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The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.

By chance has anyone on this site changed the gear ratio of a 1989-1996 Q45 differential? My project is to change the 3.54 gears in a Q45 differential to the 4.08 gears from a NA 300ZX. The Q45 differential is currently installed behind an LT1 and 700r4 transmission in a 1976 280Z. Thank you to anyone who may be able to give me some information.

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster here. Quick intro: My name is Dirk, I have a '73 240Z and '70 510. The 510 is the car I've learned to wrench on since I got it a few years ago. The Z has become my rolling project and daily driver since I bought it about half a year ago. Powertrains are stock-ish on both but I'm planning an L28 NA build for the Z. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have completed a bunch of moderately challenging projects on both cars, but I'm entirely self-taught and far from an expert. My questions: I'm getting ready to swap a Subie R180 Torsen diff from an '08 STi into the Z, a fairly fresh used diff and the betamotorsport stub axles are on their way to my home, as well as a Ron Tyler mount while I'm in there, and I've done a bunch of research on the swap so far. This is the best illustrated how-to I could find on the swap: http://inzane240.blogspot.com/2014/01/subie-r180-install.html At this point, everything but swapping the input flange seems really straightforward to me. The best thread I could find on that topic was this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90321-r200-clsd-mounting/ But since that thread is about a different diff than the one I'm going to use, I'm not sure if the same tolerances and advice apply. I'm asking specifically for advice on how to retighten the flange nut in the best possible way so I end up with a safe, reliable set-up. What I believe so far is: The flanges should swap straight between my stock open R180 and the Subie R180 I can remove the nuts for the flanges on both diffs with an impact I might need a puller to get one of the flanges off, but probably won't When putting the Datsun flange on the Subie diff, I should put red loctite on the nut and tighten it to around 137 ft-lb The Subie diff doesn't use a crush washer for preload of the bearing or anything complicated like that, so no to count rotations of the nut when coming of, or to measure flange thickness. I can just tighten to spec, and then just check that the diff still rotates freely. If you see any errors in the above, please let me know. Now the next steps are where I'm getting a little lost and this is where my lack of expertise as a mechanic shows: When tightening the nut with an impact, it's really easy to overdo it. But when trying to using a torque wrench the diff will spin before tightening that nut. I see a few possible options to do this, and would like to hear your recommendations (or if you know of an alternate approach that I've overlooked, even better): Put the diff on a bench, put the flange in a vice. This allows me to tighten the nut with a torque wrench without spinning the input shaft. (seems like the best option. only worry: damaging the flange with the vice). Assemble input flange but don't fully tighten it, install the diff in the car, connect half-shafts to it but before connecting drive-shaft, put on the parking brake, raise car again, and tighten the input flange nut to spec while on the car. (seems like the surest option as long as I don't forget to tighten the nut. worry: seems like a hassle and means that if anything binds internally after tightening – e.g. seal against flange – I have to remove the diff again) Just jam the nut on there with my impact driver (I have an electric one that's capable of delivering somewhere between 150 and 250 ftlb of torque), even if that over-tightens the nut. (quick and dirty, worry: damaging something by over-tightening) Approach 3 is what Jon Mortensen recommends in the above-mentioned thread, just get it RFT. But since that's about a different type of differential than the one I'm working with, I didn't want to assume the same advice works equally well for the Subie diff. I'm leaning toward option 1, since it seems the most straightforward way to get to spec. Option 3 also makes sense to me because I'm probably going to use a similar approach to tighten all the other nuts to spec (half shaft to stub axle, drive shaft to input flange). Any advice or recommendations appreciated, thanks!

My boyfriend owns and 81 280zx turbo automatic with an R200 differential and half shaft axles. At the moment the car is having an issue of a clunking noise in the rear end whenever we let off the gas and the rear end jumping to its own direction. Both do not happen constantly. You can also hear a grinding noise and whining constantly. I have looked everywhere and can’t find a new diff or even a whole new rear end. I have already spent over 2000 on this car trying to make it run right and am trying to prevent him from scrapping it. Any suggestions please?!

I need an R200 LSD Differential for my 240Z swap. Looking for one already converted and locked. Will pay up for the right one. Will only need stubbies if you have them. Thanks in advance for the help.

