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A couple updates here. On Rayapp2's 81 slicktop turbo, I was able to decode and map out the 1981 turbo ECUs, those definitions are now available. The big thing here is he swapped to 60lb injectors and I successfully recoded the stock ECU for correct fueling. Found the new K value and rescaled the TP load scales and its happy. That car has further running issues that need to be solved, including the o2 swinging way more than my car does during closed loop, but the coding did its part. During this process I found a couple issues with what I was doing before, the rom chips I was using, ect. On my car I found the limits of fueling reliability on the stock AFM, which is about 200whp using virtual dyno to measure so probably inaccurate, but it should be within 10% of a real number. The boost on my car is back down to stock until I finalize a solution to make the fueling reliable. Moates has gone out of business, so my ostrich emulator is now unsupported and all the documentation is gone which is annoying. I was able to get Tunerpro working with emulation without offsetting the files, so everything gets a little easier there. Exactly how far can we go with this system? I have an idea, but its a couple months away from being fully tested.

I'll be honest I was confused when I got an update from PayPal earlier. Thanks again for all the effort.

Thanks Ryan! Puyallup eh. My wife has relatives there! Been to the county fair there once. Huge cool event!

Thank you! Excited to wear it out to Cars and Coffee next week hopefully!

Amazing work! I definitely don't have the time and patience for this, at least not now, but maybe give it a decade or two when the kids are older and hopefully work is not so consuming. Reminds me of the absolutely entrancing my mechanics 240Z resto videos on YT. I salute the people who have taken the time to get this good at metalwork.

Thanks for the update!

Hello, You have done some great job👍, i have just started the journey. /Christian

Then on to the front fender, Inner and lower. Another KF Fab part fitted in and TIG welded Cleaned up the weld beads and spot welded it back to the lower fender return Same deal on the lower fender. lots of small tack welds to keep it fron warping and small welds. I kept the original lower flange of the fender so the fit would not change. It cleaned up nicely with some blasting, and will keep the original fit and look of the fender For TIG the metal needs to be perfectly clean forpretty welds, but the overlap of the inner fender made this difficult, but they will look fine when ground back. A grinder, a file and a shrinking disk got it straight. A skim coat of filler will probably be needed to make it perfect as I cant get behing the repair to dolly it out perfect. The Hatch slam is up next

Here are pics of the front rocker panel and front fender work. All the same concept of only removing what was necessay and trying to keep it as original as possible with little to no filler. All original paint and never worked. Looks pretty good Whats hidden After blating with crushed glass Cut out the old, you can see the inside of the rocker was perfect and clean. the rust comes from the overlap of the inner fender and the front rocker. The cowl drain dumps back here and it just fills with wet dirt I bought a KF Fab full rocker and only used the small pc to repalce the area. The fit is really good on these parts TIG welded it back in. Carefully only 1/4" at a time jumping around with an air quench. Some quick grinding of the weld bead and it blends in perfect so it doesnt even look repaired.

Spent today packing up orders and only 5 outstanding. Looking forward to wrapping these all up once I work through the technical issues on these ones. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

Looks like a 1975 - 1977 280Z engine. The N42 head and block. A common engine swap, all of the L24 parts fit. Any chance the original L24 is still around, back in the weeds somewhere? It might add value. Not to send you away from Hybridz but classiczcars.com is a better fit for that car and what you're doing.

Something is controlling the fuel pump when it shouldn't, it is still cutting out here and there. I do have a pressure sensor in my bay, so I might have to run it to where I can see in the car. I also need to have the laptop in my lap to see if the whole megasquirt is going down during the pump cut. Maybe there's another issue with my ecu itself. It randomly cuts for a second it seems on deceleration (both with clutch in and out), and doesn't like when I get on it after slowing and coming out a corner. Other than that, it runs fine. Idle AFR is around 12, 3200 rpm afr is around 10.5. Running a bit rich, maybe that has something to do with the pump cutting out. Going to have to scour megasquirt settings to see if anything is enabled that shouldn't be. I loaded Cryngus' tune awhile ago and have tuned to where I am since then, so maybe he had something that I shouldn't have for my setup. Going to try to make it to Carlisle import show here in PA next weekend, praying it's not an ecu internal issue.

I just ran across this, I can't believe it's been this long. Still love the Z. The only thing I have done to it in the past several years was recovering the Miata seats with upholstery from lseat.com. is this site still active?

You sure that is controlling the fuel pump? I would expect it to control the injector instead. Typically the ECU will just command the pump on and off. I've only seen pump duty cycle controlled on really advanced setups. Do you have a fuel pressure sensor somewhere to monitor? Also DFCO shouldn't be used at all with a manual transmission, unless again you have a sophisticated system that can tell what gear the transmission is in.

