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Got the sensor figured out. It is idling around 130-140 F. Should be OK. I have to post a video. Sorry but I think this thing sounds bad ass. I have an insert in the exhaust so I dont need earplugs.

Update: after speaking to Cortex and getting some spindle dimensions from them for CAD mockup, looks like I’ll be using their Radial X spindles. Very exciting stuff, I am a bit weary about using aluminum spindles but the car is a track car and last weighed at ~600# over each front wheel so I think I’ll be alright. Thanks! Excited to share my progress with you guys. I’d eventually like to make my work/design open source and see what more talented suspension engineers can do with it. If I didn’t just buy one of these yesterday I’d offer to trade you a complete kit for one of them KN20 heads XD. A bummer indeed, just another bump in the road! Funny you mention Stock Car blade-swaybars. It’s basically all I’ve been looking at for switching over to that design. Plus the parts are pretty cheap & standardized. Thanks everyone.

This is awesome. We haven't had a good engineering project on here in a while, so this is a good to see.

Day 1 of installation. almost 12 hour day and got a lot knocked out. Pics below:

Hi HybridZ, Some of you have already seen my Apex Engineered Track Attack information/discussion thread here, I've decided after reviewing the design of the Apex Engineered front suspension kit, the best solution moving forward is to design my own. In this thread I will be documenting my progress and hopefully gaining knowledge on suspension design from you guys (or from what's left, f**k Facebook groups). To start... Why don't you just use the AE kit? It was $4000, you're just gonna waste $4000??? (Yes) Not enough shock travel, that's pretty much it. Once I received the shocks from Viking I realized immediately that 3.20" of stroke was not going to be enough and thus set out on a fool's errand to find alternative solutions. Viking shocks, from what I've found, have the most shock travel per the physical dimensions of the shock that I've seen so far. They're compact and the adjustment knob is well-designed to take the least amount of space with respect to the rest of the shock body. Very nice, but I will ultimately use either JRi's Mod series DA shocks or Penske's 7800/8300 series DA shocks as now, getting a shock long enough to reach between the strut tower and the LCA is more important. Design (pictured with 17" diameter wheel) The most prominent feature of my SLA design is the UCA pickup being located within the engine bay. The shock tower must be cut and a box structure is welded to the frame rail. This design is based on both the Maier Mod 2 design and Cortex Racing SLA kit seen here: Maier SLA Design Cortex SLA Design The reason I moved the chassis pickup for the UCA inboard was to extend the length of the control arm which should allow for a more compliant spring than the offerings from Apex. Mike Maier inferred the reason for the obscenely high rates was to keep the super short UCA from camming over and ruining the geometry. Fine for a super stiff autocross car but for a road-course car with kerbs, burms, and undulations in the track surface? Unacceptable. With this shock, I'll be looking at around 7-8" of total shock stroke travel. The remaining part of the design lies with the spindle (not shown) and the boxed-structure (also not shown). The boxed-structure was fairly straightforward to design - shout out to @Ben280 for sending me frame rail measurements while my car's been at the body shop. The boxed structure welds to the chassis frame rail located in the engine bay which the cross-shafts then mount to. The spindle is obviously not straight forward, fortunately for me there's plenty of resources on the LocostUSA forums for me to look at as well as Chassis Design and Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken and Milliken. Once the completed version 1 of the design is done, I’ll begin FEA with a safety factor of 1.15-2.00 at some lateral load to make sure everything should work without buckling. Until then, I have two separate designs, one utilizing Mustang II style cross-shaft mounting structures and one using Maier’s. The main difference being the orientation of the cross-shaft mounting bolts to the boxed-structure with the Mustang II’s bolts facing down, and Maier’s facing sideways. With the bolts facing sideways relative to the longitudinal axis of the chassis, side load is transmitted into the boxed structure through the bolts on their axial axis as opposed to their shear axis. Bolts do not like shear, however the Mustang II design is insanely popular so I suppose I could be overthinking this. Maier Cross Shaft Mounting Design Cortex/Mustang II Cross Shaft Mounting Design Methodology Starting with a 3D scan of the 240z that I re-topologized into ~10000 quads, I modeled an accurate-enough solid body of the fender well and shock tower. From there, I (roughly) modeled the Apex Engineered LCA (will probably try to use the T3 ones I currently have installed on the car as they are boxed structures), the Penske 8300 coilover at ride height, and upper control arm. You may have noticed the bottom of the shock clipping into the LCA, please ignore that, you didn't see that. In regards to swaybars, I will try to get the OEM sway bar design to work with my suspension, however due to the bottom of the shock being mounted on the LCA roughly where the swaybar links, this may be difficult to engineer. I could copy Maier’s LCA design, using a bent-tubular lower arm picture here: Moving forward, it might be easier to design my own boxed structure and try to mount a blade-style sway bar instead. Procurement While there's going to be a lot of custom laser cut metal from SendCutSend, I wanted to keep this kit as OTS as possible. I am not particularly interested in spending buku-bucks on one-off billet parts nor am I keen on dipping my feet into scaled automotive aftermarket product design & manufacturing. That being said, the spindles will likely need to be entirely custom if I can't find an alternative OTS. If I can find an upright on the market that fits my criteria I will definitely go for that, I’m trying to avoid using a Mustang 2 spindle as its shorter than I’d like it to be and completely wastes my steering knuckles and 370z spindles supplied from Apex Engineered (though steering knuckles and spindles are relatively cheap). Next Steps The complete version 1 of this design will be complete soon. Once I've finished my spindle and boxed structures the real work starts, articulating the design through all of its axes of rotation and movement will reveal conditions of binding and the dynamic geometries of the suspension. I started work on this project about a week or two after I placed my order for Apex Engineered SLA kit and have been doing it in my free time which is quite difficult to come by. God willing I shall endure.

