AK-Z

suzuki swift Honda fit (but I would wait to see if an awd version will be available in the states)

Hmmm. then the KA might be an inch or two longer than the SR

I'm starting this thread because I saw some one posting questions and was move to the tool shed and I don't have privileges to post. Also I am currently doing the swap. As far as I can see and from what I have done, the KA swap is pretty much the same as a SR swap. Some issues I've come across: the way the fan belt is setup, if you remove the power steering pump, then the water pump won't work. So you either need: electric water pump move the alternator by either making a PS delete bracket or buy one Keep the PS pump and get a PS rack (My haines 280zx FSM says that the 280zx came with an PS rack and "pitman setup (bad)") If you are going with moving the alternator (what I did, and made my brackets), You are going to have a problem with the water inlet/thermostat housing rubbing against the belt. to get around this, I just bought a KA24"E" thermostat housing. If fits right on and clears that belt. Another issues is the front sump oil pan. Since I am fabbing the front chassis I have the option of moving the cross member/suspension forward about an inch. The problem with "this" is that I will have to cut off the steering rack mount plate and weld a new one to move the forward, or cut and weld a piece of pipe on the steering shaft. I am also going to turbo it, but thats a whole other issue and who ever is interested in it can look up everything at KA-T.org I currently have limited bandwidth right now so I can't post pics right now.

eh~. VW already did a rear engine golf. look for Golf W12. W12 cylinder engine o_O

Yeah, but you only NEED it to pull the engine and put it back in, or somewhere. If you buy an engine stand, you just need to unbolt the trans, then you can cart it around and store it, or work on it whenever. But thats if you intend on working on the engine. If you just need to swap an engine, it should just take a couple hours, unless you doing something custom.

Could be the actual switch itself. 30 year old wear and tear

Plus routing the piping under, rather than over, makes its easier to drop out. Just have to unbolt from the manifold/header and take it off the hangers (If you modified the hangers to the non bolt type)

looks like a elcamino and datsun's red headed step child

Look for lead weights, someone is bound to sell something in bar form. Or just melt some lead weights in a bar form.

I second renting one. Then use the money to buy a engine stand.

How did you remove the tranny mount support?

If anything, you can mod the chassis to fit a caytrem (lotus super 7 replica) or a factory five front suspension.

o_O? I don' recall mine having those hole, when I cut it out

Just remove the paint first. you should see a difference in color between the steel and lead. If you still can't tell, you can just poke around with a screwdriver while warming up the lead a bit.

Mine just slid off. They should just be clipped on.

If its just the pillar cracking, then just clean the paint off the area and go at it with a propane torch and a lead bar. The area is "lead loaded," mean, that they used lead as a filler and as a structural support. You want to add more lead and grate/sand off any excess, just as you would with regular body filler. And I don't suggest cutting off the "gutters" off the roof either. Its lead loaded on the area in question and as well on the upper and lower A pillar. Welding in areas that are lead loaded is a real PITA.

I suspect fake. I don't think any team would wasting a multimillion $ race car into a toy

been talked about on here before. search tweel.

just go to youtube and look at the old datsun commercials My friend kept on calling it Daht-soon. I looked at him like, are you kidding me? even after hearing me pronounce it. "palm to face"

cut a piece of sheet that fits inside the hole and tack weld it in then weld in a different spot so you don't get too much heat in one are and continue to tack until its welded all the way around. then grind, primer, body filler, sand, primer again and paint.

On the subject. How do you remove the interior panel that covers the gas filler, without breaking it?

Try bug and tar remover. Might have to use the whole bottle though

Just be glad that it didn't dent along the edges. That can be a pita to take out.

Eh~. happened to me before. A rubber mallet and a dolly will take right out

The distributor only fits one way. You adjust spark timing by loosening the mounting bolts and rotating it by hand while the engine is running. The plate you messed with is I think part of the vacuum advance assembly.