Info: 1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD Problem: First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc.. I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime. Please help! I attached pictures of the part.

So I decided to remove my rear diff which is a 3.7 and install a 3.9 I had laying around. When I romoved the back cover on the one I removed from the car I noticed a little piece in the centre (first pic) that the 3.9 I planned on installing did not have(second pic). Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of locker?

Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.

I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.

Currently have an R200 w/ the 3.9 gear ratio. Looking for 4+. Anything available out there? Seen a lot of the shortnose R200 that came in the 300ZX or 240sx but not sure if that will work because the pinion gear being different.

So I have a 1974 260z that I'm putting a sti r180 rear differential into. I've got a mustache bar and control arms from techno toy tuning, along with wolf creek cv axles. When I try to put the front mount of the diff in place it flexes the mustache bar and the differential seems to be tilted too high in the front. When comparing to the stock parts the rear cover on the diff has the studs in the same place and the two differentials look identical. The hole locations and offset of the original and techno toy mustache bars are correct but he factory steel bar seems to have a bit of twist. I can't tell what I'm missing here and wanted some input.

I am looking for an R200 rear differential for my 76' 280z. I need a direct bolt-in unit or one with all the parts to make it fit in my 280z. I would prefer it to be LSD of some sort and a gear ratio of either 3.90 or 4.11 to match my 280zx 5-speed transmission. I am located in Northeast Ohio.

I am looking for an R-200, 3.90 ratio. Thanks.

Hey guys, need some help with a little issue I have been encountering, and havent really come across a answer in the search section SPECS early 260 w/ sr20det light to mild mods(stock turbo) suby 2004 3.9 lsd rebuilt 240z axles wolf creek racing axle adapters MY BACKGROUND degree in automotive science six years working for Benz as a master tech ISSUE: popping noise & vehicle hops in tight turning reverse, forward motion turning, or taking off(normal load driving) breaking u joints HISTORY About seven months ago I decided it was time to replace the stock 260z diff after blowing up its guts, After much research I picked up a 04 suby lsd off ebay used, had the diff rebuilt at known shop(seals , pinion and ring gear replaced), and installed it into my 260z using wolf creek racing axle adapters and stock 240z half shafts with new u joints. The diff was filled with motul 90pa, fluid specifically made for that diff. After being proud of my swap, it was off to testing the diff out and performed the break in procedures including the 20 or so mile drive with letting the diff cool to harden the metal. Everything seemed ok, but after 50 miles I started to notice a clunking/popping noise coming from the rear end & and the whole car would hop(during clunking noise) as if you were driving with a flat tire. This would happen when reversing down hill from my drive way and turning, or making forward turns from a stop, or when starting to move under low/normal load, or making large 180 degree freeway off ramps turns. When I inspected the diff I found the side seals leaking oil, and wondered if their was something wrong with the rebuild. I took the car back to the diff shop, who actually started yelling at me and swearing when I told them the car wasn't right and I wanted them to check it out. I asked them to inspect not just the diff, but the drivetrain for binding. Before the rebuild the shop was told to spend extra attention to the clutch's, due to the cost of replacing clutches vs just picking up a new diff. Talking with the diff shop about the problem, I asked again about the clutches, turns out they did not torque test the clutches or test the clutch adjustment, just visually looked at them and demand them ok. After a week at the shop, it was time to pick up the car. the shop said they drove the car all over and said the noise was due to no lsd additive and the wrong fluid. I showed him the suby recommended fluids and the motul site indicating that it wasn't needed, and he basically told me to GTFO and that he was perfect. Leaving the shop, heading home, within 20 miles, the diff starting popping around the corner and I lost the passenger side half shaft at the inner U-joint. The car ended up sitting for a month or two due to my schooling and work demands keeping me out of the garage. Last week I finally found time to swap the axle with a spare one I had laying around. The car seemed to drive ok for about 15 Miles, until I reversed out of a parking space making a corner....then the infamous popping noise came back. You can spin the tires free hand in the air, and you feel light resistance then a little moderate then light again, but I think thats just from the brakes(doesnt look like the axles causing it) MY THOUGHTS: I don't know if the clutches are causing the wheels to lock up and cause this issue, but that seems kinda unlikely. I am leaning more to an issue with the axles coming out of the diff at to much of a angle causing them to bind when rotating. The adapters seem to stick out a little far for my liking, but I have not seen a photo of them installed on another car to see if this distance is normal. However other people run this set up and haven't mentioned this concern. I would love to swap the axles out to cv joints, but have not found a shop that builds custom axles( I want the axle to have a suby inner to eliminate the adapters and reduce the angle), and honestly I'm pretty over spending a crap ton of money on this thing(I'm a paramedic student, poor as hell lol). I am also reluctant to spend over a grand on axles, knowing that this may not fix my issue....sooo hard to justify that one just yet. CALL TO ARMS!: This whole situation sucks, I spent days swapping the motor, and building the car, and now this issue, ugh. I'm ready to kick this car to the curb, but before my last straw breaks, I am humbly requesting assistance. Any ideas would help, any experience with this swap, any pictures of adapters installed, ect. I am located in the bay area and the only real rear end shop near me happens to be the one that told me to GTFO. I can try and get pictures or a video over the next few days if that will help anyone whos interested in this challenge.

