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My custom made 3d printed aero hood latches are mounted.

Picked this up from local hot rod shop for my 240z SBC 350 project about 13 years ago. Circuits: Electric fan relay Fuel pump Radio and amplifier Power windows Summit Racing/parts store etc probably have this fuse box.

When are you hoping to get this car on track? I'm hoping to do an SCCA track day at Sebring in February. It would be nice to see you guys there.

More work on the 4200 today. cleaned up the rest of the block and head, and then pulled the oil pan and cam cover. NO SLUDGE. very clean inside. I got the outside of the cam cover clean enough to at least get started on the modifications I will do to it (add an alloy oil fill to the back, add a breather port, shave off 2 original ports, cut off unnecessary brackets, weld up the original oil fill hole and probably lower it a bit as it is very tall . To fit under a Z car hood it has to be chopped about an inch......although a small rectangular hole in the hood with the polished cover sticking up can be made to look really cool. Yeah I had an adaptor snap on me, the crank bolt is SO tight, I will probably need heat and PB blaster and smack it a few times to shock the treads to get it off. I need to clean behind it and it needs to be cleaned up and painted.......I wonder if the heat will ruin it? Before I called it a day, my AR5 transmission arrived.....in need of a rebuild, the pilot shaft has wiggle room. pics follow:

Yes, still working on then, just have not posted anything. Bought some expensive components that take time to recover from. A blank PAMS head, that I then designed and has DelWest make me titanium intake valves, Inconel mnemonic stainless steel exhaust valves, also MoldStar 90 seats and guides. Had it assembled, and ports cleaned up for some nice flow numbers. Also purchased a Nismo 6 Speed Trans that was also strengthened and modified by HPI in Japan. I take some progress pics soon.

So after doing a valve adjustment my ITBS did sync up better . I guess I will have to keep an eye on that. I took out most of the injector trims and my afrs between the banks paired up better -especially at light cruise . I also worked out linkage issues I was having. You get no instructions with this kit and there was adjustments that I could have done better like the main rod-the only rod-to bellcrank. I didnt have it pulling the linkage in a straight line. Also found the linkage on the side of the ITB loose . This caused the linkage to rub against the body of the ITB. I got all this sorted right before ZCON . It was 4.5 hours to Nashville on smooth highway. 80 mph is where she likes to cruise . AFR's were around 15 on flat ground. No issues on the round trip. Got some great compliments from Peter Brock on my airbox . Cold idle is still 650rpm and about 800rpm when hot . AFRs at idle are normally around 13.1 Now to move on to IAC . I gave up on it right before I left .

Car is getting some tail tonight!

The two areas "1" are a great place to attach tow hooks.

The dyno chart for that was from my old 331 stroker: Stock Roller Block (4.030" bore) Eagle 3.25" stroker crank and rods Mahle 4.030 Pistons Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.571" lift) AFR 185 heads 1.75 Long Tube headers 30# injectors I scattered that engine at Daytona My new engine is a 347. Dart SHP Block (4.125 bore) Scat 3.25" stroke forged crank and H-Beam rods Custom Hydraulic roller cam (.625" lift) AFR 185 heads Long Tube headers 42# injectors I use Megasquirt MSPNP 2 to tune both engines.

With a good 5th gear, overdrive is wonderful... I have the mythical R200 with 3.36 rear gear. The transmission is a T5 with the G-Force Shafts and gears 1 through 4. I run short tires Avon 23 /10.5-15 on all four corners. When I first installed the G-Force gears I was only auto crossing the car, and really only used 2nd gear. When I started doing track days (Daytona and Sebring), I quickly discovered that 5th gear was horrible. With the stock gears, 5th wasn't optimal but wasn't too terrible (3.35, 1.94, 1.44, 1.0, .67). When I changed to the G-Force Gears, 1st gear was improved but 5th gear sucked (2.95, 1.95, 1.33, 1.0, .58) First time at Daytona, I was redlining 4th gear by the time I came off the banking onto the front and rear straights, and the .58 5th gear would drop my rpms and torque too much to be useful. The .58 5th gear was horrible, so I pulled the transmission and took it to Astro Performance in Tavares, Fl and had them install the A5 5th gear (0.81). The difference was night and day. Overdrive went from a total buzz kill to being my Warp Drive... If you get a transmission with a good 5th gear (TKX with .81 5th), then you'll be fine. This is what the gear spread (speed versus rpm) looks like: Here is what a full acceleration run looks like if you assume 0.25 second shifts: The above uses numbers from my old dyno chart and the following inputs: Dyno graph from my old engine (my new engine makes more power and torque):

Thanks, will do. I’m hoping to get a good amount done this weekend, and my apex rear suspension kit should be coming in soon.

