R3VO 3VOM

Should post some pictures if you can to show people exactly what you did. I'm interested in this as well as I have the 4x4 cailpers.

Why do you want to go cross drilled? Dimpled/slotted are the way to go for racing applications (I assume that's what your doing since you're looking into it). Cross drilling the rotors gives them stress points to crack from under hard braking. Unless your tracking your Z, the stock ones should do just fine.

I have a stock RB20 TB which isis 60mm but im not sure if itll work or not.

While the Z432 is indeed rare, that LY crossflow head is rare and awesome! Here was one posted a few years ago for 14K for the head alone. ha http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/76919-ly28-crossflow-l-series-cylinder-head/

Never knew this. But now I do.

I was about to say, good luck trying to get a newer (R33/34) GTR back into the US. They do not like them at all; I've heard stories of people getting tracked down and their skyline shells taken. But as it will be over the age limit they set you should sail right on through. I'd love to have one of the S15's, but those are a few more years out. You should snag up some of the JDM wheels and ship them back to yourself. Make a huge profit over here reselling them!! I've read that the classic JDM wheels can be had over there for a fraction of what they go for here. If you ever wanted to snag me some cool S13 parts..... I would be your best friend for life. haha

I have never heard of this problem happening, but I never ran 17's on my car. Aftermarket wise, a lot of people seem to run the xenon style air dams either from xenon out of urethane or a fiberglass equivalent.

Could you upload a pic so we can see? Where is your intercooler placed? Where does the piping route? How big is the intercooler? I ask because I've seen some RB swaps where the route the return intercooler piping behind the radiator and all the cores because of the same side intake; my concern has always been that the heat passing though the radiator and intercooler will heat up your charge air no? Maybe my thinking is incorrect. But that's why I went with a same side intake and through intercooler. The other concern I'd have is pushing that much air, is your intercooler matched for your performance?

Now I have sectioned struts and 4x4 calipers, so I wouldn't know too much, but wont this mod raise the ride height of the car really high? Because on my 240sx the strut mount is like on the top of the spindle whereas on the megan and such weld on coilover tubes to fit s13 coils into an s30 weld onto the bottom of the s30 hub. I suppose you could argue that the tube gives height so the mounts would be near equal height. But my question is why reinvent the wheel? While I understand your idea for brake options and 5 lug, some of them get pricey (Evo caliper swaps go for near $800 with rotors). While there are options out there more readily for the S13, there are also options out there for the S30. I've seen 5 lug swaps (Z31 hubs I believe?) and there are plenty of brake options out there. We must remember that Z32 brakes on a S13 are way overkill (I think people do those swaps for bragging rights/ they like the look/ both. I have buddies with heavily tracked S13's and they say that Q45 calipers (2 piston floating like the stock S13 caliper only larger pistons) are more than enough with proper pads and rotors; whereas the Z32 is 4 piston) and it weighs more than the z. I think that there are plenty of options out there, even for heavy track driving, for comparable price that fit the stock s30 spindle assembly no problem.

I know people use 280zx wheels as spares. I have a 280zx inflata-spare as my literal spare wheel to save weight. Ha. I tried to fit my steelies from my 240sx but the hub opening was too small; I have alloy wheels on it now but i havent tried to put those on the z.

Ive done the starting fluid technique before. It will seat your tire. But as stated before, im not sure about using it on race tires. Im not sure why they'd be different, but I have never mounted race tires before.

This is funny. I have a 240sx as my daily and I went to pick up tires for my Z over the weekend and broke down on the way back. The tow truck driver that came and towed my sx home had an S14 with an RB26 he took to the drags. He was on like 255 street radials running a little over 900whp and running mid 9's. Setup right they are very potent engines.

Well that's not encouraging. I have a build good for near 400hp and I'll only be running 245's......

Scrapped off freezing rain to no avail; just rained and refroze.

I repaired mine a little over a year ago with spray foam, bondo and bed liner and it has been outside ever since in the weather and nasty stuff (freezing rain here tonight) and I have no cracks yet. I guess I should be expecting some :/

I bought my Z when I was 15 and looking for a first car. My dad had a 280ZX and I always thought it was cool, but I just didn't think it looked "right". So one day when I was wikipedia-ing I stumbled upon the 240ZG and fell in love. I looked for a while and found a silver 280Z. It had rust issues but had been gone through and fitted with all new bushings, r200 diff, tokico suspension. When the guy I bought it from told me he had an RB20, I bought it. I drove it around a bit and the engine just sat in the garage. When I got a 240SX, I parked the Z and pulled the engine. That was 2 years ago; the swap is now in it's final stages and the rust is almost completely fixed. Getting ready to order some BAMF flares for these rare JDM Riverside wheels (look just like the work CR-01) I picked up off craigslist for $350. Picking up tires for them this weekend.

Group buy size it looks like.

Just a random thought (I assume they aren't big enough and are expensive): Do the IMSA style flares fit?

Mark240z, Now those are cool. You can rest assured your the only one with those!! Haha

Depends on the RB. With the 20 you dont need any aftermarket mounts. You can use the stockers

I'd say head to the L6 section of the forum. There are numerous turbo builds there. I'm certain you're not the first to ask about building one.

Either way you need to know what you're getting into before you do it (parts, steps involved) because blowing an ECU would not be fun.

It may only require 4 wires but if you want everything to work (gauges ect) its a little more involved. And when someones been under the dash before you messing around makes it even harder.

Me personally, I would say go the route that 78zstyle and dexter72 said to go. Just turbo your N/A or swap in a turbo motor. They are dirt cheap and are a direct swap (meaning they were made for your car) and they can make some good power if you pair all the right stuff together. I have an RB20 swap in a '76 and it has taught me so much. Definitely definitely do your research before deciding. Unless you are good at wiring or have someone to do it for you I wouldn't recommend it. Each swap, unless you pay for the harness to be made (like me, because I'm lazy) is a lot of wire tracing and a lot of time. It can be done, but it will take a lot of staring at wiring diagrams to figure out where all the wires need to go. But again, this is all my opinion.

There's a member on here in Dubai that can get you one for $600 to $800 minus importation he says. Not too bad.