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Everything posted by ZHoob2004

  1. ZHoob2004

    Fuel pump primes constantly? HELP??

    What position are you referring to? The behavior may have changed in 78, but in 77 there was no 'prime' functionality. The pump is triggered by the AFM flapper when the key is ON, and runs continually when the key is in START. I would start by investigating the AFM. Get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and start measuring.
  2. ZHoob2004

    ROM bins for L28ET 1982 ECCS

    I have one I've been working on casually for the past year or so for my Honda (maybe it's been 2?). It's still not in the car very often (though it has started and driven). The assembly process is not for everyone and I (as well as everyone else on the forum) strongly recommend a preassembled unit. It's great hardware, and it's awesome being able to request features and get them a week later with personal support, but it's still a bit behind MS3 in the software department.
  3. I want the sprayable sealer because I'm lazy and that looks way easier than masking and brushing/smearing. Plus I like the extra coverage you were able to get on the rust-prone areas under the battery tray, wiper cowl and inner fenders.
  4. I guess I'll have to ask around to see if I can find one to borrow because it's not quite worth $200 to me (though it's probably pretty close). I was going to ask if you're willing to lend yours out with a deposit, but then I checked the location...
  5. ZHoob2004

    How to remove black oil spot from the seat!!??

    Brake cleaner on a seat? I'd be afraid of it dissolving the entire cushion...
  6. ZHoob2004

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    It's hard to say how much of a problem that would really be without trying it, IMO. And with a shorter shift lever that could be reduced even further. I think the real tricky part would be that the lever will be moving opposite the direction of the engine during torque application, backwards from most cars. Another issue I just thought of is that on stock-like mounts the tail of the transmission probably doesn't just move side to side, but more likely in an arc/ellipse which means there is an up/down component that might need to be considered, unless the shift linkage already takes care of that. Not sure if it's relevant or not, but old manual transmission Hondas (FWD) use a shifter setup that's somewhere in between chassis mount and transmission mounted. There is a long linkage assembly that is mounted between the transmission and chassis with rubber bushings and the shift lever pivot is contained in the tail end of the linkage. Later K-series Hondas use a cable actuated shifter which would need to be adapted to a rwd transmission, but would allow complete freedom of lever placement. Another option would be a linkage setup between the original shifter on the transmission and a newly fabricated lever on the floor, but I don't think that would really solve many of the issues except for moving the shift lever forwards.
  7. ZHoob2004

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    I may be missing something (never dealt with these transmissions before), but would having the shifter pivot mounted to the chassis really cause any problems due to the transmission moving? As long as the shift lever pivot allows enough extra freedom of movement that it never binds I don't think there would be any problems with the pivot being solid.
  8. I'm really intrigued by the sprayable seam sealer. Did you purchase the gun specifically for this project, or is it something you already had? I want to do this on my car, but I don't want to invest the $200 that most guns seem to be demanding.
  9. ZHoob2004

    Wolf creek stubi

    I think the half shaft fits into the axle, not the other way around, meaning the adapter should be heated. But I agree, a sharp smack with just about anything ought to separate them. Be less gentle, nothing is going to break.
  10. ZHoob2004

    Wolf creek stubi

    Heat the adapter with a torch; they'll come apart.
  11. ZHoob2004

    A/C removal question

    The compressor and the idler pulley both mount to the same bracket, and that pulley is only there to adjust tension on the compressor. You can remove all of them with no issues. It'll be a lot more obvious once you're there looking at it.
  12. ZHoob2004

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    This is another good reason. If nothing else, you could get a few hundred each for the motor, diff and trans. Could fairly easily make back your money and probably more.
  13. ZHoob2004


    I believe historically OEMs have avoided integrating high current drivers directly into the ECU so that when they burn out you don't have to replace or repair your ECU, just a separate ignition module. Many manufacturers use either an external ignition module or integrate them into their "smart" coil packs.
  14. ZHoob2004

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    If you have the time, I'd buy that for $500. I probably wouldn't touch it if it needs any significant rust repair though, because again, $500.
  15. ZHoob2004

    Custom 280ZX Hood Vents

    I suppose that explains the quality difference over my home unit. I would have to make so many changes to print this that I might as well build a new printer.
  16. ZHoob2004

