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jhm last won the day on December 31 2017

jhm had the most liked content!

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About jhm

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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    Hampton, VA

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  1. Help NO START

    May have crap in the fuel lines, the filter(s), or the pump itself. Any rust or sediment that may have been in the tank could have gotten stirred up during the tow and is now plugging the fuel lines at some point. If this is the problem, the only permanent solution is to drop the tank and clean it; disconnect all lines and blow them out; and replace the filter(s) with new/clean ones. If you go this route, this is the right time to replace all the rubber fuel lines with new hose. Good luck with it.
  2. Bump...new package deal: $60 for everything shipped anywhere in the US!!
  3. LS1 Powered 1973 Datsun 240z

    Lovely. Be interested to see how much this sells for....it's only at $12K so far, with 2 days to go. GLWS.
  4. Just bought a case of Valvoline VR1 today....Amazon carries it but I found some locally at the NAPA store. Royal Purple also looks to be a good choice that's available at many chain auto parts stores.
  5. Cheapest option is probably going to be USPS Flat Rate medium box: $13.65. The bracket is 14" long and it's going from east coast to Utah, so shipping won't be cheap. May not be worth it for a $5 part. Lemme' know what you think. Thx.
  6. I've been doing a lot of research on this specific topic lately, and one thing that stands out in my mind is that Grumpyvette recommends ZDDPlus as a regular oil additive.
  7. Thx for the reply, Grannyknot. And thank you also for the input on3/4" vs 1". May pick up a pair just to keep them on hand...I'll post my impressions of them if I get them.
  8. Primadonna Z #2 is on eBay

    ....and right-hand drive.
  9. Anyone know anything about these? Seem to be a bit cheaper than others. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Bump-Steer-Spacers-3-4-Thick-w-Bolts-240Z-260Z-280Z/112836474872?_trkparms=pageci%3A0e2e2b53-1b6a-11e8-b929-74dbd180e7fb|parentrq%3Ad5323e881610aa47a51b11a7ffff9831|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236
  10. Heater blower assembly from 1973 260Z with air conditioning. In good physical condition, no damage or rust, fan spins freely, defroster flap operates smoothly, bellows still soft and pliable, wiring and plugs in good shape. Tested on battery, and blower blows hard and pushes a lot of air. Compatible with other years if you have similar plug configuration. $20 plus shipping. Thanks for looking.
  11. Strut tower brace

    The strut brace is sold. Thx, DAT240z; and thx to others that expressed interest. r/John
  12. Strut tower brace

    DAT240Z, I have a shipping quote and tried to PM you again, to no avail. Got the same message "DAT240Z can not receive messages". If email or cellular text will work better for you, send me your contact info. Thx.
  13. OEM springs - FREE

    I have 8 OEM springs, absolutely free to anyone willing to pay shipping and Paypal fee. Four are from an early-model 260, and four are from a late-model 260....I honestly couldn't tell you which springs came from which car. They're all roughly 15 inches total length; and they're all roughly 12 mm wire diameter (except for one that is approximately 11 mm wire diameter....weird). Post here or PM me if you're interested, and thanks for looking.
  14. Strut tower brace

    Hey DAT240z, thx for the reply. Yes, it's still available; but I would have sold it to LS6 if I hadn't heard back from you today, so I'm glad you were able to get back on the site. I'll get you a shipping quote this weekend. In the meantime here's a couple pics of it in my '73 260z, which has the same short rear struts as the 240. (The guy I bought it from had it in the rear of his '72 240z). Sorry, LS6240z....looks like it's sold; but I'll certainly let you know if anything changes. Thx very much for your interest.
  15. Might possibly also be the ignition switch wiring (which runs alongside the steering column) or the switch itself. The harness is designed such that full amperage runs through the switch, and when connections get old and corroded, it starts to heat up and melt electrical connectors and plugs. A good solution is the clean all your plugs and connections, and insert a relay into the system so that the ignition switch is not carrying the full electrical load. If your battery is dying when the car's not running, there is a draw somewhere in the system (stereo, alarm, etc). A quick start to tracking down the draw is to pull the fuses one at a time and see which circuit is draining the battery when the ignition's shut off. If that doesn't do it, you'll have to dive deeper into the various electrical harnesses with a multimeter. Electrical gremlins are a pain.