Wanted 81-84 Maxima R180 Differential w/ or w/ out CV axles from an automatic (3.70 ratio). If you know or have a lead on one please let me know. Needed for the 810 project. Thanks,

You guys are pretty on top of correct info, so here it is set to the experienced. I have two r200's out of a 76 and 85 both being 3.54 and found out its not going happen finding 3.9 r & p gear anywhere. At least I have the turbo cv shafts now . So now im on the prowl for a 3.9. My 260z late model is going be cruise, fun, proud car to own, not track or drag. It's going have the ls1 t56 or auto tranny. I see that one guy has a pretty cool bolt on set up for a ford 8.8 irs but going keep an eye out for a r200 for now. May even just grab a 80-83 MT NA r200 pumpkin being they are all 3.9, just not an lsd. ....So here is my question. I have read sites saying the r200 ratios for the 87-89 300zx NA being 3.9 and the turbos being 3.7 lsd...as the link from this site send you. Another site says they are all 3.7. The 4.11 would be fun but might be too much for what im going do with it. I realize i can just pop every cover off every one i see in the yard and check numbers on gears, but rather not until i think i have the right one..lol Save me from the insanity.

Hi, Looking to buy a transverse mount for an R200 swap into a Series 1 240z. Preferably in the SF bay area or in California so I can drive and pick it up/cheap shipping. Thanks, Liam

So I've reached a point where my research capabilities are failing me. I want to use an OS Giken Superlock in my longnose r200 (I know there is some mention of bushings to match bolt sizes? Not sure, but my diff builder said it was no issue). I know they have one for the 240Z R180, but there is no specific mention of one for the R200 from the 280Z. Are there any other long nose R200s that are identical such that a posi made for it would work in my current housing? I will be running the AZC suspension/brakes all around, 19 inch wheels in the rear with 305/30/ZR19 Hankook RS3s. Thus, I am also trying to figure out which rear end gear ratio to use. I'm rebuilding this diff right now and I want to do it right the first time. I should be making around 600rwhp (HCI LS7). My plan is to use the 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1, .8, .63 T56 Magnum (I think the taller 1-3 ratios will help with traction). The car will be a fun HPDE car for road courses, but will make the occasional trip to cars and coffee (Performance is more important than low cruise rpm). The car will not see the drag strip. I know all of this requires a stout rear end setup, so I figured the OS GIken + AZC setup would be a good start. Any other recommendations are welcome. Not sure exactly how crazy I need to go axle-wise to avoid issues. Thanks in advance for the help -- I'm trying to do this once and do it right!

looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .

I'm looking for a good condition R180 to replace my worn out , clunking one on my 240z. Anybody have a spare one?