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    What about welding a bolt to the bearing? You could weld a bolt/stud onto the center race and grab it with a slide hammer. Should give the same effect as a standard puller, but a little more destructive.
  17. ZHoob2004

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    Have you tried a pilot bearing puller? https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/oem-clutch-pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/230517_0_0 I don't know if you have enough clearance behind there or not but you can borrow one from autozone and give it a try
  18. ZHoob2004

    75 280Z - Won't shift gears

    It's a sealed system, so if it leaks any fluid there's something wrong. Luckily the whole clutch system in these cars is easily accessible and really inexpensive to replace, so even if you do all of it you're not out much. When you've replaced the cylinder, bleed it just like you would your brakes.
  19. ZHoob2004

    Custom 280ZX Hood Vents

    Slightly off topic, but what's your printer setup and settings? Material? I'm pretty impressed by that pattern on the inside of the lenses, is that designed in or just your infill setting? Also what kind of post processing are you doing?
  20. ZHoob2004

    75 280Z - Won't shift gears

    Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Get someone to push the clutch in and watch the slave cylinder/lever to see if they move. If they don't, or it moves a little, check your master cylinder for fluid and bleed out any bubbles. If it does move, then something might be wrong with clutch itself, the release bearing, or the collar.
  21. ZHoob2004

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    A catch-all term used to refer to using a modern hub instead of the stub axle setup, such as AZC or T3 rear uprights that use bolt-on hubs.
  22. ZHoob2004

    L24 pully and belt?

    At minimum, you need a belt for your alternator and water pump (where the fan bolts onto). In this case, it looks like you are missing the water pump pulley. The belt will go around the rearmost groove on the crank and line up with the other two parts. You can do without the mechanical fan, but that would require an electric fan and control system as a replacement and from what I've seen that's more trouble than it's worth for most people.
  23. Sheet metal work is just finishing up on my 77 so I'm getting ready for paint and I'd like to know my plan is decent before I commit myself any further. Car will be a driver, so I'm not looking for a showroom finish, just something nice enough to make me look back whenever I leave it in a parking lot. I don't have a paint color picked out, but I want white. Currently the plan is to use Summit's single-stage pure white. The hope is it will be easier for a beginner like me to spray and I can easily repair any mistakes or damage. Planned sequence: 1. Strip - get the car sanded to a good base with 80 grit. Feather any cracks or chips so I don't get flaking, and fully remove any questionable material. 2. Filler - Thinking of Summit again here, their "Lightweight Autobody Filler" is $17/gal. I've watched a few videos on filler and it looks like you do a nice thin skin and then block sand it back flat again. 3. Epoxy primer - Seal the whole car, inside and out. I understand I can do this before or after filler, but I think I want to do it after. I already have a gallon of this and catalyst. 4. High build primer? 5. Base coat - Single stage, so the clear/base are effectively one. 6. Color sanding - Sand up to 2000grit and then buff/polish. So a few questions: Is the Summit "system" decent quality, or am I likely to regret using their stuff? Will the chosen color look good, or will it look like I fleet truck? Is the high-build primer step essential, or does it depend on the car? Anything I should change anything about my plan, use different products, do a different order? I understand this is a lot of questions at once. I'm grateful for any amount of advice given.
  24. ZHoob2004

    Preparing to Paint - Any Advice?

    I've reviewed that PPG painting guide as well as a few more forums and I think I have a more solid game plan now. 0. Finish metalwork (this was sort of implied, but I'll add it here) 1. Strip, sand, grind, etc 2. Epoxy primer to seal metal 3. Filler/blocking 4. primer surfacer/more sanding 5. Seal coat of reduced epoxy 6. Base coat 7. Finish work For anyone curious, the reason epoxy is recommended before filler is because the filler is porous and can trap moisture against the bare metal, causing eventual rust under your paint. Epoxy first ensures the metal lasts as long as it possibly can. I want a tough, uniform color underneath my base coat in case of scratches or rock chips, so I'm going to reduce the epoxy and apply it as a sealer right before I shoot color, which should give me what I want while still giving me the most durable foundation possible.
  25. ZHoob2004


    That looks like a dealer installed AC kit, so I don't think that's going to be in any of the manuals