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Well, winter was quiet! Spent most of the winter skiing, rather than being cold in the shop, but spring has sprung and we have some exciting progress on the car. Since the car is in good mechanical shape, the big to-do's have been cosmetic. Mainly the air dam! It's such a cobbled together thing that I knew I had to make some improvements. To that end, I bought a 3d printer, whipped out my iphone and got to designing some new end areas. I'm keeping the same spirit of the airdam as before, but symmetrical sides (just flipped this piece and printed again) meant that I can be confident in the tolerances that I'm working with on both sides of the car! Pretty impressed how well this lined up fresh off the printer, and from a medium quality iphone photogrammetry scan of the front end. I opted to use the PLA as a core for the fiberglass layup, we'll see how that does long term. People have issues with PLA as a finished surface as the "glass transition" temperature is pretty low, and normal temps for sunny car parts will result in significant softening. I think inside 5 layers of fiberglass it should be just fine. (Glassed, sanded down and filler primer. It's easily the nicest part of the airdam at this point!) There is a pretty good gap between the bottom of the air dam and the splitter, so I printed up another whole piece that I will use to pull a direct positive part from. I don't want this to be super heavy duty, so I'm not going to encase the PLA core. (printed and glued) This piece had some scaling issues, even though I modeled it from the same references as the airdam pieces. Oh well! Final bit was that I really needed to make the car all one color again, and install some of the fun stuff I had made up before the winter. I had aspirations of painting the car, but when that plan met with the reality of budget, I opted to go back and vinyl wrap the front end again. The hood might get a re-do, but otherwise I'm rather happy with how it all turned out! Hoping to have the car mostly back together this weekend, and then aiming for an auto-x event at the end of June to shake out the cobwebs from car and driver!

Thanks, calZ. I switched my throttle cable at the TB from the very top position to the bottom one. I also tried the middle one (not much success there). The car feels normal again.

Only part I could find was the capacitor. When I removed them from the 2 clocks I had, the one from the non working clock tested good, and the one from the slow clock tested bad. I replaced them both. Now the slow clock works and holds time, but the non working one must have another issue because it still doesn't move.

05-07-2025. My custom ordered fender stickers came in. I covered them (and the rear stickers) with some PPF clear to make them permanent.

Thanks!! It's been a bit, refinding the stoke has been a challenge, but I'm getting excited again. Life changes (wife going back to school) means the race budget is way reduced this year, but I got my eye on a couple days.

Wow...she's looking great, Ben! Nice rebuild after that off at GTA a while back.

Thanks. Glad to see someone running something that wide. Car looks fun, good luck at your next event.

315/30r18 rear and 295/30r18 front. I think the rear wing is 72" wide with a 13" chord length. I wanted the wing to match the rear track width which is quite a bit wider than factory. Got the airdam painted and mounted this weekend, and finalized the splitter wire mounting positions. I have to fiberglass up the blending piece, but that should be pretty speedy once I get material. A couple photos of the mounting/airdam fixed on: I have a radiator to hood duct/extractor that i'll throw glass up while I'm at it in the next few days.

The actual ZCD L brackets themselves were not consistently bent. The widest gap I measured was almost 1/4" which I suppose can be filled in with weld, but is absolutely unacceptable for my standards. There's definitely a spectrum of skill and expectations when it comes to metalwork. My buddy had floors and rockers put into his 60s mustang by a mobile welder...sure it had new metal but the fit and welding was terrible. I took the time and massaged the metal to 0 gaps all around on both rails before welding. I shouldn't be surprised at this point tbh, even the door hinge kit from ZCD was garbage. I ended up having custom bushings machined after zinc coating for perfect door actuation. With that said I probably won't learn my lesson and will order more stuff from them to fix in the future 😂.

05-02-2025. I got my shift knob with button. I got it from Speed Dawg Shift Knobs. Top notch shop. Shipped it very fast, well packaged and I even got a military discount. If you need a shift knob check this guy out! I got it installed, and all wired in to my Snow Performance Stage 1 Water/Methanol injection kit. I also got my Vacuum Block from Amazon, and got it all hooked up, so the vacuum needed for my Boost Gauge and J&S Safeguard is more professional. I also added a pic where you can see my passenger well is all cleaned up. Good day!

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Drove around yesterday with heat shield on . The tune is pretty rough and and sometimes the car wanted to die from starvation -scary . I used timing to lower idle after reading about a trick to deal with hit idle . Might have to call on Richard to help me remotely . Lots of rain right now so driving time is scarce .

my acc belt runs like this, that blue part gets very hard flappery sound, diesel runs like it runs, my alternator is pretty light but it doesnt have clutch wheel. i could add another pulley to oil pump mount

What size tires will you be running? What rpm are you expecting to set as redline? Also, your calculator has the speed profiles for the option 3 and option 4 swapped. You will have a higher top speed with the 3.3 gear.