Wow, that's like something out of a Rube Goldberg cartoon! Great progress you're making....keep the updates coming!! 👍

I like the external slave cylinder. You may have to clearance the driveshaft tunnel a bit, and it will create another obstacle to routing headers. I'm using a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing. Works great and doesn't take up space in the driveshaft tunnel. The downside is that if it leaks then you have to remove the transmission to fix it...

Got a few goodies today, first I found a cool bracket that can allow me to use a hydraulic set up for the clutch, it’ll let me get rid of the weird mechanical set up someone rigged up. Second was an impulse buy, while getting the turn signal/light switch and relay they had this emergency power stop button and solenoid.

I am beginning the build of a GM Vortec 4200, also known as the ATLAS 4.2 straight six. it is all aluminum, DOHC, VVT on exhaust cam, makes 291 hp and 270 tq stock. Peak torque at 1800 RPM and hold it to 5000 RPM. A lot of these are being built on YouTube, etc., and I decided to build one. I will also be using the Aisan GM AR5 5 speed transmission which came in the 4 cyl ATLAS 2WD Chevy Colorado pickups. bolts right up and I will get a custom flywheel to work.

My turbo header from Forever Fabrication for my 4200 build came in today. Top notch craftsmanship as expected:

Ok, well back from the EFI conversion posts, back to just regular fun stuff posts. I decided to try custom length spark plug wires again. I ordered a set of the wire "cranes" from Lonely Driver Company and then ordered a set of 8.5 wires form Amazon and installed them today. As the pics show, it made more of a difference than I thought.

Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. It is B+ only. No ground. It connects to the + terminal of the battery. Accessaries draw fused power from the fuse box. Each accessary is grounded to the chassis.

Luigi: I used a $70 "universal" power window kit that can be obtained on Amazon or eBay. A current Amazon vendor is JDMSPEED. This is quite similar to the SPAL that was marketed some years ago. What I found in my research was that several marketers offer the almost, if not, identical units on these shopping sites. As the units are all made in China - perhaps by the same manufacturer - this kind of makes sense. It's like every corner convenience store selling M&Ms. Earlier this year I started collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update and expand a thread he created in 2006 on the Classic Zcar Club website www.classiczcars.com). I decided to alter the wiring so that just two switches are used and the controls are mounted on the sides of the center console. The article has kind of stalled out as I went on to do other things on my car but I swear I'll get it done and posted there before year's end. In the meanwhile, here's a photo of the drive unit installed in the left door of my car. The drive unit is on the lower left and the "engagement gear" is on the right. It has plenty of power to work the window mechanism but, my goodness, you absolutely must have the window track alignment perfect or it binds up.

Hopefully you are converting to all SAE / AN brake fittings. It's a real pain to have a mix of metric and SAE. I routed my brake lines inside the cabin to get the brake lines away from heat. I'm running a Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and use a proportioning valve installed on the drive shaft tunnel.

I found it just by digging around online. Wilwood makes the assembly, allows me to run two different sized master cylinders for front and back, and on top of that the horizontal bolt close to the firewall allows me to adjust brake bias between the cylinders, lots of adjustability. It comes with this cable so I can adjust the brake bias from inside the car. Yes, all new brake lines. I bought pre-bent hard lines and some distribution blocks. Once I get the rear suspension off, I’ll replace the lines, then figure out how to attach the cylinders, probably get some flexible stainless steel lines for that.

I've used these....

That is an interesting master cylinder set-up. I haven't seen that before. I assume that you will be running all new brake lines.

Cut out the indented areas & fabricate new sheetmetal to fill the holes. Personally I like the smooth look. 😎

It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing.