I used his list plus a angled bearing plate from jegs or summit for like 10 bucks. I couldn't use the location he used. Still a work in progress so Ill post when i get it all welded up. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124248-steering-shaft-relocation/

I do want to give a big thumbs up and shout out to "artishard" here on the HybridZ, I kept searching to find anyone whom had one of RIPS old custom oil pans and it turns out that "artishard" here on the HybridZ has that very pan and was kind enough to share several pictures. Those pictures were amazing as it looks like they are enough for Robbie at RIPS Racing to make a custom oil pan for my application! This is why HybridZ is so great to learn from others mistakes and share information so valuable in our pursuit of performance!

I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gas. The previous owner mentioned that that was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention that). I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR. I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil with a 0,5 ohm one.

The Follow Up Road Test went fine. There was no CV Axle Grease leak and the Diffferential performed well. The Differential Gear Ratio was now 3:55 compared to the old r200 3:70 so my shift points were now more spread out. I think that 3:55 gear ratio for city driving by providing less gear shifting. Highway driving was better by running at less RPMs too. The Blue Angels-the Navy Stunt F16 planes were coming to participate in an Air Show at Kaneohe Marine Base. There also had a Car Show along with the Two Day Air Show. Although, the show was on the other side of my island , I decided to enter my 240z in the Car Show. The trip would take about one Hour but most of it was on freeway roads. The Freeway would take me over the mountain to the other side of my island. On the downward leg of the trip, I noticed that a lot of pedal effort was necessary to slow down, My conclusion was that a Bigger Brake Power booster would be needed. The OEM Brake Booster was 7" booster so the next size booster would be 1978 280z booster which is 8 !/2". The local auto places did not have a 280Z booster available so I ordered one from Z Depot. The Good News is that I won the TOP TEN Trophy for Aloha Mother Fest 2025 at this show. Next- Upgrading the 7" OEM Booster with the 78280z 8 1/2"Brake Booster Next-Upgrading the Brake Power Booster with a 78 280Z Unit

Adam Sylvester at Datsun Rescue or Jenny at Junkyard Jenny's.

@jhm. I appreciate that, Ive been putting out feelers on a few Z car forums trying to locate one, I know its sort of an obscure and delicate piece but its worth a shot anyway

For the track attack upper control arm plate the carriage bolts are a must because of their plate design, it completely covers the bolts, so no way to tighten. But some of the others are iffy. The two I broke, didn’t need to be carriage bolts, but it would have tight if they weren’t, and the tension rod bracket was probably needed for clearance to the bushing. Their brackets could have been designed to use regular bolts if they made them a little bigger, but that’s what they went with. Over all I’m pretty happy with it and how’s it’s coming together, but there are still some improvements they could make for easier installation.