Can't be tired yet! It finally got to the point where we were building a car. We decided early on to go with vintage Datsun race suspension mods,parts and brakes from Design Products (dpracing.com), the super trick front crossmember from Apex Engineered and camber plates and Evolved steering knuckles from TechnoToyTuning (T3). As it turned out, when we got the rear struts installed the car was squatted in the rear. After taking some measurements, the struts were shortened to 240 length! After a night of tossing and turning, I did some research and discovered that T3 has a problem solver for that in the form of a riser block that works with their adjustable camber setup and it was problem solved!!

Blocked them. Works like normal now. Thanks

Thanks again this thread and the pics were money, picked up a little rubber stopper from Ace Hardware and worked like a charm. Saw the little orange pieces on the carpet floor, thanks again. Perfect script.

Then it was off to paint. The boys did an amazing job! Worthy of a $50 bottle of tequila and a celebration!

oil lines and where to put massive porsche 928 oil filter next on the list

hello, Some tiny small steps right now. I have started with the frame rails and have made the part that will go inside the car. 1.5mm steel that goes front to rear. New ones under the car are being made with a higher profile than standard, 45mm in front and 25 in the rear. Christian

Little update on this project. I daily drove this car to school all fall until I eventually blew the stock headgasket. I just needed to adjust the megasquirt pots to calibrate the ecu. Car sat most of the winter due to school work and 2 head bolts breaking when doing headgasket. Was easier to just pick up another n42 block, with good rings, hopefully no more oil burn. Looking forward to throwing in 440cc supra injectors with my 2mm kameari head gasket to turn the boost up. Hoping to just continue to clean up the bay this summer, and to start doing bodywork and rewrapping parts of the car.

Ford 8.8 Super Duty 8.8 Differential Installation- First of all, I want to apologize for taking so long to finish this posting. I had to paint my house and had some other people's projects to help them with. The first thing that I had to do was to find a method of jacking the front end of my 240z high enough to use high jack stands. Because of the low ground clearance of my Rocket Bunny Front Air Dam and Low Vehicle Height, even my 3 1/2" Low Clearance Floor Jack would not fit. I solve this problem by purchasing a pair of 3 1/2" Car Ramps. They cost about $36 on Amazon. raises vehicle by 3" These ramps were about 28" long and would work on low riding vehicles. Short steep ramps would not work. They are very light weight and can be sacked together (taking a small storage space). jacking cross member The Ramps worked perfectly as my floor jack fit under the Front Cross Member easily. With the Car raised on Four Jack Stands about 6" off the ground, disassembly of the rear suspension can now take place. I designed my exhaust system for easy accessiblty. It consists of Three Sections-One -Front Motor Exhaust Pipes, 2-Middle Section with "X" Pipe after the transmission and Third- Rear 90 degree Exhaust Pipes with Two Turbo Mufflers. The pipes were also, connected together with V Clamps for fast disassembly. Next, the Two Rear Control Arms must be removed from the Strut Spindles. First, the Threaded Cross Shaft must be removed. The Tapered Shaft retaining Pins must be removed. With the Locking Nut removed, the Pins are removed by tapping them cafefully upwards. now, the Threaded Cross Shafts must be taken out. Because of Corrosion and lack of Lubrication, these shafts usually are difficult to remove. You can not hammer them out as both ends has threaded ends and hammering will damage the threads. ZDEPOT sells the Removal Tool but I made mine own. The tool consists of an Internal Threaded Rod which screws to the Threaded End of the Cross Shaft. The Larger External Tube( 1"OD" acts like a spacer of the Threaded Rod. A Large Nut on the opposite side of end of the Threaded Rod operates like a Forcing Screw to pull the Cross Shaft outward. I welded a proper size Lug Nut to the other end of the Threaded Rod. See Posted Pics for Size and Dimensions of this tool. Metric Lug Nut welded to one end of the Threaded Rod 15/16" Nut( pulling nut) placed on the opposite end of the Threaded Rod Removal Tool installed on Cross Shaft Rear Suspension removed With the Rear Suspension and Differential Removed, install the Differential Support Bracket on the two Long 17mm Mounting Bolts for Trial Fit. This test fit checks if any Fuel and Brake Lies and Hand Brake Cable are in the way. In my case, the Fuel Lines had to be extended and Hand Brake Cable modified. Differential Mounting Bracket Trial Fit- Next-Trial Fitting Differential Cage and Mounts Next-Differential Installation