Brad-ManQ45

Like driving in snow - sure you can start out easy with 4WD, but when it comes to actually THINKING about turning and stopping it's an entirely different story. I grew up up north and when I moved to Atlanta, had to quit driving when it snowed - too many dumb-butts thought that since they could get going they could drive in snow. It only took 1 rear ending to correct my belief that I would be ok to drive in snow down here - and the guy that did it tried to blame me! (I was stopped at a red light)

If that's all the horsepower you're gonna run, then I'd get a 700R4 overdrive. That will keep the revs low on the highway. (Or a 4L60E is you have a computer for it)

Good tp know Clifton - was that with the same size turbine housing (.58) or the next size?

Thanks for the post John!

Summit carries several sandwich adapters, the cheapest by Perma-Cool for $32, but they have the Earl's also. This is the same adapter that Ford V8's use.

All injectors were low impedance, so your injectors are fine. I believe it was the '81 that had the external resistor pack in a separate box- the later model years had the resistors in the CPU box, so you're cool there if you are using an '82 or '83 cpu. If you are using the '81 cpu, you will need to make a resistor pack.

Gabe: I have almost come to the same conclusion as far as a GT3076R - but be sure to get the .82 exhaust housing.... The GR3076R looks to be a great match for the L28 engine compared to the GT35R, which seems to be better with a bit more displacement. Since I am talking about what will be my daily driver, I'll give up a little up top for better response down lower - especially with an automatic... I am still considering a TO4E 50 Trim compressor and N series (old terminology) T4 turbine, because I have a manifold with wastegate opening below the turbine inlet and a T4 flange on it...

More importantly, what's it set to during cranking? 10 degrees should work well. Idle would be 20-24 degrees.

Nice number there! I know you have a GT35, but what other mods have you done? A lot of people like to know what people are sucessfully doing - call it sharing information...

Happy B-day Warren!

Love the new paint! Looks great J.

Yo: You might want to check code - in my area, there needs to be a 25% safety factor in current (amp) capability on a circuit. On my MM175 w/ max draw of 19.4, I needed a 30 amp breaker and wiring. They had no broblem with that circuit running an air compressor and the welder...'course I rarely have them both on at the same time....

JTR has an adapter that reduces the rotation ~.66:1, which if used with slightly taller tires is very close when you set your dash for kph...This adapter is for a T-5 tranny.

If you HAVE to shoot someone - make sure they're dead so they can't sue you...

Title says it all: Suspension, Chassis Repair & Stiffening, Brakes & Wheels. Major stickies to scroll past, and the ability to focus on the one area of interest at a time.... 'nuf said?

Good Luck Pete...

I have had VERY positive results in improving idle on a 4 cyl Campry that had just had new plugs and wires. The idle in gear (automatic) was very shaky, after treatment butter smooth. Off idle tip in improved also.

And by the way - turbos want LESS overlap than NA...

I thought those were the 2.6L seals used in the 60 degree V6 in early Capri's...

Yep - the turn signal holes give it away...

If you want to run x amount of boost you are better off with a wastegate with x lb spring in it. This alone won't guarantee that it won't open early - only a ball/spring arrangement will do that. ktm is SO right about your AFR's - way to rich.

Good Job! Have you looked into that "ultimate wastegate" fitment yet???

Try FAYETTEVILLE DIESEL POWER, INC. 3016 DOC BENNETT ROAD P O BOX 64815 FAYETTEVILLE, NC 28306 Tel: (910) 424-4015 Fax: (910) 424-5684

OK - I now officially hate you....JK....

I personally wouldn't mind hearing what John has to say... I have an '83 ZXT that will be my daily driver...