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HybridZ

NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. This might be an old thing but many new "members" are putting web links in their Profiles as Contact Information. These three have joined within the last couple of days. https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/58739-alileyla986/ https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/58740-kats-botanicals/ https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/58741-brazilian-hair-wigs/
  2. If you're on a computer, hovering your cursor over the flat line will cause the cursor arrow to turn in to the link selection "hand" and the link location will show up in the lower left corner of the page.
  3. The latest. NY. One post. This one has something hidden in the flat line under the post. Shows up when pasted though. dynamonsworld.com
  4. This one is just weird. Doesn't know that the topic is a rim, not a car.
  5. This one is extensive, but still pretty wrong. If anyone is actually not a bot feel free to reply with words that make sense.
  6. Here's another. They all seem to choose New York as location.
  7. Just for fun I'm collecting these posts from new "members" with strange names, only one post, and comments that have odd grammar and seem pointless. Here's the first. "It" quoted one of my old posts.
  8. AI must see Hybridz as a good testing ground. Will be interesting to see how it develops.
  9. Could this be AI? Who knows. By "resister pack (sic)" the AI probably means ignition module. The ignition module on the distributor wasn't introduced until 1979. So, wrong words used to describe the wrong year. And the last post was seven years old.
  10. Turbos are so popular today that you can find them all over the place. Even OReilly Auto has an inexpensive Dorman line. The race shops have neat looking braided lines but the automakers use solid steel. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/turbocharger---supercharger/turbocharger-oil-line/37ad2bed2d4d Really though, if you have flaring tools you could just buy some steel tube and make your own. It's low pressure, a 45 degree flare should be fine. Good luck. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-oe-solutions/fuel-delivery/turbocharger---supercharger/turbocharger-oil-line/37ad2bed2d4d/dorman-oe-solutions-steel-turbo-oil-line/doe0/625813?pos=7
  11. The heat is on the inside. Seems like high temperature hydraulic fluid hose would be better. Can't think of any fuels that are meant to be transported at high temperature. No offense, it's just the wrong stuff for the application. Even a wrapped hose could just end up as an oil-soaked sponge next to the exhaust manifold and turbo.
  12. Not an expert on these things but - I don't think that fuel hose is rated for the temperatures it might see from hot turbo oil. I've seen interesting steel flex lines. I just saw a video about Toyotas with rubber hoses, not even that close to the heat. They degrade over time. I'll see if I can find it and link it. Might have some ideas in it.
  13. Because anybody can say anything on the internet. The answer is probably in a very deep-diving psychological study. .
  14. Looks perfect. Nice photography too. Easy to compare with the FSM drawing.
  15. Check the fit of the injector in the rail. Can't tell if you're using o-ring or barb. If it's o-ring the leak is there, if it's barb it could be around the barb threads or the fit of the hose on the barb. But the tops of the injectors rarely leak. It's a fuel rail leak, not an injector leak.
  16. Removing the plugs on an L engine is so easy it would be foolish not to do it. Take them out, disconnect the coil negative wire so that the wires don't spark and the injectors don't inject and spin the engine. Cover the holes with rags or paper towels to collect the spray. Beware of sparks, have a fire extinguisher handy. Check your oil for fuel. Injectors don't usually leak. Sounds more like the injector circuit was grounded and the injectors were held open electrically. Better check your wiring. Be careful.
  17. Fusible links can still show voltage and continuity even though they're melted. A few strands of copper might survive. If they've blown they'll be discolored and crunchy inside. Take them off and see if the wire inside is intact. It seems like you might have done the not uncommon thing of reversing your postive and negative cables. Or you connected the negative cable to the wrong stud on the starter. You caused a direct short when you actuated the starter solenoid. The positive cable connects to the starter's copper solenoid stud. The negative cable connects to the starter mounting bolt. Don't assume that red is positive and black is negative. Check the + and - on the battery and follow the cable to its correct position. The fact that you are seeing continuity to ground on the positive cable might be because you fried the solenoid and it is shorted inside. You can test that with your meter by disconnecting the cables and measuring resistance from the starter solenoid positive terminal to the starter body, where it mounts to the transmission. Just some things to check.
  18. The Nissan-made green injectors have a string of numbers on the plastic body. Like 0014xxxx, can't remember exactly. The numbers don't tell much except that they were made by Nissan. They used colors to identify flow rates. Bosch injectors have 0 280 150 105 or similar, the last two numbers can vary. The numbers identify the flow rate. Check for numbers.
  19. If you get a Pallnet rail machined for o-ring injectors you'll have a wide range of salvage yard injectors to choose from. If you stick with barbs all there will be is aftermarket turbo injectors. The factory turbo injectors were a dark brownish purple color. The ones in your pictures look like NA injectors which were green or tan. If they've been open to the atmosphere for a while they might be rusted and sticking inside. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1209361,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224
  20. So, just to summarize - you want to switch from the 280ZX turbo distributor and DIY wheel to the Jeep sensor just to get rid of the big ugly distributor cap. It hasn't been clear why you wanted to make the swap. The reason is not function, it's appearance. Nothing wrong with that. It just hasn't been clear.
  21. Found one. Hard to Google, the words cap and cover don't really work. Too bad they have Barney on them. The guy must have been a fan. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/ignition/280zx-turbo-crank-angle-sensor-cover
  22. When you say "sequential" do you mean coil-on-plug or sequential injection? People often use the same word for both. The distributor cap is sequential by design. One after another.
  23. Post up the link, let's see it. I've seen the caps that cover the hole if you lose the distributor entirely. Can't remember seeing one that covers the functional cam sensor disc.
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