Brad-ManQ45

Simple talk here folks. He's talkingabout one or two cylinders that don't have the same compression as the others. THey probably fire, but individually removing a spark plug cable on either one of these will not affect idle RPM as much as the higher compression cylinders. To check to see if it is rings, you simply add some oil in the cylinder that is low and run the compression test again. If the compression rises to within 10% of the other cylinders you have a ring problem in that cylinder. If the compression does not increase then it is a valve problem. Yes you do want to have he throttle plate open fully when cranking, and preferably have ALL spark plugs out of their respective cylinders - why put more of a load on the battery and starter?

Ya'll think too small... I want them ALL, along with a much modified Lotus Europa...

I don't think anyone running more than 15 PSI boost (or anything more than their stock compression ratio in boost) will agree with you... Air volume is more than doubled at that amount of boost.

I'd seriously think about switching to MegaSquirt and running a toothed wheel setup. I am trying to decide whether I want to base my '75 on an LT1 (reverse cooling flow is good for turbo's), or going with an LSx based engine. Either way it will be MS - that is what I'm using on my '83ZXT....

Really good to know WizardBlack. Thanks!

Nice #'s Gabe! How 'bout scanning the dyno printout and posting it?

Yea, the only difference is the bolt pattern for the wastegate housing...

I think hughdogz already has one on his ZX...

What I have had since '94 is a water-cooled center w/70 A/R S3 trim TO4B compressor section with a clipped stock turbine with the stock Nissan turbine housing. I want to use the ATP Ultimate Internal Wastegate setup, but of course needed a Ford Turbine housing for it. So I spot a T3 turbo off a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe on EBay, and I look at the pics and say to myself "that looks like a TO4E Compressor Section..." After searching all over for a good price on a new turbine housing (real Garrett or Turbonetics - no Asian knock offs please) and seeing prices around $249, I figured WTF and put a bid down and won it. What came to the door today is in fact a water-cooled center section, 50 A/R TO4E 54 Trim turbo, with the stock .63 A/R Ford turbine housing, wastegate/downpipe. I had time before class today to take off the compressor housing and use my digital calipers to measure the Inducer and Exducer diameters to verify the trim. If I didn't know that the regular wastegate would have boost control problems, I'd almost be inclined to use the Ford downpipe - it's MUCH better than the stock one I have been using with my 3" exhaust. Add the oil-cooled center section and stock T3 compressor section and turbine wheel shaft from my original turbo, said turbine/shaft may not be serviceable and I can put together a turbo to sell, provided that this is not a big shaft (and since it isn't Turbonetics it probably isn't - the shafts looked the same between my present working turbo and the just arrived one). Tomorrow I'll see about taking off the turbine housing and seeing what kind of turbine it has (although I haven't seen much on the 'net for gauging trim by measurements, I can at least compare it to the stock turbine that is still on the original turbo. This will be going back into the '83ZXT that I am currently painting the engine compartment on after replacing half the firewall and half an inner fender panel and battery tray on. Then it will be some body work and paint, put the engine along with a 4L60E tranny (to replace the T5) back into the car, add intercooler and MSIIExtra and about 18 lbs of boost. Looking at compressor maps, the 54 is much better than the S3 I already have and maybe better than the 57 for efficiency. I'm really hoping that the is a stage 3 or 5 turbine in there. With the torque multiplication from the high stall torque converter I have, I can deal with a bit less boost down low if I can pick up more power further up... We'll see...

Actually, Hugh MacInnes book Turbocharging states that the combined polar moment of inertia of two smaller turbines is less that one bigger turbine capable of flowing the same amount of air... The mass of the two may be more, but most of that mass is much closer to the center, whereas with the bigger turbine, there is a lot more mass further away, and when you are talking increases as distance squared, you pick up a bunch more PMI.

Don't know anyone in WA, but BRAAP is in OR - and he knows his SH*T.....

You should disconnect the fuel injector for that cylinder for any and all driving/testing, engine running or you are wasting gas and possibly diluting your oil. Next, check the compression after putting in a couple teaspoons of engine oil in the spark plug hole. If compresision goes up, then your rings are shot in that cylinder. Normally the other cylinders would be close. You have not posted readings for all cyloinders, which you should do, both before and after with the oil treatment in the spark plug hole. If the compression does NOT go up, then you have valve problems - considerably cheaper to resolve.

Or you could use racingmini_mtl's P&H injector boards to get everything you can out of the injectors. (faster response time for bigg injectors (assuming turbo app and large injectors - more granularity)...

I have the "Flame" HF hood, and I always weld with a halogen light shining on the work. This allows me to see adequately w/o flashes on a setting a little darker than the lowest setting. I also have the least expensive HF helmet for people that ocme over and want to watch and no-one has gotten flashed with it either. I will say that for TIG, you would want a better helmet tho...

Chartreuse Green - a 1972 color - the color code is 123. PPG's code is 44729 check it out here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1972-datsun-pg01.jpg

Great Gabe! Looking forward to seeing the dyno results! Wondering what I need for my 2.8...

Do a search on Zero Rust before you buy the POR-15... The one thing about POR I don't like, other than the more than occasional problem of topcoating, is that it is so hard it cracks, which will let moisture in. Zero rust is less expensive, soesn't crack and is easy to reapply and topcoat. There have been a number of converts from POR to ZR that I have corresponded with that made enough good arguments for me to decide on the ZR route - and money was not a concern at all....

You may need some 1/4" spacers.

Not in order: DIY is GREAT! Good support and well built product - can't go wrong. You didn't specify what car you were putting this in - if it is already an FI car, then you probably don't need the relay stuff. The Pallnet fuel rail you will need with the Supra injectors is the 11mm, not the 14mm (14mm is for domestic injectors which are usually high impedance). The Supra injectors are low impedance, and I would recommend getting the P&H boards from racingmini_mtl on the MSExtra forum - I already have four of them (two projects). If you want 300 HP, then you will HAVE to go turbo, and the T04E 50 trim with a T3 turbine section will be fine for you.

THey say it is for any exhaust housig that has the 5 bolt Ford style exhaust housing. Supposedly it can handle the GT series turbos, but that may only be at high boost - not low boost - too much to bypass...

OOPS! - put the link in...

I think THIS would be your best bet for an internal wastegate - I plan on using it, and Hughdogz is already using it...http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-023&Category_Code=WGT1

How about a Mazda MX3?

Those 500's were pretty sweet! I had a '75 Yamaha RD350, until a '75 Town Car ran a red light.....only 40 days and 4700 miles on it...

+10 at least...may need to roll wheelwell lips.