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An example of what to avoid... the "AC" axles. It'll be on the tag, but this seller put it on the shaft as well.

Went digging in the junkyard today with the CV spider in my pocket. Turns out the 02 explorer has the same diameter shaft ends... but courser splines. The good news is its a solid heat treated shaft and its the same thickness its whole length, necking down only for the splines. I also called moser and talked to them about sending in a core shaft and paying for two pairs of CV axle spline service and they're happy to do it so long as they look everything over and it seams like it works. Cutting the heat treating off the hollow shafts just wasn't sitting well with me. I also discovered that the two left shafts are different on the ends in diameter and one had a slightly smaller cv joint pair... I'm guessing i got one v8 shaft and the other from a v6 car. Both are splined the same into the housing and at the hubs... but one is stronger than the other with bigger cv joints. The left and right v8 shaft have the same size cv joints... its just the spare left shaft had some differences. Going back to the junkyard tomorrow to compare my cv joint to the explorer outer cv. If they are the same internally i plan on building a hybrid cv. But if they're different I'll pay for 2 pairs of spline service and know that I'll never have to worry about the strength of those shafts...

Really cool. Love it. Never seen that swap before.

Thanks! I looked into that at one point, too, with the swp but they all seemed to mount too far out and would either hit the inner fender well or not clear the hood. This bracket kit for the lwp is pretty simple, looks clean, and worked well with my mostly stock wiring.

"the nipple won't stop bleeding" doesn't make sense. What do you mean? Maybe you could rephrase the question. It does sound painful though...

Another tip when measuring for brake lines....if possible, add a couple extra inches to allow for the extra suspension travel when you drop the strut and control arms to swap springs/shocks/etc. Having a little extra length on the brake flex lines makes this job so much easier, especially on the fronts.

Seems like threads should require moving to the FAQ by a mod though... But yeah, the post was curious. Seemed almost spam-like. "Dude, your answer is in your question".

Depends what you want. I like 16s and can confirm that with narrow coilover conversion RBR 16x8 +10 fit with stock arches and 225 tyres, anything that brings the wheel further to the outside of the car than this could potentially lead to the need to run 215s although you may get way with a 0 offset. Usually more choice in 15" by the way but I prefer 16" and need it to clear my brakes. Good tip, don't use the forum search, use google using hybridz.org at the start, always gets better results. I searched when I was a newbie and it took a lot of time, but the answers are there. Just make sure to check more than 1 source, ideally more than two.

Hey people, selling my V8Z. Just as an FYI, my join date shows July of '18, but I was a supporting member from way back in the day. Back then, when we were voting on a tag line, we came up with "Engineered to be Feared" and I bought one of the T-shirts we had made. Thought the old timers might get a kick out of it, so I added a pic of it. It's a little ratty at this point, but a bit of memorabilia. I bought this Z to turn it into a track car, but a car on my bucket list came up for sale and I bought it. Unfortunately, I can't keep both as I also have a 3rd fun car. Hard to justify having 3 fun cars when I have kids college fund to build up. This is a rust free California car with 383 stroker V8 swap and Borg Warner 5 speed transmission and ZEX nitrous system. It had been sitting in the back of the owners shop for a few years and needed to be gone through. But it has had a ton of money/work put into it. It has a welded in 4pt roll bar, Recaro power seats, 5pt harnesses, 11 different gauges, adjustable coil over suspension, bump steer spacers, disc brakes all around, R200 limited slip differential, strut tower braces, fuel cell, electric fuel pump, full dual exhaust, and roller thumper cam, (sounds glorious). It has a serpentine belt system and AC. I may be missing some mods, but you get the idea. It had been built as a show car back in the day according to the PO. It is NOT a show car by my standards, I call it a 5 footer. Looks perfect from 5ft away. Has a custom paint job, but there is some cracking here and there. Interior is decent, but needs some fluff and buff if your looking for a cool Cars & Coffee rig. I have replaced the oil, oil pan, coolant, radiator, oil/air filters, plugs, wires, installed rebuilt calipers all around, new front drilled rotors, and brand new sticky Yokohama's all around. It had some old school hot rod 2pc valve covers that are worth some $, I replaced with lighter ones and new gaskets. It fires right up and drives well, there is a hole in one of the headers that I just patched till I got around to replacing them, there is a lifter ticking (new set $68). PO said it made 500hp, I think that was including the NOS as it has iron heads. So I have been going through it, cleaning things up, and replacing key items, carpet in front is good, rear deck carpet needs replaced and other cosmetic things to address. All in all, you could go show build or track monster. If you are looking at these you know the prices have jumped big time for 240's. This one is far from original, but putting an original engine/trans back in would be a weekend job, if that is your thing. So I did not do this build myself, (my first V8Z Swap was a Ford 302) but I'll answer your questions as I can. The front brakes are the 4 piston Toyota conversion, the rear are from an 80's vette, all new with braided lines. It has adjustable coil overs, but the shocks are not adjustable. I don't know the make/valving as I have not pulled them. Does not have camber plates, but does have heim joint strut bars front and rear. If I kept it, I would rebuild the carb, it's a holly 4bbl sitting on a single plane intake, which works well with a stroker motor. I did a compression check and all the cylinders are around 155 psi. I'm asking $20,000 for it. Located In Columbus, Ohio. Thanks for reading this far, on to the pic's! For those who are serious, I can send specific pic's, running vids, etc. Don't know how much I'll be able to post here.

Got a new batch of flanges all done. Some of the costs went up marginally unfortunately. Now $205 Shipped and request you pay via friends/family to cut down on my fees. Jig rental cost down to $20 from $30 however. Total $225 with Jig rental, plus you ship jig to next user.

