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Hi all! Restoring a rusted 240z series 1, SCCA vintage race car. Car last raced in 02'. Currently rebuilding to group EP spec's. I figured id start a new thread summarize my plans and progress. Il just add progress photo's to this thread. Thanks for reading! Engine: L24 Block – OEM bore, stroke. OEM materials. Not modified Head – N42 core Modifications: polished bowls. Valve seat de-shrouded. Minor reliefs cut around seats, but within ID spec of gasket. Ch

I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ

All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.

You know we have all been there when you get three similar responses to a problem within a few hours 😂 when I was young and dumb(er), I once lowered my car onto a breaker bar to loosen the tranny fill hole. I don’t have a dedicated full hole on my r180 cover (from a Subaru STI) so I drain completely then fill with a specific volume from the axle shaft hole. The spec is easy to find with a quick search online, or from any type of service manual.

Hello everyone on the Forum. New member in the LA area. Just a acquired a ran when parked 1973 Lime, 240 Z. Its was in decent shape for the price. Hope to get it running soon. I have almost no info on the V8 other than what I can find on the internet. Block is from a 1976 C60 truck or bus. Heads look like 882 casting 76cc smog heads. Edlebrock performer intake and Holley 4bbl carb. 4L80 transmission, BM Quick Silver shifter. has no other upgrades that i can tell so far. Hope to learn a lot from the forum.

I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.

Teacher perspective, and as someone satisfied with my Apex products and intend to buy more: The best lesson I ever learned from my university director was "it's not mistakes that bother me, it's complacency." Ohm, from every interaction and experience I've had with him and others, has made a consistent effort to improve products and delivery. If you're an early customer, I think it's a bit unfair to be as critical as some have been if the problem has already been mutually resolved.

Thanks for the welcome, and I appreciate the insight. There is a 280zx in the junkyard nearby, maybe I'll have to do some salvaging. Although I had a 70 240Z in high school and I loved the feel of that four speed, so I'll have to do some soul searching. As requested, here are a few more goodies. The first picture also shows an uninstalled BRE style (I think, but unknown brand) lip spoiler. My most coveted prize is of course, an FM radio from a later model, which will absolutely be installed. Enjoy

I know this is an old post but I ordered from Mike at Whitehead based on the feedback here. I ordered a rebuilt R200 3.7 with a Quaife LSD in September 2020. After 6 months of getting the run around and still no diff, I asked for a refund. Now 5 weeks later and no refund. I know lots of things can happen and COVID has thrown a wrench into many things. I think I've been more than patient and I'm still hoping Mike will take care of this but for now, I wanted to leave some feedback.

I think this is about the time I sold the grey "parts" car. It was running so nicely that I couldn't bear to strip it for the interior. I did screw around with a funky idea for a gated shifter on the Z. When I was younger, I used to play this arcade game at GameWorks that was a Ferrarri challenge game and it had a gated shifter and it was so cool, I thought I could get it to work on the Z. Turns out the S130 gearbox does not have enough shaft movement at any "reasonable" height for it to have distinct gates. This 3rd prototype did work, but only until I bolted it rigidly to the tu

I think you'll find that all those warnings you heard about not having any bottom end are way overblown. It will be fine, you're going to love it.

As values continue to climb I often wonder how the aftermarket Porsche community compares. My car is slowly starting to become nice, but I was talking to a friend recently about how Datsun guys are unfortunately really cheap. Often not willing to pay for quality, but still happy to complain. I wonder if the general demographic affects the quality of customer service some parts places are able to provide. Skillard has been consistently great, and other than issues explained in other threads, I've had a great experience with Apex. It's a double edged sword I think. As prices go up, maybe cust

They do. But I've seen this interpreted different from time to time. My car has a separate metal box over the cell and the lines where they are in the cabin. I got busted at a hillclimb (GCR rules) that I didn't have metal over my fuel lines (braided hose didn't count) so I did what any normal person would in the middle of nowhere. I built a cover using aluminum foil and riveted it to the floor here and there. Technically it was a metal cover. Rules were changed after that to be more specific.

almost done tuning the transmission (shift/throttle timing)... IMG_0405.MOV

Sorry about the JTR and JCI info. I was some time ago and I got the info a bit confused. I figured I was too old the try laying on my back and juggling a transmission on my chest and knees, so a mechanic friend did it at his workshop. Absolutely no dramas. He removed the transmission first and then the bell-housing. Had to replace the flywheel, clutch and pressure plates, and slave cylinder as a complete package. He had trouble bleeding the system so I have the car back home and will fit a new M/C when one arrives.

I got the sizing on my master cylinders directly from Tilton. Their tech support is great...they offer assistance without talking down to you or trying to sell you big $$$$$ items you don't need. Anyway, they took weight (anticipated at the time) of my car, weight distribution, front/rear rotor sizes, caliper piston areas, and other variables to recommend master cylinder size. I told them I wanted to lean toward relatively light pedal pressure, and I followed the sizing they recommended. Once it was all working though, because of my pedal position I found I was getting just a bi

I think this is the first time I went through your entire thread. And I have to say you have done it right. I am more into road race now, but if I were building an FP car today I would follow a similar path. Personally I believe lowering both sprung and unsprung weight is the key. I really like your brake and wheel setup. The only disadvantage you have is not using an early 240 shell to start with. But you have almost compensated for that. I am familiar with the John Thomas car and really his only advantage is the weight, a strong Rebello engine, and most of all, his extraterrestrial driving.