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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/19 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Some after market master cylinders do not have the large reservoir in front. As long as the master cylinder is correct in all other aspects then it doesn't matter. You can always swap the front reservoir from the old master cylinder onto the new one for a "stock" appearance.
  2. 1 point
    Hopefully you don't mind me adding my experience today. Didn't use anything except the saturn vue column and a 77 280z column. I figured a few more pictures of different setups in the thread is always helpful. I cut down the saturn telescoping joint so it would fully collapse and removed the thicker bottom portion of the female portion as well as turning it down about 1mm so it could pass through the datsun bearing at the firewall. Making it collapse fully let me just expand it to whatever length I needed without worrying about measuring the section behind the power steering motor. Then I could weld the original u-joint to the saturn telescoping joint, and pass the whole thing through the original firewall mount after grinding down the welds. Because the power steering motor was free in the rear, it wasn't as solid as I would like. Particularly the steering wheel could have tilted up because it was only held in with the two mounting screws under the dash. So I added an extra brace that seemed to stiffen it up nicely. Washers are a little sloppy I know, but it works and lets me adjust tension. All back together, doesn't stick out too much. I did remove the control box and bolted it to a thick aluminum plate as a heatsink under the dash. Seems to work just fine, haven't had a chance to drive it, I'll update tomorrow.
  3. 1 point
    I dont know if anyone has seen these guys but I just found them and decided to take a gamble on them. The kit looks to be a rocket bunny knock off. Once it comes in I'll get some photos and post them. https://carbonfiberhoods.com/vsaero-frp-tkyo-wide-body-kit-gt-datsun-240z-s30-1970-1973-106078.html
  4. 1 point
    Hi Guys and Gals, I get emails asking if I still make the ZG light covers and quarter windows and wanted to say that I do at the same price. Please email me at: mclapp5526@gmail.com with any questions and feel free to call anytime at: 816-286-6982 to talk about your car and the plexi pieces. Thanks, Mark Clapp 816-286-6982
  5. 1 point
    Well, after talking with WHP their kit does require shortened axles even though the site doesn't specifically say they are required when using their CV conversion flange. I'm going to try and shorten them myself (cutting in the c clip groove further down the splined portion as outlined on this site) - I'm sick of throwing money at these damn axles. If I can get them at least a 1/2" shorter I can increase the track with the RLCA's and should be fine. I'll report back.
  6. 1 point
    It's been a while since I've anything done to my car due to life getting in the way, however I made an effort to save some money and get some Fab work done. So far thanks to the great guys at Kaizen works here in New Zealand an R33 rear subframe has been mounted into my 280zx with custom mounting points fabbed up but everything else is standard R33 at this point. Now we are waiting for my RB gearbox to be adapted to the L series block so the car can head back for custom engine and trans mounts to be made.
  7. 1 point
    Post a photograph of the engine compartment. From this we can discern whether the original swap was the "JTR method" or the less advantageous non-setback one. If there's rust in the floorboards, almost certainly there is rust elsewhere, in nontrivial amounts. This may or may not require immediate attention, but it does merit jacking up the car (suitably supporting it!) and a thorough examination. Some rust, while annoying, is only cosmetic. This particular car evidently has a 5-lug rear conversion. Does it also have a solid rear-axle conversion? Such a conversion remains controversial even to this day... but properly done, it has its own appeal. What is the rear-axle ratio? If the transmission is a TH350, it won't have an overdrive gear, which is annoying on the highway. Lack of overdrive is, in my opinion, the main reason for why a "race car" is unpalatable on the street.... something to consider. Otherwise the standard routine is to examine and possibly refresh the engine. Do you have specs on the cam? The heads? The compression ratio? Have you done a compression-test? The standard tuning-approach applies, whether it's a Datsun or a Chevelle... lots of literature on that. BTW congratulations on the purchase! Aesthetically it looks aggressive, without being outright garish. Those fender-flairs nicely split the difference between too-much and not-enough. But I do wonder about the rear axle... the rear wheels aren't particularly wide, yet they protrude considerably outboard. Perhaps the axle is too wide? Could it be narrowed? 4-link or ladder-bar or something else?