It can be confusing when talking about technical areas vs car model areas, but we do have the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum here: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/16-ignition-and-electrical/. Yes, I think it's fairly common to add new circuits/etc to these old cars. I've done it to the last couple of my cars to simplify/improve the electrical capabilities over the stock harness. I've always used off-the-shelf breakers, relays, fuse panels, switches; but there are a bunch of pre-built kits that are available through numerous vendors. I like to use marine hardware if I can find it; as it's typically extra beefy and durable. Good luck with it; and please be sure to post your results once completed!!

Got the front coilovers and the dual master cylinder assembly on today. Still too hot out for working on the car here, I can’t wait until it cools down. A few challenges with each, but got it on right. Was hoping to start tearing down the rear, but I’ll give that a go next weekend.

Always liked the early Zs especially a 240z a this guy came up for sale recently - seeing it in person tomorrow so I'll have a better idea then - apparently being sold because the guy is retiring and getting rid of all his toys Pros: 1. Bodywork done - "12k, 1 year spent at body shop to cut out all rust and install new metal" 2. Modifications: Small block chev. 600 lift Roller cam, Gold roller rockers,202 aluminum heads, MSD ignition&box, H.P electric full pump, 150 shot NOS system (Not used). Purge lighting built 700R Trans&Convertor, B.M. Shifter, I.R.S. 3.9 Gears Custom built half shafts (Good for 600HP), New weather stripping/INT/Roll Bar. 3. Looks on pictures that it's done right - looks like a very clean install Con: 1. Sat for 10 years since 2015, 3000km after the build (Drove the F-type jag he got instead). Apparently just started couple of times a year to keep things "lubed". Recommends all fluids changed, brakes bled etc before driving - so I won't get to test drive it and make sure everything's working properly before I buy it. Looking for recommendations on what to look out for, and key things to prep to get it ready to get back on the road.

I have had a lot of problems with the throttle cable and related parts. a late night job came up with an extremely basic solution for cable hookup at the carb....I made a bracket and got a brass cable stop at Auto Zone, and the gas pedal bottom edge hitting the floor keeping full range from happening were the culprits. FIXED.

