a obx lsd in a r200 using the 280zx turbo or 300zx tripod axles? If so is your passenger side axle slightly floppy? Were the axle goes into the diff the last 10-12mm that enters last has a step up on it before the actual tripod housing has play there and the axle can be grabbed and moved up and down some. Its not just me znke has the same problem! Does the small step portion of the axle seat into the diff or does it float and the only thing holding the axle straight is the splines and wire clip? Anyone?
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Hi. Looking for an R180 with limited slip, 3.9:1 ring & pinion which doesn't need immediate admission to the Intensive Care Unit. Alternatively, could do with a fresh LSD unit to install in my existing 3.9:1 R180. Also, unlikely to find one, but looking for an Electromotive XDi (or XDi2) distributor-less ignition system for six-cylinder (box, three-coil unit, trigger wheel). I'm in Phoenix. Thanks. -
I am looking for an R200 rear differential for my 76' 280z. I need a direct bolt-in unit or one with all the parts to make it fit in my 280z. I would prefer it to be LSD of some sort and a gear ratio of either 3.90 or 4.11 to match my 280zx 5-speed transmission. I am located in Northeast Ohio.
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Looking for an R180 open 4:38 diff (marked with a K on the top of the case). I will be replacing all the bearings and seals so that is not a concern. Shipping will be to 01730. Email to: john@baddogparts.com
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Hi, Looking to buy a transverse mount for an R200 swap into a Series 1 240z. Preferably in the SF bay area or in California so I can drive and pick it up/cheap shipping. Thanks, Liam
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I'm looking for a 1985-86 200sx turbo diff Thanks
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Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and should be one of the stronger parts in my drivetrain...leaving the axles as the weakest link i think. My question is this...how likely am I to hurt any of the axle parts with these street tires and my automatic? Both on the street and at the track (assuming i hook pretty well)? Have any of you broken them in the middle of a pass? (not off the line). I also would like to put maybe a 150 shot on the motor, as the motor was running on nitrous regularly in the previous car. I'd be looking to squeeze probably in 2nd gear...and I'm wondering if even that might be enough to shock one of those parts enough. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .
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Hello, I am looking for a mustache bar from a 280z or late 260z, has to be for r200. Sorry to all the people that contacted me before about this, I thought I had an r180 but as it turns out I have an r200. Thanks, Cooper.
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WTB Z31 Turbo LSD (87-89) and 16x8 +0 Offset 4x114.3 Enkei 92s Open to other kinds of wheels, but they need to be those specs,. Could go 17 or slightly different offset, but must be an 8 inch or bigger wheel and fit a lowered 280z. Please reply to this thread and I will get back to you! Thanks, -Travis
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I do recognize that this topic has been documented many times before, and believe it or not, I've read most (if not all) articles pertaining to this, on this site and others. But it is clear as mud. Here is my guarantee: if I can find help here, I will make a VERY PRECISE and WELL PHOTOGRAPHED swap so that others in the future aren't as confused as me. I own a 1971 240z, and I want to drop the the R200 that came out of a '94 Q45 (there has been even people speculating that the Q45 had a R230, but from most sources, it is an R200). I've retained the inner CVs with a 6-bolt flange pattern - the halfshaft axles and outer CVs are gone. Someone I know is parting a 1979 280ZX, and the diff has already been picked by someone else. I was thinking I could grab the moustache bar, front diff mount and rear control arm hanger, but some documentation suggested that only up to 1988 280Z (not X) moustache bars would bolt in. Will a 1979 280ZX moustache bar bolt into my 1971 240z and accept the R200 from the Q45? Is the front diff mount and rear control arm hanger worth picking from this 280ZX? As apparently the CVs weren't implemented in the N/A 280ZX (this car has u-joints), I'd like to use other CVs. Someone else has Z32 300ZX (n/a) half-shaft axles - they have a 5-bolt flange on the differential side, and just the one-piece CV/stub axles on the other (is there a proper name for this?). some documentation says that the Q45 CVs accept 30-toothed splines, which the Z32 TT has, but not the N/A version (which has 29). Really Nissan, REALLY? There has been some articles suggesting that pathfinder axles are a good fit (length-wise, tooth-count wise) - keeping in mind, I still need two wheel-side CVs on the 30-tooth splined axles. Then there are the dreaded stub-axles. Can I use the 280ZX stub axles and companion flanges in the 240z? On the companion flange side (CV-side), what bolt pattern will I be expecting? 6-hole (3 pairs)? Seems like I'll need to find either the proper outer CV to mate to it, or machine an adapter (which will affect the overall length). I am aware that several companies offer kits that would make my life easier, but I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at the rear end of the car right now. As a bonus question; is it worth getting the rear brakes off the 280ZX? I see many people have done it, except adapters must be machined to hang the calipers. Are the 280ZX housings the same, and could the whole thing be swapped into the 240z control arms? thanks so much, Sim http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/
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wtb 300zxtt differentia r230 text 702-718-9052 thanks..