  8. 1 point
    Ok so I put the old fuse box back in. No issues. Checked voltage on the L & R fuse block with ignition on and power was only coming into the left side like it should. I'll be calling MSA tomorrow. 😕
  9. 1 point
    Well, I started down the path. We'll call it progress. Initial rough up and flame treat. The backing pieces were secured with plastic weld epoxy initially and then gone over with alternating layers of the g/flex 655 and West 105/207 and glass with sanding in between. If I had to do it over I would have just made some 90 degree brackets with thin metal and epoxied those on added rigidity. And what it looked like before the finish cuts for the gauges. Between all the layers, the back plates are probably between 1/8" -1/4" thick. Plenty sturdy enough for the gauges. Now I'm at kind of an impasse about how to secure it to the frame. Originally I had planned on using the factory mounting holes and putting tapped spacers in between the cap and the dash and then securing with a bolt. But, between the cover not fitting perfectly to begin with, and then slightly warping with the flame treat it's off enough that the glove box won't line up. I'm not concerned about the center panel since I was just going to make a flat plate there either way but the whole thing is pretty flimsy. I can heat again and probably get it close but it will involve adding a lot of support to get rid of the flex if I don't address the void. So, now I'm toying with filling the void between the cap and frame with expanding foam to help with the rigidity. But with that comes issues about making sure the alignment is dead nuts before the pour, making sure the materials are compatible and will bond, etc etc. Pain in the ass is what this is...
  10. 1 point
    Hey sorry for the slow reply. Didn't get notified that anyone replied. Since I have Koni struts, I went with Koni's own bump stop. Part number I agree with you. Some of those poly bump stops aren't any different than not having bump stops at all.
  11. 1 point
    @calZ I just saw that thread on the body kit forum ha! I searched on google but it didn't pull that up, thanks for sharing that! @Bartman that looks pretty slick! post up pics when you're done!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    At $800 +shipping across the country, that's still a little rich for my blood. I'm still going to try and doctor the current Accu Form skin, it's just going to take a little more work than I'd thought. I did discover there is a local West Marine so I was able to pick up some g/flex and some 105/207 resin/ hardener for the skin. I went over everything with 80 grit and flame treated before applying the g/flex. Side note: I went with the 655 vs the 650 because it specifically mentioned hard to bond plastics. It is definitely more of a gel than most of the epoxies I've used. It says it can be used to fill voids I think up to .5" without needing to be reinforced. I tried laying in some glass strand just for more grip for the upper layers and it really doesn't wet out very well. BUT (!) when it dries - this stuff isn't going anywhere. That's as far as I got yesterday. I've still got to re-sand it and lay some more glass on the back side to reinforced around the gauges, then I can move on to the top and figure out the mounting. I'll get some pictures up of the process.
  14. 1 point
    So I checked over the suspension and yes, there are definitely needle bearings in the top hats below the camber plates. I have bearings for the springs on order so I'll see if they help. Yes sir, I was talking about those. I realize now those bearings aren't actually dealing with rotation of the shock body directly. I'm going to be heading to the alignment shop again soon, as I have installed some adjustment in the rear I would like to dial in. I'll ask them to take a look at the fronts again once I install the bearings and new bump stops.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. This just happens on the left side. The right side seems to have no wear whatsoever, and the spring and strut tube turn together smoothly. I'll double check if they came with bearings in the hats. I know that the gold blocks in the T3 camber plates have bearings built in. So in short, I need those bearing top hats in addition to the bearings already in the camber tops? The coilovers came pre-assembled from T3 before the install. I'll have to check if they had the hats with bearings, if not I'll definitely be getting a set. Funny that it would happen only on one side...
  16. 1 point
    Note to all posters. It is always the writers responsibility to clearly convey what he means. It is never the readers responsibility to be a mind reader. Leon has the right idea !
  17. 1 point
    It helps if you have it the right way up.... It's the combination Nissan/Prince emblem, introduced after the 1966 merger. It's a monogram with stylised letter 'N' and letter 'P' combined to form a cypher. It was derived from the old single letter 'P' Prince logo, and intended to pay respect to the history of the Prince marque when it came under the wing of the Nissan group. Here it is on the front of the Nissan R382 sports racer. This is the correct orientation:
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I know i'm bumping an old thread, but I just purchased the Tanks Inc. setup to copy what you did. Thanks for the pics and info about the setup!
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