Datsun 240Z RB30 oil pan For my 1972 240Z, I wanted to create a reliable big horsepower streetcar capable of 800-1000 HP. To meet those goals I choose RIPS Racing whom has the proven track record in creating reliable high HP street cars, exactly what I was wanting. One of the issues I faced was that Robbie of RIPS had lost his template for a rear high-capacity oil pan for a 240Z swap. There does not seem to be any good oil pans for a 240Z RB swap. If you are building a big horsepower RB engine to be swapped into a 240Z PLEASE BE CAREFUL AS I PERSONALLY DO NOT THINK THERE ARE ANY GOOD PANS AVAILABLE AND YOU WILL NEED TO GO HAVE A CUSTOM OIL PAN MADE! Here is my sad experience thus far... After spending weeks online reviewing so many oil pans only to find that all of them were not adequate based on RIPS observations. I found this one JHK pan from U.P. Garage that appeared that it might work so I took a chance after they told me it would work, https://upgarageusa.com/collections/jhk-oil-pans/products/jhk-rear-sump-rb-cast-oil-pan When I received it, I shipped it straight to RIPS as I did not want to undo their professional packing. I did not open the box, as I just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Unfortunately when it arrived to New Zealand it was damaged. I told Eric, & Doug @ UP Garage via email, The oil pan you shipped to me was damaged. I did not open the box, as just brought it to DHL and they put their label over where your label was. I sent it to Robbie at RIPS Racing in New Zealand. Additionally, Rob told me that this design would not work as there is insufficient clearance between the oil tube and also between the baffle and engine. I have attached pictures and an MP4 where Robbie shows the box damaged before fully opening it. This was an unfortunate expensive mistake as it cost me over $700 to ship it only to find out it was damaged and would not have been a good pan for my application. When I get my fully built engine towards the later part of this year Robbie will send your pan and I can return it. I would hope that I get a refund. Now we need to source a better pan that has more oil capacity, and a better design to provide the oil flow needed for my engine. On a phone call UP Garage said it was my fault for not opening the box before I shipped it to New Zealand. I told them I examined the box it was not damaged in anyway, so I reshipped it without opening it in order to not disturb their packaging, but they still denied any liability. I then sent them the following email, Eric, & Doug, I sent the pics you texted me to Robbie, and I am glad he explained the issues technically with the oil pan. Doug was telling me that your pan would work fine on a more stock build but reading Robbie’s great explanation, I doubt that would be the case on my 2 WD RB block. Regardless, the oil pan was damaged and if you feel that it can be resold to someone as Doug stated, I will send it to you after I receive my complete engine with the damaged oil pan from RIPS. You are specializing in a local RB market would be better suited to find a new home for this oil pan than me here in Northern CA. Doug claimed it should be easy to sell it as the damage was cosmetic, then it would make sense that afterward you resell the oil pan, you could reimburse me for my purchase or at least most of that cost. U.P. Garage sent this email to RIPS, We are, and have been, huge fans of your hard work to bring HP to the RB world!! So glad that the JHK pan has found it's way to your examination table. Here are the measurements we have taken on the RB25(rear drive block) screen configuration. Keep up the great work!! Feel free to call us: +1 253 565 9823 Doug/Erik Fatty Fat Cat www.upgarageusa.com From: RIPS Racing The pictures you have sent are not from a 2wd block, they are from a AWD block, possibly a RB26 with the longer AWD pickup. The measurements you have are with the pickup you have on your block and quite different to the measurements I have with the pickup and oil pan I have received. As stated, with the pickup bolted on (without a gasket) the pan will not go down all the way to the block, the pickup screen is holding the sump up a little bit meaning the screen is already touching the bottom of the sump before its even bolted down flat. There should be about 10mm clearance when the sump is bolted down meaning as it is, bolting the sump down will put load on the pickup and be squashing the screen and the tube inside the screen will be pretty much hard against the floor of the sump meaning a massive restriction in oil flow. RIPS also sent them this email, Hi, Just to add to this, with the oil pickup installed on the block (even without a gasket) the sump would not sit flat on the block, the oil pickup was ever so slightly holding it up so the screen on the pickup was hard against the bottom of the oil pan. This means if the sump was bolted up tight the pickup tube itself (inside the screen) would also be basically hard up against the bottom of the sump meaning major restriction is oil flow. There should be around 12-15mm clearance between the end of the oil pickup tube and usually around 5mm clearance between the screen and the bottom of the oil pan. As it was supplied there is no way it could have worked and would have surely led to an engine failure.

Coilovers showed up today 🤩. Got them assembled and will get the fronts on the car tomorrow.

Looks good and sounds good. Wouldn’t buy without a test drive though, he’ll start it though right? Hopefully just fluids and new tires and you should be good to go. Good luck!

The tranny/rear is a trade off. You really dont want to shift to 5th at 120+mph. The wind resistance will drop you 10+ mph and if you are not in power band you will not accelerate much after that. Not good for Daytona. Rule of thumb is the more peaky your engine is, the closer tranny ratios you need to keep it in power band. The other rule is select gearing to be well into power band or just over in top gear, top speed. Depending on engine you may need a different rear/and or tire ratio to run Daytona, it is different than other tracks. Many club racers run the final 1000-2000 ft at redline, but that can be risky.

I have a set of extractor wrenches that come in handy for things like this. Here's a link https://olsatools.com/products/7pc-offset-extractor-wrench-set?variant=41307851161651&country=US&currency=USD. Cary

I used his list plus a angled bearing plate from jegs or summit for like 10 bucks. I couldn't use the location he used. Still a work in progress so Ill post when i get it all welded up. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124248-steering-shaft-relocation/

I do want to give a big thumbs up and shout out to "artishard" here on the HybridZ, I kept searching to find anyone whom had one of RIPS old custom oil pans and it turns out that "artishard" here on the HybridZ has that very pan and was kind enough to share several pictures. Those pictures were amazing as it looks like they are enough for Robbie at RIPS Racing to make a custom oil pan for my application! This is why HybridZ is so great to learn from others mistakes and share information so valuable in our pursuit of performance!