My wife's father gave her a datsun 240z(1971) I kind of inherited it but its been sitting for some probably 30 years. I have since started to trying to restore it. Here is my question, the engine in it is a L28 which is obviously not original could anyone tell me what I have.

Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061. IMG_2641.mov

Some good news and bad news. Good news is, I think I solved my fuel pump issue. I had deceleration fuel cutoff at 95% and it had no way of taking away 5% of fuel, so I think it was just shutting the pump off. I’ll have to keep an eye out, it didn’t happen during my short test drive. Bad news, I think my ARM UEGO wide and is messed up. It never goes to full lean as it should, key on. it goes up, but hovers around 19. Also, when I start the car, it just goes to 0 (see pic). It sometimes jumps up to 3-4, but it sits at 0. TunerStudio won’t calibrate to it either, and just flicks from 15-19 during a drive.

So a bit of an update. The engine is up for sale. Already sold the transmission as well as exhaust/cats I had. Why? Because every time I fit the engine I was faced with the reality that either I needed to change the oil pan, intake, throttle elbow out, and then buy several manifolds to see what fits, or make custom manifolds. I'd resigned to the reality that I'd just have to make manifolds. But I just don't have the time to sit down and hammer that out. It might be a 40 hour job if I could just hunker down and do it, after buying $500 worth of supplies. No big deal right? Except I simply don't get chunks of time like that (currently). I want to just finish a swap and drive the thing. So I was entirely ready to just go LS instead. Over the counter swap parts are available, so it was just budgeting the money and doing it. Selling everything would be the necessary shot in the arm to raise the capitol to just make it happen. ...excpet... ...HOLY T56 PRICES PEOPLE! I kept an eye out for over two months. Facebook marketplace. Craigslist. Ebay. I now know most of the T56/TR6060 ratio sets by heart, and I definitely had some preferences, but I had in my mind what a "good deal" would look like for various sets and nothing was ever close. If I was just tossing money at problems I'd just get a new T56 Magnum and be on my way. But that's $3600, before a flywheel, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. Then I realized that converting a K series wasn't actually as expensive as I thought it was. Started pricing everything out, and realized I could do nearly the entire swap for the price of just a new T56 Magnum. At first I was thinking I'd used the cheap and very plentiful BRZ/FRS transmission, but so many horror stories of them being wrecked. The strange thing is that so many things indicate it should be a strong transmission, and some people drift them (one of the hardest modes of abuse for driveline parts) at 500+hp without issue. I wonder if it's just a shift fork design issue. Who knows. So I shifted and started researching AP1/AP2 transmissions. Kept an eye out, and score! Paid $800. Not 100% known to be good yet, I'll have to do some inspecting before assuming, but the guy was pretty up front about his experience. He was running 700+whp and had been through several transmissions, and this was his third. It held until he did his E30 transmission swap, and then later sold the car. He said when pulled it was still shifting great and not making any noise. It then sat outside for a year (in a bag he claimed) so fingers crossed I'm not replacing bearings or synchros. The bearing prices for this aren't bad. I can get all bearings and orings/seals for under $300 shipped to my door. But the synchros add up. The 1-2 synchro is like $266 on it's own iirc. (comes as a whole assembly with the hub gear, shift ring, etc). But it gets better. The seller was also very strapped for space and trying to see what else he could toss at me, and threw this in for free: The tag was long gone, so it took me a bit to figure out what it is. It's a Precision 6262 with the Gen2 ball bearing cartridge. It has some mild turbine denting, but the housings look unscathed. Bearings have zero play (might be able to measure with a dial indicator, but can't feel it by hand) so I could probably run this as-is. But that said, I'm going to get this swap done NA first for several reasons (cost being one). Once I decide to go turbo, I can just swap in a new wheel (found a rebuild parts supplier with new wheels for $120), and voila a solid turbo pairing for this engine. Speaking of engines, I haven't gotten one yet. I had a line on one, but due to issues with the seller we couldn't meet up. He's about 2 hours from me, so not sure when I'll get the opportunity to reconnect and see if I can get a motor. But I did find this and picked it up locally yesterday: Hard to read, but that says "K to F Adapter". There are a few companies making these, ranging from $240-300 depending on manufacture and reseller, but I picked this one up for $200 and it seems like I'll have to source my own bolts and dowels. I might be able to keep that under $20 so this still feels like a deal (though I'd still have the ship the above new prices, so maybe it's not bad no matter what). I'm tracking all the parts in a spreadsheet (which I normally do anyway) and it's looking like the budget is landing around $3600. Now, there's some hand waiving in that others should be aware of. 1. I'm going to use the existing Megasquirt MS3X box I have. Getting hondata/k-tuner would easily add $600+ to this. 2. I plan to use the OEM exhaust manifold. I simply don't see any good reason not to. I don't care if I'm losing 10 or even 20 horsepower. It's worth it to me to save time and cost to just drive the thing. 3. I already had steel and bushings in stock for doing engine mounts for the 4.6. Would easily add another $50-100 that I'm saving. 4. I have no clue what the driveshaft will cost. The AP1 transmission is a fixed flange, not a sliding splined output, so I'll need to find a shop familiar with making a shaft that can give me that half in of compliance or so necessary. Also, I'll likely need to find a converter flange to go from the AP1 output to a u-joint to cancel out the vibrations from the rear R200 ujoint. As of now I've got $500 for the driveshaft solution, and that could easily go up. 5. I'm also planning to save a few buckets by using 2NRS's K to F intake flange adapter, to use a S2000 intake. The "better" alternative is the Skunk2 Ultra Street manifold which has a reversible plenum. It's $550 and then you're still needing your throttle body, fuel rail, etc. Some of these might be source able or mix-match able with OEM parts, but for $120 I can get an adapter to use a full intake/throttle pull off out of a S2000 and that solves the problem soup to nuts. And considering some people have made well over 250whp NA on the S2000 intake I'm going to say it's "good enough" for me. 6. I'm also not buying into the "use this oil pump, use this water pump, remove balance shafts" internet myth ethos. I understand why people do that, and suggest that. But a lot of people are making changes with very little implications as to the reality of the why. These are $900-1100 motors, all day long. They might go up like B series have, eventually. But for right now, they're still dirt cheap. When people like Richard Holdner go and dyno a completely stock K24A2 with balance shafts up over 8700rpm, 280+hp NA, and 600+hp boosted, you have to wonder where the failures are. And if you go looking, and find one, let me know. I know MotoIQ, 4Pistons, Drag Cartel and other big names all say the same thing. And I'm sure if I was building a 10k motor, I'd also go with a better oil pump, remove the balance shafts, and gain oil capacity as well as ground clearance at the same time. ...or I can just buy a spare motor to store in my garage. So stay tuned. I hope to have an engine in the next few weeks and start mocking things up.