Had a busy weekend working on my girlfriends car (brakes, oil, alternator, water pump and timing belts) but yesterday I had some time left to work on the Z. The car was running rich so I ordered a cheap AFR gauge to measure the air-fuel ratio of the car. I installed the gauge in the engine bay for now with the power wires just clamped to the battery as I can’t drive the car till I get my inspection done. I read some threads about the EFI Z’s running rich or running rough in general so I cleaned the contacts on all the electrical plugs and readjusted the throttle position sensor. The contacts of the AFM and the cold start valve where actually pretty corroded but cleaned up nicely. For good measure I also decided to change the spark plugs and do a compression test. O boy was I glad I did that. The spark plug in the number 1 cylinder turned out to be a different one without a manufacturer name. It was also heavily cracked and the spark plug wire wasn’t even attached! (am I glad I ordered new once). The compression was pretty consistent from what I could tell but my battery and probably also the alternator are dying, only to be caped alive by my battery charger. The engine cracks very slow with the sparkplugs in (even only one) and when dialing back the idle the engine can’t keep a consistent rpm. It even died after a while. I the end I just jumped the battery with my girlfriends car witch helped a lot. After the cleaning the car also ran much better with an AFR of 11.2 and after warming up for a bit it changed to about 13. When revving the car to about 4000rpm the AFR changed to about 15. I’m not very familiar with AFR ratios but 13 at idle (after warmup) seems pretty good to me and hopefully lets me pass inspection. But for that I still need to wait for some backorder parts from Z-Services.

Wow, cool stuff. That's a real bummer about the AE kit, considering the investment; but I guess this approach gives you the freedom to go wild and do whatever you want! I like your idea of an adjustable blade-style sway bar...this has been on my to-do list for a couple years, and just haven't gotten around to it. You may want to consider the NASCAR-style mounting, above the engine. Makes the adjustment linkages and hardware a lot easier to engineer and fabricate. Good luck with it!! 👍👍

Threads like this make me realize just how ignorant I am when it comes to suspension geometry. I'll stick to castings Great work and welcome back.

To add bushings to the front mount (they did add that) To properly bush the diff mount (not done) To change the brace so it fits in a 240z without smashing the spare tire(not done) Then a number of things about suspension optimisation such as what was posted in this thread.

Not dumb at all, though I definitely prefer rubber bushings over poly & solid in a street car even if its tracked 1-3 times/year.

Small update, I've moved to a new thread on designing my own front SLA suspension. Regarding the OTS kit from AE, its nice, the tubular front cross member is perhaps the best of its kind on the market. Part of me wishes they used slot-nuts instead of their current configuration but its not a huge deal. Interesting, sorry to hear. I find their rear suspension pretty well designed, the rocker ratio is 1:1 which is not great but nothing you can't fix by making your own. Though for $4000, I feel it should've been disclosed at the very least. Their new packaging system for hardware is great, though their shipping packaging is quite bad. Their customer support offered to replace some parts that were damaged in shipping, need to follow up to check what the ETA on those RMA'd part is. Regards to you giving them feedback, not surprising. I've also tried starting a technical discussion with them that they didn't seem super interested in, understandable they're running a business and are more concerned with keeping the doors open than answering questions from a guy that already paid them lol. These guys are developing kits for a bunch of Datsun/NIssan chassis, and now the E36 chassis so I doubt they have a lot of time for guys like us.

Just curious, what made you go with a draw through setup instead of port injection? That saying I love the clean installation!

just finished +6000km euro trip, whew it was hot down there. Would have been sweaty in datsun. found this type of momo steering wheels on sale in germany but they didnt ship to finland. ordered leather and suede versions to my friend in berlin and pick them up later.

Came with four almost brand new tires and the original wheels on also pretty good tires. The original wheels good use a repaint tho.