The Follow Up Road Test went fine. There was no CV Axle Grease leak and the Diffferential performed well. The Differential Gear Ratio was now 3:55 compared to the old r200 3:70 so my shift points were now more spread out. I think that 3:55 gear ratio for city driving by providing less gear shifting. Highway driving was better by running at less RPMs too. The Blue Angels-the Navy Stunt F16 planes were coming to participate in an Air Show at Kaneohe Marine Base. There also had a Car Show along with the Two Day Air Show. Although, the show was on the other side of my island , I decided to enter my 240z in the Car Show. The trip would take about one Hour but most of it was on freeway roads. The Freeway would take me over the mountain to the other side of my island. On the downward leg of the trip, I noticed that a lot of pedal effort was necessary to slow down, My conclusion was that a Bigger Brake Power booster would be needed. The OEM Brake Booster was 7" booster so the next size booster would be 1978 280z booster which is 8 !/2". The local auto places did not have a 280Z booster available so I ordered one from Z Depot. The Air Show was terrific but unfortunately, it create a large Traffic problem. However, The Good News is that I won the TOP TEN Trophy for Aloha Mother Fest 2025 -CAR Show that was combined with the Blue Angel Show. Next- Upgrading the 7" OEM Booster with the 78280z 8 1/2"Brake Booster Next-Upgrading the Brake Power Booster with a 78 280Z Unit

Hi mate, Low profile alloy air cleaner top with a carbon fibre air cleaner with the collection point in front of the radiator. Flexible rubber joiner between the alloy top hat and the carbon fibre air cleaner. The alloy piece is only about 2.5 inches high. Just another idea for cold air induction. Regards David.

What you're missing is that that the Holley lights have two +12v receptacles and one ground receptacle. The stock wiring harness supplies one constant +12v feed and two switched ground feeds. By using a simple wiring adapter you could make it work with either high or low beams, but the stock switch wouldn't work both High and Low beams properly because all it can do is switch ground on and off. If you didn't want to use his method of rewiring the light switch, you'd have to use two relays to supply 12v High and 12v Low to the LED bulbs, and the common terminal would go directly to Ground. Does that make sense?

Good evening gents I got my first inspection cleared with some minor things to fix so now i have five years to finish the build (he wanted to see me at the end of August ) . With that done i was able to pain all the weld, start interior work and mount the Datsun back up again, sooooo, it's done just waiting for my half shafts. The half shafts is actually the only thing that keeps me from a test run. Brakes, clutch are bled, emergency brake mounted, it's pretty much only interior work that has to be done Cheers Christian

Here is a quick way to check the polarity and the high low switch. Use a voltmeter and ground the negative side of the meter to the car ground. Take the positive lead and touch it to the center of the high low switch. You should have positive +12V with the headlight switch turned on. The low beam wire (Red/Yellow) is at the top and the high beam is (Red/White) at the bottom. The positive +12v will toggle between the two when the turn signal switch is toggled. I enclosed the switch and labeled the different terminals. If that is correct check the polarity at the headlight plug. You should have one ground and +12V at low beam and +12v at high beam. One other thought is check the fuse block and make sure the two headlight fuses are good. You will have one for the left and on for the right light. Hope it helps.

MinneZota, I am not sure what you wires you are showing in the picture, so it hard for me to determine what was cut. From the instructions above you do not need to cut any wires or connectors for the swap. You must make the ATO fuse jumper wire and the small jumper wire pictured in the instruction above. By using the two jumper wires you made this allows you to plug them in the existing harness and swap the main red and black wires pictured. This changes the polarity for the LED headlights to work correctly. You can message me I can walk you through it.

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

I had some time in the laser today so i decided to make new mounts for my seats😀. More on this later as they have no priority and are" a bit " of neerd warning. As the engine is 6.2 litre why not make it a 620Z😎

I use a Infiniti M30 ECU with nistune.

On the jeep one I had to yes, fairly easy though. I think I pulled out the jeep one and replaced it with the datsun one... and put the c clip back in.

1979 to 1986 cj7 jeep master is 13/16 Or something like that and is $35... bolts right in. Worth a shot. Supposed to be 7/8