I assumed you were MIGing . My body shop friend recommended to fill with silicon bronze because it takes less heat .

Hi all new to the forum thought I would introduce myself. I'm an old school petrol head, as in the Ford Escort and Vauxhall viva days haha, I was born with oil in my blood the entire family are mechanics, just recently sold my Lexus is200 supercharged car so I'm now car less, hopefully I will be starting a new project soon, I also created a car magazine called stance auto magazine, a place for us all to share our car builds and modified whips, so let me extend an invitation to anyone who wants to share their car build story just drop me a DM or if you have some sik photography you want to share I also have a very popular Facebook page I can share them to for you, I'm always looking of new stuff , can you drop images below in forums, lol sorry been years since I was on a forum

Bought c009 thrans model cb2 and RB32 double plate clutch (os copy) . Fabricated trans adapter and modify flywheel plate in local shop.Bought arp bolts m10x1.25x6mm. I have to keep engine auto flywheel for starter.

Finally took it around for a drive. Wouldn't rev past 1700rpm. Sync losses like crazy. Guess I need to take some logs and spend some time on other forums looking for help. My wideband was working perfectly fine for awhile, then it started sending out a full 5v or more. The AFR on the gauge itself seemed accurate, but the output was just sending 5v constantly. Tried changing grounds, etc.. but no change. I think it's dead. I'll try swapping out for a new one.

I bought this for my wife, literally saved it from the crusher. Well, from being stripped and then crushed. I have an l33 Chevy LS for it. This is her dream car, she promised to do the grunt work while I do the metaphorical heavy lifting. Not my first build, not my first LS swap. Here for the tech info. Located in Vancouver washington. Any other Z owners nearby?

No, Just ER70S-2, works well with the tig and low amperage, so no distortion from overheating or cracking metal like it MIG. On headers I would use silicone bronze to weld the primaries to the flanges.The heat cycling needs the ductility of the silicon bronze, but on a body panel I dont thinkit is necessary unless you were trying to flame weld and minimize warping.

I miss the old days of the forums. I would not call it a skill, but just some practice over the years and figuring out what works, and what not to do, usually the hard way. So dont be afraid to try and practice if you enjoy this sort of thing. Its not great work, but good enough to satify myself. I have a friend who welds, he has talant