Actually, it appears you can still buy kits! https://www.dkhardware.com/asp-a-16-105-auto-keying-kit-product-4838272.html?srsltid=AfmBOopXhi66Ub5objUsVLlPIOtGXJCK2Tf8aZSSusaSLkTvPvIAvVgg https://www.locksco.com/buy/product/New-keying-kit-for-Datsun/CLENC8ae41abfed476c50acd2d7916a7fb627 If neither of those are in stock or don't ship, Star Road sells a kit with blank tumblers and a file. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/key-cylinder-re-key-kit-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-make-matching-key-on-your-own

Probably just fine. The polyurethane products were developed as a performance improvement. More precise steering, less wheel movement. The aftermarket will hype and sell whatever they can.

Found this on Grassroots Motorsport web page. Seems Legit Garage is adapting some interesting modern trannys to other platforms. Think $2k for a fully sequential used 8sp box, any HP needs you have. The ZF-8HP from BMWs, Dodge and others can be fully reprogrammed for sequential operation and even add a dbw pedal to simulate a clutch launch. Might be a good project for someone that could adapt this to an L6 easily....Derek? Transmission Solutions | "Seems Legit" Garage https://share.google/HyOxohcae82yQu0Th

This has already been done a few years ago. Reach out to Jakub at Datsun Europe, he's running a zf8hp50 behind his sick turbo L and has a few adaptor plates left.

This thread is ancient so I'm just posting in case others come along in search of a solution. If you install the MSD 8920 as indicated by the OP and the tach only reads 200 rpm, here is what fixed it for me. At issue, reverse the wires to the tach. Connect B/W wire to red going to the 8920 and connect G/W to 12V switched. After this my tach was happy.

NO!!! Actually it seems well suited to a billet solution and I can't compete with billet solutions. The only reason I can play in this arena with my equipment is leveraging my pattern making abilities.

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum and today I'll be picking up my very first Z. It's a silver 1977 280z coupe with a 5 speed manual gearbox. Any recommendations of what I should be looking for? I bought the car site unseen at an auction. Yeah I know, not the greatest idea but I got a good deal on the car. I do know from a dealer I saw the car at a while back that the frame rails might have some rust spots but the seller listed the car as "free from rust and structural damage". Luckily the seller won't get his money until we bother agree the car is as advertised so I can still low-ball the shit out of hem. (The seller was bragging to the dealer how he would make a massive payday trough the auctions the dealer told me. But guess what, he lost money on it) My plans for the car are to just get it road worthy for now and then upgrading it over time. I was thinking about rear disk brakes, ITB's with new engine management and some carbon fiber body parts like the hood, fender flares, spoiler and aero bumper. After the cosmetic upgrades I'll be painting the car Nissan Midnight Blue as I just love the color. And yes the car is loosely inspired by the anime Wangan Midnight I saw when I was a kid. Call me a week but it was my first interaction with the S30 chassis and I loved them ever since.

Just got home with the car and finally took it a good run around the block as the registration is suspended at the moment. The seller told me it didn't pass inspection as the car was running rich. I did notice there was a wideband sensor and a crank angle sensor installed but not connected to anything. Maybe it was used to tune the engine? The car isn't perfect but I did get it for a pretty good price. The bodywork isn't all straight, I suspect it had some damage to the rear at some point in time. The hood latch cable has popped out of place so the hood won't open anymore (why did I close it all the way). The passenger door isn't lined up properly, it only closes with force and the bottom rear part of the door sticks out a bit. And the car sweats some oil (pretty much everywhere). But all in all I'm happy at the moment as it has new wheels and tires (got the original wheels with almost new tires with the car) and it drives pretty good even though it's running rich. Clutch and brakes work very good and even all the electrical works. I did notice some nice goodies too. The car has some kind of aftermarket suspension I think and a brand new wooden steering wheel with NRG adapter. It is indeed a 5 speed and has the R200 rear end. I'll look some more into the forum and will probably start a build series documenting the car as I have no documentation what so ever.

Yes I have both. And bleeding the clutch is as simple as opening the bleed screw, let a few drips out, and tighten. The thing that takes longest now is removing that giant shifter and the 3 shift rods. And adjusting shift throws when reinstalling. 3 bolts hold shifter and 2 rod ends per shift rod. I can't find a better way to speed it up. AND I cranked the car Saturday and the clutch is close but still not fully released. So another round is coming.

