naviathan

I'd be willing to bet that's your problem. Assembly lube should have been used in the cylinder walls and everywhere there's a friction contact before anything was assembled. Regular oils are too thin.

Nice...Never seen that before.

Did you use assembly lube on the cylinder walls before putting the pistons in?

You don't gap the rings yourself, the gap is dependent on the piston bore in comparison the to ring size. I think what sweetleaf is looking for is, did you get oversized rings that weren't the right size for your bore? Something definetely isn't right. It should turn over fairly easily.

That's pretty cool. Is that braided line actually effective or simply show? Does it strengthen the hose against expansion under pressure?

FS5W71B should be your tranny, unless it's been swapped out by a previous owner for the turbo T5.

That actually falls under the "prove it" catagory. The cops and eBay can't do anything because if they do that makes them legally liable to be sued in court which no one wants. Thanks to so many people winning bullsh!t court cases, like the guy who sued the home owner of the house he broke into and won, no one wants to do anything anymore. A smooth talking lawyer and a by the books judge will let anyone off and end up with the innocent party getting hurt even more.

That is a crock of sh!t... I've never heard of impound fees being that high. I know several towing and impound guys and none of them charge anywhere near that. Typical tow and impound will cost $80 for the tow and $10-20 for the storage fee on a daily basis. Which still doesn't come near that amount.

NO! Do not go there! Far far too many people have had serious problems with showcars-bodyparts. Seach the site for more.

NICE!!!! I like metal..

Depends on the size of the vacuum source. The brakes will need a large port. If nothing else you can always drill, tap and make another vacuum port on there.

That sounds pretty cool. I'd love to see some pics of the 720. And definetely look for a Z/ZX. Great cars and a lot of fun to drive, not matter where you live.

Anyone have some old RB26 pistons they don't have any plans for? I'm working on a stroker theory for the L28 and I need some RB26 pistons to test the theory. Seems they've got the right pin bore and height to fit an L28 without the need for an overbore and still use the LD28 crank and L24 rods. Anyhow, If anyone has some they'd be willing to give up please let me know, thanks!

Well, the pros would only be the costs down the road for you and I can't say what that would be. The cons would be if it can be done, then it'll probably restrict some vital oil passages and water jackets which would limit the oiling ability of the engine and the cooling effectiveness. I think it would be rather risky honestly.

Although it's essentially the same block, I don't think the cylinder walls were cast as large as the L28. I believe this has been discussed before only on the L24 not the L20.

On a side note she's the only person that's ever ridden with me at 115mph in the ZX and not freaked out. We average 80mph on the windy backroads out here and she loves it. Guess that got her going enough to want one.

I've used both. I bought a cheap dual MIG from harbor freight that came with the flux core wire and use it for a while like that. Then I discovered gas and I will never look back. You get better penetration, cleaner pool, cleaner end product and it's much easier to work with.

I don't think it looks bad. Kind of an eye catcher really.

Simple, inexpensive and it works...I like it.

I dunno...Possably. But they almost seem like a perfect fit from the dimensions. I'm going to really have to think about trying this one.

Yes, my wife want my fairlady. It's the only automatic in the family and she can't drive a stick. She's been nagging me to get it going again, btu I don't have the time with the 50 million other things going on.

I was playing with the engine design utility on this site: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ I noticed something interesting. The RB26DETT stock pistons have a short pin height and a dome for better compression, the pin is the same size as the stock L28 pin and so is the bore. Now combine this piston with an L24 rod and the LD28 V07 crank and you get a long stroke, 9.3:1 compression stock bore stroker engine...I've been thinking and I can't come up with any reason why this wouldn't work...Anyone here have any idea? Seems to me like it would be a stronger, easier to build, turbo (with a 2mm HG) worthy stroker. I can't be the first to come up with this idea, why hasn't it been tried yet? Granted the pistons are expensive, but so is the machine work and such for the L31.

Paz, you're backwards, the turbo has the 3.9 and the non turbo has 3.54. They lowered the gearing in the turbo because it took too long to get the turbo to spool with the higher 3.54 rear and it launched harder off the line with the 3.9 giving it more of the high end sports car feel. They lowered the compression ratio to account for the boost so a good jump off the line was almost impossible with 3.54. 280Aden - WASUP!!!!! We'll build that engine right before it goes in, don't worry. The only problem I can see us running into is the drivershaft. The 2+2 is longer and the turbo shaft is different from the standard shaft. Matter of fact I never looked at what the difference was between the T5 shaft and the standard tranny shaft. I'll get all the info before hand, but we'll probably have to either find a turbo 2+2 drive shaft (could be difficult) or just have the one we;ve got modified. Hopefully someone else can chime in and tell me what the difference is between the two other than the tapering on the turbo shaft.

This might sound odd, but check the wiring inside your wheel wells to your front quarter panel turn signals. I had a similar incident in my 77, the wires were hanging loose inside the wheel well and tire wore the insulation off causing a short that made the electrical go screwy.

Offset is actually pretty easy. If you need a 0 offset and the offset the rim has is +40 you'll need a 40mm spacer or 1.5". Spacers are bad juju on wheel bearings and stub axels. Puts more stress on everything then what it's designed for. but I don't have any experience with them on a Z. I'm sure someone else here uses them or has at some point. They may be able to chime in with any pros or cons.