Hello, I am looking for a mustache bar from a 280z or late 260z, has to be for r200. Sorry to all the people that contacted me before about this, I thought I had an r180 but as it turns out I have an r200. Thanks, Cooper.

i have a 350 sbc in my Z and i want to know if someone here has an S10 differential and how it was installed.. i want to do the same to my car

WTB Z31 Turbo LSD (87-89) and 16x8 +0 Offset 4x114.3 Enkei 92s Open to other kinds of wheels, but they need to be those specs,. Could go 17 or slightly different offset, but must be an 8 inch or bigger wheel and fit a lowered 280z. Please reply to this thread and I will get back to you! Thanks, -Travis

I do recognize that this topic has been documented many times before, and believe it or not, I've read most (if not all) articles pertaining to this, on this site and others. But it is clear as mud. Here is my guarantee: if I can find help here, I will make a VERY PRECISE and WELL PHOTOGRAPHED swap so that others in the future aren't as confused as me. I own a 1971 240z, and I want to drop the the R200 that came out of a '94 Q45 (there has been even people speculating that the Q45 had a R230, but from most sources, it is an R200). I've retained the inner CVs with a 6-bolt flange pattern - the halfshaft axles and outer CVs are gone. Someone I know is parting a 1979 280ZX, and the diff has already been picked by someone else. I was thinking I could grab the moustache bar, front diff mount and rear control arm hanger, but some documentation suggested that only up to 1988 280Z (not X) moustache bars would bolt in. Will a 1979 280ZX moustache bar bolt into my 1971 240z and accept the R200 from the Q45? Is the front diff mount and rear control arm hanger worth picking from this 280ZX? As apparently the CVs weren't implemented in the N/A 280ZX (this car has u-joints), I'd like to use other CVs. Someone else has Z32 300ZX (n/a) half-shaft axles - they have a 5-bolt flange on the differential side, and just the one-piece CV/stub axles on the other (is there a proper name for this?). some documentation says that the Q45 CVs accept 30-toothed splines, which the Z32 TT has, but not the N/A version (which has 29). Really Nissan, REALLY? There has been some articles suggesting that pathfinder axles are a good fit (length-wise, tooth-count wise) - keeping in mind, I still need two wheel-side CVs on the 30-tooth splined axles. Then there are the dreaded stub-axles. Can I use the 280ZX stub axles and companion flanges in the 240z? On the companion flange side (CV-side), what bolt pattern will I be expecting? 6-hole (3 pairs)? Seems like I'll need to find either the proper outer CV to mate to it, or machine an adapter (which will affect the overall length). I am aware that several companies offer kits that would make my life easier, but I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at the rear end of the car right now. As a bonus question; is it worth getting the rear brakes off the 280ZX? I see many people have done it, except adapters must be machined to hang the calipers. Are the 280ZX housings the same, and could the whole thing be swapped into the 240z control arms? thanks so much, Sim http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/

Hi, I have a 1972 240z with some mods from the previous owner, so there are a few things that I'm not sure about. I believe that I have an R180 diff (because of the rectangular back cover). But the gear raito seems to be 3.70:1 (18 tooth blue speedo gear) and speedo is accurate as far as I can tell (my wife was in her car next to me verifying speed via cell phone... yeah... I'm high tech). The speedo was off by about 5mph, but thats because there was a 17 tooth (black) speedo gear in the trans, I switched it to the 18 tooth (blue) speedo gear and that fixed that. My tires are pretty much stock (well, stock size, zx rims) 205/7O/R14 so I don't think the speedo was off because of that. Here's the problem, I don't think Datsun/Nissan made an R180 3.70:1 For a Z car, at least, I have not been able to find any info about such a differential. I did a lot of research and I found that Nissan did make an R180 3.70:1 in the Maxima, Manual trans, but I have no idea if that's true (internet source) . I suppose it is possible that the previous owner put in a maxima rear diff. I know that there was an R200 3.70:1 in the 1979 280zx 2+2 with manual 5 speed trans, but I don't believe that I have an R200 in my car. Soooooo, I have no idea what kind of differential I have. I don't want to take the back cover off right now to look at the stamping on the gears. I would like to put a R180 4.11:1 in (that's from a 84-88 NA 200sx, right?), Or the R200 4.11:1 (85-86 turbo 200sx) Or any other 4.11:1 that is easy to swap into my 240Z. If you have any idea whats going on PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!!. I'm stupmed, and I don't want to pull the diff cover off if I don't have to. Thanks in advance, Matt-