Looking good. Seems like that's always some of the most rewarding parts of any resto....getting all those hard-to-access areas cleaned up, rust repaired, straightened/strengthened/reinforced, and freshly painted. 👍

All painted. Going to do another coat of semigloss for the engine bay, but frame/fenders are ready for suspension 😁 I’m hoping to start next weekend

I think the only downside, other than size, is the 180 pounds these weigh, from my research. DCGs are very heavy and have a deep oil pan that limits ground clearance. For a high HP car where the weight isn't a problem, I think that they could be a good solution. The MaxxECU is a nice bit of kit. I got to see one being put on a friend's car and it had tons of IO for the cost.

I am posting this to celebrate my triumph! After full assembly of engine and tranny I could not get the clutch to release. Quartermaster 7.25 v-drive attached to L6 flywheel from TTV Racing. Quatermaster 710 series TO bearing. Chevy clutch disks to mate with 4sp Jericho. QM Button clutches require precise gap from fingers to TO bearing of .120-.150 so I removed tranny multiple times and reset the gap with shims. Everytime I measured gap I got a different measurement. The clutch slipped a little with pedal in but required a breaker bar to rotate driveshaft. Remove tranny, reset gap, reinstall, bleed clutch, check release. After maybe 8 times I stopped and thought about it. Then read directions for the 10th time. Suddenly it stuck out, make sure clutch disk does not interfere with flywheel bolts. I've seen this before. Years ago I ran a similar set up with the head ground down on OEM flywheel bolts. This time I am using ARP flywheel bolts for a RB26. They are 12pt bolt heads already kind of thin, so I didnt consider they could interfere. Well I was wrong. So I ground maybe 0.020" off the head and reinstalled. In the pic you can see marks where the clutch rivet went across the bolts and 3 bolts I have already ground down. On the positive side, I am very efficient R&R the tranny now. Maybe 90min total. And it pops into the pilot bearing like a glove.

08-07-2025. DYNO morning. Found out a couple of things. 7 psi in 3rd gear WOT at 5500 RPM, 9 psi in 4th gear WOT 5500 RPM. She is RICH....rich to the point of fuel popping, 10.0 to 1, A/F rich, and didn't want to go past 5500 RPM (strange since on the road she will but nevermind). So, there is probably 40 horsepower left in her in the DYNO guys mind. We made 4 runs, and in 4th gear without using any Water/Methanol injection, it pulled 196.8 hp at the rear wheel, at 5500 RPM and at 18% drive train loss that is 232 hp at the crank@5500 RPM. Torque was 268.3 at the rear wheel, 316.59 at the crank@ 5500 RPM. Boost was 9 psi at 5500 when he had to let out because it was so rich. We did a run in 3rd gear WITH water/Methanol and it pulled 226.7 hp at 5500 RPM at the rear wheel, so 267 HP at the crank@5500 RPM and 260 torque, which is 306.8 TQ@5500 RPM, boost was 7 psi. So, as I thought when building it, the stroker and the stock cam made it into a torque monster. well over 300 ft lbs. torque, 232-267 horsepower.....but it is PIG RICH. So, power is limited by being rich. I have dyno charts, but the RPM range at the bottom is all wrong. we weren't able to get to 6000 RPM because of the rich condition. He said it was basically 10 to 1 A/F on the runs, which is WOT, so the main jet is just too big. I can step it down one. As expected, the carb is the limiting factor. I will post the dyno sheets, but as I said the RPM range at the bottom is wrong. he let off at 5500, I wanted 6000 RPM but he said it just wouldn't do it., when he let off the throttle the unburned fuel was popping and banging. Pics follow (video at the end). V1.MOV

Got on the wire wheel and went to town on the engine bay and front fender wells, prepping for paint. Need to wash it down and go over it one more time. Test painted a few spots. Also got the fender braces on, but not fully welded. Started getting a hole in the body panel, so decided to tac it and fully welded it later after some more practice, probably start practicing tig, need some gas first.