Here's a little better markup. I am asking for the length of the yellow lines I've drawn in.

No. Had bought one, sold it. Now looking for another.

What is now becoming an established annual two day event which attracts lots of S30's, Bathurst tests car and driver like no other circuit eg front end lift at 200 KPH anyone? Anyway enjoy and if you Murricans have a spare November this year, plus the necessary, ship your S30 over and take part.

On the 528 BMW insert working on the 280z's, I got that info from a person that has been running rally races for 15 years in his 280. He is sending me info on all the suspension parts he buys to make his system work, front and rear. When I get that info, I will share what is pertinent. I know a good bit of his parts will need to be changed for stiffer springs and or different valving due to him running on dirt and me on asphalt with sticky tires.

In case it hasn't already been posted in this forum, there's now a Facebook group for GTO replica owners and fans: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GTORR/

Have you read these yet? https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38592-brake-balance-faq/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/ Well from personal experience I have done this set up and the front and rear brakes can not be balanced even with an adjustable proportioning valve. They work okay but this system is overly front biased resulting in the car pitching forward because the front brakes are overloaded and the rears aren't doing enough work. A braking system has to be engineered for the car, I think if you put the stock brakes back into perfect working order and get a set of sticky tires you would be surprised well the car stops. That or go all the way and install one of the Wilwood brake kits offered by TTT, ArizonaZcar or Silvermine.

Joe called me yesterday to let me know my stub axles were from an earlier batch so no problem. How many company owners will do that for a customer? Thank you for your follow up Joe.

Yes there was a batch that wasn't annealed properly. Somehow they slipped thru their QC. Common problem is what you see here too hard the end just snaps off. If you have a set you would like to have checked please send them back to me. I will take care of it for you. Sorry for the inconvenience. FYI the manufacture just upped their price on each part by $50.00. So that puts my cost at $750.00 plus shipping almost what they sell them for. Don't forget I need to buy 10 parts at a time. Thanks Joe

RE: "Ramps Safer than Jackstands" As someone who has watched stamped-steel ramps rated at 3X the total weight of the vehicle driven upon them spontaneously collapse... "Not on my life ever again!" I will NEVER use a ramp of stamped-steel ever again, as well as those three-legged jack stands that look like they were made from muffler tubing split a 120 degrees. I have a solid wood set of ramps I use, and an injection moulded plastic set that I use. Once the car is up on the ramps SOMETHING blocks it there, and SOMETHING is under the frame. *** As for pulling the pan...it's all above, nothing insurmountable...usually biggest issue is the Nissan Applied gaskets are like a subatomic bond with the block and pan and splitting them apart can be a chore even with a special Nazi-Era Scraper that you can whang in there with a rawhide mallet to separate the surfaces. I tend to spray up into and onto the inner block surfaces with brake cleaner to prevent oil from rolling down into the gasket area while mounting and sealing. I use the brake cleaner into each of the bolt holes to prevent oil up inside from coming out and making a leak path in the sealant. Finally, I use studs on the reassembly, all sunk in and sealed (to prevent the oil path mentioned above.) The use of studs allows me to make them long enough to accommodate 1/2" 'sandwich plates' similar to that used on later L28's and L28ET's to spread the clamping function of the pan bolts (nuts) without deforming the pan rails. They are made from 1/2"x1/8" or strap steel I get at Home Depot's metal rack. I make the rails straight, put the clamping sandwich strips on there, and use Flanged Nuts to squeeze it all together. There are two studs that are longer than the rest situated diagonally opposite corners...I put the pan with sealant on it up until I can get a flange nut started on one, then the one in the back... This lets the pan sit without touching the flanges for a final inspection and maybe alcohol wipe before pushing it up to sealant contact and finger tightening those two nuts. After that, you can quickly do the rest of the nuts. With a piece of 1/2 square keystock set in your vice you can put your pan over it and beat those concave bolt holes down flat again...and using the above clamping sandwich strips with flanged nuts will keep you from ever having to do it again! I also have a bitchen $300+ breakaway torque screwdriver (that someone else paid for) I can use to tighten the bolts exactly where they need to be... I prefer Loctite 598 as sealant alone, or as gasket dressing. If you have a gasket you really need the sandwich strips and a flat flange. With Loctite 598 you can lay your proper bead for sealing, snug the nuts to get initial compression, let it set up overnight/24 hours to cure and then retorque to proper number the next day to get some compression on the 'gasket' you just made with the 598. Loctite 598 and Permatex Ultra Black are EXACTLY the same substance, BOTH made by Henkel and simply marketed in different markets with different brands. This comes straight from Henkel Technical Support Engineering. We use it on our oil sumps which are immersed in hot oil 24/7/365 and rarely are expected to be opened for inspection before 5 years of continuous running. It is more tolerant of surface debris / contamination than prior RTV's. Our testing indicated between metal blocks, a bead will have at least a 40X espansion rate in close fitting pieces...meaning a 2mm bead will spread to 80mm wide EASILY when compressed. A 2mm bead is ALL you need if you have less than 1mm distortion. By putting a 2mm bead on the pan and then tightening to metal-to-metal, the bead will EASILY compress to cover the entire mounting flange area, even in the warped areas...effectively permanently sealing the gaps. *** Even when I don't replace the bolts with studs... those two diagonal studs and flange nuts are installed it helps hold the pan coming off as well! They're like 1" long....I cap them with a piece of vacuum tubing after install so the exposed threads are not gummed up with road grime. If you get realllllly fancy and have longer studs that stick out at least 1/4" beyond the face of the flange nut...those vinyl vacuum caps that are available in Red, Blue, Yellow, Black make for a bitchen detail all around the pan surface as a nice contrast... You know.... "While you're in there..."