I found this You Tube Video that shows the use of Laser Technology to strip down a Fairlady in Japan. Although the video doe not have English Subtitles, the Laser Machines utilized provided a different method of removing paint, rust, corrosion,etc. The major drawback is it is too labor intensive. Using Total Chemical Vehicle Dip (previously shown) would be much faster and still be able to remove internal corrosion (in boxed areas). But in certain case such as surface corrosion, this method would work well. I found the video interesting as it provide a new option in corrosion and paint removal in the restoration process.

Slowly making progress Fender revised and partially welded Turn signal mounted

My first prototype of a printed taillight surround and final version. I printed in 3 pieces then laid fiberglass over the back to stiffen them and bond together in 1 piece.

A simple solution for door slamming problem? I finally finished my 8.8 Super Duty 8.8 Differential Conversion so I had time to handle all those small detail work. During my restoration work, I used Precision Weather Stripping to my worn OEM ones. But the Precision Weather Stripping always seemed too stiff for its job. So anyway, I gave them about 4 months but still had to slam the door to seat the weather stripping. It never got better so I know some members used late model KIA weather stripping from Amazon and good results. So I tried the Kia weather stripping. It was a lot softer but still had to slam the door. I decided to remove the Door Latch and study its operation. After removing it, I cleaned it and lubricated it with White Grease. Everthing seemed tested fine when it was out of the car. But after installation, the problem was still there. The Door Latch seemed like it still needed a little more inward movement to function properly. So with the Door Latch installed, I watched the Locking Mechanism operation. As the Door Glass was not installed yet, you have a good view of the Locking operation. this is when I noticed that one of the Latch Mounting Phillips Screws( 6mm x 1.0) was hitting the Linkage. This Screw is 4MM too long. The Easy Solution was to cut off about 4MM of the threaded end of the screw. Pic of the Long Phillips Screw-Inner Bottom Mounting Latch one. ". , Pic of "Corrected Phillips Screw" I really don't know when the Phillips Screw was mistakenly replaced with a Longer One. Owning the 240Z for 54 years, I am sure I removed the Door Latch at least 4 times. Anyway, if you are having Door Slamming Problems, check the LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS. It was a Simple Solution for me, maybe for you, too.

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

Even if 100 people commited to purchase, its still tiny small numbers vs an OEM production. Its got to be done out of passion and at least not to lose money. This is why this is such a huge acomplisment for someone like Derek, We are fortunate the passion runs deep. I cant imagine the hours of "un-billed" time

He's saying although we are launching a DOHC head in 2024 we readily admit it will be pale in comparison the mighty KN20 from Datsunworks. At least that's what I'm hearing.

My74 260Z Scarab. Had it since 2000. Bored and stroked to 393, still using the Rajay turbo but converted to Sniper blow thru from the QJet draw thru and added Meth Injection, swapped the T10 for a T56.

And on to steering. All of my OEM rack and pinions on the shelf had a dead spot and I thought this would be a good area to upgrade. I chose a Coleman Racing square rack in a ratio just slightly quicker than stock. But to use a circle track rack, I would need to widen the tie rod mounts to get the correct length, which should be equal to the control arm mounts. I search around the internet and found an adapter bracket design that I decided to copy. I designed a welded assembly made from waterjet cut mild steel that had the correct length and the slotted adjustment. Most rack manufacturers will tell you not to do this, but they like to make custom length racks also. I like the design because it will make eliminating bump steer very easy. As you can see, I had to do some surgery on the cross member to get access to the rack spline.

Thank you guys. Since I finished this body restauration, I started my new job in a body shop. This project brought me toch a New level. The door mirror is nog vibrating since I untighten the screw.

Here are some updated pic of my 77 280Z.

Here is a few pics of the 1977 280Z that I started on in Sept. 1994 Z28 Camaro donor car with 74,000 miles. LT1/4L60e transmission. Swapped out the R180 for R200. Keeping all stock gages and Datsun shifter.Suspension upgrades coming soon.

Hers my 385 sbc, mounted old school.

Here is the 355 sbc with twin 67mm, FAST system on E85.47232:DSCF0046.JPG]